Gaels in Mozambique.

simondippenhall · Nov 26, 2022

And we find places using Booking.com or sometimes what’s on the GPS (ideally the best Booking.com answer is also on gps so we can find it!) but in more remote spots iOverlander is a good source too.

That’s a big benefit of getting a local phone SIM as soon as we enter a country- the ability to search for accommodation and maybe call and negotiate a rate, check the approach roads etc

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crumbles · Nov 26, 2022

Thanks for the reply Simon.. :beerjug:

Drumacoon Lad. · Nov 28, 2022

As Simon mentioned we were at the Old Bridge backpackers with its outside en-suite bathroom(photos later). Simon and I parted company today as he had to drop his rental bike back to Joburg. No doubt he'll do an update on his ride but I know he made it to SA.

Simon about 6 this morning.

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Drumacoon Lad. · Nov 28, 2022

I love this place, with the river and the pond, including crocs. The bird life is great and changes during the day. There are also monitor lizards and one kept me company today. So some birds: We have a Woodland Kingfisher, a Pied Kingfisher with fish, a Grey Go-Away-Bird and a Black Crake.

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simondippenhall · Nov 28, 2022

Yes a long run today, on almost deserted roads south of the great Makgadikgadi pans…idly thinking ‘what if I break down or run out of petrol?’

.

And indeed petrol stations were hard to spot but the GS is good for about 400kms I reckon plus I was carrying a 1 litre petrol flask.

The main threat was cattle, goats and donkeys wandering over the road (which they did) so the 120km limit was punctuated by cautious threading through cattle!

The only true wildlife I noted was a family of meerkat (10 or 12) ushering each other over the road, in my path.

There were many - nay, myriad-white butterflies- so many that at the petrol station I had to get the attendant to squeegee my visor which caused great entertainment!

Googlemaps May reckon it’s an 8.5 hour drive but that’s very optimistic as I took nearly 10, despite running at high speeds.

I had intended to stay the night around the 530km mark but my earlier start and good pace meant I carried on over the border to SA - the crossing was one of the easiest I can remember, less than 5 minutes each side

. Between the two border posts lay the Limpopo, which I crossed on a single lane bridge, dodging the oncoming trucks.

So I ended up about 4.15 as the only guest at this isolated guest house outside the village (actually crossroads) of TomBurke - one of many interesting place names sprinkled around here….Baltimore, HardTines, Beauty, Genoa just to mention a few!

My lodging

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simondippenhall · Nov 29, 2022

Today I am going to wander down through Limpopo province to Boksburg, near JHB airport, to return the bike. My flight is tomorrow night so I have a free day. What to do, nearby?

It’s also time to review the bike and it’s gear. I’ll start with the gear

The Magadan soft panniers, bought on this site, have been great- fit all I would need (and more

), and the pockets accommodate water, spare fuel, chain cleaner etc. Definitely the way forward, the only irritating thing is sliding in the cavernous dry bags into the Magadans in the morning. The bags are secured with cable ties for security but the cross straps bear the load.

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simondippenhall · Nov 29, 2022

The trusty Enduristan tank bag, also bought used on the site, has now been nearly 40,000 kms around Africa, not to mention to Leenane and back in September. It continues to delight, although spot repairs to glue Velcro back have been necessary. To Jim’s amazement, I suspect, this was a practical tsk I actually managed to achieve on my own

.

My Kriega bag was in an excellent position for all my wet weather gear, easily accessible for sudden tropical storms - and also a useful crash fender!

Finally the topbox provided with the bike was great - just the right size.

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simondippenhall · Nov 29, 2022

The bike itself was more of a mixed bag. An F800GS trophy so I had high expectations of its performance.

The engine was a peach, smooth, tractable and economical with fuel especially below 100 km/h (which speed suited Jim’s 250). The saddle was comfortable for 10 hour days in extreme conditions.

It came with a new chain and a good front tyre, an Anakee Wild.

However the back tyre, a 90/10 style Anakee Adventure, was useless off road and dumped me in the heavy mud in Lesotho.

In addition, from the get go the steering was very wobbly and imprecise which was a nightmare at slow speeds and made me hesitate to take it off road. At first I though it was the new tyre but free 5,000 kms I am pretty sure it’s the head bearings.

Two final points: the gearbox May have had a hard life over its 35,000 kms but it was very difficult to locate neutral.

My final reflection is that the bike is heavy, and top heavy - so for a pension age bloke with a weak back, not the bike to take on African tracks!

This got me into one of those reflections that you (or at least, I) have whilst riding: that I need to return to my project of 5+ years ago and get something like a KTM690 again, or Husqvarna 701 and fettled it appropriately for road trips with pistes/trails involved. This would give me a chance of getting the bike up again and would likely perform better in the sand than the 800GS.

