Fuel not getting through injectors.

You can test the fuel HES this way:
Ignition on
Turn the engine manually from the alternator lower pulley with a 16 mm wrench.
The fuel pump should start once (whining noise) every full turn of the pulley.
If not, the fuel HES is a problem.

Be careful using this method…. As I’ve posted a few times going back many years. This isn’t a 100% definitive test for this method - if the fuel pump doesn’t prime then 100% certain it’s the hall sensor. If the hall sensor does prime that doesn’t mean the hall sensor isn’t the fault/problem. Just because it primes the fuel pump the hall sensor can still be the problem.
 
I made this (Timing Box) years ago to check the timing from a wiring schematic from of the US Beemer website.
Just need to find the manual write-up on my hard drive to give it a go.
a5b0bbc6552a4d8e3eeb00bc3f7887f0.jpg


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 
I bought one of these Greek hall sensors a few years ago. It was well made and worked perfectly. This was pre brexit mind!
 
This hall sender unit is from Greece @ £104 via eBay. It gives a bit of a write up on its make up.
Any pros or cons regarding purchasing.
bc5879074aaa9c3870abe739568f2155.jpg


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

If it's this one ---> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12432010...29&osub=-1~1&crd=20221003232119&segname=11050

i bought one a few weeks ago.
Didn't communicate with me - though i had asked a question (is it compatible with an R850R?).
Arrived quite quickly.
Appeared to be an exact copy of the one i was removing - so my question was redundant.

Had no problems in any respect money wise. Though i'm in the EU / you're not. :(

My experience;
service good and rapid.
Product good and way cheaper than buying local or in U.K.
(Courier delivery however - utter crap. But that's another story and not the sellers fault.)

I'm happy.
 
Thanks lads, just ordered one with the rectangular conx. He is a friend of John the ECU Chip man.

Is it just plug and play or needs to be calibrated?

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 
Is it just plug and play or needs to be calibrated?

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

If before removal, you precisely mark the position of the old one and put the new in the exact same place - no.
... well, that's what i did and it runs fine.


so far. :augie :D
 
Disconnected the sensor rectangular connection and brought it out to the front.
Notice to the right of the photo a black plastic fitting between connection and still fitted sensor plate. It is solid so a permanent feature.

It is not shown on the newer or pre-owned ones on eBay.
I assume it is something to minimise electrical interference.
Can anyone give a better description?
dbf4077535b8672272d94354252e13ae.jpg


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 
Mine had that but I don't recall if the replacement did. I'd just plug it in and find out.
 
Disconnected the sensor rectangular connection and brought it out to the front.
Notice to the right of the photo a black plastic fitting between connection and still fitted sensor plate. It is solid so a permanent feature.

It is not shown on the newer or pre-owned ones on eBay.
I assume it is something to minimise electrical interference.
Can anyone give a better description?
dbf4077535b8672272d94354252e13ae.jpg


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

If your referring to the block with two ribs - more than likely a ferrite core used to stop interference / noise on the data cables
 
(Quote by Santa)
If your referring to the block with two ribs - more than likely a ferrite core used to stop interference / noise on the data cables.

On 'realoem.com' that block is a core as you mentioned. As most aftermarket sensors do not have it, I assume there is another way to reduce interference!


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
cd74481728200bcc8407c8aa6658aa17.jpg
 


Back
Top Bottom