Snapped Bolt (Help)

dredgetall

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I gave my GS1200 a proper good clean over the Christmas break and tonight whilst returning the engine plate/protector I snapped the rear bolt (right side) any tips on how the hell I go about replace it
😩
 
Motorworks will sell you a new one, your problem will be getting the old one out if it has sheared off flush with the casing. Left handed drill, easiouts etc.

Al.
 
It snapped half way down so I should be able to remove…. How will I remove it ???

If there’s a reasonable amount sticking out there are plenty of stud removal tools available. Post a picture and you’ll get a better level of assistance.
 
It snapped half way down so I should be able to remove…. How will I remove it ???

If there's a good chunk of it sticking out, then just spray it with penetrant and leave it overnight, then heat the area up in the morning with a hot air gun (or wife's hairdryer worst case), then get a really good grip on it with a pair of locking Vise-Grips and wind it out. You may not need any more drastic measures. Fingers crossed.
 
If there's a good chunk of it sticking out, then just spray it with penetrant and leave it overnight, then heat the area up in the morning with a hot air gun (or wife's hairdryer worst case), then get a really good grip on it with a pair of locking Vise-Grips and wind it out. You may not need any more drastic measures. Fingers crossed.

The only minor snag with using heat is that the aluminium casing will expand in all directions meaning the area around the tapped hole will expand into the hole closing it up. If you’re going to use heat then fire it into the stud as quickly as possible to get the stud to expand then leave it to cool completely to contract again and hopefully crack any fusion between stud and casing.

I know it goes against the usual advice to use heat but when you think about it logically and even do a sketch showing a solid area with a hole in the middle and draw little arrows showing where the material can displace itself into when it expands it all becomes obvious. What you will get (if you’re lucky) is a kind of capillary action drawing penetrating fluid between stud and casting as it cools down but if the stud goes up into the bottom of a casing it simply doesn’t work.

I’d also recommend hitting the end of the stud with a steel hammer as it cools down because the shock will free things off but be careful on thin walled casings or you can punch the stud straight through :blast
 
If there is some sticking out I have had good success by making a few applications of a good releasing fluid such as Plus Gas then get a TORX socket that is just too small to go over the thread and use a lump hammer to hammer it onto the thread, making sure to keep it ‘square’ as you do so. It may help to use pliers to hold the socket square, or put a short extension bar onto the socket so you can hold that. Use a long lever to gradually apply torque until it begins to turn.
 
I’ve got some extractors that use a cam type of mechanism to lock onto the stud and get tighter as you turn it anti clockwise that I’ll happily lend to the OP hence the suggestion that a photo might help because they need enough stud to lock onto and in the worst case scenario you can snap the stud off flush with the casing.
 
you snapped it putting it back in ?

spray it with something , hot /cold/hot/cold , tap with a hammer for 2 mins , then stud extractor . ( not got 1 , come and borrow 1 , look me up and ring me)

my 2p worth.
 
tapping (but not bashing) on the end will help jar the steel threads in the alloy and make it easier to remove

Plenty of penetrant and if you have a heat gun heat the end of the bolt so its really toasty and lash more penetrant on it

Do that a couple of times and then a GOOD pair of vise grips or Mole grips and Heat it well and then tap and wiggle back and forth and it should come out
 
Photo of Problem

I have snapped where it meets the rubber. Thanks in advance for everyone’s help
 

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I have snapped where it meets the rubber. Thanks in advance for everyone’s help

That's Easy! 2 options it may be well enough bonded to the other threaded part to be able to screw it out

Big pair of molegrips and grip the rubber and looking from below unscrew it anti clockwise

Either it will loosen and unscrew OR the rubber will shear off )Which negates the next step had it failed to unscrew)


Use a grinder or dremel and remove the rubber

You will see the mirror of what is broken off at the outer end

A couple of raps with a hammer as in my previous post, Raps Not smashes !!! You basically want enough energy to bounce the hammer back off the metal A LITTLE

Once you do that a couple of times

Use a centre dab at the outer edge and tap the visible metal disc ANTI clockwise looking up from below

Hopefully that is enough To sort it

P.s. Drop it on to the sidestand to give yourself more room BUT turn handlebars to the left that way it is less likely to be nudged or pulled and fall on you!
 
Yup, easy fix that one. Had this twice on two separate bikes.
 
Find a six point socket that fits the rubber and unscrew it.
 
I had bolt break on the bashplate about 8 years ago. It's still broken,. Couldn't be arsed to fix it.
 
Find a six point socket that fits the rubber and unscrew it.

What the man says - you can get a six point long reach socket to go over the rubber piece and onto the bonded on metal plate that has the threaded end that goes into the engine
 
In the absence of a deep socket, I used a ring spanner which worked fine.
 
I like to hold the thin metal plates bonded to the rubber whilst tightening and undoing the nuts, it saves the rubbers being twisted.
Double nutting the threads can stop the protruding thread from damage and corrosion.
When tightening bear in mind that these fixings are only mild steel.
The thin metal plates are an odd size and awkward to find a short spanner to fit, I use an old gas bottle spanner.

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