Planning going East via the 'Stans, Pamir Highway, and maybe onto India.

semmyroundel

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Hi all, you Gser's seem to be more adventurous than the Super Tenere mob that I know (not having a GS). However we're all bikers..

I have been planning a trip East, as Covid and political restrictions are hampering things right now, I'm guessing earliest would be 2023.

There's so much to know/plan, it would appear when watching Himalaya Calling on Prime, that even in normal times this part is a headache so I'm starting early.
First things first: I like long distance riding, but all the shows I've seen on t'internet and prime, people have shipped bikes out or back, am I expecting too much to ride there and back?
Secondly, the Caspian sea. I'm not getting on that grotty ferry, or for that matter even risking waiting a week or possibly more for it to arrive. My planned route would be via Astrakhan in Russia, has anyone done this route and how was it?

I saw someone mention one of the \Stans in a recent post here, was it Tajikistan? Apparently the Stan in the post is now a no-go area?
Perhaps someone knows something.
Lastly accommodation. Once out there, what do people do to find accommodation? Surely not booking.com for the 'Stans and further afield?

I have scanned the posts here but have gone cross-eyed looking at so many, so I thought I'd start this post so all the info regarding this is here.

No matter how apparently unrelated it may seem I would still appreciate your input.

One last point I'm using firefox, and whatever link I click on that others have helpfully posted don't seem to work, what am I doing wrong?

TIA
 
Rob Thompson .38degrees cycled it a few years ago, his blog was really good... there was a group of doctors that did a similar trip on scooters a while back sweden to thailand can't recall what that was called...

if you do a search on youtube for folks that have done the trip it might help..?
 
Firstly, I'll never give all info to anyone on a plate. While you're finding answers to your questions it'll give you a wider understanding which you may need.

Situation is always changing in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan so check with their embassies.

Visas! This will take up most of your time in planning.
You may need a duel or more visa for Russia, perhaps even a business visa.
All the visas will need to apply to the times you're there, if you get this wrong it'll be right pain in the arse!
Don't forget you'll need a permit for the Pamir Highway.
You won't be able to apply for the visas too far in advance so get everything in order beforehand. If you get stuck with your visa applications contact David at Stantours, he's very helpful. https://www.stantours.com/ca_mn_vis.html

Visa - General Information

The Cental Asian Visa Jungle starts for most overland travellers on the Russian border or in Iran and continues eastwards along a stony track all the way through to the Great Wall. Travellers should be well-informed and well prepared for this sometimes strenous voyage almost unonown to South-East Asia or Latin America travellers.

Prior to the issuance of their visas most of the Caucasus and Central Asian States require a document called visa support letter or Letter of Invitation (LOI). Against relatively significant payment travel agents in Central Asia can issue the invitation letters. Conditions vary from country to country and depending on what is required.

Most positively Kyrgyzstan has been issuing most of their visas without invitation letters, so has Uzbekistan for certain nationals. Kazakhstan has eased procedures for issuance of visa support. Letters to Iran and Turkmenistan are subject to service bookings with local travel agents. With the exception of Turkmenistan and Tadjikistan the letters (most of which in fact are nothing more than a Telex or email reference number) are valid only for the Consulate indicated in your application for the letter and the dates are more or less fixed around what you indicate.

For some countries it is possible to use transit visa which can usually be obtained without invitation upon presentation of onward visas or flight tickets. Anyhow transit visas are subject to serious routing restrictions and cannot usually be extended.

Conditions change frequently and planning ahead is mostly recommended. The visa cost for a Central Asia trip covering 3-4 countries is going to be at least USD 200 but in a rush costs may easily sum up to over 400-500 USD. Take your time to plan well ahead or to stock up on visas along your route. Visa services in Europe or mail application may save time for personal visits of the sometimes rare or simply non-existent Consular Offices of the relevant country.


Ride there and back, any less is a cop out.

Be prepared to walk away from your bike if things really do go tits up!

Medical insurance with repatriation.

Bike insurance you'll find at or near borders.


Accommodation. You'll find it!

Lastly, be wary of sexual encounters with Russian truckers and Azerbaijani omelette makers.

