Long 1,100Km winter ride in -2oC to 21oC

The sojourn continues southbound reaching a small coastal village halfway between Barcelona and Valencia in decidedly warmer weather, arriving in Deltebre and the Hotel Delta, (recommended). It was 16oC on Friday late afternoon.

After the usual faf stopping for and paying toll fees on the French motorways it was a pleasant surprise to find the Spanish version free of tolls, the booths that once collected fees lay abandoned on the road side.. It was a bit of a slog in coldish temps, 5oC leaving the Camargue warming to 8-10oC most of the way, until south of Barcelona. Sporadic heavy traffic was made a deal worse by some erratic Spanish driving and one or two technical issues, a glaring low sun and an absolute gale blowing from the west across the road. Spanish driving is at times, shall we say flamboyant, but nowhere near as bad as our Italian cousins, nuff said. Travelling south the sun was low, particularly in the later part of the afternoon which makes for a tiring ride squinting for two or three hours into a very bright sun. Never thought I'd bemoan the sun but......

And then came the technical issues. Transiting a rather complicated road structure around Barcelona I realised that barking Bettie on Google Maps had stopped talking to me, which made a view of the phone map essential, and with nowhere to stop I was forced to press on blind unable to see the map without raising a hand due to the sun directly in the line of sight. It must have been a comical sight me holding up a left hand in some German salute to block the sun leaning into the wind negotiating some interesting roads and traffic with one hand on the tiller. Anyway no damage done and after a stop and a reset barking Bettie was refreshed, all was well again. Why not use the Nav 6 or the BMW connect app you might ask. Mmmmm, that's another story. The Nav 6, usually used as a back up with the BMW Connected Ride App as primary refused to find my destination for some reason and the BMW app quit altogether the night before leaving the Camargue and refused to cooperate in the time allowed before departure. They say things come in threes!! So Google Maps on the phone came to the rescue until it didn't or rather, she who must be obeyed stopped talking to me which, without the glaring sun would not have been an issue. Anyway on arrival at the new hotel and with a good internet connection I've uninstalled the BMW App and reinstalled, forcing a total download of European maps once again. I am pleased to report that the reload did the trick. Quite why the Garmin Nav 6 couldn't find my destination remains a mystery, though not for the first time.

Lastly there was the wind which I thought was bad enough the day before. Gusts were severe, and at one stage I thought I'd have to stop as the GSA lurched across half a lane more than once. Anyway, I arrived in good order after another interesting ride. All a bit of a trial in some respects but fun nonetheless, I don't normally have such problems, this ride has been an exception.

Today was a day off enjoying the cuisine on offer at the Hotel Delta. Their Calamari in a Tempura batter has been a revelation to the taste buds, without giving the wallet a seeing to ;-)

Tomorrow is another small town called Mojacar on the coast 60 kms or so north of Almeria. The forecast is for 17oC rising to 20 on Monday. Happy days. Ps I will attach photos when something worthwhile arises and I fancy a stop for a pic.......for those who need eye candy ;-)

Excellent stuff, I’m very jealous and before anyone says “why not jump on your bike?”

I wish I could but I’m still on crutches after having a new knee fitted.

Minus 20...You should have driven the R75 sidecar to Stalingrade
It hurts reading this as I don't ride unless the temperature is at least 15 plus...I would have joined the Africa Corps
I hope the beaches in spain make up for all your pain as I was in mexico a month ago where some beaches where around 30-35 celsius
Only Arsey would complain as he prefers to ride around an island where it mostly rains and where they serve bland food with lots of speed cameras to boot...
Very cold and rainy in california too with lots of snow on the passes...I wish Global warming would be true
Last time I was in Spain Franco was still alive... On the back seat of my fathers Mercedes...

Boxerlust said:

Only Arsey would complain as he prefers to ride around an island where it mostly rains and where they serve bland food with lots of speed cameras to boot...)

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Are you on drugs again ?
Where is this island you speak of with lots of speed cameras ?

BigT said:

Tomorrow is another small town called Mojacar on the coast 60 kms or so north of Almeria.

