Chain Oilers, Are they any good advice please?

[jefformston]

I had a Cobbra Nemo fitted to my F900 XR and it seemed to work just fine (and a great way to use up any left over gear oil) but after a while I noticed that the applicator pipe was constantly moving away from the chain and sprocket even though I was readjusting it. On one run the chain almost seized and I had to pour oil on it manually. I removed it and have gone back to spray lube.

It's a good system poorly implemented as it needs a more robust oil applicator to ensure a consistent supply to the chain.

I’ve never had a problem with the applicator pipe in the 18,000 miles mine has been on the bike, I have the pipe pointed rearwards and just touching the rear sprocket just above the teeth. Once it was set it’s never neeed adjustment. For the £20 or so it cost it’s been a great addition.

 

[Mzokk]

I’ve used chain oilers on all of my chain drive bikes over the years. The scottoiler v system is fine but you need a vacuum take off an it oils at the same rate irrespective of speed. So more oil than you need if stuck in traffic. I’ve used the tutoro manual (need to remember to close the valve when you stop the bike) and the automatic. The automatic has an internal weight and needle valve and operates as the bike jiggles up and down so does not oil when stationary. It was probably the best oiler I have ever used. The only issue is that the reservoir needs to be installed vertically. I used one on a Kawasaki Z1000sx and mounted the reservoir behind the pillion peg. My current Africa twin has a Scottoiler x system fitted (came with the bike) it’s electrical and can be set at a number of levels. Design is not great however and the reservoir is two piece. Mine leaks a bit

 

[Bounce]

My 1290 had a Scottoiler v system on it when purchased.

I did replace some of the system parts when I bought the bike & it has worked perfectly in my 7 years of ownership.

 

[hatzyian]

This is the setup on my Tracer 7. The tube to the chain was adjusted away from the chain after the pictures were taken.

 

[cookie]

I had a Cobbra Nemo fitted to my F900 XR and it seemed to work just fine (and a great way to use up any left over gear oil) but after a while I noticed that the applicator pipe was constantly moving away from the chain and sprocket even though I was readjusting it. On one run the chain almost seized and I had to pour oil on it manually. I removed it and have gone back to spray lube.

It's a good system poorly implemented as it needs a more robust oil applicator to ensure a consistent supply to the chain.

Your post has reminded me that the Nemo2 on my 1190 is fitted with a Scottoiler dropper resting against the side of the rear sprocket as Scottoiler recommends. I didn't really like the Cobrra suggested method.
The reservoir is mounted on the crash bar as I didn't want it cluttering up the handlebars.

 

[Yarkto]

Syringe, 4 zip ties and a bit of tubing. KISS

 

[Big-G]

FYI I've bought a copy to try and if ok I'll buy the Cobrra and my pal will have the copy and the idea of a quick turn every fill up works for me

 

[jefformston]

FYI I've bought a copy to try and if ok I'll buy the Cobrra and my pal will have the copy and the idea of a quick turn every fill up works for me

Why pay £90 for the Cobrra if the £20 copy works just as well?

 

[Big-G]

Why pay £90 for the Cobrra if the £20 copy works just as well?

Maybe I won't then

 

[Pale Rider]

Just a thought: Has anyone tried using super sticky chain saw oil on one of these, very cheap to buy as well.

 

[wessie]

Just a thought: Has anyone tried using super sticky chain saw oil on one of these, very cheap to buy as well.

https://tutorochainoiler.com/pages/which-oil-should-i-use states,

"Chain Saw Oil, we don't recommend it as it is just too sticky and "glue-like" to flow properly. Importantly some Chainsaw oils are vegetable oil based as well as being hydroscopic which leads to corrosion of the Auto's brass and steel parts (and your chain!). Some of these oils also attack the Auto's internal nitrile seals not to mention the O or X rings in your chain!"

My view is you need an oil that coats the chain but has a bit of fling. This fling takes away crap leaving a clean chain. Any sticky oil like chain saw oil or some from an aerosol can form a crust that becomes a grinding paste if not cleaned off periodically.

 

[cookie]

I agree with Wessie about fling. I've used chainsaw oil neat in the past, but i think it's too gloopy on it's own so now just mix a bit in with some EP90. That's probably not worth bothering with either really, but it's quite satisfying painting it onto my dirt bike chains

 

[jefformston]

My view is these oilers are designed so the oil is flung off, taking the dirt with it the thin coating left keeps corrosion at bay. The inner surface of the rollers are sealed so don’t need lubrication.

Certainly my chain is kept clean & corrosion free using one.

 

[cookie]

I was looking at chain oilers just now and was struck by this advert...

 

[RallyeGS]

OSCO Motorcycle Black + mounting kit + bottle 100 ml oil – OSCO one second chain oiler

www.osco-chainoiler.com

This on my Husky 701 LR - brilliant bit of kit

 

[Nin]

Chain oilers - one of the reasons I hate working on older chain driven bikes. It takes a fecking day to clean all the shit off the bike, then another day to clean the bloody tools.

I really don’t see the point of an oiler for an x-ring chain.

 

[Mr Bean]

My view is these oilers are designed so the oil is flung off, taking the dirt with it the thin coating left keeps corrosion at bay. The inner surface of the rollers are sealed so don’t need lubrication.

Certainly my chain is kept clean & corrosion free using one.

I had a Scottoiler on my Blackbird. Rarely needed to adjust/clean the chain - certainly less than every 6k miles that I was doing annually.

The 'total loss' principle worked well at keeping the chain lubed and clean - rear wheel less so!

Was a bit of a faff to reliably set up though.

 

[cookie]

Chain oilers - one of the reasons I hate working on older chain driven bikes. It takes a fecking day to clean all the shit off the bike, then another day to clean the bloody tools.

I really don’t see the point of an oiler for an x-ring chain.

The Nemo oiler on my 1190 flings almost no oil at all.

Opinions differ on this*, but my opinion is that some lube is good to stop surface rust and keep the O rings supple. Lubing the rollers and their contact with the sprockets can't do any harm either. My lube of choice is gear oil, which you need to apply at fairly short intervals, so an oiler is a good solution.

*From perusing many forum threads on the subject from firmly entrenched points of view from both sides, it would appear that chain life is little affected whether you lube or not.

 

[Nin]

The Nemo oiler on my 1190 flings almost no oil at all.

Opinions differ on this*, but my opinion is that some lube is good to stop surface rust and keep the O rings supple. Lubing the rollers and their contact with the sprockets can't do any harm either. My lube of choice is gear oil, which you need to apply at fairly short intervals, so an oiler is a good solution.

*From perusing many forum threads on the subject from firmly entrenched points of view from both sides, it would appear that chain life is little affected whether you lube or not.

I concur!

They’re not for me, but I have no problem with anyone else using them as it’s none of my business.

 

[wheelriding]

I’ve used a Scottoiler (electronic version) and a PD Oiler. Both were easy to install and set up but the PD oiler was a lot less expensive. They stopped my chains rusting but inside the rear wheel rim needed a periodic degrease to remove crud, this was quick and easy so I didn’t see it as an issue. Solo touring on a bike without a centre stand made a chain oiler a useful investment in my view.