2013 12RT - replacing the rear disc

Posh Pete

Posh Pete

Still got a pulse.
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I've ordered the bits. As usual, a quick recce suggests it's never as simple as you think!

1. I've removed the bolts on the rear caliper but it's pretty reluctant to come off. I don't recall this being the case when I replaced the pads last. Is it me?

2. Whoever designed the rear disc and carrier fitment forgot to leave enough space to get the torx bit in. The final drive hub gets on the way. :( Any tips?
 
2/ there’s a spot where it’s possible to get the bit in. Turn the wheel till it lines up. JJH
 
1 You might have to provide clearance for the pads to clear the disc by pushing the pistons back into the caliper body, you should be able to do this by pushing on the outside of the caliper body by strong hand force - push the caliper toward the wheel where it will move on the sliding pins. It`ll be best to do this with the caliper bolts replaced and snug.
2 BMW have provided access to the disc retaining bolts via the cut-out in the final drive housing where your torx driver will go - see pic. You can do one bolt at a time..

 
Eh?
Would you not just take off the wheel and then remove the bolts and disc on the flat? You have to take the wheel off to put the new disc on.........
IIR the torque value is pretty low about 12 so does require a bit of precision.
 
Bem said:
Eh?
Would you not just take off the wheel and then remove the bolts and disc on the flat? You have to take the wheel off to put the new disc on.........
IIR the torque value is pretty low about 12 so does require a bit of precision.
Click to expand...

The disc is connected to the carrier. The carrier is connected to the final drive. The wheel is connected (separately) to the final drive hub only.

Dem dones dem bones dem dry Bones ... Now hear the word of the Lord! :D

Thanks all. I tried it and I'm bound to say that cut out is a tight fit for the torx but we'll give it a go! :thumb2
 
Just for anyone else doing this job, here's the carrier for the disc and the wheel. I was wrong.- it carries both the wheel and the brake disc. It does seem relatively flimsy to carry all that weight and stresses! :eek:
ec7be432e67c71b61cccd71358804c89.jpg
 
And here's the cut out in the final drive. It's really not big enough and you end up with the torx bit (a long one) at a slight angle. There's also the risk of damaging the coating on the FD. Hence the masking tape to protect it.

Not the first time I've cursed BMW design engineers. :(

However, I managed ok and torqued it up to 30nm per bolt.
db56b6dc5cd1e290c250e9cdb1737ad4.jpg
 
Last pic to show the old and new disc. Yup, that old one was fecked all right. :D

New pads were inserted into the caliper which also got a clean up and grease on the sliders.

Just got to replace the silencer and check the operation of the flappy valve and job done. :thumb2


a713c07537e6f4ae8aeeda9c26ecf010.jpg
 
Did you reuse the old bolts ?

A dab of blue loctite is important, as new OEM bolts have a granular dry loctite coating.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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