Evening food used to be excellent and well visited by locals, as you say
Personally, like your good self…I would sooner use something to stop in, with good local food and a decent bar/cellar, when on hols and family run …in preference to a big city as you’re just one of the summer tourist hordes, traipsing around the city streets from place to place, looking for somewhere to eat from a menu board outside, unsure of the quality of the place and then either get disappointed or fed up with traipsing and default to pizza or egg & chips (as Arsey says)
Give me a small town/village with some character every time
City breaks - fly there