Suspension setup - R1200GS

IanJ

Guest
Hi guys,

I've just taken ownership of a 54 plate 1200GS and love it to bits.

I have a question regarding setting up the suspension. Front and rear units are only adjustable for preload - correct? I'm around the 16 stone mark so the salesman recommended I put the rear preload close to maximum. Does that sound correct? I've currently got it at 5 full turns out. Should I also adjust the front accordingly?

I'm obviously still getting used to the bike, but I don't find the handling fills me with confidence in the bends.

Any suggestions gratefully received.

- Ian
 
I'm only 12 stone and I've got the rear preload set almost to maximum. That does a number of things:

1 It steepens the steering head angle and makes the bike turn faster. This is a good thing.

2 It puts more weight over the front wheel, thereby increasing the amount of feel that you get from the front end. In corners, this is an extremely good thing.

3 Again, by placing more weight over the front wheel, it actually makes the bike more stable in a straight line. This is at odds with what you'd expect from #1 but it works.

It's a quick 'n' dirty fix and doesn't give the desired amount of sag at the rear but, again, it works, albeit at the cost of a rather hard and sometimes jarring ride.

There is also a rebound damping adjustment screw on the bottom of the shock. I'd suggest dialling in a bit more on that. Experiment until you find a setting that suits you.

As for the front end, I currently have that set at the second notch, as it was delivered. I have contemplated going down to the first notch and taking some preload off the rear to match. Perhaps when I find a C spanner that fits... :rolleyes: However, I'd imagine that, at your weight, the second or third notch would be the way to go.

HTH
 
Set the front shock 2 notches up from soft. Set rear damper screw to 1/2 to 3/4 turns out from fully in (max). Adjust pre-load to suit. 15 stone featherweight running pre-load at about half. Works for me, bit firm but turns in a dream and really stable on fast bumpy roads. :)
 
The 1200 on standard settings seemed harsh, so much fiddling with the rear damping was had. Preload was set at its highest setting and after many (small) adjustments with the little rebound damping scew the rear was eventually sorted.

The problem then was the front! The front on its standard 3rd position setting seemed to have the bike crashing in to bumps rather than soaking them up. I have since moved it down to the 2nd position which has improved the whole feel of the bike. The flighty wiggling bars under acceleration feeling has now gone! The bike turns much quicker and generally feels nicer to ride.
 
suspension

having tried various settings [ i am 15 stone] try putting front on lowest setting and rear wind pre load right off , then turn in one turn , , screw damping screw all the way in and then screw out one and half turns, i have found this softens suspension but performs perfect, if two up put pre load up a couple of turns , give it a try and good luck
 
suspension

i am 15 stone and i found the following settings are nearly perfect , front unit on softest setting , rear screw pre load all the way out and turn one full turn in, screw damper screw all the way in and back out one and half turns out , this sounds to soft but give it a try and it handles spot on, if loaded up screw pre load in a couple of turns
 
I personally think that suspension settings on the GS is no different to any other bike, it's all a matter of personal taste.

As such it ends up a matter of trial and error to find a setting which suits you.

I've only twiddled with the rear pre load and damping as yet, I'm a fat bugger and find it's suited to my needs at about 1/2 way out on the pre load, I wind it up a touch when carrying a pillion. I find this gives quite a comfortable ride whilst not affecting handling too much. I'll have a twiddle with the front suspension when I get the time, it still feels a little firm at the moment.

Andy T
 
Eastriding2002 said:
I personally think that suspension settings on the GS is no different to any other bike, it's all a matter of personal taste.

As such it ends up a matter of trial and error to find a setting which suits you.

I've only twiddled with the rear pre load and damping as yet, I'm a fat bugger and find it's suited to my needs at about 1/2 way out on the pre load, I wind it up a touch when carrying a pillion. I find this gives quite a comfortable ride whilst not affecting handling too much. I'll have a twiddle with the front suspension when I get the time, it still feels a little firm at the moment.