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Lots of folks who have been riding long enough will know of Mojacar from the days when Ken Craven; yes, he of pannier fame, ran the annual Mojacar Rally.

I'm with Pete. Where are the pics, T?

The Mojacar Beach and the trusty steed on arrival.

More eye candy

BigT said:

More eye candy

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new tyres for return

Eye candy ? Nice bike but where is the white sand and the beach whales with or without bikinis

Two nights in the Continental Hotel Mojacar soaking up the sun on a private balcony resulted in itchy feet again and it was time to head south after a marvelous feast and truly wonderful Argentinian Rib Eye at a local restaurant called La Estancia. The best I've had in some time. Anyway sods law continues, leaving my balcony in sunshine the following morning I arrived at the bike, no more than 30 metres and a minutes walk down some stairs away, to find it P'ing down all over my freshly uncovered bike. Thankfully the shower soon abated and after a wet load up I was off south along the coast road for 100 kms or so, then onto the Motorway for a 5hr blast down to the small village of Istán and a B&B about 1 hr 35 mins or so north of Gibraltar. En route the rain soon cleared to bright sunshine and temps in the 16-18oC range, very pleasant apart from the ever present and somewhat tiring stiff easterly gale thats blown pretty well since leaving France. Anyway sods law struck again the next morning , more light rain and a wet bike cover stowed in the tool box (that's another story) my Triple Black and I set sail for Gibraltar hoping to take lunch there, then ride on south again after Gib to a small hotel about 40 minutes south.

On arrival at the Spanish/Gibraltar border there was a queue several hundred metres long disappearing around a corner that once joined, could not be escaped from and it was not moving. I rode on finding a seaside/Rock side view parking spot for a cogitate and a coffee from my well used Thermos. The parking allowed for a splendid view of the Rock and after another coffee I decided disappointingly, to give Gibraltar and Covid checks this and that a miss, arriving at my next night stop by 1430. A small hotel just north of Tarifa called Meson de Sancho. They could not have been more welcoming nor helpful, finding a locked heated garage for my TB and a log fire burning in reception for me. Happy days.

The next morning, after a very, very stormy night of howling gales, it was time a for a 500+km blast to Lagos in Portugal taking in the coast road first, affording views of the Straits of Gibraltar, with Africa clearly visible some 8 miles away. A stark contrast if ever there was one!! The long legs of the GSA and the comfort of my RDL let me ride for 4 hours or so none stop before a brief fuel guzzle and another coffee from that thermos. Temps were a pleasant 17oC or so in bright sun but the wind, especially for the first couple of hours was punishing and thus, with the forecast of abating winds the further west I went in mind, I pressed on. The forecast was true to its word thankfully arriving at the Portuguese border in calmish conditions. Their border police were stopping people, thankfully I was waved through after revealing an unshaven ugly mush with a smile as I approached without having to stop. I normally research the hell out of my trips, this time I failed twice to spot obvious gotcha's.

First, Portuguese time is one hour behind Spain and more importantly, there are electronic Tolls on some Portuguese freeways I've found out, having passed through several of them. I had no idea, there is no warning nor apparent method of paying. After some internet research this morning one can register with a credit card and pay that way. How I retrospectively pay for tolls already passed is another story. Research continues. My bad, no excuses.

Anyway I arrived at my next stop just outside of Lagos an hour early, due to the time change, but no harm done. The Casa da Ladeira Branca B&B is a delightful place offering new rooms with a walk in rain shower and a v.comfortable bed, terrace and secure parking right by my room, with access from the rooms private terrace (from where I'm writing this missive bathed in sunshine wearing shorts and a T.shirt .....and all for €40 including breakfast. I've decided to stay here for 3 nights enjoying the sun and 16oC for some R&R, a bike clean and some local riding along the coast roads. Sunday I plan on making a place called Nazare half way up the west coast of Portugal which, according to reports is a surfers paradise with waves up to 25m. Needless to say I shall be admiring them from terra firma ;-). Anyway that's all for now, stay safe and well.

More eye candy of the trusty steed and The Rock + view across the Straights to Africa.

Great ride report,and thanks for the photos.That bike looks heavy though!!!

