LED Tail light board

ThreeDawg

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Managed to partially melt my tail light bulb holder due to a stuck brake light switch, and I see that Motorworks do an LED replacement board.

Anyone used one of these? Looks like it might be a worthwhile upgrade in terms of spreading the light output over the full width of the lens rather than just at the centre with the original single bulb.
 
I fitted one to my R1100GS a few years ago. It is very good. It is very bright and you don't have to worry about blown bulbs.
 
I’ve had one fitted for years. Red LEDs also mean you can use a white lens.
 
+1 Got one years ago following a succession of brake light failures. Easy to fit, bright and reliable. Has some white LEDs for the number plate as well. :thumb
 
I ripped mine out went back to conventional twin filament bulb.

Why you may ask?

1. Because, the white number plate LEDs failed causing an MOT failure. They are 5v wired in series, so when one fails, they both go out.

2. I received complaints that the red LEDs and the red lens made seeing my tail light and brake light difficult, and as I wasn’t prepared to fork out for an aftermarket clear lens………….

3. I have only ever have one tail light/brake light failure in all the years…… and the bike warning system told me so.

Ian:thumb
 
I ripped mine out went back to conventional twin filament bulb.

Why you may ask?

1. Because, the white number plate LEDs failed causing an MOT failure. They are 5v wired in series, so when one fails, they both go out.

2. I received complaints that the red LEDs and the red lens made seeing my tail light and brake light difficult, and as I wasn’t prepared to fork out for an aftermarket clear lens………….

3. I have only ever have one tail light/brake light failure in all the years…… and the bike warning system told me so.

Ian:thumb

Hmm, the Motorworks ones have 6 white LEDs, not two. Dunno if they are wired in series or parallel, I would hope the latter.

Red or clear lenses should both work - you need red LEDs even in a red lens.

My brake light bulb housing has melted because after dropping the bike in a sand drift, some sand got into the switch and kept the 25W filament on in addition to the 5W running light, so a slightly unusual situation. Will obviously check this next time I fall off. :D I suppose I could find the holder as a separate part from the rest of the assembly, but I think this might be an opportunity to try a supposed upgrade.

Was the board you got one from Motorworks - your experience doesn't seem to align with the others here? Anyway, it'll be here by the end of the week. Pity the bike is still in Capetown...
 
I know what you mean about being difficult to spot, Ian. I got a white lens to match the indicator lenses, but ISTR that is only cost me about £10-15 from the For Sale stuff on here.

I ripped mine out went back to conventional twin filament bulb.

Why you may ask?

1. Because, the white number plate LEDs failed causing an MOT failure. They are 5v wired in series, so when one fails, they both go out.

2. I received complaints that the red LEDs and the red lens made seeing my tail light and brake light difficult, and as I wasn’t prepared to fork out for an aftermarket clear lens………….

3. I have only ever have one tail light/brake light failure in all the years…… and the bike warning system told me so.

Ian:thumb
 
I have one and it works well (non ABS) the only word of warning is that my non standard lens (the red cover) wouldn't fit with the conversion so had to revert to a standard lens.
 
Yeah, the light board apparently works with both ABS and non ABS, but doesn't work with the servo brakes.

I currently have an 1150 GS with servo brakes in the workshop and it has an LED rear light fitted. Haven't a clue on the make or type.

It also has the led rear lights in the indicators, remember those, think they were called malky lights, as they were made by malky, a GSer at the time.
Blimey that must be 15+ years ago.
 
Got the board today - looks well made, the PCB is all sealed up very nicely. Reckon the white LEDs are wired in parallel, wiring in series like Ian said just makes no sense - perhaps his was an amateur job?
 


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