Gael back in Africa.

So time for a catchup... I had a disturbed night on my last day in Luderitz. I'd had a stomach bug over the weekend and while not serious, it made me wonder about staying an extra night. The town was covered in a thick mist, enough to dampen my enthusiasm to stay and my Astrakhan seat. I showered and went over for breakfast. I kept it light with some serial and toast. I loaded the bike, felt OK and hoped I was over the worst of the bug.

I headed off out of town in different circumstances than arriving, temperature in the low 20s and a damp road, light winds thankfully. The knobbly tyres felt OK on the wet road but I didn't push it on the corners. I looked out for a large sand dune as I entered the desert and parked close to it. Last time I crossed the Sahara I stopped and climbed a sand dune, making fresh footprints along the ridge and just taking in the solitude and vastness. One thing I regret, is not collecting some sand, as I wasn't sure when I'd be back. No climbing this time but I was going to get some sand. The dune was damp, and damp sand didn't seem right, so I dug down to the dry stuff and it's now safely in a Tesco freezer bag, a requirement for any adventurer.20220131_084622.jpg20220201_164200.jpg

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This was the grey overcast scene as I climbed up into the desert and half an hour the sun had broken through and it warmed up. It's quite a climb and I was at around 1,400 meters when I got to Aus and the required petrol stop. I'd stopped in this nice looking cafe in Aus, on the was through, and had this Black Forest Gateau. I didn't notice till too late it was stale, and it may have given me my bug. I revisited the seat the crimb, but I only had a Fanta and no ice. 20220131_090439.jpg20220131_101122.jpg20220129_142158.jpg

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I left Aus in reasonable spirits and continued towards Keetmanshoop. The weather was now warm, in the mid 30s and the threat of rain seems to have received. I was drinking regularly but it seemed to be going straight through me, but still feeling OK about making Keetmanshoop, as the day was a reasonable 340km. I stopped for a couple of promotional photos I'd promised the guys at Happy Trails in the US, with their gear on the bike with a semi desert background.20220131_125308.jpg20220131_125857.jpg20220131_125907.jpg

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I was still enjoying these great stretches of Namibian roads stretching out in front. Are we sure the Romans never got down here? I recrossed the Fish River with water flowing south, still the only river I've seen which was not dry.PH000018 (1).jpgPH000021 (1).jpg

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Soon after that things began to change for me. Those of a queasy disposition may want to skip this section, but I'll keep it high level. I began to feel a bit weak and was finding the heat oppressive. I stopped and poured water over my head to cool down. At one of these stops I suffered nausea for the first time. I hoped this may help clear my condition but sadly not.

Later I stopped again and must have been looking in distress, because a truck pulled over behind me. The driver was a biker and checked how I was. He concluded it would be unwise to continue riding and made a proposal. He was going to Windhoek and would take me with him. I said I could not leave the bike. He said he'd put it on the back of the truck and I wasn't arguing. He ushered me into the cab. After 20 mins he rejoined me in the cab and it dawned on me then, that the truck had a hoist. Ludwig was my rescuer that day. We needed to stop a few more times and Ludwig made calls to a doctor on the way to Windhoek. If I did not improve he would take me to the doctor in Mariental, about half way. In fact I did feel better after taking some medication and we continued to Windhoek, driving into and through an enormous thunderstorm, and I was glad to be in a truck not on a bike

Ludwig had not finished and put me up in his spare room. The kindness of strangers, not my phrase but that of BBC foreign correspondent, Kate Adie. We should all be kind to strangers when we can. And if we have a problem along the road, hope that a Ludwig will stop. This is the bike being unloaded this morning. Despite the downpour last night, it started first time. I'll rest up here for a few days.

Here the bike is been lowered from the truck, with Ludwig on the right of the last photo.20220131_193440.jpg20220131_210113.jpg20220201_075101.jpg20220201_075520.jpg

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theoneandonly said:
do we really need GS's ?
Click to expand...
Yes, how would have been if Ewan and Charley had headed off on 250s, extolling the benifits of light bikes?

However I had an R1200GS for 8 years and did 40,000 miles on it. Only took it to Africa once, Morocco, and the rest in Europe, apart from Eastern Turkey. The off-road capabilities were most exploited, in getting in and out of campsites.

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The blessings of your chosen deity on Ludwig :thumb

Hopefully you’ll have been to a doctor or pharmacy by now & are on the road to recovery
 
Jockser said:
The blessings of your chosen deity on Ludwig :thumb

Hopefully you’ll have been to a doctor or pharmacy by now & are on the road to recovery
Click to expand...
Yes, Ludwig is a gem. He's going to follow me for the rest of the trip, ha ha!

Thanks, have seen a doc and have some meds and certainly on the mend. It poured here today, so happy to be resting.

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Following along Jim and enjoying your writing style. Glad you are happy with the Magadans and they are living up to expectations. Take it easy lets the meds do the work and you'll be on your way before you know it.

Safe riding.
A
 
Great write up.

Enjoy reading about your travels, but in all honesty, a bit outside my comfort zone. I'm OK with touring in europe.

Wow, just Wow being helped out by Ludwig. Top marks to him. A real gem.
 
Thanks for the concern guys, and I'm continuing to improve. Been eating normally today. I'll still take easy tomorrow and hopefully head off Friday. Spent a bit of time considering the itinerary, trying to minimise long days and have rest planned in. Somewhat against my nature but probably sensible.

Archie, the Magadans are great. If Heineken made panniers... They hold a lot, so I have to be careful. The bottle pockets are very handy, with water bottles on the front and petrol in the rear. Just the job. Thanks!

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Understandably a quiet day today. After a relaxed breakfast, I did have one thing to sort on the bike. I had a sense the battery was not the strongest, it always started but not spun the starter motor up forcefully. Went down and discussed with Tommy and decided to be safe and put a new one in. They put it on charge for an hour before fitting. This gave a chance to check the air filter, after the gravel roads and desert sand. It was not too bad and I put it back in but bought a spare for the rest of the trip20220202_090721.jpg20220202_114044.jpg

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I then lifted the top of the fuse holders to confirm the size and noticed that each of the fuse holders near the battery had a spare. While we were at it, I got the guys to check the oil and while it was OK, it took a sip that brought it to max, on the tiny oil window.20220202_115024.jpg

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Apologies, this is all a bit technical but there wasn't a lot else happening.

So while there, Tommy wheels in this HP2 Enduro, looking in excellent nick. It had been stood for years and not started. With the tank cap off, we could smell the stale petrol. I'm no expert on HP2 but here's Bennets description:-

"The HP2 Enduro was meant to fulfill the dream of fans of the GS for a full-on off-road boxer that would eat boulders for breakfast and poo out pebbles."

As I say not my words, but not a bad summary of the concept. I'm not sure in reality many people explored their full potential but still a desirable bike, unless you're 5ft 7ins. I know someone who has a well prepped example, tucked away for the day he takes to African roads again. Now that's a ride report I'm looking forward to, right Ed?

Tommy's plan was to clean everything in the fuel line including injectors, replace oil and try and start it. I'll check before I leave on the result.20220202_122817.jpg20220202_123728.jpg20220202_123933.jpg

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Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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