Kimbo

walkingpictures said:

Great ride report,and thanks for the photos.That bike looks heavy though!!!

Kimbo

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A lot heavier with me on it .

The heavy stuff, tools etc are low down in the panniers, just lightweight stuff in the bag and top box, though she is heavy the weights down low and isn't a problem for my 6'5" self ;-). Sadly I have to carry spare most things, I'm a 3-4XL in riding kit and take a size 15 shoe, none of which can be easily replaced in case of a failure so have a complete Klim Badlands jacket, trousers and riding boots in the panniers just in case. Imagine being stuck 1,000's of Kms from anywhere with a split boot or failed zip on riding gear? The pleasures of being the Big T are many and varied ;-)

Just seen this.

Yes, those mountains (Alps) are quite a barrier. Rode back from Italy in December. Exited the Gottard tunnel - heading deeper into Switzerland) encountered -2° with heavy snow/blizzard and just one lane being used. It went on for about 20km+ I am sure people in cars were looking at me and thinking wtf. But like you I was plugged into my W&S gear, listening to music, with my eyes glued to the black track in front of me! Rest of the ride on up through Germany to Calais was utter shite weather. Quite a journey.

Enjoying your write up! Bike looks great and not dissimilar to mine once it's loaded up. And yes, like you, my packing is very strategic with heavy stuff right at the bottom.

That sea down there will be warm!!! I'd be in there getting a few km in - in me speedos

Keep up with the write up. I'm planning something similar for Easter



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BigT said:

A lot heavier with me on it .

The heavy stuff, tools etc are low down in the panniers, just lightweight stuff in the bag and top box, though she is heavy the weights down low and isn't a problem for my 6'5" self ;-). Sadly I have to carry spare most things, I'm a 3-4XL in riding kit and take a size 15 shoe, none of which can be easily replaced in case of a failure so have a complete Klim Badlands jacket, trousers and riding boots in the panniers just in case. Imagine being stuck 1,000's of Kms from anywhere with a split boot or failed zip on riding gear? The pleasures of being the Big T are many and varied ;-)

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Apart from a puncture repair kit there only two items you need to carry for emergencies;
1, Gaffer tape for anything that moves when it shouldn't.
2, WD40 for anything that doesn't move when it should.

Fair comment, that said as with all tools they are entirely unnecessary until you need them. I carry enough for most of the bolts on the bike and enough to remove a wheel if needed to repair a hard to get at puncture especially when one is out of GSM range in the middle of nowhere? Today whilst cleaning the bike (done to keep on top of the job and to check the bike over) I found a bolt on my Puig windscreen that had come slightly loose. Easily fixed with the right tool? The Wera kit photo attached does for 90% of my needs + one or two other bits for wheels etc. No great weight all said and done offering piece of mind should the need arise as well as the always useful Gaffa Tape, Zip Ties, Wire cutter, stout pliers, a stout knife, scissors, needle nose pliers etc on a multi tool, puncture repair kit, small air compressor, Loctite, first aid kit, fluorescent over jacket (mandatory in parts of Europe) and of course, cleaning kit ;-)

Then there's a spare set of riding kit and boots. (I'm a 3XL+ and a size 15 boot, 5XL Gloves. Replacement is not readily available if one should damage anything or break a zip for example). Carried as a result of 50 years experience on bikes, all of which I've used at one time or another.

Each to their own

Slipperyeel said:

Just seen this.

Yes, those mountains (Alps) are quite a barrier. Rode back from Italy in December. Exited the Gottard tunnel - heading deeper into Switzerland) encountered -2° with heavy snow/blizzard and just one lane being used. It went on for about 20km+ I am sure people in cars were looking at me and thinking wtf. But like you I was plugged into my W&S gear, listening to music, with my eyes glued to the black track in front of me! Rest of the ride on up through Germany to Calais was utter shite weather. Quite a journey.

Enjoying your write up! Bike looks great and not dissimilar to mine once it's loaded up. And yes, like you, my packing is very strategic with heavy stuff right at the bottom.

