Still the neatest way to get power into a tank bag or pannier

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To make the hole, I use a butane fuelled soldering iron with a pointed tip. The heat melts and cauterises the fabric, preventing fraying.

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To get the same socket into a single skinned pannier or top box, you’ll need either a suitably sized (11/16 inch) single drill bit or a stepped drill bit.
 
Thank you.

The trick, if there is one, is to take your time working out the best position for the socket, having a mind that it needs a power lead to come into it. Once the hole is burnt, there is no going back.

Also, have a look at the bag’s construction, as sometimes you might need to make a bit of a compromise to miss a seam or something. I had exactly that challenge when I did a bag conversion for Spangle (RIP), whose bag had some metal stripping in its carcass to aid rigidity.

This version of the Powerlet socket is a lot easier than the old variety. The new version has one big nut (30mm) to tighten. The old version had four independent bolts and nuts, which were a bit of a swine to line up, particularly if the bag was lined.

The only thing I haven’t done is to use the socket through a plastic pannier wall or top box. I might give it a go one day. Logically, it should be no different to mounting the socket onto an aluminium pannier’s single skin wall, made easier as I have the right size drill bit.
 
Very impressed with that, going to order on tonight.

Cheers
 
When you do it, be sure to get the block of wood and the metal ring as tight as possible to either side of the bag. The bag material is pretty tough, even when being burnt / melted with a very hot soldering iron.

I had thought about getting a piece of metal tube of the right diameter, to heat up with a blow lamp, to cut a neat hole. Using it a bit like a branding iron.
 
Would a wad punch and a big hammer do the job?
iu
 
Thanks for the suggestion.

Maybe, is perhaps the answer.

Having done several bags, the possible problems might be:

a. To find a punch of the correct diameter.

b. The risk of the cut fibres fraying. That’s maybe not too much.

c. The challenge of getting and then supporting the bag (along with the block beneath the bag, onto which the punch will strike) at the right angle in order to get a good whack on the punch. Depending on where the owner wants to put the socket onto the bag, it can sometimes be a bit of a fiddle to line the bag up. My method, using the socket’s metal washer * as a template, a block of wood and clamps is sometimes a bit fiddly but, once set up, it does work. With the punch, I think you would need something like a fairly robust cobbler’s last (dad used to have one but I have no idea what happened to it) to put inside the bag. Then maybe a third hand to hold the lot in place, before you whack.

I have a variety of the simple ratchet clamps, which have come in handy. Once clamped, they are very efficient at holding things in place. Depending on where the socket needs to go, the larger bags can be quite deep (requiring longer armed clamps) and a bit of a fiddle if the socket needs to be on a curved portion of the bag. When the 30mm nut is tightened, the soft plastic of the socket does distort a bit, giving a good seal to the curve. But a nice flat part of the bag is best and easiest, obviously.



* I’ll be stuffed using the soldering iron method, should they ever make the washer plastic. I’d have to get a metal template made. That’s now got me thinking. If I got one made, I could make the outer area of the template wider, making clamping a bit easier.
 
You could also buy one of the tank bags that has a power inlet already fitted

Give certainly do one
 
Is it a waterproof seal once installed? Or at least water resistant? I may put one in my 1150 system top box if it’s the case.
 
Someone has PM’d me, asking why I don’t just use a power block battery?

Yes, I could and do.

That being said, making the conversion allows me to charge more than one or two items at once, including (if necessary) charging the power block. Using an SAE to USB adaptor or an SAE to DC adaptor, I can then plug in a 4-in-1 multi-head charging cable and away I go. Flexibility, is the name of the game.
 
c. The challenge of getting and then supporting the bag (along with the block beneath the bag, onto which the punch will strike) at the right angle in order to get a good whack on the punch. Depending on where the owner wants to put the socket onto the bag, it can sometimes be a bit of a fiddle to line the bag up. My method, using the socket’s metal washer * as a template, a block of wood and clamps is sometimes a bit fiddly but, once set up, it does work. With the punch, I think you would need something like a fairly robust cobbler’s last (dad used to have one but I have no idea what happened to it) to put inside the bag. Then maybe a third hand to hold the lot in place, before you whack.

Back to this....Wad punches are available on e-bay, 11/16=17mm.

If I was doing it I'd be looking for a length of hard wood (ideally) 2x2 or bigger and long enough to sit on something solid- the ground- and be at a good height to hammer against. You can put the bag over this, in the correct position, press the punch hard against it, holding it in place, whilst you grab the handily placed hammer and give it a good wack.
The end grain of the wood allows the punch to be driven hard in to it, chopping the hole, but not damaging the cutting edge of the punch. (unlike a last or anything steel which will fuck the edge and the punch).
Hard wood is best as it has a tight grain, it could be done with soft wood but the more open grain could allow threads to escape being cut through. A smooth surface helps get a cleaner cut.
Melt the cut edge to stop fraying and fit the gland.
 


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