PS. if your Firefox isn't working, change it......you'll have learnt that sort of thing by the time you get back :D
 
Loiq, good idea, that's one that I've missed, seen most of the others, but it's all relevant one way or another.
Timolgra, I read your ride report cover to cover-worth the annual subscription alone that.

So thank you both, and yes Timolgra, I agree, no cop out here.

One thing that I do worry about, and that is if you don't know exactly how long you'll be in the country, is it possible to get a Visa whilst out of your own, do they email it to you?
What I was thinking is: if I do make it to India and plan on returning similar way as I came, how soon before returning to a country that requires visa/permit can you apply?
I could calculate fairly well a one way route-most could do that with ease. But the return trip...especially if I do a tour around India which is the cherry on the cake as it were.

Off to the embassies now to get a flavour of the process.
 
You don't get visas emailed to you. You will either need to rough plan your route to coincide with your visa dates or visit an embassy enroute.
That link I gave to Stantours is with hindsight, the single most important info you'll need.
 
After a quick hunt around, and yes I know this is going to take time, I found this by a lady from Belgium giving advice for travellers including those with cars:

"Others don’t allow you in their country unless you’re part of a tour group. Iran, for example, doesn’t like Canadians, Brits, and US citizens traveling independently and Turkmenistan is just suspicious of any other nation in the world.

A few countries (like Pakistan and Russia) only issue a visa when you apply for it in your home country and/or give you a very limited time to enter the country between the time the visa is issued and your arrival (e.g. you only have 3 months to enter China from the moment you’ve got your visa)."




https://www.journalofnomads.com/travel-overland-europe-asia/
 
Timolgra said:
You don't get visas emailed to you. You will either need to rough plan your route to coincide with your visa dates or visit an embassy enroute.
That link I gave to Stantours is with hindsight, the single most important info you'll need.
Click to expand...

Stantours are brilliant! Great recommendation, many thanks.
 
https://www.michelthomas.com/

get yourself started in atleast one language you'll need.

the main thing you not aiming for a conversation, but you aiming to understand something....

tripe soup being one.... that got me a couple of times...

also get your teeth and any other health issues in order... and general level of fitness up to a reasonable standard.... it's all well and good riding down the tesco's for a pint of milk.... doing 100-200 miles every other day or doing a few big days to get to the nearest bit of far away is an eye opener...

consider doing the trip the other way round ship the bike to far away and ride home... it's a different mind set every mile you do is one less....
 
Loiq said:
https://www.michelthomas.com/

get yourself started in atleast one language you'll need.

the main thing you not aiming for a conversation, but you aiming to understand something....

tripe soup being one.... that got me a couple of times...

also get your teeth and any other health issues in order... and general level of fitness up to a reasonable standard.... it's all well and good riding down the tesco's for a pint of milk.... doing 100-200 miles every other day or doing a few big days to get to the nearest bit of far away is an eye opener...

consider doing the trip the other way round ship the bike to far away and ride home... it's a different mind set every mile you do is one less....
Click to expand...

Thanks Loiq, I speak fluent Spanish but that's not going to get me anywhere, a certain amount of French, debateable that'll help.
The health thing, yes, I'm 59 now so will be at least 60 before I can do any trips so you're bang on the money there.
Although it's not in the same league, I've done 3 trips to Spain and back (Calais across France, none of that cheating with a long boat trip), and though amenities are always close at hand, I've tended to be more self-reliant with the camping/cooking, but as you say, shops are not a 100-200 mile away (that's why I always carry powdered milk, ha ha)
 
Don't over think it, don't try and plan too much. Look at some maps, work out the countries you want to go through and sort the visas, sort the bike out, take less kit than you think you'll need. And go.
 
take less stuff, allow more time...

if you get stuck find a school, university etc...... teachers speak all manner of languages
 
Northern jock said:
Don't over think it, don't try and plan too much. Look at some maps, work out the countries you want to go through and sort the visas, sort the bike out, take less kit than you think you'll need. And go.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. Looking at the maps, I'd want to avoid going through Iran and Pakistan at length (apart from from Covid, there's political issues).
But it would appear that there's no way to get into India via Tajikistan without going through China or Afghanistan, the latter being obviously no-go.
China would then be the only option with the extra expense of the guides (needing to find other riders to share the cost with).
What do people recommend with regard to current restrictions? This is assuming that covid allows travel.
 
semmyroundel said:
Thanks guys. Looking at the maps, I'd want to avoid going through Iran and Pakistan at length (apart from from Covid, there's political issues).
But it would appear that there's no way to get into India via Tajikistan without going through China or Afghanistan, the latter being obviously no-go.
China would then be the only option with the extra expense of the guides (needing to find other riders to share the cost with).
What do people recommend with regard to current restrictions? This is assuming that covid allows travel.
Click to expand...

