Time to travel again...

Fuel prices in the US vary considerably, from State to State, we saw $3.03 in Missouri this week. We have used a couple of Iron skillets, the first in the outskirts of Vegas was great, the second was rubbish.

Great trip report, thanks

I concur, great RR, thank you for taking the time.
I can't believe how expensive America has got. I can get a fully loaded omelette and chips with half a litre of very nice wine in Crete for less than you were paying for just a basic omelette in The States.

Monday 19th September 2022

I sleep through to 0900, without any help from alcohol (or anything else ). I wake to the luxury of not having to leave by 1100, which gets old after a while, and potter about getting myself sorted out a bit. Jorge is at work and has taken Aster...



...the World's most camera-aware dog, with him...



First things first - a decent cup of coffee from Jorge's Nespresso machine (a capsule called Buenos Aires Lungo - very nice, not sure if it's available in the UK)...



I set my office up on the deck, where my riding jacket, having been washed overnight, is currently drip-drying...



Yesterday evening Jorge asked what I wanted to eat, and whether I wanted to go out somewhere.



We were both very tired (Jorge had just got back from the Pacific Coast where he'd been staying with his neighbour Tom and a couple of friends fly-fishing). I asked if he felt up to cooking and he said "Of course"...



He made a spicy marinade, which he let the chicken steep in for 30 minutes or so, whipped up one of his fantastic salad dressings and voila...



The cheese atop the corn is Cotija - a Mexican hard cheese - also present is a chili and lime mix...

Delicious.

We clear up, then watch episodes three and four of House of the Dragon on TV. Before the start of episode five, I could feel myself nodding off and said good night...

So - I have just put the first load of washing into Jorge's washing machine. When it's out of the dryer, I shall start folding things and packing them logically into my checked bag. Later this afternoon I will check in for tomorrow's flight online (it has a very civilised take-off time of 1855, arriving in LHR at noonish the day after).

I think I'm going to take my helmet apart next; wash the liner and clean 2000+ miles of bugs off it.

But perhaps another coffee first...

Just picked up a text from Jorge telling me that there was a crash at Reno Air Races on the final day - a jet (from the video I think it was an Albatross) crashed during a race; the pilot was killed instantly...

They stopped the races following the crash.

Damn...

EDIT - It was apparently an L29 Delphín...

Eewww...



It's soon stripped down (with the aid of a one cent coin) into its component parts. I put the liners into the washing machine and take the helmet, peak and visor to the sink and wash them with dish soap, before drying them off and reassembling them...



Ta-da!

After I refit the liners, it can take its place on "Mike's shelf" in Jorge's gear cupboard...

The sun has come out, so I decide it's time to encourage my riding jacket to dry (as it is going to be in my checked bag tomorrow).



...and pop the body armour back into the shoulders and elbows...

Great report and great detail.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to post up.

Certainly food for thought for US touring.

dr nosh said:

Great report and great detail.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to post up.

Certainly food for thought for US touring.

Click to expand...

Glad you enjoyed it Doc. I’ll probably put an “after action” report together when I get home, as it may be of some use to anyone considering a similar trip.

One piece of advice will be - it’s going to cost you a lot more than it used to…

Tuesday 20th September 2022

Jorge finishes work and gets home, with Aster, at about 1530.

I report that all the full power trials on his laundry have been completed successfully - in fact I'm almost fully packed, except for overnight stuff (not quite the case - more later ).

Jorge sorts himself out and Aster does important Aster stuff, both in the garden and the house.

I propose taking out Jorge for dinner and a beer at one of my favourite eating spots in Portland from previous visits - the Food Carts at Beaverton.



Aster gets relegated to guard dog duties (blimey - can that dog pout, or what?), and Jorge and I take the Discovery over towards where he used to live when we first met (18 years ago, I've suddenly realised ).

The place is obviously still popular, but we eventually find somewhere to park...



Regular readers may remember this place...



...it's basically a large collection of picnic tables surrounded by food carts providing a huge variety of foods from different parts of the world. There's also a bar (natch)...



It's full of couples and families enjoying the lovely evening - and ingesting far too much food...



The problem, of course, is choice...



...there's just so much of it...



Just when you think - yep, I could try that...



...something else catches your eye...

I - predictably - order nachos, Jorge talking to the chef in Spanish to make sure I get lots of everything...

Jorge orders Gua Bao (Pork Belly Buns) from the Taiwanese cart, and we wander over to get a beer from the bar...



