I've done a search but can't find the details on reseting the TPS
.
Please can somebody put up the link?
.Please can somebody put up the link?
TPS Reset
- Thread starter Tonibe63
- Start date
littleredrooster
Registered user
Not sure that you can with the 1200. Maybe disconnect the battery, count ten, reconnect then turn ignition on and open the throttle three times fully. Only a guess, though......
Bear
Registered user
That's exactly what my handbook tells me to do when I change the battery.
Racey
Registered user
BMW TPS Reset TPS reset routine:
1) Disconnect battery for about 30 seconds then reconnect (causes ECU to lose it's memory of Throttle Position Sensor).
2) Turn ignition to on but DO NOT start the engine.
3) Slowly wind the throttle fully open to fully shut, repeat this three times.
4) Turn off ignition. (ECU now stores TPS position data in memory).
5) Wait 5 seconds.
6) Turn on ignition again and start bike. Before doing this, I would check that the wiring to the TPS itself hasn't been kicked or disturbed, its the electrical unit on the air intake in front of your Left foot.
1) Disconnect battery for about 30 seconds then reconnect (causes ECU to lose it's memory of Throttle Position Sensor).
2) Turn ignition to on but DO NOT start the engine.
3) Slowly wind the throttle fully open to fully shut, repeat this three times.
4) Turn off ignition. (ECU now stores TPS position data in memory).
5) Wait 5 seconds.
6) Turn on ignition again and start bike. Before doing this, I would check that the wiring to the TPS itself hasn't been kicked or disturbed, its the electrical unit on the air intake in front of your Left foot.
Backroader
Registered user
Sorry if this is a dinloe question. What does this TPS do ? I searched threads but nothing came up.
On my 08 1200GS the reaction to twisting the throttle is not exactly what I would call instant. On an old bike you would say that the throttle cables would need adjusting.
This is my major complaint between this bike and an old R100GS that I had. When you twisted the throttle on that the reaction was instant. I mainly use back roads so I need instant zap. I know you have to play with the gears on the new ones but even so reaction is a bit lardy.
On my 08 1200GS the reaction to twisting the throttle is not exactly what I would call instant. On an old bike you would say that the throttle cables would need adjusting.
This is my major complaint between this bike and an old R100GS that I had. When you twisted the throttle on that the reaction was instant. I mainly use back roads so I need instant zap. I know you have to play with the gears on the new ones but even so reaction is a bit lardy.
I've done a search but can't find the details on reseting the TPS
Please can somebody put up the link?
The bike will "reset" the TPS automatically as you ride it.
All your doing is telling the motronic where full throttle and idle are.
I've done a TPS reset (as per points 2 to 6) on my GSA but I didn't have to disconnect the battery for it to reset
Thanks for the info guys
.
The bike has always had the feeling that it is going to stall when cold for the first couple of minutes/junctions near home but then it clears up-a mate gets the same feeling on his so it may well be common. Over the last week or so this has become more pronounced when cold and a couple of days ago I sat at the traffic lights in neutral after a 20 mile ride and I had to blip the throttle as it felt like it wanted to stall-the first time I've had it when engine warm. Finally yesterday after work the bike started fine but when shutting off in first gear going out of the gate it just cut out
. The bike started straight back up on the button but this was a step too far.
It's an 07 1200GS with 22000 miles on the clock, 16000 of which I've done in the 2 years I've had it. I've never had a single problem with the bike and it has had all the recall stuff done (FPC was also replaced a month ago as a recall not breakdown).
Any thoughts.
.The bike has always had the feeling that it is going to stall when cold for the first couple of minutes/junctions near home but then it clears up-a mate gets the same feeling on his so it may well be common. Over the last week or so this has become more pronounced when cold and a couple of days ago I sat at the traffic lights in neutral after a 20 mile ride and I had to blip the throttle as it felt like it wanted to stall-the first time I've had it when engine warm. Finally yesterday after work the bike started fine but when shutting off in first gear going out of the gate it just cut out
. The bike started straight back up on the button but this was a step too far.It's an 07 1200GS with 22000 miles on the clock, 16000 of which I've done in the 2 years I've had it. I've never had a single problem with the bike and it has had all the recall stuff done (FPC was also replaced a month ago as a recall not breakdown).
Any thoughts
.
It's the 'Throttle Position Sensor'.
