Gael back in Africa.

I refuelled at Keetmanshoop where I turn west towards Luderitz.

On a long day in the saddle like this, I like short stops and to get riding quickly again, bear with me on this. So at the fuel stop I told the guy serving that I'd pay inside, as I was buying a drink, big mistake. I went in, picked a drink, queued up behind 2 other guys who were being served slowly. When they finished, the 2 ladies explained I needed to use the other counter to pay for fuel and I could pay for my drink there too. I walked over there was no-one serving, I waited, than went back to the other counter and asked them to get someone to serve me. The lady came, she saw my credit card and shouted over to the other counter for the credit card machine.

The card reader was brought over, she stared at in and inserted my card and passed it to me in an under the counter drawer. I put my pin in, gave it back to her in the drawer.
She stared at it again then, said it was declined. I asked to see the printouts. She reached for the stapler which had no staples. She filled it snd stapled the papers together and handed them to me. It said declined, but first said no connection, so declined for an off-line transaction. At this point I reached for my wallet and paid cash and left the place shaking my head. Sometimes you need to just smile.

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My concern with this route to Luderlitz was that it was 340km from Keetmanshoop with supposedly one fuel stop in Aus at 200km. I was worried that if the fuel was not in Aus I'd be stretching my auxiliary supplies. Pondering this dilemma I spotted a truck parked up and pulled over. The gentleman reassured my there was fuel there, to my relief. Arriving at Aus it was clear it had been hit by a flood and there was still some sand on the road. There was confusion here as wo what pumps to use but I got my tank filled and headed on. T0230770.jpgPH000784.jpgPH000785.jpg

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I knew this last stint would be tiring and I wasn't wrong. My first concern was a big shower to the left but it stayed away. Then I came down into this sandy plane, which in fact was part of the Namib desert. I was intrigued at first, as a it certainly looked spectacular. Then a wind picked up, a head wind, which was also on my right side and I had to lean the bike to the right to keep upright. We rode along like this on a perfectly straight road, then suddenly the wind wasn't from the right but the left, and stronger with gusts. This was now taking my full attention. I changed down one gear, then another, to maintain control of the bike. I still had about 70km, to go. So all the way in to Luderitz I struggled with this wind, one of the worst I encountered. As I got closer to Luderitz, the sand changed to lighter grains and beautiful dunes were forming on the side of the road.PH000788.jpgPH000790.jpgPH000794.jpgPH000801.jpgPH000802.jpg

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The sand was blowing across the road and in fact encroaching on to it. This can be quite dangerous for a biker, because if you hit that sand at speed, you could lose control. Anyway after an hour of wrestling with the bike and wind, I made it into Lideritz, which I hope to explore tomorrow. PH000805.jpgPH000798.jpg

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Looking at the physical map I should not have been surprised at crossing the desert yesterday. That would not have prepared me for the blustery wind though.

The expanded map gives a sense of the size of the Namib desert, from southern Angola(where Simon and I found the welwitchia plant) through Namibia, to northern South Africa. I'm hoping the wind will have eased for my return trip, so I can enjoy it this time.

20220130_110140.jpg20220130_112938.jpg

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I've been reviewing the output from my Garmin Inreach Explorer. I activated my 1 month subscription while leaving Windhoek and its been tracking my movements since, as long as I remember to switch it on, like I didn't when leaving Mariental. Some family and friends have access to the live tracking which updates every 10 minutes. Now I know how it feels to be stalked, as it tracks you to the hotel you stay in.Screenshot_20220130-094223_Earthmate.jpg

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After a slow start I took the bike out for a poodle around and about the town of Luderitz. I'm not sure what to make of it and I think the last thing it needed was Covid and lockdowns. It's pretty dead. The 335km from the main road, with one road in and out, can't help. I didn't bother last time but thought I'd give it a go. It seems a bit frozen in time but on not sure which time, early 20th century I perhaps, see what you think. The feature church, on the highest point, with stained glass windows, was closed, well it was Sunday!20220130_150644.jpg20220130_145821.jpg20220130_151057.jpg20220130_150936.jpg20220130_141250.jpg

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Jim: glad you made the effort to ride to Luderitz and take and share these photos! (As you ‘now, I did not want to go all that way and back, hope you will feel it was worth the effort.
 
simondippenhall said:
Jim: glad you made the effort to ride to Luderitz and take and share these photos! (As you ‘now, I did not want to go all that way and back, hope you will feel it was worth the effort.
Click to expand...
I'm perhaps judging the town harshly Simon, as it's a Sunday and just coming out of lockdown. However I'm not sure I could make a strong case, to persuade you to visit. I enjoyed the sea views and wildlife which I'll cover next.

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I wanted to see what was outside the town and it was very pleasant to meander on the bike. There are a couple of peninsulas and a few islands and a wonderful blue sea.
The first small peninsula is an extention of the town and I headed there first. There was a metal barrier and a uniformed guard. I asked if I could go through, and he said yes but I must pay $10. I hesitated for a moment, then realised that is £0.50 and I felt the funds could run to that. I paid the man and he said the recipt would be waiting for me. He opened the barrier letting me in to these little gravel lanes around the headland. 20220130_131138.jpg20220130_131159.jpgPH000001.jpgPH000004 (2).jpg

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Approaching the gate on the way out, the uniformed guard, approached me with a massive receipt book and pen, which I had to sign and take my copy, then he opened the barrier. I went a bit further around to a beach, but no-one was swimming, too cold. There were some birds and in with the gulls were a few pairs of ducks. White-faced Whistling Ducks in fact.

Turning back I went towards the 3rd peninsula and came across some dozing Flamingos, not knowing whether to stand on one leg or two. In the same salt flats are I spotted these Terns in the distance, which seem to be Whiskered Terns.P1020262.jpgP1020267.jpgP1020268.jpg

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I think many bikers have wanted to ride on the Bonneville Salt Flats and have a go at a world record. Well I've not ridden at Bonneville, but I have ridden the Luderitz Salt Flats, however no speed records were broken.20220130_143906.jpg

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Jim, Kolmanskop is worth a visit on your way out of Luderitz. Could already be on your list👍
 
Guys, great to get some feedback. Hard to judge at times if I'm striking the right note. In the end all I can do is write as I see and feel and hope a few people get something from it.

Thanks Hun, but Kolmanskop will have to wait for another time. Now back in Windhoek but more on that later.

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Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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