Hi. Can anyone tell me the potential problems with an early water cooled r1200gs to look out for please. A friend is looking at possibly buying one as he says they are cheaper than a tc. I love my 2010 tc but he’s asked my advice on whether the 2013 models on are ok!
Late hexhead v early water cooled
- Thread starter GSGRIFF
- Start date
never buy an early LC, the last ones are bad enough
the LC looks flash but isn't - the air cooled one might last you 15 years with little more than an ABS module rebuild, a battery and some brake pads
when you say HEX head note there are two air cooled engines
a less refined hex with 4 bolt rocker covers with a decent bottom end (if you get the fueling right)
the last twin cam ones has two bolt covers - these if you never go over 3500 rpm are much more refined - but its got far less grunt down there compensated with a bit more rip at 7to 8k where you'll never bother to go looking for it in today's gridlock potholes...
the LC looks flash but isn't - the air cooled one might last you 15 years with little more than an ABS module rebuild, a battery and some brake pads
when you say HEX head note there are two air cooled engines
a less refined hex with 4 bolt rocker covers with a decent bottom end (if you get the fueling right)
the last twin cam ones has two bolt covers - these if you never go over 3500 rpm are much more refined - but its got far less grunt down there compensated with a bit more rip at 7to 8k where you'll never bother to go looking for it in today's gridlock potholes...
Something to bear in mind for you’re doing long peage or autobahn runs, there’s no cruise control on the GS hexhead.
There is on the LC.
There is on the LC.
jefformston
Registered user
Throttle lock helps on the motorway but needs constant fine tuning to keep speed consistent.
2013- LC
Stator - ( Alternator) is internal it occupys the area where the clutch plate was on the Hehxheads ,
Its a weak point, and a fail here , will relieve you of over 1.3K to fix, its an engine out & split, then new stator ring, and rebuild & replace engine
Labour is 16hrs alone
Shocks -F&R if ESA ( Most will be) only warranted for 30K and a rear is 1.2K part only !
The later bikes are not immune
ECU's battery's , throttle body's, throttle grip, wiring, cam sensors, all can fail !
If you mate is brave enough to punt for one, he can take out the extended warranty ,
however there are some clauses depending on the pre exsisting state of the bike.
If its got an extened warranty that has not lapsed, he can take it over with the £0 excess option,
if its lapsed, then bike will need the latest service due, carried out by the main dealer, and each claim will be subject to a £50 excess
Personally id go for a 2011 /12 TC i did the LC for the cruise and factory lowered .. it was a brief and very expensive 3 years !
Stator - ( Alternator) is internal it occupys the area where the clutch plate was on the Hehxheads ,
Its a weak point, and a fail here , will relieve you of over 1.3K to fix, its an engine out & split, then new stator ring, and rebuild & replace engine
Labour is 16hrs alone
Shocks -F&R if ESA ( Most will be) only warranted for 30K and a rear is 1.2K part only !
The later bikes are not immune
ECU's battery's , throttle body's, throttle grip, wiring, cam sensors, all can fail !
If you mate is brave enough to punt for one, he can take out the extended warranty ,
however there are some clauses depending on the pre exsisting state of the bike.
If its got an extened warranty that has not lapsed, he can take it over with the £0 excess option,
if its lapsed, then bike will need the latest service due, carried out by the main dealer, and each claim will be subject to a £50 excess
Personally id go for a 2011 /12 TC i did the LC for the cruise and factory lowered .. it was a brief and very expensive 3 years !
My wife has a 2014 LC with 42K miles on the clock - 12K when she bought it.
It’s been very reliable. The rear shock packed up after 30K and was rebuilt by DenZo at a very reasonable price - I do believe that very expensive after market shocks recommend a rebuild after 30K anyway.
it was layed up for nearly a year recently and started fist time with jump leads, it did need a new battery - which was probably due anyway in fairness - and has been fine since.
Your friend needs to ride one before he buys as they have a very different feel to the hex heads, I have a TC and whilst I think the LC engine is great I prefer the TC to ride.
As mentioned I am very jealous of the cruise control, so handy for speed limits and long journeys.
It’s been very reliable. The rear shock packed up after 30K and was rebuilt by DenZo at a very reasonable price - I do believe that very expensive after market shocks recommend a rebuild after 30K anyway.
it was layed up for nearly a year recently and started fist time with jump leads, it did need a new battery - which was probably due anyway in fairness - and has been fine since.
Your friend needs to ride one before he buys as they have a very different feel to the hex heads, I have a TC and whilst I think the LC engine is great I prefer the TC to ride.
As mentioned I am very jealous of the cruise control, so handy for speed limits and long journeys.
forget which model BM, but the dealer had this super complex cast monstrosity in his hand - I asked what is it ? and he said, its a water pump from an xxxx - I said that's ridiculous, do they go wrong often ? - to which he said, why do you think I'm holding it, and they cost (I think he said) £750 !!!
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There’s a lot to be said for the older BMWs, if you can fix them yourself.
They are/were outstanding bikes of their time, and things haven’t moved on that much (in fact gone backwards in terms of quality materials and fixings)
I’ve rebuilt airhead, oil head and hexhead, and they’re all relatively straightforward if you have time, a ramp, the right tools and diagnostics.
On that basis I’d have no hesitation at all in taking on an LC, but I’d want to go through it all before I trusted it entirely for an expensive 2 week trip in Europe for example.
I’m currently doing that with a K1300, which is a lovely and incredibly capable bike that is well worth investing time in. Oh and riding year round helps avoid the little surprises of course …
They are/were outstanding bikes of their time, and things haven’t moved on that much (in fact gone backwards in terms of quality materials and fixings)
I’ve rebuilt airhead, oil head and hexhead, and they’re all relatively straightforward if you have time, a ramp, the right tools and diagnostics.
On that basis I’d have no hesitation at all in taking on an LC, but I’d want to go through it all before I trusted it entirely for an expensive 2 week trip in Europe for example.
I’m currently doing that with a K1300, which is a lovely and incredibly capable bike that is well worth investing time in. Oh and riding year round helps avoid the little surprises of course …
If you're buying an LC, by model year 2017 most of the gremlins were sorted out, including an improved gearbox.
My 2013 LC was good to 30k miles, and then stolen - I have no doubt that I would still have it today if it wasn't nicked.
It did have a new engine, due to corrosion issues, but that wouldn't be an issue on any potential purchase the OP is asking about.
It did have a new engine, due to corrosion issues, but that wouldn't be an issue on any potential purchase the OP is asking about.
Some lucky bugger is out there riding my old metallic grey ‘58 plate Hexhead GSA which I lovingly maintained for ten years, whilst I now ride nervously around on my ‘19 plate 1250GSA Rallye HP hoping that nothing goes wrong with it.
Wish I had kept my old bike.
Wish I had kept my old bike.
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