Rusted Driveshaft

Would it be possible to use an Induction Heater on the Shaft, assuming you cold lay your hands on one of course?

With the swingarm removed, you can get a pry bar and a bloody great hammer on it, better weapons of choice...... A turbotorch or similar will heat it if really needed, but I'd wager that some leverage inside the spline knuckle onto the gearbox output shaft end combined with a good whack will see it undone.
 
With the swingarm removed, you can get a pry bar and a bloody great hammer on it, better weapons of choice...... A turbotorch or similar will heat it if really needed, but I'd wager that some leverage inside the spline knuckle onto the gearbox output shaft end combined with a good whack will see it undone.

Do you not then run the risk of damaging the Internals of the Gear Box by snatching the Shaft toward the Outside of the Casing?
It's not something I've ever tried so I've obviously no idea whether it would do damage or not.....
 
Do you not then run the risk of damaging the Internals of the Gear Box by snatching the Shaft toward the Outside of the Casing?
It's not something I've ever tried so I've obviously no idea whether it would do damage or not.....

No, because you are levering between the driveshaft and gearbox shaft to push the two apart. The whack with the hammer is to pop the snap ring off its recess. If the gearbox wasn't man enough to withstand the shock from a hammer blow on the driveshaft whilst being levered with a pry bar, it would never withstand being used as a light-offroading style bike.
 
No, because you are levering between the driveshaft and gearbox shaft to push the two apart. The whack with the hammer is to pop the snap ring off its recess. If the gearbox wasn't man enough to withstand the shock from a hammer blow on the driveshaft whilst being levered with a pry bar, it would never withstand being used as a light-offroading style bike.

There we are then, another little Pearl to stash in the Box of Tricks for when I need it.....:thumb
 
Did the driveshaft ever get removed, or has the OP thrown the towel in yet ??
 
No towels thrown in this part of Cheshire!
Been busy but returned to the fray this afternoon armed with Waggy’s special tool, thanks.
Once the swingarm was off it was easier to whack the driveshaft the “wrong” way to break the rust stiction then it was relatively straightforward to lever it off over the snap ring thing.
What a relief!
The splines have all had a good beasting from a wire brush, then will be put back together with the correct, super-expensive, Castrol grease and hopefully all will be well for the bike’s owner for many years.
Thanks again for all the advice proffered…
 
Check the driveshaft knuckles for tight spots in the articulation at both ends: The shaft tends to move through a limited range of movement so the wear takes place in the same arc inside the needle roller bearings and the grease inside doesn't get spread evenly. A move through full range will redistribute it.

Any notchiness felt in the shaft means it needs a rebuild, Mikeyboy is the man for this.

If it is badly rusted as most are, a rub down and a rattle can coat of Frosts Chassis Black paint should sort it.
 
Glad you was able to get it sorted, have you had chance to check the swing arm bearings?
Was going to mention something about you using my special tool but it did not seem appropriate!!!
 
Yep, the u/j’s seem to move ok through their full movement.
I took the easy way out, cleaning up the driveshaft and wiping down with ACF50.
The swingarm bearings felt fine, but had a bit more grease packed in.
The whole thing should be a lot better than it was when I finally get round to putting it back together, if I remember where everything goes after all this time!
Thanks again for the words of advice.
 


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