Around Sri Lanka on a Royal Enfield 350 Classic

DevonAl · Mar 20, 2023

We first travelled around Sri Lanka in March 2020, when we left the UK on March 5th, the news reported a few Covid cases in Italy but no hint of the forthcoming carnage no travel warnings etc, so off we went and toured around on a Honda FMX 650 and really enjoyed it until Covid locked the Island down 4 days before we were due to fly home, fortunately we flew home on our scheduled flight on the UK’s lockdown day so not the best of ending to what was a great trip, and we said we would go back sometime, with the Covid after effects and the economic/political issues that Sri Lanka are experiencing we didn’t really consider going back this year and we’re planning on renting a bike again in Thailand or Vietnam, I then read MartinK’s trip report about his tuktuk trip around Sri Lanka and after exchanging a couple of messages with Martin we decided to book Sri Lanka.
My wife found the FMX seat a bit harsh so this time I hired the Enfield from Ceylon Adventure tours, very easy to deal with and he sorts all the local permit for you, he supplies helmets and small panniers but not jackets, we bought our own out with us along with a set of throw over panniers.

The bike. 350 Classic, just over 57000 km.
First day was from Negombo to Kandy which is on the tourist trail, busy town high up on the edge of the Knuckles Hills and tea plantations so a bit cooler. Just over 100km, google maps said 3 hrs.
Negombo beach first evening, a hint of things to come, it is not monsoon season!

Robbo1200ADV · Mar 20, 2023

Nice . Great little bike to do a trip like that on . How much is bike hire there ? Cheers

DevonAl · Mar 20, 2023

Kandy.

The road from Negombo to Kandy is pretty much built up a lot of the way so very busy and slow, its about 1800 mts high so much cooler and is clos to the Knuckles range which is one of the tea areas and the early colonials had their summer homes up there, Kandy is the home of the Temple to the sacred tooth relic which overlooks the lake and other cultural events.
On our second day we went up into the knuckles for a ride round the villages and plantations, google maps had a hissy fit leaving us “lost” for a while until it figured out where we were, on the way back to Kandy the heavens opened again and riding through 3-4 inches of water in town.

Pics of Kandy and the Knuckles.

DevonAl · Mar 20, 2023

Kandy.

More.

DevonAl · Mar 20, 2023

Robbo1200ADV said:
Nice . Great little bike to do a trip like that on . How much is bike hire there ? Cheers

It’s a bit underpowered compared to a 1200R LC but only doing between 30-50 mph tops so not too bad, bike for 12 days, helmets and local permits just under $500 US + $200 US in cash for refundable deposit, just send a copy of passport, IDP, Uk licence and a photo for permit when you book, airport pick up included if you need it, We used Ceylon Adventure tours to hire this time to get the Enfield and Sha Lanka last time for the FMX, if I was going solo I would go for the FMX or similar.

Al.

MartinK · Mar 20, 2023

Ooooh I am looking forwards to this! Good on you for organising this and getting going! Pictures look fab :beerjug:

DevonAl · Mar 20, 2023

Kany to Trincomalee

Travelled from Kandy to Trincomalee via Sigiriya(Lion Rock) fortress.
About 200 IM’s including the detour to Sigiriya, along day riding, around 5 hrs.
First part up to Sigiriya is built up most of the way with shacks selling anything from drinks to building materials so was pretty slow, from Sigiriya up to Trincomalee which is a large port with beach hotels to the North the road is a lot more open with less traffic and managed to hit 60 mph in places and did the trip in around 6 hrs with 3 stops.
The picture of Sigiriya village with the cows wandering up the street was very busy with tourists in 2020, this time there was hardly anybody about and the businesses are still struggling. Again the rain caught up with us and we had a massive lightning storm. The blurry tree shot is because it’s pissing and it’s lighting

DevonAl · Mar 20, 2023

I hate when photos do that….help.

Edit. During the storm last night we had a leak in the roof, we were reading & the noise of the storm meant we didn’t hear it dripping onto the polished concrete floor, my wife slipped in the puddle and fell against the bed hitting her ribs on the frame, she was in a lot of pain so the manager called the local Doc who examined her and said she needed further checks at the hospital in Trincomalee, about 15-20 mins away, the manager arranged a taxi and came with us to the hospital and smoothed the way, the place was deserted and Sue was seen, Xrayed and 2 cracked ribs were found and she was admitted for Observation within the hour great, so left her there overnight, luckily we had left water as it was tap water or nothing.
This morning they said they wanted to keep her in for another day to do more X-rays, she is a nurse and UK advice is if Sats and breathing is ok no X-rays are needed so she objected and eventually they discharged her against medical advice!
Last night the hospital was deserted, today all manner of humanity was there, it was heaving, after seeing the state of the place in the daylight I will never complain about the NHS again. There was no fee for the treatment and we left, she is now crashed out sleeping it off.
She seems to be able to move without too much discomfort so will have to see if she can get comfortable on the bike tomorrow or we may have to bin the bike and go back nearer the airport and find a beachfront hotel for a week and a bit and get her a car for the trip back.

