Engine disassembly project

NeilH · Jun 17, 2022

I have decided to open a thread on my engine dissasembly trying to keep all the issues with this project in one place and belive me it's going to be full of them.

This is a rusty R1200RT 2005 model with shattered cam chain guide rails (Possibly all of them) bought as a non runner and as a project really to learn about how the R1200RT works take it apart and perhaps even rebuild it.

On receiving the bike, it was totally dead, no battery power, so I started with putting in a spare battery and just read the error codes with a GS911 and this gave me 16 fault codes from engine to screen.
Taking of the the cylinder head cover presented me with lots of broken plastic showing the cam chain guard rail(s) are broken. so I started the process of taking the bike apart so I could access the engine probably shearing 4 or 5 bolts in the process.

Now the ABS is off the block, alternator, cylinder head covers, sensors etc.

Removing the cam chain tensioners also told a story, the left side plunger and spring are not even visable so they are probably deep inside the engine, the right side pictured shows scores of the chain running directly against the plunger.

Next I come to start to take off the cam chain sprockets, with the engine locked at TDC and a 2 ft breaker bar all I've suceeded in doing is breaking 1 50 Torx and bending the splines on the 2nd torx bit but not damaged the sprocket (thats the good news).

I applied enough pressure to actually lift the engine and the bench that its tightly strapped too. :nenau

So if anyone as tips on how to loosen the cam chain sprockets thats what I need next, the cam chain guide rails are already broken so if I need to use something more drastic I can.

If you have any recommendations as to a make of torx bits I'm interested in that too. (UK based)

It's all fun until you hit a stuck nut or bolt then the true learning begins.

Wierpig · Jun 18, 2022

Interesting to see! Look for Mac tools torx bits. More robust than most others, including snap on

thomo57 · Jun 19, 2022

Do you have an impact wrench ?

Caerelon9176 · Jun 20, 2022

Any serious work on engines or vehicle for that matter, if you know the jobs going to be a PITA (Pain in the Ass) get only case hardened tool bits. Good for impact drivers, windy guns, and good ole fashioned mullering of screws and fixings, anything normally in black is impact driver country and are the best for the job. :okay

Remember most of those fixings have threadlocker applied, so heat what you can and use cotton gloves on every nut and bolt. Plenty of YouTube advice on difficult screws and nuts etc.

Popell · Jun 20, 2022

is it defo a clockwise thread?

NeilH · Jun 22, 2022

Popello - Clockwise thread as far as I know....never taken one off before.
thomo57 - perhaps I should bring it over to you for help to undo it and I'll buy the beer :beerjug:

A most frustrating hour, using an impact wrench and impact T50 I still haven't got the bolts loose, considering there should be no lock tight and tightened to 65nm I should be able to get this undone.
Because of the camshaft sensor reluctor ring also sits connected to that bolt I can't apply heat without making a plastic mess.

So I have stepped back and start thinking about my options:

Drill camchain link and remove that part of the cylinder intact
Apply heat and worry about the mess later - but will I get it undone? Heat to what temperature?
Pick the engine up drop it in the boot and take it where? Tyre place and use an air impact driver? Some other type of establishment ?

Mr Bean · Jun 22, 2022

Years ago I bought an 18v Clark impact wrench and its performance was woeful. You sure your wrench is delivering the power you think it is?

Just a thought.

NeilH · Apr 16, 2023

So eventually I can get back to stripping this engine, after a house move and build of a small workshop (shed) as I have no garage.

This T50 was an absolute pain, after snapping a "snapon" T50 as well as twisting splines, the head of the T50 was destroyed, this inculded the use of a long breaker bar. In the end I had to use a bolt extractor set with a mate twice the weight of me behind the breaker bar and me holding down the engine, which was strapped to a bench. Before it went crack I was already feet off the floor.

In order to put on the bolt extractor we had to break the sensor to get the clearance around the head.

Anyway job done.

NeilH · Apr 16, 2023

Next came the removal of the heads....and as you see...not a cam chain guide rail in sight.

NeilH · Apr 16, 2023

Eventaully down to the pistons

NeilH · Apr 16, 2023

Then moving on, removing the top sproket using a 2 legged puller, using heat as well, this eventaully came of revealing the oii pipe and pump behind. Pulling of that sprocket took time, I tried using a 3 legged puller but it could really get grip no mater which size I used, then it was onto the 2 legged pullers and even that was a challenge.

As you can see the timing chain guide is also broken with the tensioner directly on the chain. The other side was had also snapped.

NeilH · Apr 16, 2023

Pistons are out, then the process of removing the bolts which keep the case together and the bottom seal removed....basically it almost fell apart as I removed it.

NeilH · Apr 16, 2023

In the mean time I have misplaced my Haynes manual, but I do know to split the block there are two points I can tap on, but I thing I have to lift one half off the other which implies the block needs to be facing piston arm down with the long threads in the way. Unless someone can point me in the right direction.

So I think my plan is to build a small box the height of those long threads, drill 4 holes for each thread and a center one for the piston arm to give it stability, then tap the top off separating the block.
If I should be doing it that way someone please point me in the righ direction.

If I was to rebuild this.....

What is the best way to clean the engine block? can I bead blast it and paint it? (I seem to recall don't sand blast it)
Is the block all aluminium or something else?
What type of paint?
Should I replace the bolts?

Any tips?

r1200rt · Apr 17, 2023

how many miles had the bike done?

NeilH · Apr 17, 2023

85, 000 miles. +/-

NeilH · Apr 19, 2023

I cracked it open and looked inside and this is what we have.

NeilH · Apr 19, 2023

I'm so glad I didn't just try and replace the cam chain guide rails using the slice method, I wouldn't be able to see the true extent of what happened.

NeilH · Apr 19, 2023

Plenty of plastic as well as the body of the cam chain tensioner all floating inside as well as 2 piles of plastic and I'm still fishing it out.

NeilH · Apr 19, 2023

Because I'm not paying for my time it still begs do you repair it and put it back together and what do you actually replace. If I was to do the chains as well it would bump the cost up another good £150 above just replacing what is broken.

But this is also about learning and the experience. I've never built and engine in my life or taken one apart, but it is satisfiying.
There are a few sheared bolts in the whole process that need to be sorted out, cleaning of the engine block, replace the cluch, seals and perhaps some bearings.

If you where rebuilding this what would you replace?

Nin · Apr 19, 2023

NeilH said:
Because I'm not paying for my time it still begs do you repair it and put it back together and what do you actually replace. If I was to do the chains as well it would bump the cost up another good £150 above just replacing what is broken.

But this is also about learning and the experience. I've never built and engine in my life or taken one apart, but it is satisfiying.
There are a few sheared bolts in the whole process that need to be sorted out, cleaning of the engine block, replace the cluch, seals and perhaps some bearings.

If you where rebuilding this what would you replace?

Don’t for a moment think you’ll get value for money, you won’t. Spares are pricey, a reasonable used engine that’ll work for years is cheap in comparison.

But, the learning and sense of achievement from continuous problem solving is brilliant and you can’t put a price on that.

In which case I’d strip it right back to bare essentials, strip and re-coat casings, barrels and heads, and replace all wearing parts. Then you have a new engine that you built. Then I’d stick it in a bike and use it.

But that’s just me.

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