That sea down there will be warm!!! I'd be in there getting a few km in - in me speedos

Keep up with the write up. I'm planning something similar for Easter



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Tomorrow I start northbound up the west coast of Portugal to Nazare (of the 20+metre surfing waves) and an old farmhouse for a night. Then up the west coast of Spain before turning east toward Bilbao, southern France, Genoa in Italy and Udine, ready for a dash over the Alps (ish) via Villach and Klagenfurt to Vienna.(I'll be picking a good day to get the last bit done and will wait in Udine as needed before Villach and Klagenfurt, which is usually minus something at this time of year)

Sea temps here are 14oC, but rest assured my swimmers will stay locked away in the bowels of a pannier, saving the local populus from a frightful sight ;-) Good luck with your Easter trip, stay safe and well. Tony

BigT said:

Tomorrow I start northbound up the west coast of Portugal to Nazare (of the 20+metre surfing waves) and an old farmhouse for a night. Then up the west coast of Spain before turning east toward Bilbao, southern France, Genoa in Italy and Udine, ready for a dash over the Alps (ish) via Villach and Klagenfurt to Vienna.(I'll be picking a good day to get the last bit done and will wait in Udine as needed before Villach and Klagenfurt, which is usually minus something at this time of year)

Sea temps here are 14oC, but rest assured my swimmers will stay locked away in the bowels of a pannier, saving the local populus from a frightful sight ;-) Good luck with your Easter trip, stay safe and well. Tony

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You said you kept the lightest things on the top. Get those Speedos out

I'm rather envious of your trip. But by some coincidence, I will be heading to Italy (again) early June, but this time I will be going via Wien to see some old friends - I lived there some years back. So my continuation on into Italy will much like yours, just a lot warmer by then!

I'm on the same page as you in the tools dept too by the sound of it! I've got the kit down to a roll with all the tools to remove both wheels. But also a lot in between. Basically if I can't do the job with my little kit, then it's a workshop job anyway. My roll is, I think, about 6kg.

Enjoy the West coast and the farmhouse. I have friends dotted all around Europe, Inc Spain. At some point I'll get onto that long tour to see them all!

Safe riding. I hope the weather behaves

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Slipperyeel said:

I will be heading to Italy (again) early June, but this time I will be going via Wien to see some old friends - I lived there some years back. So my continuation on into Italy will much like yours, just a lot warmer by then!

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Good luck with the trip and the weather Rodin, the last ride I took to Italy was in torrential rain and freezing cold from Ulm until halfway down the Brenner pass. Not a good time to discover that my textiles leaked and my oversuit waterproof coating had turned to dust plus I only had thin summer gloves as it was mid May. At least Riva Del Garda was warm and sunny on arrival.

It’s Monday morning at the 900 year old Quinta do Campo B&B just outside of Nazare, Portugal. The weather forecast for the end of that week looked bleak in Vienna, with extended periods of snow and plummeting temperatures. Even worse the Alpine crossing forecast from Italy to Austria looked dire, with heavy snow and temps into minus double digits, in other words ‘a no go’. The forecast clearly suggested I get a wiggle on and get home on Thursday before the weather hits closing down the route for several days, a small matter of 3,000 Kms. Sadly the new plan meant ditching a tour of Spains north coast, I’ll just have to come back ;-)

Decision made, plug pulled. It was time to leave Quinta do Campo and head for home. The shortest/fastest route was diagonally in turn across the interiors of Spain, then France via Vichy heading toward Stuttgart, Munich and then Vienna. However the weather for that route was miserable, with snow and extended hours of sub zero temps. And so though longer, the southerly route to San Sebastián (Spain) Toulouse, Marseille, Nice, Monaco, Genoa, Brescia, Venice, Udine, across the Alps to Villach (Austria), Klagenfurt, Graz and finally Vienna seemed far more attractive.

The first leg was Nazare to San Sebastián, about 8 hrs + stops. Leaving Nazare at 9am I arrived San Sebastián at 6.30pm, spending the last hour or so in the dark negotiating a very twisty section of unlit motorway and an even more twisty mountain road to a night stop at the Malkorra Hotel & Restaurant. Sadly and very disappointingly the restaurant was closed without warning. I was not amused. The trip across Spains highish interior had been a cold one with temps down to 3 celsius. A hot meal at the end of it was the reason for booking the hotel. C’est la vie. On the bright side I had a good sleep in a well provisioned room followed by an excellent breakfast.

