ICELAND Reset - 2022

The following day I've decided we should leave our tents etc behind and travel with just essentials for us and the bikes, I'll make a long circular route which includes two new trails for me.

It was the description given to me which prompted leaving the tents behind.

"First you need to cross two rivers, there will be steep climbs, 400 meters through a lake, some more technical riding including 700 meters along a river."... but no mention of the snow and sand, additionally the rivers are a little higher than usual in places.....excellent:okay

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Okey so I may have over dramatised this next day a little :D but 15 minute from the campsite and 'that photo' which did cause concern at the time!

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Help is on hand immediately

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We need to strip the bike down to dry it out and it does run.

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The problem with many modern dirt bikes is the crankcase breather which often runs straight into the air box so when that floods it contaminates the oil and in turn any water chokes a paper oil filter.
Stainless oil filters can be a good option if available.

I'd suggested H fit at least a filter on the end of the breather hose and run it high, ideally with a U bend obviously this doesn't eliminate all problems but it does mean no dirt can enter the oil side of things....water in the combustion chamber is easily blown out, on my 525 the breather runs into the inlet manifold ie. after the airfilter and I fit a non return valve from a Merc supercharger system as well as gaffa taping up the sides of my airbox.


We change the oil once with what we had with us and ran it without the oil filter, got it back across the river where H could ride back to the campsite to eventually do another oil change and fit new filters. Sorted.

A familiar sight unfortunately.

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Why did it happen?

I'm sure H won't mind this point so others may benefit:beerjug:

With all things taken into consideration here's Rob following the ideal line with H lined up behind him on the far bank

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A few metres in and H is already in trouble as the bike is pushed onto bigger rocks and stronger currents. I have the disadvantage of going first but anyone following a line that works should take it to the inch....hindsight's a wonderful thing I know.

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JD wades back as Liz having just witness the 'incident' very wisely dismounts (Rob I know you're breathing a sigh of relief as this is your bike:D)

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No drama from Chuckle Brother Steve.

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Just over the bank and only 30 metres away was the second river, although it was a longer crossing after walking it it presented few problems. John Van showing how to do it

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Hang in there Rob

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Hero JD again, this time with Liz's bike


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What you playing at Steve? :D

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Now where?:D

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Phew, now we can start the trail ride :beerjug:
 
JD, a hero indeed as were all of you mucking in when ever needed. I'm not sure that I'd want to ride someone else's bike across those rivers, I'm not even sure that I would have wanted to ride Liz's 525 if I'd been there :)
The experience didn't put H off though and I hear he rode many more crossings later in the week, not so bad for a pensioner :)
 
I’m loving it and can’t wait for the rest of the report. Keep it coming Tim please. I was sweltering in 43c heat in Portugal on the road bike whilst you were there. I was envious of you alll standing in rivers.

Great pics as always.
 
I’m loving it and can’t wait for the rest of the report. Keep it coming Tim please. I was sweltering in 43c heat in Portugal on the road bike whilst you were there. I was envious of you alll standing in rivers.

Great pics as always.

I saw your posts at the time mate and as much as I enjoy your company was sure glad I wasn't with you!

Summer doesn't seem to have arrived in Iceland this year and we were often cold which of course doesn't show in the photos.
Terry forked out a small fortune for a better sleeping bag when we passed through Akureyri much later.
 
JD, a hero indeed as were all of you mucking in when ever needed. I'm not sure that I'd want to ride someone else's bike across those rivers, I'm not even sure that I would have wanted to ride Liz's 525 if I'd been there :)
The experience didn't put H off though and I hear he rode many more crossings later in the week, not so bad for a pensioner :)

This was both JD's and H's second time here, last year H was on a GS and hadn't ridden this very well sorted Husqvarna 501 before the trip started!

H is into his 70's and has my utmost respect, when a guy tells me he wouldn't have come had he realised beforehand just how hard it would be but at the end was so glad he did it makes it all worthwhile.

I believe he knows one thing especially, that's, if we're lucky life offers us just one thing....choices.

