Throttle body rebuild

dubster

dubster

Registered user
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
1,484
Reaction score
0
Location
some random place
In response to loud bloody rattling noises coming from my TBs, I've got hold of a set of Cata Dan's rebuild kits...

I'm fairly competent with a spanner (in an inept kind of way) but this is pushing the limits of my skills/knowledge :eek:

Has anyone done this rebuild and any tips before I get stuck in?

Presumably I'll lose factory settings and be forced to do the 'zero-zero' procedure?

:beerjug:

edit: 1150GSA single spark
 
I've had some of his kits sitting round for a couple of years , just not got round to doing the rebuilds yet. The YouTube video makes it look straight forwards to do. Not sure about setting up after though. You are not meant to mess with the throttle stop screws so the only adjustment on the right one will be with the brass screw. The left one will need the throttle position voltage resetting and the brass screw.
This is assuming the cables are correctly adjusted.
The one issue I have is with the small screws going through the throttle shaft holding the butterfly disc. Bit concerned about them coming loose. On my mgb when I rebuilt the SU carbs the screws were split so could be opened up after tightening to lock them into place.
 
Don't remove the bracket with the throttle stop. No need for the zero-zero palaver.
But you'll need to detach the cables and so balancing the throttles will be necessary. And probably much easier than with the worn bushes.

I had real trouble removing the bushes on the LH body. The RH bushes were a bit stubborn I resorted to screwing in a tap and knocking it out with a hammer. Dan's makeshift method in the video with bolt and wire would never have worked on mine.
Tips:
Mark the butterfly disc with some paint as a reminder of orientation.
I worried about small screws and nuts too. I decided to flatten the exposed threads after installion. I used a drop of thread lock too but I don't expect it will last long with the fuel mixture.
I used some threadlock on shaft end bolts too.
Maybe obvious - tighten the butterfly screws last and ensure throttle is closing fully.
 
Sorry to but in but how do you get hold of Cata Dan's repair kits? I've done lots of searches to no avail.
My 1150 is ticking like my dad's pacemaker at Spearmint Rhinos :eek:
 
OWDGEESER said:
Sorry to but in but how do you get hold of Cata Dan's repair kits? I've done lots of searches to no avail.
My 1150 is ticking like my dad's pacemaker at Spearmint Rhinos :eek:
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure I PM'd him via the adv forum.

Edit: Yes, just checked. It was definitely via the Adventure Rider forum. Back in 2014 it cost $130 posted for both sides, and yes, they are still sitting in the box waiting to be fitted!
 
Moto Bins do them too, part no. ZZ13853. I'm about to order some myself. The only question I have is that on my bodies the pulley for the throttle cable seems to be pressed onto the spindle. All the videos I've seen seem to show it bolted on. Still, how hard can it be...
 
George's Dad said:
... The only question I have is that on my bodies the pulley for the throttle cable seems to be pressed onto the spindle. All the videos I've seen seem to show it bolted on. Still, how hard can it be...
Click to expand...
Yes, mine too. But you can knock the old shaft out easily. The new shaft was a bit sloppy in the pulley but once bolted-up seemed okay. You may find the video shows a washer not present on the 1150 model.
 
I did the Dan Cata rebuild. He provides throttle shafts that are undersized at the pulley. It is no longer pressed in the pulley and there's major play. So, even with Red Loctite, it is fine now, but it can get loose over time. Bing's rebuilt kit is more expensive, but it includes an OEM shaft pressed in an OEM wheel. Theorically, no need to play with the throttle stop screw. therwise, get your multimeter ready and look for Roger's post.
 
AdrianS said:
You are not meant to mess with the throttle stop screws so the only adjustment on the right one will be with the brass screw. The left one will need the throttle position voltage resetting and the brass screw.
Click to expand...

Thanks AdrianS for clarifying... that makes life easier I reckon!

Two wheels good said:
Don't remove the bracket with the throttle stop. No need for the zero-zero palaver.
But you'll need to detach the cables and so balancing the throttles will be necessary. And probably much easier than with the worn bushes.

I had real trouble removing the bushes on the LH body. The RH bushes were a bit stubborn I resorted to screwing in a tap and knocking it out with a hammer. Dan's makeshift method in the video with bolt and wire would never have worked on mine.
Tips:
Mark the butterfly disc with some paint as a reminder of orientation.
I worried about small screws and nuts too. I decided to flatten the exposed threads after installion. I used a drop of thread lock too but I don't expect it will last long with the fuel mixture.
I used some threadlock on shaft end bolts too.
Maybe obvious - tighten the butterfly screws last and ensure throttle is closing fully.
Click to expand...

Many thanks Two wheels, a good list of things to watch out for there :beerjug:

No doubt I will still find a way to cock it up :D
 
Massive Lee said:
I did the Dan Cata rebuild. He provides throttle shafts that are undersized at the pulley. It is no longer pressed in the pulley and there's major play. So, even with Red Loctite, it is fine now, but it can get loose over time.
Click to expand...

Just what I didn't want to hear :D

Will try the loctite if it's loose, thanks for the heads-up
 
I did mine recently with a Dan cata kit, the only difficult bit is knocking out the old bushes, I tried tapping them then pulling them out with a bolt, didn't work at all. Then did it the way that Dan did it in his video and it worked a treat,
Very easy job to do, it took about 40 mins all done.
Get stuck in you'll be fine.
I only did the LH body as the other was not rattling.
 
AdrianS said:
I've had some of his kits sitting round for a couple of years , just not got round to doing the rebuilds yet. The YouTube video makes it look straight forwards to do. Not sure about setting up after though. You are not meant to mess with the throttle stop screws so the only adjustment on the right one will be with the brass screw. The left one will need the throttle position voltage resetting and the brass screw.
This is assuming the cables are correctly adjusted.
The one issue I have is with the small screws going through the throttle shaft holding the butterfly disc. Bit concerned about them coming loose. On my mgb when I rebuilt the SU carbs the screws were split so could be opened up after tightening to lock them into place.
Click to expand...

Install the little screws with loctite then have someone hold the head over a block of steel and give them a light tap with a chisel or centre punch to spread the tail end very slightly, they will never come out if you do it right.
 
Thanks for advice all

Hope to fix up once weather allows as working in the lovely fresh air (and rain).

After a bimble this morning have oil coming from FD/D rubber.. :eek: New thread started :jager
 
spanner monkey said:
the only difficult bit is knocking out the old bushes, I tried tapping them then pulling them out with a bolt, didn't work at all. Then did it the way that Dan did it in his video and it worked a treat
Click to expand...

I tried Dan's method, maybe I just fucked it up. In the end I went to Screwfix and bought a four quid screw extractor, was a piece of piss :)

Everything's just soaking now before being cleaned with petrol tomorrow...
 
I installed this Dan Cãtan Throttle Body Rebuild kit myself on my 2000 BMW yesterday

The task was quite simple, and only the removal of these original slide bearings, which had been in place for over 20 years, was a bit of a challenge.
It was difficult until I realized that an 8mm bolt sawn into a split 20mm from one end would work very well as a bearing removal tool ;-)
Also, I noticed when disassembling my own BMW that the pulley ends didn't have the shims described by Dan Cãta that I had to find elsewhere, so the mounting shoulders for that axle would have been perfect for another setup in the future.

Otherwise, this operation was easy to do, and the end result now completely satisfies me.
The original problem was the TPS which I could not adjust to the set margins under all conditions and now works 100% fine.
395977082_10227312324372333_4068766857864669679_n-jpg.5373289
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom