Gaels in Mozambique.

Most of the vegetation to the side of the road would be described as bush or savanna. One tree that sticks out however, is the quiver tree and this a good example. These are so called because the San people used their branches to make quivers for their arrows. Some of these trees are a few centuries old.

This one is host to a family of weaver birds. There were a number of these communal weaverbird nests along the route. They have multiple entrances to these communal nests, to onfuse predators and allow escape.
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Excellent Chaps ! Safe riding and fair winds . Looks like a good find with that bike Simon.
 
The day got a little more awkward when I came to the border at lunch time. It wasn't closed but was busy with truckers and not the swift passage through I had planned. I was also surprised but should have checked, that there was no filling station on the SA side of the border. A quick calculation showed that my spare tanks would be needed and I should moderate my speed to Upington.

So as I'm taking it easy to Upington, a large storm brews up to my left, heading my direction. In fact following me towards Upington. I filled up on arrival and followed the GPS to the hotel, but there was no hotel to be seen. I hadnt yet got an SA SIM so no access to Google maps. I got directions from a passer by as the rain began to fall. Finally I pulled over, got the hotel address and punched that into the GPS and found the hotel, as the rain got heavier.

The hotel had parking, but in the street. We compromised that I'd put the bike on the pavement in front and the security man would keep an eye on it. I covered it and put a chain through the wheel. After coming back from dinner there was a change of heart and the bike is now in the lobby, parked on the tiled floor.

So as the storm rattles overhead, that'll do for today, 570km tomorrow, so to bed.

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So after an early breakfast I went to collect the bike, already loaded and now armed with all the poets I will need to get into Moz, plus a GPS!

Set off at 0900 and headed South, avoiding motorway and tolls so via Heidelberg/Piet someone or other/Bethlehem and Carens.

A cool (27C and cloudy) day and not long until I spotted a minivan rolled over in a ditch.

Not much longer before my first gravel road, from which I was offered a wet and muddy unmade road South which I declined and Garmin soon made amends.

The bike rides well although the off road front tyre makes turning very odd, more so than I remembered on the many TKC80S I ran on the 1150.

The fuel gauge took me a time to work out so I popped in to refuel after 150kms and had used 7 litres which confirms the 300kms range the owner mentioned.

Waterproofs came in just before a short but biblical rain storm and they stayed on for warmth and as a precaution.

Will try to post a map later but from Carens where I lunched…(a massive steak sandwich and a beer for 60 Rand) there were sounds if thunder and lightning.

I debated stopping in that pleasant town but it was only 14h30 and I wanted to push on.

So I found a B&B in Hlotse Lesotho in my GPS and pushed on.

Scenery was previously a lot of open spaces
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As NH with an absurd amount of GS branding
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But the odd ‘small outcrops ‘ appeared
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Crossing into Lesotho at the small border post of Caledoonspoort was a 10 minute, charming affair and the Immigration official who asked me where I had heard of Lesotho was delighted when I explained my 6th form Cross country instructor, Dr Forrest, had lived here for 2 years and extolled its virtues.
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Once into Lesotho, the pace of life changed and the roads were thronged with people and errant taxis and mtatus (small buses)….it was school exit time so I kept my eyes peeled and got many waves


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The Bird Haven B&B in Hlotse decided after some discussion it could give me dinner bed and breakfast for 700 Rand, well below their Booking.com rates so as it was 16h00 and I was weary I accepted the offer

My rondavel for tonight
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and the very pleasant dinner.
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Tomorrow I shall aim for Semonkong Lodge where I expect to meet Jim. It’s about a 5 hour ride on interesting and wiggly roads. Weather outlook is mixed until Sunday with the promise of some more thunderstorms .


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Accommodation looks good but I'm surprised at the seafood given where you are, I would have expected goat or lamb. As long as it was good. Nice friendly country.
 
Setting off this morning, the GPS gave my bad news that it was 581kms to Bloemfontein not 570, but then softened the blow by showing a good number of filling stations along the route. After a good night's sleep I'd got up in a positive frame of mind. At 6:30 I was removing the bike from the tiled lobby and started siphoning off petrol into my storage bottles. This time I also filled the 2L Touratech can tucked behind the carrier. This gave me a total of 5 litres extra and a comfortable range of over 300km.

