Back into the Desert...

MikeO

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Dereham, Norfolk, today...
25th May

I miss the desert. The PCH is beautiful, but it’s crowded (comparatively) and expensive (like most of California). I ride down the coast for a while, ending up in the eucalyptus groves at Morro Bay State Park…

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I meet up with Bob, a retired supermarket manager who, at 73, spends a few months of his retirement each year acting as a Camp Ground volunteer – a sort of general helper and liaison between the public and the Park Rangers.

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He’s taking a break with his dog Max, who was originally trained to be a guide dog for the blind, but had to have his tail docked (because it was malformed & he kept crapping on it). The Guide Dogs Association apparently decided that too many people would make a fuss of him, asking his owner what happened to the tail, and so he got expelled…

After a last look at the Pacific…

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I head inland towards Mojave. I’m in arid countryside almost immediately – California is really a desert state with a lush arable coastal strip…

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…I stop for lunch at Tina’s Diner in the oil town of Maricopa. Tina’s from the Philippines and makes a pretty fair chilli-burger and salad.

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I head back on the Mojave road, where there is a stark difference between land that is being irrigated…

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…and that which isn’t…

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I join I58 for a while and suddenly come across a long tail back. It’s legal to filter (lane-split) in California, a fact that I take advantage of, weaving my way through several miles of stationary traffic, before stopping about a quarter of a mile from the source of the hold up, an overturned RV. I stop alongside a couple on a R1150R – it turns out they (I have, of course, forgotten their names :rolleyes: ) are ADVRiders and are on their honeymoon! I open a bottle of Sierra Mist (lemonade) by way of celebration and manage to soak everyone within 10 metres - (note to self – 130 miles of vibration & a 2000ft increase in altitude will probably do this every time). Predictably, as soon as we start chatting & drinking, the CHP get the road clear and we set off. They peel off at the first junction to re-fuel – hopefully I’ll hear from them again, as I gave them one of my cards…

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I’m soon off the Interstate and on the back roads leading through a forest of wind turbines towards Mojave…

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It’s a strange and almost spooky landscape – there are literally thousands of windmills – you can imagine more appearing overnight, like Starbucks…

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Apparently this wind farm produces more power than all the other wind farms in the USA combined…

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I ride down into Mojave. The Airport here is home to dozens of ‘mothballed’ airliners…

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The airport is home to Burt Rutan, an aviation designer and entrepreneur. He financed the start of his company by renting parking spaces for airliners – the climate is perfect for this. Rutan designs and builds radical aircraft – mostly using modern composite materials and often using canard designs. He’s probably best known for designing & building the Voyager – an aircraft which, in December 1986, flew non-stop & un-refuelled around the world…

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I check into a cheap motel for the night and clean lemonade off the mirror, the crashbars, the crankcase, my gloves, my visor…

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