waitee
Registered user
Hi there, I thought id do this little write up as I couldn't find the info my self when researching.
My bike is a 2006 R1200GS with the first gen ABS unit, but should be the same for all R1200 bikes, maybe others to.
Job is easy:
1. Fix the plumbing: by this I mean remove the hoses going to the ABS unit and run a direct hoses from each MC (master cylinder) to the corresponding Caliper(s). For the rear I just opted to get a new braided hose that runs straight from the MC to the calliper, that way I could remove all the hardlines. For the front, again I used a new braided line from the MC to the splitter in the fork clamp. New braided lines are cheap on ebay £30 each approx.
(some people run a a loop of hardline at the front where the lines join next to the frame, and similar for the rear, I think it looks neater and its cheaper just to fit new hoses)
2. Bleed your new brakes.
Now for the other bits which I couldn't find any info on.
3. You can completely remove the ABS unit from the bike, its big and heavy and sits under the tank, do this by disconnecting the electrics from it and removing the rest. Reconnect the electronics to the bike, its a small circuit board needed for the speedo to work.
I bought I blanking plate from MOTOWORKS which was £30 and worked great. So you'll be left with what looks like a small ECU which you can secure in place however you see it, I used a couple zip ties.
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/abs-ecu-cover-ela50965-2.html
4. You can also remove the front wheel speed sensor, and front wheel ABS ring, (replace with correct washers) I did this to tidy up the bikes look. The speedo works from the rear wheel, so front ABS hardware is no longer required.
washers, you should have two between each disk and the wheel, (should be two on one side and one and abs ring on the other before the removal) https://www.motorworks.co.uk/inner-disc-mount-washers-bra97387-2.html
5. Final step, remove the speedo unit from the headlight, 3 c clips and a plug. remove screws from the rear to split the unit in two. now you can either use black electrical tape to tape up the green/amber/red triangle light, cut neatly to fit over the light square (you'll see what I mean when its open infant of you, once refitted its impossible to tell its there, and there are no more warnings on the dash. you may be a able to code this out of the bike, but this is the easy DI guide.
Enjoy, you now have no ABS and have removed allot of clutter from the bike to.
A short note regarding my experience with upgrading to LED lights.
Headlight unit from Aliexpress, great and easy to fit, with no LAMP warning on the dash.
Indicators BMW modern LED ones, not original, again no LAMP errors.
Rear was a bit more of a pain, again aftermarket LED unit, looks great, but was throwing LAMPR code. Solved by fitting two resistors between ground and each live. You can buy a cheap ready made cable here:
https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...ops/10207048/Products/PB-207-015&Locale=en_GB
I now have no lights and no error messages with removing ABS or upgrading lights.
My bike is a 2006 R1200GS with the first gen ABS unit, but should be the same for all R1200 bikes, maybe others to.
Job is easy:
1. Fix the plumbing: by this I mean remove the hoses going to the ABS unit and run a direct hoses from each MC (master cylinder) to the corresponding Caliper(s). For the rear I just opted to get a new braided hose that runs straight from the MC to the calliper, that way I could remove all the hardlines. For the front, again I used a new braided line from the MC to the splitter in the fork clamp. New braided lines are cheap on ebay £30 each approx.
(some people run a a loop of hardline at the front where the lines join next to the frame, and similar for the rear, I think it looks neater and its cheaper just to fit new hoses)
2. Bleed your new brakes.
Now for the other bits which I couldn't find any info on.
3. You can completely remove the ABS unit from the bike, its big and heavy and sits under the tank, do this by disconnecting the electrics from it and removing the rest. Reconnect the electronics to the bike, its a small circuit board needed for the speedo to work.
I bought I blanking plate from MOTOWORKS which was £30 and worked great. So you'll be left with what looks like a small ECU which you can secure in place however you see it, I used a couple zip ties.
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/abs-ecu-cover-ela50965-2.html
4. You can also remove the front wheel speed sensor, and front wheel ABS ring, (replace with correct washers) I did this to tidy up the bikes look. The speedo works from the rear wheel, so front ABS hardware is no longer required.
washers, you should have two between each disk and the wheel, (should be two on one side and one and abs ring on the other before the removal) https://www.motorworks.co.uk/inner-disc-mount-washers-bra97387-2.html
5. Final step, remove the speedo unit from the headlight, 3 c clips and a plug. remove screws from the rear to split the unit in two. now you can either use black electrical tape to tape up the green/amber/red triangle light, cut neatly to fit over the light square (you'll see what I mean when its open infant of you, once refitted its impossible to tell its there, and there are no more warnings on the dash. you may be a able to code this out of the bike, but this is the easy DI guide.
Enjoy, you now have no ABS and have removed allot of clutter from the bike to.
A short note regarding my experience with upgrading to LED lights.
Headlight unit from Aliexpress, great and easy to fit, with no LAMP warning on the dash.
Indicators BMW modern LED ones, not original, again no LAMP errors.
Rear was a bit more of a pain, again aftermarket LED unit, looks great, but was throwing LAMPR code. Solved by fitting two resistors between ground and each live. You can buy a cheap ready made cable here:
https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...ops/10207048/Products/PB-207-015&Locale=en_GB
I now have no lights and no error messages with removing ABS or upgrading lights.