Day two of the sprint was a long one from San Sebastián to Andora and the Hotel Garden (visited on the way down). Situated on the south coast of Italy, just across the French border to the east of the Côte d’Azur. This leg was a 1,000 Kms and 9.5 Hrs + stops. The first four hours was in fog and mist with temps down to zero before the sun emerged to the east of Toulouse and temps rose gradually to 12oC past Arles. Again, the end of the ride was a difficult one. Two hours in the dark along very challenging unlit French and Italian motorways winding through tunnels and road works, following the coast. A part of the journey not to be repeated in the dark!!!. The owner of the hotel was waiting to greet me bless him at 8pm, with a warm welcome and a helping hand for the luggage. A good sleep followed by an excellent breakfast of eggs and bacon, + the usual continental add on’s before a 10 am departure to Udine and day three of the sprint.

Initially day three progress was slow, passing endless road works through the coastal mountains and literally a 1,000 or more +++ heavy trucks, often sat at a standstill in single lane sections of the works. Bless those drivers, I managed to weave my way through some of the congestion, they would have been stuck there for hours. Anyway after a deal of fog and mist again as the warm coastal air met the cool of the interior I emerged onto the Italian Autostrada for an uneventful ride to Udine, arriving at 4pm after 650 Kms. The Albergo Ristorante and Hotel Belvedere just north of Udine was the best hotel of the trip for my final night and cost a paltry €45. An excellent very modern room, rain shower and lots of steaming hot water helped warm me up and relax the ageing muscles before indulging in a feast of Pasta to start and Lamb Chops as a main, which were superb.

Day four was the cold one……..it did’t disappoint, with a very interesting surprise to finish the ride, completing a full suite of riding conditions. It was 3 celsius leaving Albergo Ristorante Belvedere, which quickly warmed to 7 or so before starting the climb into the Alps, bathed in bright blue sunshine, affording a spectacular grand view of snow capped mountains. As we climbed the fun began, temps plummeted to minus 4 celsius and stayed there for the first 2 hrs + as I gingerly and slowly threaded my way through the Alps and a metre or so of snow on the roadsides, following the tracks of the trucks to avoid icy patches where the road wasn’t dry. That said most of this section was dry and obviously well salted with the usual Austrian efficiency. The A2 autobahn is not a standard freeway with many long and relatively sharp bends adding to the ice angst until reaching Graz and climbing temps up to 7oC. From Graz its about a two hour or so ride through a small range of mountains around Hartberg before descending onto the plains of Burgenland and Vienna. But the fun was not over…..not quite yet.

On arrival Vienna and about 10 minutes or so from my apartment downtown the blue skies turned to a menacing black. I thought I was in for a dousing of rain in 7oC, but oh no. On the last section of the A2 I could see what looked like rain blowing across from the west. I wasn’t rain, it was an horrendous blizzard of ice pellets and snow, temps plunged instantaneously from 7 to zero. Reducing visibility to all bit a few yards, worsened by the ice and snow sticking to my bike, windscreen and helmet visor like the proverbial to a blanket. Roads that were clear one minute turned into pure white within seconds, such was the ferocity of the weather and accompanying wind, which must have been well over 50 Knots drifting the snow as it went. As you might imagine I reduced speed to walking pace and very, very gingerly arrived home in as bad a blizzard as I’ve ever seen and that’s saying something. Behind me, the motorway was closed as cars slid around and couldn’t see where they were going. I was fortunate to get home, I dread to think what it would have been like, stuck in traffic at a standstill in this blizzard had I arrived 10 minutes later.

After a very hot shower my wonderful lady awaited with home made everything to feed the traveller. Watching the snow and a lightening show from our roof top apartment viewpoint above Vienna. A quite spectacular and a fitting end to a wonderful nearly 8,000 Km ride……in January