The siphoning went smoothly, not like at Keetmanshoop. I was staying in a spotless B&B there, trying not to spill petrol on his pristine drive when syphoning. I primed the syphon tube, and went to place it in the coke bottle I was using, when a gust of wind blew the bottle away from the bike. Some of the petrol of course went on the drive but I saved the rest and recovered the bottle. I went to prime the tube again but got a mouthful of petrol, as the tube wasn't empty. Glad I was travelling on my own and no one had a camera. Here was the setup today.
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The road out of Upington was a delight. A good surface and fast corners and reminded me the bike handles quite well. It may not be the best kind of road if you have a lot of miles to do but I put that to one side and enjoyed the ride. It was a complete contrast to the long straight Namibian roads of the first 2 days.

I'd mentioned the communal weaver birds in relation to the quiver tree but as you'll see below, some have moved on from trees and now use telegraph poles. This idea opened up possibilities for me as I rode along. It gave the birds the option of having a phone, maybe even connecting to the Internet, and conceivably working from home or using Amazon or Uber eats. This might seem fanciful but if you read it with the voice of Sir David Attenborough, it sounds marginally more plausable.P1020608.jpg

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Part of the fascination with travel for me is encountering the wildlife. Some encounters have been scarier than others like being charged by an elephant in Botswana. And who will forget the tortoise who tried to bite my tyre after I rescued it from the road. Well this was a bigger tortoise, also crossing the road and managed it succesfully.20221103_153506.jpg

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The road straightened out as I got further from Upington and I was making good time. There was a fair bit of life by the side of the road with people waiting for lifts or walking to work. One lady caught my eye as she carried home a heavy load of firewood on her head. Another feature of travel is being reminded that some people have a really hard life.PH000377.jpg

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I downloaded some images from my helmet cam and here are a couple from Namibia. The first showing a village group sitting under a tree in the searing heat and the other scene is of animal pelts, springbok I think, by the side of the road.PH000023.jpgPH000020.jpg

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I'd mentioned the roads being good, well that was true until Kimberly. It got the award of the first pothole in 1500kms. It wasn't a lone pothole either. Some were dreadful and went across the road. I don't know what has happened to the roads budget in this area but its not being spent on the roads. Instead of repairing the roads they introduce a speed limit and warn you. PH000421.jpgPH000420.jpg

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A shorter day tomorrow and good to know Simon is up the road. We were originally going to meet at Eswatini and I would take and extra day to travel but the thought of visiting Lesotho again and not on a 125cc bike, persuaded me to go for this faster schedule. Even if tiring at times, I've enjoyed the challenge. Hopefully we can slow down a little now, but not too much.

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You should exit Lesotho at the Sani Pass. And visit Katse Dam. An engineering feat.

The Bird Haven B&B in Hlotse decided after some discussion it could give me dinner bed and breakfast for 700 Rand, well below their Booking.com rates so as it was 16h00 and I was weary I accepted the offer

My rondavel for tonight
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and the very pleasant dinner.
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Tomorrow I shall aim for Semonkong Lodge where I expect to meet Jim. It’s about a 5 hour ride on interesting and wiggly roads. Weather outlook is mixed until Sunday with the promise of some more thunderstorms .


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You should exit Lesotho at the Sani Pass. And visit Katse Dam. An engineering feat.
 
Leaving Bloemfontein this morning I was quite excited to be going to Lesotho. The journey was OK but chilly, even with a jumper underneath my airflow jacket. In the end I had to break out the new rain jacket to keep warm. This was quite a contrast to the heat of southern Namibia a few days ago. The border was a breeze and now I needed a SIM. Getting the SIM took longer than necessary as the people in the Vodacom shop were so friendly and wanted to chat. One has a sister who studied in Dublin etc... They were oblivious to the fact my bike was likely to be towed away at any minute.

With the SIM secured I rode off to the Semonkong Lodge were I was due to meet Simon. As I rode out of the capitol Maseru the stunning view reminded my why I love this place.PH000474.jpg

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Then I began enjoying this wonderful road, with a good surface, apart from a few potholes and some wash from the storm last night. You then get an insight into the life and culture of the country by what and who you see by the side of the road.

Men walking in traditional dress, always with a blanket and often a stick.PH000494.jpg

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