Al.

Steptoe · Mar 21, 2023

Did you go up Sigiriya ? .. went to Trincomalee and Nilaveli beach back in 2001, when the civil was going on, it was all out of bounds to tourists but managed to get their for a couple of days, been Sri Lanka more than 10 times for 4-6 weeks each time, speak a bit of Sinhalese and travelled all around the Island, even had my own Tuc Tuc I used ride around on in Kalutara

… my son on top of Sigiriya

MartinK · Mar 21, 2023

I hope Mrs DevonAl is OK? Watching with enthusiasm!!!

Steptoe - I was there back at Christmas New Year and missed Sigiriya, sadly - an excuse to return maybe

DevonAl · Mar 21, 2023

Steptoe, We went to Sigiriya last time and climbed it, this time just stopped for lunch, very quiet tourist wise.
Back on the road again, wife has gritted her teeth and we have carried on, once she is on the bike she is ok as long as I don’t hit too many holes!!
We rode down from Trincomalee down to Passikudah beach, 110km and nearly 3 hrs with a breakfast stop, we stopped at a roadside cafe run by the Army, had some Roti and other savoury stuff, a guy having a coffee helped us ordering, turned out he was a Brigadier at the base and we had a chat about the Sri Lankan economy & forthcoming elections etc and he wanted to know about our trip.
The road down was pretty good most of the way with the usual really rough bits every so often which wasn’t too good on the ribs, it was wetlands either side of the road most of the way and lots of cattle and goats plus the usual dogs all over the road!
Only intended to have a short day to see how the ribs held up we had a look at a few hotels and picked this one. The Calm Resort & Spa, £40 inc Breakfast.

Lord Snooty · Mar 21, 2023

Sorry to hear of wifey's mishap, cracked ribs are so uncomfortable and I think she will struggle to be back on the bike, especially if the roads are in poor condition. Hope it doesn't spoil your trip and thanks for sharing.

Orinoco · Mar 21, 2023

Enjoying the trip report and sorry to hear about your wife. Well done her for carrying on with the bike trip, brave lady. Keep the photos coming

The Other PaulG · Mar 21, 2023

+1 super brave. Like many, probably, I've had cracked ribs and the back of a motorbike on rough roads would not be my ideal spot! Good for her.

Robbo1200ADV · Mar 21, 2023

sorry to hear re the wifes Ribs . See if you can get some anti inflamatory Meds like Naproxen out there , The local pharmacy will sell them without a prescription . Taker care and thanks for posting

DevonAl · Mar 21, 2023

She actually feels ok on the bike, she was given a mixture of pain relief drugs when she left the hospital and I am trying my best to dodge the worst bits on the roads but on the whole the roads are not too bad, she is more annoyed that it hurts to swim!, had a walk along the beach tonight to eat at a local restaurant rather than give the money to a hotel chain and was treated to a great sunset, and a beach toy stall is the same everywhere.

Al.

DevonAl · Mar 22, 2023

With Sue dosed up on pain relief we set off to Arugam Bay today, about 160 km with a slight detour through Batticaloa to look at the lighthouse and Lagoon, Arugam Bay is a surf resort but August is peak season so is very quiet, road was really good and not too busy outside of the towns, again lots of wetlands so plenty of cows, tractors and goats to avoid, especially the goats trying to steal the grain drying on the side of the road.
Seems to be a large military presence on this coast as we have past 7-8 bases in 2 days riding, also much more rural between the towns and seems poorer, many more people on cycles and the scooters/bikes seem to be older models than the tourist towns and Colombo. The trip took 4 hours with a stop at a “restaurant “ that turned out to be a drinking den, the food was a few savoury snacks and shots of Arrak, the local rum, definitely a lot more drinking than eating happening on a Wednesday lunchtime!!
Met up with 4 guys from Dubai in the hotel yesterday, they are doing a cannonball style race in tuktuks, its run by a company called Adventurists and there are over a hundred people in 50 tuktuks at present racing round the Island!!

DevonAl · Mar 22, 2023

More photos. Arugam Bay, as you can see it’s definitely not surfs up!, we are having a couple of nights here before heading to Ella in the tea region.

Steptoe · Mar 22, 2023

Try and dined couple nights in the Kandalama Hotel, built into the rocks overlooking the jungle and a lake/watering hole. The showers in the rooms have glass walls so you can watch the elephants and various animals visiting for water while you have an early morning shower… at night/evening bats fly along the hotel corridors. The infinity pool also overlooks the watering hole

steve hughes · Mar 22, 2023

Some real food for thought here Al, thanks for posting. Lastly I hope your wife manages the meds and can enjoy the balance of the trip.

Around Sri Lanka on a Royal Enfield 350 Classic

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

What a waste.

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Still searching

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

What a waste.

Well-known member

Similar threads