Jorge has a Radler and I have a Pfriem (on the right), which is a locally brewed pilsner with a refreshingly citrus tang...



Jorge collects his Gua Bao - that's rice bread...



I notice this lady wearing a BMW Savannah jacket, which has seen some life and tell her it looks cool. This way we get to meet John and Honey, motorcyclists of long standing from the Portland area. He now has an electric motorcycle and a Husqvarna dirt bike - nice choice. We chat for a few minutes - and then I need to collect my Nachos...



...which Jorge expresses disappointment with, though they were very tasty and the chorizo was very spicy...

Jorge thinks the place has jacked its prices up and - at the same time - dropped its quality. We discuss that this is what I have found during this trip - there's a lot more financial, well - desperation - in post-Covid USA...

I mean, my nachos had Cheez-Whiz on them, for goodness sake...



It's a glorious evening - and I've heard from my mate Graham that he had to turn his heating on in the UK earlier this week. This likely means everyone else turned theirs on a week earlier (Hi Graham ). I shall miss this weather - Jorge says it's the best time of year to visit the Pacific North West...

As I type this from my office today...



...in the calm quiet of a Tuesday morning, I look up from my chair...



...and watch the branches of the trees moving in the light breeze.

Anyway - back to last night. Jorge disappears for a minute and comes back with a snack for us to share...



These are battered, deep-fried macaroni cheese balls, in a cheese sauce...

They are, of course, delicious, like everything we've eaten and drunk this evening...

We drive back to Jorge's house, where Aster still isn't sure she's going to forgive us, and Jorge says "Fancy an edible?" - sure - why not finish an evening with wanton drug-taking...

I let the 'gummy' slowly dissolve in my mouth as Jorge and I watch the latest House of the Dragon, then switch to catch up with Rings of Power on Amazon. This is a different type of cannabis; you may remember the first one I took didn't induce drowsiness (though I slept like a log afterwards) - this one is more like the whole enchilada - it should mean I sleep well.

Well, this time, I could feel a difference. Mostly just a general feeling of contentment and goodwill towards the world, and an interesting amount of introspection, with the same sort of sense of detachment as I had last time...

Soon, the night of drinking and debauched drug taking comes to an end, and I climb the stairs to my room. I go out like a light and wake just after 0900 this morning...

After a shower, I get dressed and see that Jorge has left his luggage scales out for me...



I weigh my vast orange suitcase...



58lbs - oops...

The maximum weight for checked baggage on my flight is 51lbs. No problem, I'll transfer some stuff to my cabin bag, which has very little but my laptop, iPad and charging cables in it at the moment...

Jorge texts me to say that he's mailed the CamelBak and battery charger, that Roger (ChipSeal) was kind enough to lend me, back to him. I go on Amazon and send him a new bite-valve for the CamelBak...

I recheck my flight and it is now scheduled to depart on time (1855) - so they've obviously managed to sort out whatever snarl-up was delaying it on the schedule yesterday.

Time for another coffee I think...

Thanks Mike, a Great read all the way through, safe flight home ....

Wednesday 21st September 2022

I say farewell to the Adv, safely ensconced in Jorge's garage...



Jorge and I set off for PDX just after 1500. Traffic is terrible, and I marvel at Jorge’s ability to change routes on Waze, whilst setting up a meeting to head-hunt a British chap to work for the start-up he’s part of

Eventually a meeting is arranged for Friday, and Jorge hangs up.

It’s still a beautiful day in Portland, although we are passing through areas that have vast numbers of homeless people living rough. I can’t bring myself to photograph them, so here’s a picture of a bridge instead…



Although homelessness can be caused by substance-abuse and any number of preventable reasons, many of these people have just been unlucky. The flip-side of the American Dream is a nightmare.
I recently read that something like 70% of Americans are two pay-cheques away from this end…

We arrive at PDX departures at about 1550. Jorge avoids putting his back out whilst unloading my giant suitcase, and I say my farewells, and thanks for a great visit, and we both pledge it won’t be three years until our next meeting. He says he’s going to ride the Adv and see what I’ve fucked up on it.

Good time to be leaving the country…

I roll my luggage into the terminal, and head for the British Airways check-in desk. I queue for about 20 minutes to check my bag in - a far cry from LHR, where I just stuck the label on and loaded it onto the unstaffed conveyor belt. In fact, it makes me wonder why they bother letting you check in online...



