R1200GS TU rear wheel bearing

mpgscott

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Well I’ve sold the RT and will hopefully be picking up an early twin cam this week. Bikes on a 59 plate registered start of January 2010, I can’t recall seeing many 59 plates other than on the launch videos down in Malaga back at the time.

Anyway bikes done 30k and appears to be well looked after, I noticed on the last Mot there was an advisory for slight play in rear wheel bearing. I’ve had a quick search around our wonderful forum but couldn’t find anything specific relating so thought I would ask everybody’s advice.

Is this a concern or are they a rebuild of the hub?

I will give it a good check over and test it but want to know how big a job it maybe?

As normal thanks for the comments.

Mark
 
Well I’ve sold the RT and will hopefully be picking up an early twin cam this week. Bikes on a 59 plate registered start of January 2010, I can’t recall seeing many 59 plates other than on the launch videos down in Malaga back at the time.

Anyway bikes done 30k and appears to be well looked after, I noticed on the last Mot there was an advisory for slight play in rear wheel bearing. I’ve had a quick search around our wonderful forum but couldn’t find anything specific relating so thought I would ask everybody’s advice.

Is this a concern or are they a rebuild of the hub?

I will give it a good check over and test it but want to know how big a job it maybe?

As normal thanks for the comments.

Mark

Just send it to Mikeyboy,

the magic wand will be waved
 
If it was an advisory at MOT testing, then you can't really be sure the person doing it has experience with the beemer FD...

Before you get into pulling it apart, I'd suggest riding it for a while and checking yourself, when it's cold and hot and my several times in different occasions There's a good chance it's just fine and yes, there might be a smidgeon of play. But that smidgeon might be perfectly normal.

By 'smidgeon' I mean the amount is so small, you have to keep checking because you're not sure if it's in your imagination or if it really is there!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
there is no play at all on my 2007 30k mile GS, the K1300GT had a bit of slop at 15k
funny enough looking around the silver shaft seems to be rot free for a long time, the darker grey the GT had and some GS' get seems to rot fast (and its not condition related... like the material is half as good)
 
Get a mate to help,
Check for play at 12 and 6 o’clock,if you feel any ,try to feel for play in the paralever bearings.
Check again at 9 and 3 o’clock again if you feel play try to eliminate the parabearings.
Drain the oil into a clean container.if it’s black and manky,there may be wear internally.
Next up remove the bolt from the upper torque arm and pivot the unit down.
Check for play in the input pinion(give it a good wiggle)
There should be next to no play.
Slowly rotate the disc/hub,
Now everything is disconnected it should feel nice and smooth,any notchyness would indicate the main crown wheel bearing is on the way out.
So,no play at the wheel.
No play in the pinion
Nice and smooth
Oil clean .
No leaking seals
Good to go,
Check the u/j’s on the prop,lube the splines,rebuild and refill with 200ml oil.
Hope this helps:thumby:
 
Hi Folks,

I went to take a look today and with hands at 12 and 6 there is a fair amount of movement, i tried to capture it in the video link https://youtu.be/uUngEr4Nbck what would be the thoughts. I have not yet bought the bike and wanted to get the thoughts here prior to pushing the button. Compared to my other GS's and the RT i just sold these all had no movement where this has quite a lot. The seller reckons its been like this for a while including an overseas trip.
 
I think you're waggling it the wrong way. Grab the top and bottom and rock it in and out i.e standing facing the wheel towards you and away from you.
 
When mine had play,

holding the wheel at 12 & 6 and rocking it toward and away from me it has about 1mm movement

You can also do it at 9 & 3 and move it the same way

any movement, and i'd say mikeyboy needs to work his magic
 
I believe some movement is acceptable. The BMW service manual states 1mm. I think that's at the rim.

That would feel tiny in your hands doing the check.

Saw the video. Comments above are right, you need to feel for movement left to right of the bike, not front to back

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
I believe some movement is acceptable. The BMW service manual states 1mm. I think that's at the rim.

That would feel tiny in your hands doing the check.

Saw the video. Comments above are right, you need to feel for movement left to right of the bike, not front to back

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Its hard to get the video but it was left to right that the movment was felt and its a lot more than 1mm from my untrained hands. Hopefully it could be saved but its not certain.
 
Its hard to get the video but it was left to right that the movment was felt and its a lot more than 1mm from my untrained hands. Hopefully it could be saved but its not certain.
The wonders of video .

I think if you're absolutely clear there's movement, buy the bike and just get the FD rebuilt. It's not a drama. Indeed, you'll know it's done.

I think 'acceptable' play is when you think you felt something but have to keep checking it because you're really not sure, it's that slight a movement... I mean, in the absence of getting the dual guage out.

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