It does exactly what it's name would suggest - i.e. tells the ecu how far open (or not) the throttle is. Basically a potentiometer in a fancy case.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Thanks for the info guys
The bike has always had the feeling that it is going to stall when cold for the first couple of minutes/junctions near home but then it clears up-a mate gets the same feeling on his so it may well be common. Over the last week or so this has become more pronounced when cold and a couple of days ago I sat at the traffic lights in neutral after a 20 mile ride and I had to blip the throttle as it felt like it wanted to stall-the first time I've had it when engine warm. Finally yesterday after work the bike started fine but when shutting off in first gear going out of the gate it just cut out
It's an 07 1200GS with 22000 miles on the clock, 16000 of which I've done in the 2 years I've had it. I've never had a single problem with the bike and it has had all the recall stuff done (FPC was also replaced a month ago as a recall not breakdown).
Any thoughts
I'm sounding like a broken record on this subject, but anyway. Check your primary coils. Older bikes had black painted coils with fail over time either by corrosion or just breaking down internally. My bike was a booger for stalling eventually sorted with a new primary coil and another one about an hour later which packed up on my way home from the dealers.
Mine grumbled on for ages before they eventually packed up and then was obvious. Both smelled burnt. The new ones don't smell at all so a niff of burnt insulation is a hint of what's going on.
How did you manage to post a reply in a near 6 year old thread, I'm sure it'll be helpful none the less.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Feck knows. Blame the iPhone - Silly little text and long sight.
Indeed. The voice of reason. Ride it and it sorts itself out.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Certainly but I hardly ever use full throttle on road so the TPS reset routine makes sense for me. Saying that Ive only used about 2x in 3 years.
Bikesmikey
Registered user
My 04 r850r cut out but restarted but 10 miles further on it happened again but wouldn't start even though the ignition lights were on. I checked all electrics lastly after days of testing i adjusted the TPS a little! it started and ran like normal. So i assume it is the problem I just hope im right cos i live miles away from civilisation. nearest shop is 10 mile away
What happens when it cuts out ? Does the revcounter bounce about when you try to start the bike ?
Any off fluff and pops in exhaust
leave it sitting 10 mins and it fires up ?
Usually worn TPS can cause issues but more usually on a higher miles bike
Bikesmikey
Registered user
Thanks, but no just a slight unsteady tick over but no other symptoms. I marked the original position of the TPS. after
I adjusted it and it ran fine, i repositioned it back to original setting it wouldn't run but ticked over open the throttle it
cut out. I then moved it back to new position it ran fine. I am going to remove it to clean it and check the o ring.
I adjusted it and it ran fine, i repositioned it back to original setting it wouldn't run but ticked over open the throttle it
cut out. I then moved it back to new position it ran fine. I am going to remove it to clean it and check the o ring.
1) as mentioned by MattW, its one of the sensors the bike uses to roughly spit some fuel in so the engine almost runs sometimes...
2) any GS 1200 should have instant response to throttle inputs if above 3k rpm any gear forth or lower - and hard fast response in all gears after 5k rpm all the way to the rev limiter - using any speed you want to twist the grip - is should rip down the road in a lively manner... (the stock emissions mess, means an overly lean mixture can make this rougher, jerkier and worse that it can be below 4k rpm but it still reacts)
because the injection system on these bikes is basic and nasty, they couldn't be bothered with sensors that help understand the vehicle load and just bodged it off the throttle position... aka a 1970s budget injection system, not one fit for thirty years later when they designed and made these bikes...
after the dark ages they moved to air flow measurement - both of these are restrictions around the throttle body - first a flap with a reed switch in the late 70s, and then late 80s a heated wire and you measure the resistance as it gets colder with more air flow.... but these get dirty and play up - these days this idea uses a MAF sensor (mass air flow) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor
but you really need to understand how dense the air is not just its flow - a later better idea is a MAP sensor, its a better more expensive way to do it - as it needs more development of far more sophisticated maps and a better brain to handle things - Kids replace these all day long on their cars with lots of misdiagnosis (where they get replaced often to no effect) this is a Manifold absolute pressure sensor and it helps provide better info than just throttle position or the air flow https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor
but with any form of injection a critical element most forget is fuel rail pressure. All the sensors in the world on the best, fastest chipped ECU, with perfect maps will still be totally muddled, if the fuel pressure is wrong. As the amount coming out is not what the ECU thinks its sending... (as they control fueling by the time an injector stays open).