As soon as I’ve dumped my bag, at one end of the concourse, I’m directed to Security (TSA) at the far end…

Arriving at the TSA checkpoint, I dump everything required into several trays, then ask the chap whether I need to remove my shoes. “How old are you?” He asks. Apparently, if you’re over 75, you don’t need to remove them. I take my shoes off, in wonder that anything remains that I’m too young for…

Safely through TSA, I follow the signs for Gate D-14. I stop on the way to buy some overpriced souvenirs - of course D-14 is the furthest gate…



One of my favourite podcasts, 99% Invisible, did an episode on the design of the carpet in PDX...



This chap looked after my bag whilst I went for a wazz. Quiet fellow...

I sit down and waste time, as you are wont to do when arriving early at a departure gate. I connect my iPhone to a power bank I’ve brought for that purpose, and banter by text with Jorge. I also track my checked bag (I have an Air Tag in it) as it moves through the luggage routing system...



We are approaching boarding time, when it becomes clear that things are going a little awry. The cabin crew for our flight are waiting by the (closed) entrance to the air bridge, but not going down to the aircraft.

We get a tannoy saying that there’s a fault with the air bridge and that the maintenance crew are working on it. One of the passengers near me said that, apparently, the aircraft that’s arrived is a different configuration from that which they were expecting…

Eventually, about 40 minutes after the scheduled departure time, we board. I walk all the way down to my H35 aisle seat in Economy, and strap in. The push-back started before some of us had got to our seats - they are clearly keen to get airborne…

We take off at about 1940, and climb into the now dark sky.

Just after the seatbelt sign was switched off, the lovely Kaye, one of the cabin crew, said “Mr Oughton? Sorry, meant to pick you up at boarding, but got distracted - can you bring your bag and come forward with me please?”

Huzzah!

The couple next to me were clearly torn between being pleased at not having the Hulk sitting next to them any longer, and being annoyed at someone other than them getting an upgrade…

I move forward to the front of the Business Class cabin and am settled into my very comfortable seat. I owe someone SO much beer for this…



I’m brought a splendid G&T - strike that - TWO splendid G&Ts and the order dinner from the menu.



Everything was beautifully presented, hot and tasty



I watch some rubbish on TV, then start drafting my ride report. Once again, there’s no in-flight Wi-Fi, so I just use Notes on my iPad.

About two hours into the flight, the Captain, Simon Davies, drops by and says hello. I thank him profusely for sorting out the upgrade, and he says it’s a pleasure. He asks about my trip, and we have a good natter for 15 minutes or so, before it’s time for him to return to the sharp end and do Captain stuff. What a nice chap.

So, two G&Ts down. Should I watch a film, or set the bed up and try to get some sleep? Decisions, decisions…

Well, I watch Top Gun Maverick - great fun...

I set up the bed and try to get some sleep, but don't really manage to.



Pretty soon, it's time to order breakfast...



You were never in any doubt about what I would order, were you?

Pretty soon we're at top of descent into LHR, landing at 1240, having made up a little time en route. Once again, we use air stairs and are moved to the Terminal by bus. After going through the automated Passport Control, which worked seamlessly, I make my way downstairs to Baggage Carousel 4 to await the arrival of my checked bag. And wait. And wait...



Rather worryingly, the last time the Air Tag was 'pinged' was at PDX...

Eventually, an hour after landing, my giant orange suitcase appears. I stack it on my luggage trolley with my cabin bag and make my way through the 'Nothing to Declare' door to Customs. Three or four minutes later, I'm met by Adrian - who's even bought me a coffee for the journey...

After paying £14.50 for just over an hour's parking , we drive out onto the madness that is the M25, and head towards Norfolk. After dropping me off at home, Adrian's then getting two tyres fitted and driving to Cardiff this evening...

We get home in good time - and I thank Adrian before he sets off on his next journey. I open up the house (my housekeeper Sarah has been in and cleaned the place up, and fitted new bedding this week), then drive over to Sarah's daughter Vikki, to collect Marnie...



She's looking really fit and happy - Vikki says she's loved having her, and will be happy to kennel her for me at any time in the future...

I drive home and let Marnie explore the paving I have had done during my holiday...



It's looking a bit dusty and muddy at the moment, but a good rainstorm will have it looking great...



There's also a section out the front of the house, but frankly I can't be arsed to go out and photograph it at the moment...

I make something to eat and ponder opening a bottle of red wine...

Good holiday...

Fantastic story and pictures as always, well done and thanks for sharing.
Lets hope the next one comes sooner

Thanks for the superb and enjoyable report .

