GS1250 exhaust flap valve problems!

Nick dj

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My flap valve failed at 8000 miles and a year old. Under warranty they replaced the whole front pipes.
It looks to be failing again but is out of warranty!
I did fix a sticking one on a twincam but was told the WC GS was built in, has anyone fixed theirs? how?
 
How long ago was the repair done?
 
Think you’ll find warranty repairs are guaranteed for 2 years

Either way, I’ve had warranty work done outside the standard 2 year period as “good wil”

Considering they’ve already fixed the same problem once I’d be surprised if they don’t do it again buckshee
 
If you get stuck I have the complete system spare, headers & cat/flap.
 
Just eliminate the servo flap. I fitted one of these to my 2019 R1250GS after it failed out of warranty, a bit noisier when you start up, otherwise it doesn't affect performance or MOT (mine just sailed through its MOT). Under £40 and take minutes to fit. All you need to check beforehand is that your exhaust servo flap is open which is dead easy, just remove the end can and you can see whether it is or not. Part number for my R1250GS was ESE-BM1, but you can check the right module for yours on the site

https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese
 
Mine failed with about 4700 miles. Had it recovered back to dealers in Bristol new pipes fitted. Can’t fault BMW assist, they collected the bike from home and delivered it back once repair completed. I’ll probably change the bike next year before the 3 yr warranty expires.
 
Traffic893 said:
Mine failed with about 4700 miles. Had it recovered back to dealers in Bristol new pipes fitted. Can’t fault BMW assist, they collected the bike from home and delivered it back once repair completed. I’ll probably change the bike next year before the 3 yr warranty expires.
Click to expand...

I recently purchased a 2019 GSA and a friend commented on my headers being brand new. I can only assume they had to replace them under warranty due to a seized flap to put the bike 'approved-used' on the forecourt.
 
leadfarmer said:
Think you’ll find warranty repairs are guaranteed for 2 years

Either way, I’ve had warranty work done outside the standard 2 year period as “good wil”

Considering they’ve already fixed the same problem once I’d be surprised if they don’t do it again buckshee
Click to expand...
Repairs carried out under manufacturer s warranty do not have a warranty beyond the original period ie 2 or 3 years depending, if they were replaced outside of original warranty they then indeed have a 2 year guarantee

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
 
Pukmeister said:
I recently purchased a 2019 GSA and a friend commented on my headers being brand new. I can only assume they had to replace them under warranty due to a seized flap to put the bike 'approved-used' on the forecourt.
Click to expand...

Or the previous owner put an Akro system from new then put the 'new' OE headers back on. I have a lovely set of 'new' headers in my loft for this very reason.
 
lock nut

I took the cover off and the lock nut on one of the cable stops had come completely off so that the cable moved not the flap.
It was still stuck so I sprayed the spring and valve with penetrating oil,
slackened the other lock nut and lifted both cables out of the slots.
then used mole gips to turn the valve then used the two steel arms on the valve to open and close it several times while still spraying the spring to work it and some copper slip into the top of the spring- you cannot see where it turns.
Reconnected the cables then turned to bike on to watch it open and close it -as it does every time you turn it on.
All sorted for now anyway could do to get some copper slip into the bottom of the valve sometime but my exhaust bolt is seized.
Not a difficult job - just need my warning light turned off now
 
Would a high Nickel content grease be better in such high temperatures than a copper anti-seize?

My R1 EXUP unit was problematic using copper grease, it was fine once I started using a Nickel grease.
 
Pukmeister said:
Would a high Nickel content grease be better in such high temperatures than a copper anti-seize?

My R1 EXUP unit was problematic using copper grease, it was fine once I started using a Nickel grease.
Click to expand...
Tried that, religiously lubed my exhaust flap every 3 months with high temp gunk recommended on another forum, still failed at around 5k miles and needed new headers :)
 
autogs said:
Repairs carried out under manufacturer s warranty do not have a warranty beyond the original period ie 2 or 3 years depending, if they were replaced outside of original warranty they then indeed have a 2 year guarantee

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Only 2 years outside the warranty if you make a financial contribution.
 
I've just 'unseized' and lubricated mine, engine management light turned itself off when I freed it up but I'm expecting the thing to seize again.

Does just removing the cables, leaving the valve in its fully open position and letting the servo actuate without cables attached avoid having a fault code/engine management light?
 
Again, and again!!

Its stuck again twice in the last 4 months!

I am thinking of taking off the steel cover on the bottom of the valve to see if lube in there may help.
 
Nick dj said:
Its stuck again twice in the last 4 months!

I am thinking of taking off the steel cover on the bottom of the valve to see if lube in there may help.
Click to expand...

There is a cover over the top of the valve, but nothing on the bottom. You can try taking off the rear can and putting some high temp grease on the spindles, but I've done all that and it will eventually stick again. The only solution is new headers, or just live with it being stuck open and fit a servo buddy if the stuck valve throws an engine warning.
 
Repair 4!

Repair 4
I took off the top cover and used a paint brush and industrial cleaner to see if corrosion and dirt in the top was possibly the problem-NO
undid the lock nuts on the cables and pulled them out of their slots and removed the end can to give access to the inner pivots.
I then sprayed plus gas penetrating fluid inside and out whilst pushing the valve closed and using the cable to pull it open, trying to work it into the bearings. Still stiff and I wasn't convinced it would work for long.
A BMW mechanic at Alan Jefferies told me after replacing the first set of headers that the cure for problems with the Twin Cam flap valve - was too used a socket on an extension bar as a drift on top of the valve and give it two or three good whacks with a hammer.They felt it gave a couple of thou's clearance and seemed to solve the problem.
But as this is the 4th time, I did as instructed and gave it a few softish clouts. It did seem to turn better, So I gave it two good whacks. It seems much improved!!
I am wondering if the heat expansion and top spring push-pull the valve up?
I put some copper grease on all the pivots and used WD40 to try to wash it into the bearings whilst opening and closing the valve many times. It feels freer than it has on my previous attempts. I will keep you posted about how it works long term!
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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