So that’s a project for next year, to find a recent model in good condition. Have been following the related threads on UKGSer with great interest!

Oh and my Alpinestar Toucan boots (also a secondhand acquisition!

) were also great, as usual - I use them for UK greenlaning but they were also comfortable in African conditions.

The bike:

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de crowe · Nov 29, 2022

I am not sure if you posted it earlier Simon but what is rental costing you? Great report

Northern jock · Nov 29, 2022

Thanks, good to read your views on bike and kit. With the Magadans I don't bother with the inner bags, they take up a lot of space and the outers are pretty robust and waterproof by themselves. Couple of Tesco bags and jobs done.

The 800 can be top heavy but is the 690 not a lot higher? If you do find the ultimate, let us know! Light, not too high, sit at 80mph loaded with kit, handle easy off road, comfy - and looks good!

simondippenhall · Nov 29, 2022

de crowe said:
I am not sure if you posted it earlier Simon but what is rental costing you? Great report

Sent you a PM

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simondippenhall · Nov 30, 2022

Northern jock said:
Thanks, good to read your views on bike and kit. With the Magadans I don't bother with the inner bags, they take up a lot of space and the outers are pretty robust and waterproof by themselves. Couple of Tesco bags and jobs done.

The 800 can be top heavy but is the 690 not a lot higher? If you do find the ultimate, let us know! Light, not too high, sit at 80mph loaded with kit, handle easy off road, comfy - and looks good!

Good tip re the Magadans, thanks! From memory (of when I had one) the 690 is tall but what struck me about the 800GS was that it carried its weight high which is a different thing.

As you say, lightness is the thing! And I believe you can lower the 690

if that’s the thing. I can certainly remember toppling off the 690 when I stopped on the centre of a green lane between two ruts!

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simondippenhall · Nov 30, 2022

My last day’s ride, through Limpopo province, was uneventful. It started with a beautiful early morning and I sat outside watching the birds

After doing my exercises I had a cooked breakfast in solitary splendour and then hit the road by 8. I still had 400 Botswana Pula and debated going back to the border to change these but, as I had seen no one on the way through, decided I would skip that and try my luck at Johannesburg airport.

The roads were empty and sweeping amidst what appeared to be many private game reserves, boasting both of rhinos and their armed guards!

I saw zebras, baboons, another small
monkey, and some sort of deer or ‘beest’. No photos, sadly.

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simondippenhall · Nov 30, 2022

Arrived in JHB mid afternoon, I unloaded the bike at my lodging and then returned the bike to Mark. That left me today to chill out before my flight tonight, reflecting on an enjoyable and challenging trip, somewhat marred by a less than perfect bike but a good trip nonetheless. As I write this, Jim is beating his way back from Maun (Botswana) to Windhoek to garage his bike and fly home later this week.

No doubt he will have more to add when he gets off the bike but from me, thanks for following and commenting/ hope the ride report has been of interest

.

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ShakeyBMW · Nov 30, 2022

It certainly has. It’s always a joy to follow your travels.

simondippenhall · Nov 30, 2022

ShakeyBMW said:
It certainly has. It’s always a joy to follow your travels.

Thanks!

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richardbd · Nov 30, 2022

ShakeyBMW said:
It certainly has. It’s always a joy to follow your travels.

Hear, hear…

gspod · Dec 1, 2022

Great write up, as always, Simon and Jim - thanks.
We have found that AirB&B gives a price middle ground between Booking.com and IOverlander - just wondering if it has found it’s way into Africa.

Agree with you on the 800 - the boxer has a much lower COG, I preferred my old 1100 to A’s old 800 on the rough stuff. New 450 Himalayan coming out soon.
:beerjug:

simondippenhall · Dec 1, 2022

gspod said:
Great write up, as always, Simon and Jim - thanks.
We have found that AirB&B gives a price middle ground between Booking.com and IOverlander - just wondering if it has found it’s way into Africa.

Agree with you on the 800 - the boxer has a much lower COG, I preferred my old 1100 to A’s old 800 on the rough stuff. New 450 Himalayan coming out soon.

Thanks Dermot….Jim has I think used Airbnb in Africa but I’ll let him comment. Very much enjoying your travels in the ‘other’ SA…stay safe and regards to Amanda.

Also glad the Himmie is acquitting itself well. For me, a 690 enduro calls I think…even if I need to lower it for peace of mind on uneven terrain!

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Drumacoon Lad. · Dec 1, 2022

Having sorted a few things out and more emportantly negotiated the 800km to Windhoek, I feel in a position to make a bit of an update.

Before we leave the surroundings of The Old Bridge, there's a few nature photos to post. We've seen the croc in the pond, well here's himself out on the bank in the rain showing his teeth. In the second photo I remarked how close the locals will walk to a croc out of the water.

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Gaels in Mozambique.

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