Thanks for taking us along Mike, a most enjoyable read

Marnie. How gorgeous?

After-action Report

So, I thought I'd write a few notes down on stuff that has occurred to me during and after this trip.

Regular readers will know that I am an old hand at touring the USA by motorcycle, and have been doing so fairly regularly since 2004...

This trip, however, was different - and it marked a distinct contrast with pre-pandemic USA.

Firstly, the exchange rate I got was around $1.14 per GBP. I have visited the USA when this was $1.99 - so this is pretty close to parity.

Secondly, prices of everything I needed - food, lodging and fuel - had increased vastly. Nearly every meal I had was more than $15 - a huge increase on what I paid in 2019. Similarly, a motel room, even a modest one, would rarely be below $100 per night.
Fuel varied in price, but I often filled up at $7 per gallon. OK, that's not as expensive as UK prices, but it is significantly more than I have paid in the past.

Much of this reflects the inflation happening worldwide at present.

But there's something else. I felt a real sense of financial desperation - in the service staff, the business owners and in general. They are clearly not confident in their financial security, and every penny mean something. I was also hyper-aware of how much tips meant to wait staff, and my go-to tip was 20%.

At the Iron Skillet in Sparks, the two wait staff during the evening were at least ten years older than me. I remember thinking, "Waitressing is a bloody hard job - ladies like these should be putting their feet up, not working until late into the night".

I mistimed my flights because the Reno Air Races have been held in the first week of September forever - and I assumed they would be this year too. Likewise, I should have checked.

Similarly, I had no idea that there were restrictions on riding through Yosemite - requiring a permit, which ideally should be bought 10 days or so in advance. In fairness, Jorge was also unaware of this. Had I checked, I could have got a permit soon after I arrived, but whether I would have been able to correctly judge what day it would be for, given the various shenanigans with the bike, and local entomology's effect on my face, makes it a moot point.

The thing, I think, to draw from this, is that Pre-Covid USA is a different country from endemic Covid USA. All sorts of things have changed - and even experienced travellers would do well to double-check stuff that normally they could take for granted (Yosemite, for instance).

Much mileage has been made about the mechanical snags I had with the bike - especially on UKGSer. This is misplaced concern. If I had my own bike in the USA and these same problems turned up, then I'd cope and get on with it, very much as I did on this trip. I've had a starter failure on my own bike and rectified it - similarly I had a side stand problem and managed to cope with that quite successfully.

To carp about "Huh, this 'free' bike isn't such a bargain" is to entirely miss the point of what is happening here. Jorge - a friend of mine for 18 years - has generously offered his bike to me to use on pretty much every occasion I've asked.

How many people would you do that for?

If it needs some running maintenance - so be it - it's 20 bloody years old. I usually make some gesture (a GPS, new tyres, service etc) as a 'thanks' for Jorge's largesse, but this is not expected and always appreciated.

So, this holiday cost me far more than I had budgeted for. So what? I've not been away for three years, so I had the spare money.

The truth is, though, unless something (exchange rate?) changes, I'm not sure when I will be able to afford to do this type of trip again...

So, if you're planning a trip to the USA, my advice is to double-check everything - even if you think it's really obvious. Oh, and that money you've put by for the trip? It's not nearly enough...

Finally, @Jorge - were we really once this young?

Well said Mike ... well done

Bring on the next

Tommy Gunn said:

Marnie. How gorgeous?

Click to expand...

Completely.

I may, however, be biased…

Nice one Mike.
I don't do airports and airliners, and have no desire to go to America, but I enjoyed seeing it through your camera.

Regarding your comment on the meal prices, apart from the one virtually thrown at you by the surly and ignorant sounding guy, for the prices you paid, you got a hell of a lot more (and better) than you'd have got over here for those prices.

If you didn't use a pot of money that had built up due to covid restrictions, try not to have sleepless nights about the forthcoming credit card bill.

Great report, as always Mike.
California is now VERY expensive.You can’t get breakfast for much less than $30 !
And a beer is often nudging $10….before tip.

But it’s still much cheaper in other states and off the beaten track.

For instance, I was in South Carolina earlier this year, delivering some BMW engines and brek could be had for under $10 and a beer was about $5.

This has been a wonderful read, thanks for the write ups. The USA has been on my want to ride list for as long as I can remember, but I don't think it'll happen anytime soon and I'm not getting younger. So being able to vicariously travel with you has been excellent, thanks you