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H and JD, the photo that says it all and my favourite of the trip for that reason.

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This could have been JD making sure H gets across :D

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But had you asked H if he enjoyed this particular day......

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This was to be a spectacular ride into a remote area which as mentioned earlier I'd wanted for several years but as always with routes like this there are fewer photos as we're very much involved with the riding.

A short way in I'd actually missed the faint track off to the south that was ours but it did bring us up here which was a real bonus.

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Back on our intended route! At the top of a steep section.

Liz

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A big smile from Geoff

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The trail twists and turns as we hit snow on sand along a steep traverse, I lose my front wheel twice in 10 meters, turns out others also did the same.

Another easier snow patch, it's cold and almost sleeting.

A wobble from Rob

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Steve

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Then the trail stops on the shore of a lake, continuing 700 meters on the far side.

The lake fills a crater where very large vehicles have been lost in the past, one monster truck was found 30 metres under water.
We need to take care and at least ride on the ledge as close to the bank as possible.

First, a few of us try a sheep path along the edge, but this only gets us part way before being forced onto a small beach.

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And still a way to go, here we can see the bottom it's going to be easier from here to ride in the water so we let the others know who haven't started yet.

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Phew

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Just as we're about to join a more used track for a short while we stop to chat with an Icelandic guide who has guests on board, he's asking about snow conditions in particular where I'd dropped my bike twice on the steep slope.
I won't give him a yes or no answer which we both laugh about :D it was him who told us about the dangers of not riding on the narrow ledge in the lake.

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For a few miles we're now on a familiar track although I'd only ridden it once previously, its brings us to a remote lake.

It can be a bleak place out here


We're still less much less than half way through today's ride so quickly stuff ourselves with sweets and chocolate before heading off again.

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After a long section of mainly deep sand and small water crossings we come to a steep sandy hill which presented quite an obstacle last time I was here.

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Looking back down the surface is good and firm this year but Liz's rear wheel has broken through the sand and wedged itself under a large rock.

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Her bike is upright again:thumb

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Spot the trees!!

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Your's truly

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Shortly after the top we take a smaller and the 2nd part of today's route that would be new to me.

No photos of this trail unfortunately as it ran along a shallow stoney river set in a gorge which we follow for 700 meters!

Team talk :natter

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Many steep climbs turns and descents Oh and one river which I almost dropped my bike into, just managing to hold on to it while much of it was under water.
I made a few checks to make sure it was ok, phew its was and phew no one was quick enough with their camera :D

Much, much later we're back at the campsite to be greeted by a forlorn looking H and we help with another oil change letting it drain overnight.

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A great day of true 'Adventure Motorcycling' :okay
 
Next morning we get H's bike running sweet as a nut after yesterday's dunking, another oil change and new filters was all it needed and showed no sign of moisture in the oil for the rest of the trip.

We head north on the most beautiful of trails.

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To stay in this area we'll need a longer ride to get fuel etc before taking trails back to our next campsite.

The plan was to pitch tents and go for a ride in a stunning area during the much better evening light.

Whilst at the garage and on a piece of tarmac it wasn't unexpected that one of the team needed to return home for personal reasons and that Steve would accompany him then meet us again in a few days.

This would mean that in a few days my plan A would change to plan B and we would need to head West instead of East but that's no great hardship :)

I pitch my tent in exactly the same spot where 12 months previous I'd hatched the rough idea for this trip.

With a mug of tea in hand and relaxing in the sunshine I had a moment of blissful relaxation ........ before Baz appeared asking what time I was going to take him and Terry our for the forgotten promise of an evening ride....Oh feck:D
It's need to be done this evening as the light was right and wouldn't be as good in the morning.

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The three of us head out on a 'brisk ride' with a few obstacles along our way....mainly lava fields, snow and one particularly narrow section on a steep slope which just left enough room for a tyre, so narrow we needed engine off and paddle it through otherwise the rear wheel would break away in the sand and cause more problems.

