Final Drive Pivot Bolt - Any removal tricks?

Advsplash · Jul 1, 2020

Help/experience needed as I can't find much on google/forums - but apologies if I have missed it, please link!

I was planning on sending my FD to Mike today, but I have one problem - I just can't release the Final Drive pivot bolt.
I've heated it and it turned about 1/4-1/2 turn then nothing more, I also slipped despite taking measures to minimise slipping and so the bolt is slightly rounded but is probably still salvageable.

<a href="https://ibb.co/tKWWbcn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ZXkkhKv/Photo-01-07-2020-10-19-28.jpg" alt="Photo-01-07-2020-10-19-28" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/26rgdL1"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/H2ynqMf/Photo-01-07-2020-10-19-57.jpg" alt="Photo-01-07-2020-10-19-57" border="0"></a>
I'm not too concerned about the pivot sleeves & torx bolt as I have replacements.

Anyone had issues doing this and overcome it? Better way to go about it? I know it's been out before but unsure of what's on the threads etc.

In the meantime, I've called a trusted Indy to come and collect the bike or help onsite to see if he can get it out himself, but the satisfaction of me doing it is far greater!

Thanks
Splash

waggy · Jul 1, 2020

Hi

I would look to remove the cir clip first as that might be your problem!
David

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NicD · Jul 1, 2020

Circlip retains bearing. Don't need to remove

The photo shows the outside of a sleeve that runs through the bearing. A bolt screws into it from the other side.

Dont apply heat to side you show there as there is a bearing in the recess with seals that will melt. Apply heat if necessary to other side. Bolt is torqued to about 100nm i think. You need to hold the sleeve (shown in photo) and then unscrew the bolt from other side

NicD · Jul 1, 2020

and/or get a haynes manual. it should set out the process and may mention which bolts are threadlocked

Slipperyeel · Jul 1, 2020

I'm wondering if you got it hot enough... Needs to be 100 degrees +. Will take a while to get it to that with all that other metal around it.

Presumably you're using a hot air gun? Definitely takes a while..

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Advsplash · Jul 1, 2020

Slipperyeel said:
I'm wondering if you got it hot enough... Needs to be 100 degrees +. Will take a while to get it to that with all that other metal around it.

Presumably you're using a hot air gun? Definitely takes a while..

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Me too... as NicD said need to be careful of the seals on the bearings and I don’t have nor can I seem to source a smaller nozzle for directing the hot air from the gun. Heating it from the torx side I can’t imagine would work / penetrate heat as required.

casper · Jul 1, 2020

You need to get them very hot.
Quite often they will tighten up again after moving as the loctite cools.
I used a small blow torch and used aluminium shim stock to protect the surrounding area.
Hope this helps.

Santa-2512 · Jul 1, 2020

I just used two long extensioins on a bar to lock the side the op has posteda pic of to the ground,

And then a long breaker bar on the otherside and just turned , one it started moving i just carried on,

Its blue threadlocked i believe which is a medium strength, ( i'm prolly wrong)

adm1 · Jul 1, 2020

Santa-2512 said:
I just used two long extensioins on a bar to lock the side the op has posteda pic of to the ground,

And then a long breaker bar on the otherside and just turned , one it started moving i just carried on,

Its blue threadlocked i believe which is a medium strength, ( i'm prolly wrong)

That's what I did....long breaker bar braced on the ground, with the wife holding it in place.

Plus some heat and it came out. Not easily, but it did....

Slipperyeel · Jul 1, 2020

Advsplash said:
Me too... as NicD said need to be careful of the seals on the bearings and I don’t have nor can I seem to source a smaller nozzle for directing the hot air from the gun. Heating it from the torx side I can’t imagine would work / penetrate heat as required.

If you warm it all at once, with the hot air gun, Orly be fine, but also best in mint you need to give more heat to the bolt - whilst dosing the heat around... A torch is quicker and more precise, but you've gotta take real care not to hit anything else with the flame - obvious I know - but that's the only risk with a torch if you have one

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Advsplash · Jul 1, 2020

Cheers for all replies guys, much appreciated and just obvious I think I’m not giving it enough heat or man power on the pry, I’ll happily confess!

Going to give it another go tonight and see how we get on.

Will let you know!

NicD · Jul 1, 2020

plumbers soldering mat and blowlamp

NicD · Jul 1, 2020

and be careful removing bolts that are threadlocked without heating. Can be fine but you can also destroy the threads. in this case there is the sleeve to replace which isn't too much, but can be costly elsewhere

Popell · Jul 1, 2020

Not wishing to sound stupid.......admittedly not tried to remove this particular fastening but I would get the old “brûlée torch”, far more pinpoint. Wouldn’t trust my plumbers blowtorch anywhere near it.

boatman · Jul 1, 2020

If it's going over to Mike for refurb , call him and ask him exactly how he would expect you to do it , he is a very approachable chap and what he tells you WILL be right :thumb2

mikeyboy · Jul 1, 2020

I normally position my heat gun so it’s blowing the hot air directly on to the underneath of the swingarm pivot.after removing the boot.and popping the torque arm back on
I find most heat guns sit fairly well blowing the hot air vertically.
Then I go and make a cuppa..
It needs to be well over 100deg.so give it a good 15 mins to heat all of the components through
The heat won’t damage the powder coat,it’s cured at nearly 200deg when applied.
Applying the heat there should prevent damage to the bearing seals not that it really matters

Santa-2512 · Jul 1, 2020

mikeyboy said:
I normally position my heat gun so it’s blowing the hot air directly on to the underneath of the swingarm pivot.after removing the boot.and popping the torque arm back on
I find most heat guns sit fairly well blowing the hot air vertically.
Then I go and make a cuppa..
It needs to be well over 100deg.so give it a good 15 mins to heat all of the components through
The heat won’t damage the powder coat,it’s cured at nearly 200deg when applied.
Applying the heat there should prevent damage to the bearing seals not that it really matters

15 mins, i was fecking terrified i'd blister the paint, so i kept it moving constantly when i did my lower shock :blast

:

mikeyboy · Jul 1, 2020

Santa-2512 said:
15 mins, i was fecking terrified i'd blister the paint, so i kept it moving constantly when i did my lower shock :

We are talking heat gun not blowlamp
It’s a good few inches away so the whole thing warms up together.
The swing arm is like a massive heat sink so there is no point in giving it a quick blast and expecting the loctite to release

Advsplash · Jul 1, 2020

We all love a happy ending?

and we got one. :beerjug:

Gave it a second shot with some assistance as others had and it worked - it's free, final drive off and ready to be packaged up and shipped for a miracle to be performed. :rob

Red locite applied to the fastening as pictured. Also just took a few snaps of the drive shaft splines and pinion shaft. I have some play in the driveshaft if I pull and push on it, only slight - I assume that's something else I need to look into.

Thanks again chaps! :bow

NicD · Jul 1, 2020

red/blue confusing. "red" generally means high strength which is exceedingly hard to undo. medium generally called 'blue' but can be other colours

looks in good condition to be honest

play in driveshaft may be driveshaft moving on output shaft but others can correct me

check tight spots in uj

Final Drive Pivot Bolt - Any removal tricks?

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