Clutch fluid change?

vee5

vee5

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Happy New Year all. Planning a longish trip on the GSA this year (COVID willing) so I've just been looking at what maintenance will need doing and there doesn't appear to be a service interval for replacing the clutch fluid :duno - has anyone got any "best practice" suggestions on this?

Also, at the risk of asking how long a piece of string is, is there a generally accepted life for the clutch? As my bike is now north of 50k let's avoid horror stories about unusual/early clutch failures...;) Bike is a 2020 GSA with 52k on it, and is not used around town. Never used two up but quite a few k fully loaded with luggage and a few k off road. Fluid in m/c is at right level and there are no leaks at the slave.
 
The clutch on the LC GS uses mineral oil (engine oil) rather than clutch & brake fluid, so it’s not hygroscopic, which probably means it will never need replacing unless you change a mechanical component or a seal or something

By the way, you’re in the hexhead section
 
leadfarmer said:
The clutch on the LC GS uses mineral oil (engine oil) rather than clutch & brake fluid, so it’s not hygroscopic, which probably means it will never need replacing unless you change a mechanical component or a seal or something

By the way, you’re in the hexhead section
Click to expand...

Yeah I meant to be in the hexhead section. But I also meant to type that it's a 2010 bike, not a 2020 :banghead:
 
If it ain’t broke, it probably doesn’t need fixing.

The BMW spec is Vitamol V10, it’s made from an extract of Unicorns tears and powdered Dragon scales with a hint of fairy dust thrown in. A bit like the A team, if you can find it you’ll be lucky.

Suitable mineral oil based alternatives are Magura Royal Blood or LHM+ hydraulic fluid for Citroen car suspension.

If doing the job flush through 100% until all fluid is entirely replaced.
 
Clutch Fluid that you req. if it's a hexhead is Vitamol V10.

As Above !!!!
 
Pukmeister said:
If it ain’t broke, it probably doesn’t need fixing.

The BMW spec is Vitamol V10, it’s made from an extract of Unicorns tears and powdered Dragon scales with a hint of fairy dust thrown in. A bit like the A team, if you can find it you’ll be lucky.

Suitable mineral oil based alternatives are Magura Royal Blood or LHM+ hydraulic fluid for Citroen car suspension.

If doing the job flush through 100% until all fluid is entirely replaced.
Click to expand...


Motorworks sell the Vitamol V10 stuff. Although it is interesting what you said re Citroen hydraulic fluid... Do you think this stuff will do? Only £7.91 with a trade card!

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/e...clutch-fluid/comma-l.h.m.-plus-1l-124424.html
 
BMW dealer sells their stuff its blue goes black within 6 months - lots of filth in there may as well take it out
 
LHM+ is a mineral fluid so is compatible with the type of rubber used in the clutch system.

Whatever you do, for gods sake don’t use DOT4 etc, it will destroy the seals.
 
Also worth saying that the 2010 models have a known problem where the clutch slave cylinder piston becomes sticky when releasing.

Mine did this and the following words of wisdom from Jim Downie helped me test mine. To do this, take the slave cylinder off the bike but still connected to the hydraulics you should be able to push the piston fully in (clutch lever "out" = fluid return passage therefore unobstructed). Release your manual pressure and the piston should travel fully out against the retaining circlip ie no restriction within the cylinder.
If piston doesn't come fully out there must be something causing it to jam (detritus?) therefore the push rod isn't being allowed to move fully aft and is engaging the clutch (diaphragm spring has no umpff when nearly relaxed Hookes' Law https://phys.org/news/2015-02-law.html

Mine was sticky when you released, i ended up replacing the slave think it was £108 from BMW direct on next day delivery to local dealer. Swapped it over bled the clutch with the Vitamol V10 also from the dealers and its been perfect since.

You can also get a rebuild kit which i tried but honestly its easier to get a replacement.
 
not sure what material they use, but magic phenolic plastic brake piston (as used in for front brake calipers on you GS) suddenly have a habit of seizing in the bore

odd in my day on the spanners metal brake pistons on cars could take the most extraordinary abuse. AKA most Ford's that still have working brakes at 50 years old and no one's ever changed the fluid let alone touched the brake calipers for a service

yet since 1995 every other car need a random brake caliper in one corner every other year
 
mpgscott said:
Also worth saying that the 2010 models have a known problem where the clutch slave cylinder piston becomes sticky when releasing.

Mine did this and the following words of wisdom from Jim Downie helped me test mine. To do this, take the slave cylinder off the bike but still connected to the hydraulics you should be able to push the piston fully in (clutch lever "out" = fluid return passage therefore unobstructed). Release your manual pressure and the piston should travel fully out against the retaining circlip ie no restriction within the cylinder.
If piston doesn't come fully out there must be something causing it to jam (detritus?) therefore the push rod isn't being allowed to move fully aft and is engaging the clutch (diaphragm spring has no umpff when nearly relaxed Hookes' Law https://phys.org/news/2015-02-law.html

Mine was sticky when you released, i ended up replacing the slave think it was £108 from BMW direct on next day delivery to local dealer. Swapped it over bled the clutch with the Vitamol V10 also from the dealers and its been perfect since.

You can also get a rebuild kit which i tried but honestly its easier to get a replacement.
Click to expand...

To avoid me guessing, what would be the symptoms for for a sticking clutch slave cylinder piston?
 
In the higher gears it was sounding like it was slipping when you gave it the beans.

So if doing say 50mph in sixth (not best practice I know) then give it some throttle after changing up it sounded like it was slipping. Since swapping clutch slave I haven’t had anymore issues.

Also when you removed the slave and activated the lever and pushed in the pin, when you released it would jerk out as opposed to coming out nice and smoothly as it should. So the jerkiness was what caused the slip as it wasn’t fully releasing the clutch.
 
mpgscott said:
In the higher gears it was sounding like it was slipping when you gave it the beans.
Click to expand...

Mine did this, Bahnstormer said they could warranty inspect the clutch but if no fault evident like oil leaks I would be stiffed for the cost of a full clutch job (about £1k). I replaced the clutch myself for about £440 and it still slipped in higher gears occasionally. If only I knew to change the slave, I could have saved myself a lot of hassle and money. It hasn't slipped for years since I replaced the original fluid with Magura Royal Blood (couldn't get any V10).
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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