Well, if your trip is planned for 2023 perhaps get a few similar plans together especially understanding how and when to get your visas.

Many say Iran is a great country to travel in although you'd need a Carnet .

Recommending anything with' regards to the current situation' is very different to 'assuming covid allows travel' so I think you need to remain flexible, which is always a good mantra.
 
Timolgra said:
Well, if your trip is planned for 2023 perhaps get a few similar plans together especially understanding how and when to get your visas.

Many say Iran is a great country to travel in although you'd need a Carnet .

Recommending anything with' regards to the current situation' is very different to 'assuming covid allows travel' so I think you need to remain flexible, which is always a good mantra.
Click to expand...

Yes of course, you're right Timolgra, you've done this so I know you know..
Point taken, flexibility is key, and although I had it in mind to "do the Stan's" it may be that Iran and Pakistan have to be the route.
 
Perhaps don't completely rule out crossing the Caspian to Turkmenistan but it is a hassle and with hindsight should have perhaps come back through Iran.
Something else to consider is a get out plan should travel restrictions change while you're away as many were caught out when it first started and were effectively stranded.

I'm getting excited for you! :D

Perhaps contact Peter Cullen off this site for more info or I can point him to your thread.
 
Timolgra said:
Perhaps don't completely rule out crossing the Caspian to Turkmenistan but it is a hassle and with hindsight should have perhaps come back through Iran.
Something else to consider is a get out plan should travel restrictions change while you're away as many were caught out when it first started and were effectively stranded.

I'm getting excited for you! :D

Perhaps contact Peter Cullen off this site for more info or I can point him to your thread.
Click to expand...

Many thanks Timolgra.
I took your advice to heart about considering alternative options and am seriously considering perhaps two trips: one which is only via Iran and Pakistan into India, the other which was my original thought was to do the Pamir Highway, but that just ends there, I could return of course, but originally the plan was to drop into India (so I thought, from Tajikistan) and then I actually looked at the map.....
I understand that there's unrest in Tajikistan at this very moment too!

On top of all that, as if there aren't enough hurdles to jump over- there's this 3 month rule about Brits leaving the country.
It seems to concern the Shengen area mostly but I'll have to look into it as the descriptions aren't that clear.
It would appear unless someone tells me different, that the clock stops counting if you leave the Shengen area, and restarts when you re-enter it and stops again when you get back to UK.
However I can't find out how much longer, if at all, we can stay away from UK OUTSIDE the Shengen area ie a trip to central and South Asia.
Again, that info is sketchy unless of course, the UK GOV just mean that we can't leave UK for more than 3 months anyway.

This is why I considered maybe splitting trip into two, that way, they should be achievable within 3 months each, certainly, to do it all in 3 months does look improbable.

Lastly, there's the issue of insurance. I found a nomad insurance that covers everywhere and is just a rolling insurance so you pay monthly.
It stops after 69 though. I'm 59, so still a ways to go, but you know how time creeps up on you when you're not looking...

Anyway, that's where I'm at preparation-wise, slowly but surely.
 
Good luck with your planning and hope the trip is fab when it happens.

I was supposed to be riding overland from home to Mongolia last July/August but closed borders etc put a stop to it. I'm hoping it will happen this July/August instead but I'm not confident that borders will open up this year but fingers crossed.....

If you want to share any info/advice than please feel free to drop me a pm :)
 
Hi Snowy, thanks for that too.
I read on Journal for Nomads that Iran doesn't like independent travellers and prefers people in groups, possibly made worse by their large motorcycles only on a Friday rule.
It's getting complicated, but the worse it gets to sort out, the more I want to do it-no, the more I'm determined to do it.
I'll update when I have info on Iran, Pakistan and India. I feel some emails to theor embassies coming on.
 
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