Andy T
Click to expand...

How do you survive if there is a bump in the road in the middle of turn? With two persons and luggage I use MAX preload in the back and notch 3 out of 6 in the front.

best wishes
/Rune
 
runeo said:
How do you survive if there is a bump in the road in the middle of turn? With two persons and luggage I use MAX preload in the back and notch 3 out of 6 in the front.

best wishes
/Rune
Click to expand...


Well I guess I'm either a riding god or lucky. Then again it could be that I don't ride the GS like a GP bike and race around on the rev limiter on it. Again, I don't ride at 10/10ths so likely as not I'd see the bump anyway, especially if two up.
I've found the GS extremely forgiving and capable whenever I've ridden it.
 
So the pre load on the rear knob adjuster is wound in, (clockwise) the heavier the rider/pillion?
 
as the name suggests it squashes the spring a bit (clockwise is more squashed) the idea is an attempts to regain ride height - the amount of force (your weight / vehicle load / how hard you hit a bump) is what determines how much the spring will really defect....

so if you like it stiff and or with your bike gear / luggage / passengers it exceeds 75kg you need to buy a new spring - if you want to control that spring you then need damping adjustment

if you have one damping screw as you get with or without ESA at the back and or nothing without ESA on the front - you have budget junk dampers that need to visit the skip ASAP or get a rebuild by competent bod here and accept a level of compromise
 
I’d like to know who the F is 75kg fully geared with luggage!! Jesus ze Germans didn’t allow for any well built lads then!
 
its a typical ave wt for bikers in use for years - people used to be smaller and or Japanese

very little of the world was designed to cope with grown ups
 
Having had ESA and non ESA TCs I can say without hesitation that I prefer non ESA. At 88kg in full kit the ESA setting are predetermined to a weight somewhat off mine and can’t be tuned. With non ESA I can get a ride and handling that suits my weight and riding. Yes, it takes 15 seconds longer than ESA to adjust for pillion/luggage but feel it worth the investment of time!!

I think to front stock particularly with a basic preload adjustment can get a better ride than ESA. However, having had Wilbers before on a single cam GS, nothing beats a correctly sprung quality shock. My next move will probably get my shocks to Denzo over winter for a refresh and re spring.

 
Having had 2 previous GSA's and a GS without ESA, I have to say I like the Electronic System.
Granted it's been Rebuilt and Upgraded by Luke, but I like the convenience of being able to alter Rebound Damping on the fly, especially given the vast selection of Road Surfaces we have to endure nowadays.
Some of our Fenland Roads are more like a Tarmac Roller Coaster or Washboard than anything else, and Comfort Mode copes admirably with them.....
 
I agree Billy, I like the ESA set up and use mine the same way - normal most of the time and comfort for rubbish road surfaces.

I did mess about once and managed to select three mountains off road or some such setting - this just resulted in me not being able to touch the floor!
 
My previous bike, 2011 R1200GS twin cam TB with ESA was great, compliant, comfortable and controlled. A friend has just bought a 2012 model, virtually identical to my TB and I find it harsh. I checked the ESA settings and it was set to what I used to set mine too but the ride is definitely different. Both have WP ESA. I can’t understand why his would feel so different with exactly the same set up.
 
tyre type

tyre pressures

spoke vs cast wheels

load setting

sport
 
tspivey said:
I can’t understand why his would feel so different with exactly the same set up.
Click to expand...

Most likely just worn and needs rebuild. Possibly a calibration with a GS911 could improve.

My 2008 hexhead is what I would call harsh ATM, improves a bit with heavy load and when it warms up. I am only getting some damping with big mountains SOFT, any other setting is just hard. I need a rebuild both ends.
 
My 2010 is a bit harsh going over bumps in the road, some bits where the surface has been repaired are like going over a washboard. Funny enough I have mine set to big mountains and soft but playing about the other day I think normal and hard seem to give a softer ride than soft!
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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