Will a Slip-on from an 07 fit straight on to a TC please?
If so, will the Flappy Thing need messing with at all?
TIA,
BB
If so, will the Flappy Thing need messing with at all?
TIA,
BB
Exhaust Swap Query....
- Thread starter BillyBoxer6
- Start date
Personally I'd recommend ditching the Flappy Thing as it's a PITA!
I got Racefit (end of the road) to run me up a replacement section of pipe
I got Racefit (end of the road) to run me up a replacement section of pipe
Personally I'd recommend ditching the Flappy Thing as it's a PITA!
I got Racefit (end of the road) to run me up a replacement section of pipe
Does that require any Electrickery at all?
No - just remove exhaust flap and tape up cables.
Thanks for that....
The interface between the TC headers and the ‘07 tail pipe won’t match unless you are able to get someone to form a connection that bypasses the flappy valve but reduces in diameter and meets up with the older end can correctly.....
Easier I believe to fit a complete system (non-flappy!) from an earlier model, if that makes sense, as the main mounting points are identical.
yep slightly different
if u check akrapovic cans the early ones got a bracket made of carbon fibre - the later ones had a welded proper bracket and then u have to bridge the gap to the flap
some will throw teddies if u disconnect - there are plug in resistor thingies to lie to the bike the motor is happy
if u check akrapovic cans the early ones got a bracket made of carbon fibre - the later ones had a welded proper bracket and then u have to bridge the gap to the flap
some will throw teddies if u disconnect - there are plug in resistor thingies to lie to the bike the motor is happy
Ah right, I thought I’d read something about having to install an Electronic Gadget somewhere.
Rarely ever simple is it?
Rarely ever simple is it?
That's on the Water Cooled versions.
Oh….now I’m not confused at all….
If you remove the flap valve you may as well remove the operating motor assembly as well.
Either way it will throw up a fault code on the ecu.( the fault code is thrown up if you just disconnect the mechanical operating cables ).
I have no idea as to weather this code affects any other parameters in the ecu , it does not appear to but after a while I fitted the little eliminator box which stops the fault code being reported.
Either way it will throw up a fault code on the ecu.( the fault code is thrown up if you just disconnect the mechanical operating cables ).
I have no idea as to weather this code affects any other parameters in the ecu , it does not appear to but after a while I fitted the little eliminator box which stops the fault code being reported.
Thanks Chris, I'll pick your Brains nearer the time if that's alright?
No problem, happy to help.
You don’t need to remove the flap valve actuator if you remove the valve, just take off the cables, or tie up them up neatly.
Is there any mileage (i.e improvement in Sound), in keeping the Flap but fitting a more Open Can?
I understand that the flap valve is designed to shut and quieten the exhaust at the rpm / speed that the legislation calls for a specific dB reading.
The best place for the flap valve along with the operating servo motor is over the hedge.
The best place for the flap valve along with the operating servo motor is over the hedge.
......The best place for the flap valve along with the operating servo motor is over the hedge.
I understand that the flap valve is designed to shut and quieten the exhaust at the rpm / speed that the legislation calls for a specific dB reading.
The best place for the flap valve along with the operating servo motor is over the hedge.
the idea of the noisy flap is quite sensible - setting it open during idle was a nasty childish idea - but it is in many ways is just shift cam on a budget - fit lively cams trying to get it to breathe and make serious go at the top, and lower down the revs half the air falls out the exhausts - so to compensate you have to ride it worse pushing up emissions - bung up the hole and it works better ...EXUP YPVS ATAC all the same basic idea try to keep the fuel inside where it makes a better bang rather than just a smell
So....As I've yet to jump into this "Operation", what's everyone's thoughts on De-cat Headers with Std Can, as opposed to Aftermarket Can on Standard Headers please?
May as well explore all angles before committing!
May as well explore all angles before committing!
Great question BillyBoxer6, I await the collective thoughts as I am interested in looking at this exhaust mod.
Similar threads
