Emtb Advice Specialized Levo & Levo SL

I've got a full-fat ebike (Cube Stereo Hybrid 160), and a Levo SL. The Levo is a much nicer bike to ride, much more like a normal MTB.
It's obviously down on power & torque, but I just use lower gears & higher cadence. Most of my riding is in hilly terrain, Holme valley, Wessenden, Langsett moors, etc & it will climb almost anything. I typically get 40 miles range on a full charge, a plug in range extender is available if you need more. As said, get a demo if you can. There are some good deals on the SL at the moment, new model expected next year. Look at emtbforums.com for more info, or PM me.
Chris.
 
I have a gravel bike (no electrical assistance) and it copes nicely with everything but deep mud and very rocky trails, don’t underestimate the capability of a hybrid on 33-40mm tyres. My gravel bike also makes a good road bike. For your riding I’d avoid a full on e-mtb, weight is your enemy, and you don’t need 50mm knobblies for the riding you plan on doing.
 
I have a low milage Levo I bought on here that I haven’t used. Also have a spare unopened new battery for it.

I don’t recall what I paid but they can be bought for around £4K
 
I have a low milage Levo I bought on here that I haven’t used. Also have a spare unopened new battery for it.

I don’t recall what I paid but they can be bought for around £4K

Anything I buy will need to be XL frame cheers
 
Si, I live in Haworth, so very similar terrain to you,and also frequently ride on the (Leeds - Liverpool) canal on the way back from work in Keighley the long way.

For use on the canal only my full suspension Cannondale Moterra Carbon eMTB is pretty frustrating as it's too heavy at 26 kg to ride above the 15.5 mph assistance limit for long. I do switch the motor off at times as it's not too bad riding without assistance at around 15 mph without assistance so I don't feel like I'm cheating. My Cannondale CAADX cyclocross or Marin hardtail MTB are much more fun on the towpath though. It comes into its own when riding proper off-road trails, but is great at riding up really steep hills whether on tarmac or gravel (e.g. Alter Lane in Bingley).

Prior to the Cannondale I has an Orbea hardtail eMTB which was horrible on technical off-road trails as the back end crashed over rocks due to the lack of suspension combined with its weight. However, it was easy to ride at 18-22 mph on the canal towpath without assistance. It was also a mid-motor bike, so had plenty of torque for the steep hills too.

However, from the riding you've described I'd go for a hybrid/trekking type of bike. I recently bought my wife a Haibike Trekking 7 with a Yamaha mid-motor and it's ideal for road use and towpaths. There's plenty of stock in Evans at the moment too, especially if you're looking at an XL frame :thumb2
 

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Any test rides yet?

No test rides, but I went out on some of the route I mentioned in my first post on my Allez road bike, and in hindsight the mountain bike seems the wrong option given the amount of tarmac (albeit pot hole riddled) , so have started to look at gravel e-bikes, will update when purchase made!
 
Don’t discount Cube emtb’s. Like Chris600v I have a Cube Stereo Pro 160. I bought it about 5 years ago and it’s fantastic. Obviously not one of the top end bikes but still great. Gets me to a lot of places I’d never get to on a non battery bike. I had a pair of spare wheels built with road tyres on with heavy duty components and they make a massively difference if not off roading.
 

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As a self confessed Ebike and MTB junky, my two penneth is a hardtail MTB is a much more flexible and comfortable contraption than a gravel bike. Either assisted or not the tyres have the greatest impact on rolling resistance irrespective of bike weight or suspension. A Hardtail MTB with lightweight road biased tyres will be pretty much as quick as a gravel bike but a LOT more flexible in terms of what you can do with it. You ate then able to put a set of more aggressive tyres on and use it as a proper MTB.

Geometry lets you ride terrain, suspension just lets you ride it faster. So go for something with modern, progressive geometry for both greater comfort and terrain capability. It will also provide a greayer margin for error when you decide to have a go at something outside of your comfort zone.

All e bike motors fail.no iffs no buts. Brose are arguable the worst, bosch the best with Yamaha and shimano somewhere i the middle. The shimano and yamaha are down on power compared to the bosch unit. The bosch system is also the easiest to DIY or independantly maintain once out of warranty.