Baz

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And the following morning's coffee before we set off to the centre of Iceland

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Rob riding his CRF 300 Rally

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Rob leads myself then Baz followed by the other along this favourite trail.


While stopping for fuel again and of course more coffee I ask a pretty Icelandic warden about the condition of river crossing much further ahead along the Sprengisandur, there's a warden stationed there, she calls him on the radio.

Smiling she tells he advises against all small Jeeps attempting it and we should walk the crossings first, carry our luggage and walk the bikes across, smiling again she says "have fun" :)

I've ridden this long trail many times and find the first 20 miles or so a grind but soon becomes a great fast ride.

Passing the warden's hut just before the first river, he's of course right as the river is higher than usual, so I walk it first and find the best way across a series of streams just a matter of zig zagging between islands and missing the deeper parts.
It wasn't anywhere near as bad as I feared and we all crossed without incident.

We're about two thirds of the way across where these photos are taken.

H lining it up!

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Last bit

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I don't seem to have any photos of the second river which although narrower it can have a strong current and has caused problems for a GS during a previous trip, no such hiccups this time thankfully.

Turning off the Sprengisandur towards our wonderful campsite with natural hot pool we're on a smaller remote trail which I always enjoy, part way along is another river which although quite wide has never caused the slightest issue.....until now :blast

Terry

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Since I know this river quite well and although there's more water in it than previous trips I did ride straight in and crossed without an issue, there I saw a guy in the water with waders on quite rightly checking it out. We had a chat and was quite happy to continue in his....

Transporter!

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Liz heads downstream for a while :D

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I wonder what was going through H's mind at this time, unusual place to exit but safely across:thumb


Rob's turn on his CRF 300 Rally, although he's had the suspension upgraded with heavier springs and valving to suit on the forks I'd noticed it still handled like a 'bag o' shite' over rocks and did him no favours on several occasions! He's since been talking of Ohlins inserts and who can blame him.
Rob's a good rider, what happens here was down to the bike.

Nearly across

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Oh Oh......

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And....Splash!! :D:blast

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On the plus side, the crf 250 and 300 does handle deep water well, despite being under water a few times it always started again on the button.

We pitch tents, the warden sells us some beer and we enjoy the beautiful natural hot pool....our first wash in warm water since setting off.

I get chatting to an interesting Brit travelling in his truck, I have a couple more strong beers then he insists I share his red wine......two bottles later I stagger to my tent.
 
Geoff and Steve who left us a couple of days ago have had a slight change of situation so can now both rejoin us, we're not yet sure where or when but they've been here many times before and know their way around.

This confirms our change of plan, as we definitely need to go north and west to meet up, a very familiar route for me but hopefully the other's will enjoy it.

North it is then, dropping out of the highlands.

Terry takes a short video


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John Van :beerjug:

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More solid and safe riding from Liz :clap

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H still going strong.

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Time to go

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We call in at the big town of Akureyri to stock up, we find motorcycle oil and some hardware to repair the several broken Trail Tech sidestands!

A long ride north using a mix of road and trails we come to another familiar town Siglufjordur, my favourite. A good friend Dori who lives there meets us bringing and electric drill for the stand repairs and he stores some oil for me so I give my bike a treat.

Dori who I've mentioned in previous ride reports is always glad to help in any way he can and it's always great to receive a bear hug from this big guy.

Ah beer and food......

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My sea food pizza is huge!! Can I eat it all?
Oh yes :)

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Then hard biker I am ;) it's hot chocolate

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and bed :rob

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I've brought many people here on trips and although camping in the middle of a town isn't what's expected, it's always well liked.

A lazy start in the morning as we continue to give the bikes some care, have breakfast and a last catch up with Dori who for years has been promising to join us on his bike. One day mate :beerjug:
 
Well done all. I take massive inspiration from the challenge of an expedition like this instead of yet another road trip. With my retirement and a move from London to Devon potentially in October, perhaps it's time to swap the 1250GSA for a light weight adventure bike.
 
