R1200RT LC vibration/judder

Roymundo

Registered user
Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
64
Reaction score
1
Location
Hull, East Riding, England
My bike for the last 7 years....2015 R1200RT LC now has 39,550 miles.
For the last 4 years I have have carried out all servicing myself, using all the correct items along with a hired GS911 tool to finish off with.

The bike was very smooth to ride for a boxer, then Two years ago I felt a different vibration/judder whilst riding it, a vibration that moves the ends of the handle bars about 2 to 3mm. It felt like the front tyre is out of balance, had it checked and all was fine, so what is causing the vibration/judder?
If it had a drive chain I would be checking it for slackness or tight links.....thats what the vibration/judder feels like.

The bike starts up and ticks over with no misfire etc.

The vibration/judder when riding starts slightly at 3500 rpm then increases at 4000rpm +. When riding at say 70mph I pull the clutch lever in the vibration/judder stops, so it must be the engine causing it.

Can Anyone help with were to start looking to cure this, please?
 
Before delving deeper into things mechanical, many riders use a heavier/larger bar end weights to quell the inherent vibes, along with grip puppies/similar. have you looked at this option?
 
Have you had a look at the shaft ujs and splines? Mine seized and I could feel a vibration.
 
I have already fitted heavier bar weights and grip puppies.

The drive shaft splines and ujs have been inspected/greased. I do this every year when the rear wheel is out to renew the tyre. However since the vibration goes when the clutch lever is pulled in, the shaft would still be turning so don't think this is the problem.
 
Have you tried resetting the throttle valve adaption values?

Personally I wouldn't discount the shaft UJ yet, particularly if the vibes worsen with load. I have even heard of vibes exacerbated by rear drive/wheel bearing play.
When you clutch the trans, it unloads the drivetrain, so the vibes would disappear naturally.

BTW, given you have serviced the bike for several years, I am assuming? that you have checked the valve clearances, have good plugs/coils & near equal compression when tested on each cylinder.
 
Thanks Squibb34,
The suggestions you put forward are worth a check.....
....Resetting of the throttle valve adaption values,I have never carried this out but will get this checked.
....Rear drive/wheel bearing play, to check.
....Valve clearances, this was checked at 29,425 miles, Nov 2020.
....Spark plugs, new fitted at 34,127 miles, Nov 2021.
....Coils, to check.
....Cylinder compression, never checked but will now.
 
Has the timing been checked?

slightly out of time can cause extra vibration
 
Took the RT to TWS theworkshop York today, to see what can be done to smoothout the engine vibration. Paul plugged his computer into the bike and re-set various things.
A result....now the bike runs so smoothly, gear changing up and down is less knotchy. I'm very pleased with the bike now, such a pleasure to ride.
I can recommend TWS theworkshop, very professional set up, check them out if you live near York.
 
Paul reset as follows:......Injection control unit....ABS control unit....Instrumentation control unit...Tyre pressure ECU....Chassis electronics control unit...Left handle grip control unit....Suspension ECU....Anti theft control unit....Immobilizer control unit.
 
That’s good news, what tool did you use to static balance the rear wheel ?, I bought the abba stand years ago and thiefr bmw specific rod and cones for the rear, I notice when I spin the rear wheel it looks out of true !, I’m hoping it’s the rod and or plastic cones rather than my wheel!!.
 
That’s good news, what tool did you use to static balance the rear wheel ?, I bought the abba stand years ago and thiefr bmw specific rod and cones for the rear, I notice when I spin the rear wheel it looks out of true !, I’m hoping it’s the rod and or plastic cones rather than my wheel!!.

I also bought the abba rod and cones specific for the BMW rear wheel. And yes my wheel also looks out of true when spun on the static balancer. It's fine on the bike. The rod looks fine and with no adjustment possible with the cones its not possible to spin true. For the cost I would expect a better product from abba.
 
I also bought the abba rod and cones specific for the BMW rear wheel. And yes my wheel also looks out of true when spun on the static balancer. It's fine on the bike. The rod looks fine and with no adjustment possible with the cones its not possible to spin true. For the cost I would expect a better product from abba.

Yes definitely, I actually put the rod on my spirit level and it’s not quite straight, I wonder if the wheel centre hole isn’t quite true ?. It took 45 grams to balance the wheel with a Michelin road 6 GT.
 


Back
Top Bottom