Nt1100 and Apple car play

JJH

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Looking at the way to connect your Apple phone to the screen seems to show that you need to connect an audio device first. Is this correct? It also seems to suggest that it must be plugged in to the usb plug. Coming from the F850GS which allows directions to be shown on the screen trough Bluetooth I’d like to have a similar setup if possible. Most cars with car play just connect wirelessly. I think the Africa Twin has a similar set up so if anyone can help I’d be grateful. Thanks JJH
 
Looking at the way to connect your Apple phone to the screen seems to show that you need to connect an audio device first. Is this correct? It also seems to suggest that it must be plugged in to the usb plug. Coming from the F850GS which allows directions to be shown on the screen trough Bluetooth I’d like to have a similar setup if possible. Most cars with car play just connect wirelessly. I think the Africa Twin has a similar set up so if anyone can help I’d be grateful. Thanks JJH

Unless, NT1100 supports wireless carplay (which I doubt it does) your iPhone will need to be connected via usb, to maintain its battery power etc.

The request from the bike to connect Apple CarPlay to your audio device (intercom) is also correct as the bike hasn’t got built in speakers for navigation voice guidance.

BMW system works through the app installed on your phone, which merely mirrors basic navigation to the screen using Bluetooth connectivity.

Hope this helps.
 
I think it’s a requirement to connect a Bluetooth helmet to use Car Play on a bike .
I’m currently renting an Indian which has a 100w speaker system yet you still need a Bluetooth helmet to allow Car Play to function after you have plugged your phone in via USB
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JJH - my 2020 Africa Twin has the same system. It doesn’t support wireless CarPlay (get with the program Honda!) but it is possible to use it without a headset. When prompted, just hold down the ‘back’ button on the left bar for a few seconds and it should then kick in. The connection is fairly cable sensitive by the way, and at least on the AT some cables will vibrate slightly free during riding. Yet another reason why wireless CarPlay should have been used.
 
It seems a bit odd that the phone must be plugged in because the screen sees your phone. At least I think there’s a phone symbol at the top left of the screen. JJH
 
It seems a bit odd that the phone must be plugged in because the screen sees your phone. At least I think there’s a phone symbol at the top left of the screen. JJH

I'll be honest, I don't pay too much attention to those other than the one that tells me if my headset has for some reason disconnected (Cardo Packtalk - PITA). If your phone is bluetoothed to the bike I think it shows up there, also keep in mind the bike has a GPS sensor built in so the signal could equally relate to that. A bit of trial and error might tell you what's what.

One thing I will mention, the way that Honda have set up the power modes, engine braking, TC, wheelie control etc is very counterintuitive. You would think that more blue on the dials, or increasing a setting would increase whatever that setting relates to but that's not the case for all of them. It's worth spending some time reading the manual for those. All that said, there's not a huge range of adjustment. I concluded that more blue on the dial = more nannying.

Power value (Engine output level)
[P] Power value has four setting levels.
Available setting range: 1 to 4
- Level 1 has the maximum power.
- Level 4 has the minimum power.

[EB] Engine brake value (Engine brake
level)
EB value has three setting levels.
Available setting range: 1 to 3
- Level 1 has the strongest engine braking
effect.
- Level 3 has the weakest engine braking

So based on this, if you whack power and engine braking up to the max, what you'll end up with is minimum power and least engine braking. Wheelie control seems to be the opposite as does Traction Control in that the highest numerical setting is the most aggressive level of intervention.
 
I noticed that. Tbh I just leave it in tour. JJH

Tour is fine for most situations. It's worth setting up a user mode similar to Tour but with the power mode all the way down (or is it up). I found on my 1100 ATAT that the combination of an already lean-running motor, French E10 fuel, 35C+ and their 30kmh town speed limits was asking a bit much to be able to keep the speed steady. The tiniest bit of throttle caused a surge. Having that 'Tour soft' user mode really helped smooth things out, and once out of town I just flicked it back to my usual mode. Hopefully this is an area that they've improved with the NT1100 being 2 years on.
 


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