Clutch cover

Wardy

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Hi gents, have bought a new clutch cover, need to get it bushed.
Does anyone have the specs for this, ie diameter of push rod, etc.
Cheers Steve.
 
hope this helps.

the Loncin from the BMW parts fiche? Nr. 11 14 7700331
Part numbers for the 2 needle sleeves:

c11.14.2.343.036
c11.14.2.343.037
The seal for the top of the clutch case:
c21.21.2.343.259

https://g650x-forum.bmw-motorrad-portal.de/download/file.php?id=1050&mode=view
http://www.bilder-hochladen.net/files/ipxl-30-65b9-jpg.html
14mm

page 13 use google translate how to do it:
Deckel demontieren, Reinigen und Betätigerwelle entfernen.

1. Obere Nadelhülse (HK1210) mit Lufthammer austreiben. Der Wellendichtring wird damit ebenfalls entfernt.
Schraube M6x200, Rundstahl 66x45mm mit 6,5mm Durchgangsbohrung als Schlaggewicht, Adapter mit Innengewinde M6, ca. 35mm lang, Durchmesser oben 12,00...12,10mm, unten 12,90...13,00mm. Ich habe der Einfachheit halber einen vorhandenen Paßstift mit Innengewinde in eine Buchse geschlagen damit ich mir das Gewindebohren ersparen kann.
Adapter von der Innenseite durch die Nadelhülse schieben, Schraube samt Gewicht von außen einschrauben und "Gib ihm!".

2. Innere (untere) Nadelhülse (HK0808) entfernen erfolgt sinngemäß gleich.
Hier muss an einer 2. M6x200 Schraube das Gewinde auf M5 abgedreht werden.
M5 Mutter an 2 gegenüberliegenden Flanken beidseitig so anfasen damit sie in die Nadelhülse fällt.
Passende (ebenfalls angeschliffene) Beilagscheibe drauf und Lufthammer einschrauben.
Die Demontage ist etwas Frickelei, klappt auch nicht immer auf den ersten Versuch weil die Mutter
nachgibt und durch die Hülse rutscht. Dann neue Mutter schleifen und abermals probieren.
Es empfiehlt sich eine aus Va zu benutzen weil sie etwas härter ist, es funzt aber auch mit einer aus Stahl.
Bei dieser Prozedur ist etwas Geduld und Vorsicht geboten, wer grobmotorisch zu Werke geht beschädigt u.U. den Lack mit dem Schlaggewicht oder haut eine Kerbe in den Sitz der oberen Nadelhülse. Wer also dazu neigt öfter etwas zu versauen, der klebt besser die neuralgischen Stellen mit Panzertape ab und entfernt erst die untere Hülse und erst danach die obere. Geht auch!

3. Das 12er Loch auf 14,05...14,10mm auffräsen. Buchse sollte leicht ins Loch hinein gleiten.

4. Buchse mittig ca. 4,5mm tief auf ca. 11 mm Breite ausfräsen damit das Loch der Betätigerwelle frei ist.
Hier geht es nicht soo genau, die Ausfräsung sollte nur nicht zu groß sein, damit die Nadelhülse noch als Gegenhalter fungieren, aber noch eingebracht werden kann.

5. Buchse mit Loctite 620 einkleben.

6. Untere Nadelhülse eintreiben. Ich habe hierfür eine M12x220 Schraube hergenommen, das Gewinde abgeschnitten und einen Bund mit 8 mm Durchmesser, ca. 9 mm tief abgedreht. Schraubenkopf auf 16mm verjüngt (dient zum Setzen der oberen Hülse).

7. Obere Nadelhülse montieren und WeDi (12x18x4,5) per Hand eindrücken (geht sehr leicht rein).

8. Betätigerwelle einstellen.
Die untere Hülse darf nicht zu weit eingeschlagen werden, sondern nur so weit bis die Ringnut ca. 1 mm unterhalb des oberen Anschlags sitzt, damit der Sicherungsring noch montiert werden kann. Das Magnesium ist an der Stelle recht dünn, also keine Gewalt anwenden. Wenn das Axialspiel zwischen 0,5...1,0 mm liegt ist es okay.
Nachtrag: Das Maß von Oberseite Deckel (Meßschieber außen auf der Lackfläche aufgesetzt) bis Oberkante Nadelhülse beträgt 90 mm.

and the following pages.

plus
http://mattsnook.com/bmw/bmwXCountry/ClutchSideCover/index.htm
 
Cheers drimcong, didn't realise they were needle bearings thought they were brass bushed....��*♂️many thanks
 
Hi gents, have bought a new clutch cover, need to get it bushed.
Does anyone have the specs for this, ie diameter of push rod, etc.
Cheers Steve.

Just buy a late model XCountry clutch cover and then it will have the bush in as standard


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Just buy a late model XCountry clutch cover and then it will have the bush in as standard


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

John, is the shaft not a different length as well? Seem to remember this but not 100% without looking it up
 
If you are going to make a bush, which has to be better than bearings, you might as well use phosphor-bronze, or 'oiltite' for it, rather than brass. It will self lubricate after initial greasing and last years and years. :thumby: My Country is still on the original at 50,000 miles and it is still smooth as silk. I think it is a perpetuated myth about the clutch cover thing. :thumby:
 
If you are going to make a bush, which has to be better than bearings, you might as well use phosphor-bronze, or 'oiltite' for it, rather than brass. It will self lubricate after initial greasing and last years and years. :thumby: My Country is still on the original at 50,000 miles and it is still smooth as silk. I think it is a perpetuated myth about the clutch cover thing. :thumby:


Unfortunately you are wrong about it being a myth. The needle bearings on the pinion shaft are not the problem. It is where the clutch release rack runs directly in the relatively soft alloy of the case on the early models that were not fitted with a bush.
By its very nature as the pinon turns to move the rack in and out in a linear motion, against the resistance of the clutch springs, the rack teeth try to climb over the pinion teeth putting a sideways pressure at 90deg to the pinion and therefore wearing the case in an oval shape.
Eventually enough wear can take place so that the rack can get so displaced from its linear path that it can end up with it moving out of mesh. In a worst case scenario, breaking the teeth off either or both the pinon/ rack.
The clutch pull will have gone gradually harder over time as this wear takes place. At this point the clutch cable probably gets changed….
The real problem at this stage is if the teeth have broken off. It can become an absolute nightmare trying to get the cover off, as the rack and pinon won’t separate due to the broken teeth jamming them together.
BMW revised the clutch cover to one with a bush insert, which I’m sure wasn’t done just for the hell of it…Just like the original f650s had. And the bush doesn’t need to self-lubricate, it runs in the same oil as the rest of the engine/gearbox.
There are plenty of webpages devoted to this problem. If you haven’t had a problem you have either been lucky or maybe you have one of the later bushed covers fitted to your bike.
Personally I have seen them shot at 20,000 & 31,000miles and both covers were jammed up solid when trying to remove them. I bushed the first one and bought a new (bushed) cover for the second.
So to balance your myth statement and considering I only know of these 3, including your bike, it makes it a 2 out of 3 fail rate in my limited experience.
Regards
 
Every G650X I have worked on (and I've worked on a few) the clutch cover has been worn to a greater or lesser dgree

This results in symptoms from a heavy clutch , through to a jerky take up , all the way to loss of the clutch actuation completely

I have changed every single clutch cover for all of the G650X's that have been through my hands and the difference is noticeable once done and in my opinion is a very necessary piece of preventative maintenance
 
John, is the shaft not a different length as well? Seem to remember this but not 100% without looking it up

Hi Gareth , I'm pretty sure the shafts are identical and only have different parst numbers as they were Lonsin manufactured rather than Rotax
 
Already got the loncin cover, bought ages ago and would like to use it. Have I got it right that the bushing needs to be 14.05-10 internal for the push rod?
 
Unfortunately you are wrong about it being a myth. The needle bearings on the pinion shaft are not the problem. It is where the clutch release rack runs directly in the relatively soft alloy of the case on the early models that were not fitted with a bush.
By its very nature as the pinon turns to move the rack in and out in a linear motion, against the resistance of the clutch springs, the rack teeth try to climb over the pinion teeth putting a sideways pressure at 90deg to the pinion and therefore wearing the case in an oval shape.
Eventually enough wear can take place so that the rack can get so displaced from its linear path that it can end up with it moving out of mesh. In a worst case scenario, breaking the teeth off either or both the pinon/ rack.
The clutch pull will have gone gradually harder over time as this wear takes place. At this point the clutch cable probably gets changed….
The real problem at this stage is if the teeth have broken off. It can become an absolute nightmare trying to get the cover off, as the rack and pinon won’t separate due to the broken teeth jamming them together.
BMW revised the clutch cover to one with a bush insert, which I’m sure wasn’t done just for the hell of it…Just like the original f650s had. And the bush doesn’t need to self-lubricate, it runs in the same oil as the rest of the engine/gearbox.
There are plenty of webpages devoted to this problem. If you haven’t had a problem you have either been lucky or maybe you have one of the later bushed covers fitted to your bike.
Personally I have seen them shot at 20,000 & 31,000miles and both covers were jammed up solid when trying to remove them. I bushed the first one and bought a new (bushed) cover for the second.
So to balance your myth statement and considering I only know of these 3, including your bike, it makes it a 2 out of 3 fail rate in my limited experience.
Regards

Mine failed around 5k miles. Took 2 sets of wrecked shafts before i realised the problem (£180 at the time). When it goes wrong and jams up there isn't a subtle way of getting it all apart :blast
 
Already got the loncin cover, bought ages ago and would like to use it. Have I got it right that the bushing needs to be 14.05-10 internal for the push rod?

If youve got a Loncin cover then it is already bushed


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Interesting read that...cheers deano.
 
Doh, yep can confirm the loncin cover has a steel bush, put a magnet on it. So just need roller bearings, gasket and seals......jobs a good un. Touch wood.
 
Hi. Can anyone post a link to what I need for my 2007 to prevent failure.
Tried links above. Prefer uk or Europe supplier.
Thank you
 
Hi. Can anyone post a link to what I need for my 2007 to prevent failure.
Tried links above. Prefer uk or Europe supplier.
Thank you

CLUTCH HOUSING COVER 11 14 7 700 331
GASKET 11 14 7 700 194
NEEDLE SLEEVE BEARING 21 21 7 701 501
NEEDLE SLEEVE BEARING 21 21 7 700 120
SHAFT SEAL 21 21 7 700 173

If you want to 100% sort it I normally change the shaft as well :

OPERATING SHAFT 21 21 7 700 306
CIRCLIP 21 21 2 343 258

All parts direct from a BMW Dealer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
CLUTCH HOUSING COVER 11 14 7 700 331
GASKET 11 14 7 700 194
NEEDLE SLEEVE BEARING 21 21 7 701 501
NEEDLE SLEEVE BEARING 21 21 7 700 120
SHAFT SEAL 21 21 7 700 173

If you want to 100% sort it I normally change the shaft as well :

OPERATING SHAFT 21 21 7 700 306
CIRCLIP 21 21 2 343 258

All parts direct from a BMW Dealer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thankyou.
Was not sure bmw uk could supply.
Will make some caĺls
 


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