Well done all. I take massive inspiration from the challenge of an expedition like this instead of yet another road trip. With my retirement and a move from London to Devon potentially in October, perhaps it's time to swap the 1250GSA for a light weight adventure bike.

Glad to hear it and can pretty much guarantee you'd have buckets more 'fun' on a smaller bike, having said that many of the route's I use here can be accomplished on a GS just this particular trip was only open to single cylinder bikes and imagine you can see why.

So we press on and have a long way to go.
I'd been hoping to meet up with Steve and Geoff again later today but they're holed up in central Iceland for 3 nights due to the weather there, Steve tells me he was up at 4am hanging on to his tent :D:D they check into a room in a hut...at great expense. We'll catch up another time.

No photos as we take more of my favourite trails.

Poor H takes another dunking on a rocky river crossing, this time pinned under the bike! It becomes cold, wet and windy not much fun when he has wet clothes.

Before we cross the main route only 48km from Steve and Geoff I send them a picture....framed to the north with a glimmer of bright sky.

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We now take a very minor route which although much improved in recent years is slippy and my Mitas E13 front tyre is not inspiring me with any confidence, others also using one felt the same!

I'd imagined Steve would be looking rugged stuck in the middle of Iceland during a storm

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But I think secretly they were living it up :)

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We eventually hit the tarmac, it's already late, it's wet and windy so miss out the trails and luckily find a cafe to make a mess of with our wet and muddy clothes.

It's brightened up as we make camp.

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Then the wind picks up......I say to the guy who's collects the camping fees about how I love this beautiful spot away from the shelter in this place...... he say No, it's cold, wet and miserable :D
 
It was a wild night with strong winds battering the tents but I slept well, made coffee and enjoyed the view as the wind eases.


Then took a walk around the others tents to see how they faired and was surprised to see JD hadn't used any guy lines, unfortunately he did break a pole taking it down.

This video of 'shite tent' is tongue in cheek btw :D

 
Gotta love a Hilleberg!

I'd removed all the lower guy lines from mine to save them tangling when I pitch it but this tent has the advantage of wrapping the guy line tape around the poles for added strength.

Really like this tent, particularly the side opening at my head end so can look straight out in the morning while making coffee still in bed :) anything else now would feel slightly claustrophobic despite it being a true one man tent.
 
It had been a rough night and I think some didn't sleep well in the wind.

Although this photo of Baz was from the first day he was always the same, really organised and ready to take on whatever the day has in store for him. Top guy and rider :beerjug:

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We have a quite a long day ahead of us......and I plan to make it even longer by adding two extra trails.

The first one I've only ridden once before and that was a few years ago with my wife, she asked in a trusting voice "will I need my Sealskin socks today" to which I answered "probably not"......she's never forgiven me for her wet feet that day :blast

On the last river crossing I find out that Liz talks to her bike :D


The next trail is easy and beautiful, well it would be if we could see it, mist and rain are back with us.

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We wait awhile as Terry has a puncture, I describe the next section of the route to Baz who waits with him to meet us in the last small town we'll see for a while.

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Off the leash Baz admits to a big crash at speed along this trail but no harm done......must've landed on his head :D

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We stock up in the small town and because we're going to one of my favourite places to camp I find the off licence, the only place to buy decent beer etc. it'll compliment my flask of Jameson's well tonight.

Some of the group are getting a little tired now, roughish camping isn't for everyone for too long without a decent bed for the night.

John van... or Posh John as I jokingly call him is another lovely guy who've I've ridden with a couple of times while trail ride guiding in Wales is most in need of a break.

I quietly suggest he phones a brilliant hotel our route passes, he gives the thumbs up, he'd nabbed their last room.
I've stayed there a couple of times and know he'll love it.....we grab coffee there and will see him tomorrow as we'll be passing back this way.

The following day after a hot shower, comfy bed and great food he was looking a little more rested than here.....
....a great explorer's face :thumb2

(disclaimer.. :D I have to admit to a bit of tweaking these b&w portraits which although not complimentary I hope they tell a story)

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