Back on BMW bikes, many forums worldwide have a lot of owners noticing the throttle position switch seems to go a bit strange around 30k miles of use... (replace as a service item). However adding to the fun, the fuel pump ages and drops its fuel pressure - again often coming in around 30k miles of use... BUT confusing that picture many were recalled and got a new pump - although the dealer likely never said that's what they fitted - thus many bikes would have been on 15k or so miles at the time of the recall, so the replacement may still be serviceable...
on a car most have a fuel pressure regulator - so a circuit (fuel rail) feeding the injectors maintains a consistent pressure over many years... I have no idea if we get a regulator on the GS (never destroyed a pump and all its spaghetti) - but I think there's a fuel pressure sensor on the K1300s (almost the same set up as the GS on all its electrics ) and something goes wrong quite often and it gets misdiagnosed all the time...
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The TPS ( Throttle Position Sensor) is a potentiometer with a carbon track. Not a switch.
Think audio amplifier volume control , after a lot of use you get a scratchy sound when you turn the volume knob due to a worn or dirty track and wiper, imagine the ECU trying to make sense of the added noise on the signal.
The TPS on the R1200GS is fixed and cannot be reset or adjusted. The OP`s Bike #15 is an R850R of which I have little experience, If similar to an R1100 or R1150 Oilheads then a reset is needed on the TPS.
There are reasonably priced Hella TPS sensors as previously mentioned on this forum and available via ebay.
If there is a bog just off idle and the TPS is good I would suspect that the throttle bodies need balancing and the idle stepper motors need calibrating on an R1200 .
No good balancing the throttle bodies at 3000rpm and expecting them to be right just off idle.
The engine load is calculated from the information supplied to the ECU see your GS911 Data readouts.
A MAP sensor reads manifold vacuum or pressure in a forced induction system ( Turbocharged or Supercharged)
Air atmospheric pressure is measured as there is a sensor built inside the ECU on the R1200.
There is a remote fuel pressure regulator ( purely mechanical) in the system as it is mounted just to the left of the ABS pump on the R1200.
There is also a pressure relief valve built into the top of the fuel pump.
My experience of pump failure, loosing pressure is fairly rapid within a hundred miles or so. when the brushes wear out seems to be the problem.
These are not a vane type pump pump which gradually loose pressure they are a turbine pump which do not seem to suffer from wear.
These run at high pressures with the internal relief valve set at 120psi on ebay pumps and 80psi on OE pumps but that is another set of problems too many hours spent sorting that one out.
At the end of the day the R1200 injection system is pretty good , if you study the results of the fuelling maps you will see just how good the system is.
Think audio amplifier volume control , after a lot of use you get a scratchy sound when you turn the volume knob due to a worn or dirty track and wiper, imagine the ECU trying to make sense of the added noise on the signal.
The TPS on the R1200GS is fixed and cannot be reset or adjusted. The OP`s Bike #15 is an R850R of which I have little experience, If similar to an R1100 or R1150 Oilheads then a reset is needed on the TPS.
There are reasonably priced Hella TPS sensors as previously mentioned on this forum and available via ebay.
If there is a bog just off idle and the TPS is good I would suspect that the throttle bodies need balancing and the idle stepper motors need calibrating on an R1200 .
No good balancing the throttle bodies at 3000rpm and expecting them to be right just off idle.
The engine load is calculated from the information supplied to the ECU see your GS911 Data readouts.
A MAP sensor reads manifold vacuum or pressure in a forced induction system ( Turbocharged or Supercharged)
Air atmospheric pressure is measured as there is a sensor built inside the ECU on the R1200.
There is a remote fuel pressure regulator ( purely mechanical) in the system as it is mounted just to the left of the ABS pump on the R1200.
There is also a pressure relief valve built into the top of the fuel pump.
My experience of pump failure, loosing pressure is fairly rapid within a hundred miles or so. when the brushes wear out seems to be the problem.
These are not a vane type pump pump which gradually loose pressure they are a turbine pump which do not seem to suffer from wear.
These run at high pressures with the internal relief valve set at 120psi on ebay pumps and 80psi on OE pumps but that is another set of problems
too many hours spent sorting that one out.At the end of the day the R1200 injection system is pretty good , if you study the results of the fuelling maps you will see just how good the system is.
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