E bikes are not designed to be restricted. They are awful contraptions to ride on the road with the speed limiter fitted as you are constantly hitting the limiter, power cuts out and you either habe to work twice as hard to maintain 20mph or you ghost peddle at just below the limiter to maintain assistance. The limiter is only there to satisfy road law and IMO a 22mph limit would have been much more sensible. As it is all my amd my mates bikes are chipped/de restricted. Its essential if you are racing but also allows you to keep up with normally aspirated mates on flat sections of road.
Whatever you get, do NOT use a hose pipe anywhere near the motor, ideally tey to clean it as little as possible and ideally keep it somewhere warm and dry. My gang who use theirs off road all year round in the slop typically get 6 to 12 months out of a motor before water damage has killes it. My father in law who only uses his on the road in dry conditions has done 4 years with no issues but his battery has just died.
Conventional drive trains have no place on an e bike. They should be geared hubs on commuters or gearbox systems on mtbs. Geared hubs are currently available, gearboxs are on the way. (To the annoyance of Shimano amd SRAM).

E Bikes, good and shit. Great fun, great levelers, excellent beer scooters. Shit reliability!
 
I have had a Levo SL for two and half years now
I use it on the South Downs and easily get over 40 miles from a battery and can achieve over 70 miles with a range extender.
I don't use the motor on the flat bits (or downhill) where it is just like a normal MTB.
The full suspension - I dont even notice it compared with my hardtail MTB
I would not buy one unless going off road for at least 25% of the journey - I now have a 45 mile route and only go on roads for about 3-4 miles which is so much pleasanter than being on the road with nasty cars and trucks - if you really want to go faster than 15.5mph get a road bike
The thing about the SL is that you get just as much of a work out but you go a lot further
 
As a self confessed Ebike and MTB junky, my two penneth is a hardtail MTB is a much more flexible and comfortable contraption than a gravel bike. Either assisted or not the tyres have the greatest impact on rolling resistance irrespective of bike weight or suspension. A Hardtail MTB with lightweight road biased tyres will be pretty much as quick as a gravel bike but a LOT more flexible in terms of what you can do with it. You ate then able to put a set of more aggressive tyres on and use it as a proper MTB.

Geometry lets you ride terrain, suspension just lets you ride it faster. So go for something with modern, progressive geometry for both greater comfort and terrain capability. It will also provide a greayer margin for error when you decide to have a go at something outside of your comfort zone.

All e bike motors fail.no iffs no buts. Brose are arguable the worst, bosch the best with Yamaha and shimano somewhere i the middle. The shimano and yamaha are down on power compared to the bosch unit. The bosch system is also the easiest to DIY or independantly maintain once out of warranty.

E bikes are not designed to be restricted. They are awful contraptions to ride on the road with the speed limiter fitted as you are constantly hitting the limiter, power cuts out and you either habe to work twice as hard to maintain 20mph or you ghost peddle at just below the limiter to maintain assistance. The limiter is only there to satisfy road law and IMO a 22mph limit would have been much more sensible. As it is all my amd my mates bikes are chipped/de restricted. Its essential if you are racing but also allows you to keep up with normally aspirated mates on flat sections of road.
Whatever you get, do NOT use a hose pipe anywhere near the motor, ideally tey to clean it as little as possible and ideally keep it somewhere warm and dry. My gang who use theirs off road all year round in the slop typically get 6 to 12 months out of a motor before water damage has killes it. My father in law who only uses his on the road in dry conditions has done 4 years with no issues but his battery has just died.
Conventional drive trains have no place on an e bike. They should be geared hubs on commuters or gearbox systems on mtbs. Geared hubs are currently available, gearboxs are on the way. (To the annoyance of Shimano amd SRAM).

E Bikes, good and shit. Great fun, great levelers, excellent beer scooters. Shit reliability!

Just about spot on. I have a 2017 Trek Powerfly 7 Hard Tail MTB unrestricted and the Battery is behaving itself with a software reboot a while back. The Gen 2 Bosch Performance Line CX motor is very strong and an easy repairable unit. I am now used to the speed restriction and ride with it mostly only using unrestricted on main roads.
 


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