Twin cam final drive

Pale Rider

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Hi, just read through the main thread relating to the final drive failures...but it seems to point more towards the earlier single cam bikes 2004-2008 etc, well i was wondering as my 2012 has the later type final drive with the drain plug at the bottom are these units more reliable/les prone to problems etc.

Btw i did an oil change over Christmas and took the shaft out to lube the splines, and while the final drive unit was hanging down i was able to use the drain plug to refill with the specified 180 ml of Castrol long life 75/90 Axle, I’m guessing this is ok rather than taking the small screw out at the back and filling through there?
 
The later drives are better built. So long as you put 180ml in, it will be fine.
 
Nope my 2010 Twin cam went at 14,000 miles , rebuilt by Mikeyboy.


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The later drive units have a revised crownwheel bearing arrangement,which runs in the final drive oil.
Unfortunately the bearing cage sometimes wears prematurely and the cage collapses without warning.
Normally the 1st indication of a problem is the wheel side seal failing completely as the cage pokes through and shreds it.
Oil change every service and remove the speed sensor to check for pieces of the cage,as the sensor is magnetic..
As a by the by,
The bearing is an angular contact ,Not a deep grove.
The bearing is made under licence to bmw and is not available elsewhere.
 
Not heard of anyone filling up with new oil while the FD is hanging down. Can you get the 180ml in that way? Sounds an interesting way of doing it.

There is a fill plug, which strangely has an allen socket rather than a torx like everything else. I fill from there, once the FD is back up and engaged with the shaft and all bolts tightened - become uber efficient at this job lately in my effort to get the water out!

As for lubing the splines, I think unless the concertina gaiter/boot at the gearbox end is split, they should be fine at that end. But good job the op has done it. One thing off the list



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The later drive units have a revised crownwheel bearing arrangement,which runs in the final drive oil.
Unfortunately the bearing cage sometimes wears prematurely and the cage collapses without warning.
Normally the 1st indication of a problem is the wheel side seal failing completely as the cage pokes through and shreds it.
Oil change every service and remove the speed sensor to check for pieces of the cage,as the sensor is magnetic..
As a by the by,
The bearing is an angular contact ,Not a deep grove.
The bearing is made under licence to bmw and is not available elsewhere.
Excellent reply and thanks. Also i note that you are near Melton Mowbray , I’m just up the road near Loughborough so if I ever need anything doing I can’t handle myself I’ll be in touch for sure.
 
Not heard of anyone filling up with new oil while the FD is hanging down. Can you get the 180ml in that way?
Yes think about it.... the drain plug is at the bottom so when you swing it down to do the splines it is now at the side facing forward (if that makes sense).
 
My rear wheel bearing failed 32k on a 2010 bike and Mikeyboy rebuilt mine also. Great job and been fine since.
 
Yes think about it.... the drain plug is at the bottom so when you swing it down to do the splines it is now at the side facing forward (if that makes sense).

I never thought to do it that way on my '08, I usually refill via the rear speed sensor hole to save dropping the FD. My shaft splines are burnished and lubed with Moly60 paste so no need to revisit that job for a while.
 
Yes think about it.... the drain plug is at the bottom so when you swing it down to do the splines it is now at the side facing forward (if that makes sense).
Presumably the ABS sensor hole is too high (for the filling oil to escape) in this position then?

Think I'll stick to ye olde method for now. But I'll take a look at this way when I do it next

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