Project Stealth

What tension did you end up with on the spokes, the factory figure or something different?
I dont think anyone has said rebuilding the front was not possible without a jig, it is the rear which all the professional builders have problems with without a machine.
 
The rear wheel was next and we used the same system for tightening sticking with a factory type figure, the bevel box was pressed into service as the mount, and yes the inner spokes where covered by the brake drum so that took some patience....

Supercorsa's had been aquired and after a trip to my local tyre fitter this was the end result

Front


And rear all snug





Rear tyre clearance to swingarm is good with a 180 but this tyre looks a bit too big for the rim so this will get changed out for a 160 at some point in the future before it hits the streets, but basically the frame can be turned back into a roller so we can concentrate on the seat frame and look at the ride height and what if anything needs doing to the front forks, previously they looked too long and my guess is the travel will need a bit of shortening time will tell.
 
Bit more action today sun out so felt inspired....

Anyway could not resist putting the front end on, so no head bearings the rear end no shock or lever on the para..total jury rigged but made me smile





 
paul cardy said:
.........and look at the ride height and what if anything needs doing to the front forks, previously they looked too long and my guess is the travel will need a bit of shortening time will tell.
Click to expand...

Don't quote me but R100R forks are, from what I can remember, 38mm longer than the previous R100 RS/RT/S standard fork length, so the head angles are on rather the stable side of things. Without cutting springs and adding spacers, I guess choices are either drop the triples down the legs or raise the back to get "standard" BMW road angles. I did both, adding some length to the shock mount on the frame (as I didn't want to buy a new GS length shock) and dropped the triples….. I still need to shorten my springs to get to the right length though.

I guess the choice comes down to what steering head angle and what bike height you want based on what you want to do with the bike, road or track. I was on a budget and wanted to do everything from track to touring so ended up with an eclectic set of bits and compromises. Based on your other project, I'm expecting something a lot more polished :)

BTW did your fork brace have the rubber pins holding it in place? Can't really understand why the brace is not rigidly mounted..... it makes the brace more of a fender holder than a fork brace as far as I can tell... :-/
 
Hi Andrew

This weeks plan will be to replicate the rear ride height and see what needs to be done to the front end, looking to get the lower frame tube parrellel with the ground or just leaning up at the front to check the riders weight. My guess will be the front forks will need to be shortened but time will tell. We have done this to the Drag Bike forks and it worked out ok this was shortening springs and adding a travel restictor, spring shortening is not ideal but could prove a way forward to get to a point that a suitable replacement set could be sourced - I better qualify this by adding the Drag Bike's not been ridden in this guise yet or had the brakes operated in anger.......so could ride like a boat.....

Not looked at the fork brace yet - took it off and don't remember anything rubber, but this was going to get modified or replaced depending what it looks like. Getting excited..
 
ha ha you're not the only one getting excited, i am sure you have lots of interested watchers :)
 
Moving off at a bit of a tangent, in the background the new (to this bike and not BMW) tank has been souced and will be getting some action from the welder in the near future but first we wanted to make a front mount which is being made out of aluminium and will give an oppertunity to try out the new welder in AC mode.... Were working from the front first as the rear of the tank will be extended to give what is hoped a better proportion so the whole mounting at the rear is up for grabs - few ideas but in the head not yet on paper.

Any way here are the main mount parts





 
What you ned to true the Rear wheel in a jig

This is what I have for truing the rear wheels in a jig also have a 3 hole one
 
Bit more progress on the tank and mounts today

So stating at the rear :) we shaped up some flat plate to match the back bone profile


Then welded a plate into the back bone tube so it would take a 6mm fixing, welded a profiled plate to the curved section and then weled all this to the tank still to be seam welded and bracing to be completed but you get the idea.


Next up the front mount, so using a lenght of steel tubing and welding a flat bar to this to lift the tank up the the desired height we could use the tank STD front mounting cups - the tube uses a rubber cover to take up the slack and hold it steady but still flexible much like the BM version.


And from the side and yes that is a sizable dent in the bottom - nothing to do with me but was covered with some filler and paint when bought so no doubt there is a story to tell.


Now the ali parts from the post last week which will be used to fill in the front tunnel section


This is still a work in progress and hopefully we can get this finished next week......
 
Front mount took another step forward today, this will probally get a satin black finish and the holes getting the same treatment as the engine so still a work in progress.















The ali welding went ok but lots of room for improvement, the tank will have some steel ears ? welded to the front to allow the ali mount to lock in place but thats for next week........
 
Braved the cold and headed out into the garage for the next stage of the tank works.

This tank looked a bit short in proportion from what we wanted and it also looked like an oppertunity to add a bit of our stamp to the bike, the plan was to also tie this into the new rear tank mount and make it all a bit more rigid.

So take some (rusty) mild steel plate and .........















At this stage cold feet and more importantly running our of Argon for the welder stopped play so guess this will take another couple of weekends.

In other news the front disc turned up, looking for some disk bobbings and washers if anyone can help before the piggy bank gets raded so its only balanced in place at this time?



 
Hi Jaz - thanks

So all topped up with Argon......





















Bit of tidying but ultimatly finished until it goes for paint and a bit of blending, its been a lot of work for what looks like a small change but the proportions look much better IMO and the best bit is now onto the seat frame and the ali seat unit... getting excited.
 
The drag bike preparations have caused a big dent in progress with Project Stealth but found a few hours today.
The home computer has died so using the pad which does not help be post up pictures or maybe it's me....
So was dropping off some wheels for powder coating at Trestans and they mentioned that they now do aqua blasting so went round and looked at the set up very impressive and a pair of carbs for £20. So couple of weeks back I dropped off the Bings, and today I put the nice like new parts back together. Have to say they looked mega and RM had sorted out a new gasket set and his SS choke levers, so had a very relaxing afternoon in the sun putting these back together. The trumpets have now been machined with a coller which needs a small grub screw added for clamping purposes fancy having these black to match the engine and gearbox....hopefully we will be back on line soon and the associated pics can be added but until then picture something shiny.......
 
paul cardy said:
The rear wheel was next and we used the same system for tightening sticking with a factory type figure, the bevel box was pressed into service as the mount, and yes the inner spokes where covered by the brake drum so that took some patience....

Supercorsa's had been aquired and after a trip to my local tyre fitter this was the end result

Front


And rear all snug





Rear tyre clearance to swingarm is good with a 180 but this tyre looks a bit too big for the rim so this will get changed out for a 160 at some point in the future before it hits the streets, but basically the frame can be turned back into a roller so we can concentrate on the seat frame and look at the ride height and what if anything needs doing to the front forks, previously they looked too long and my guess is the travel will need a bit of shortening time will tell.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul for your post sharing the project, this inspires me a lot with my project to have a wider rear tire on my R100R. I have some concerns:
1) The clearance is about 11mm between the original RIM vs. the swing-arm.
2) The original RIM is 2.5 to be replaced with R1100GS/R1150GS 4.0, meaning we have 1.5 inches increased, equevalent to 38mm, thus we will need to increase 19mm each side of the RIM.
3) If you use the default offset of the R100R, then there's 8mm overlap with the swingarm. If we offset 8mm to the left, the center of the wheel will be move left 8mm.
4) I'm thinking to offset 2mm in the swing-arm with frame, then we still have 6mm to go

Please advise your case.

Thanks,
Tuan
 
Hi Tuan

Your figures look ok so as you have surmised the rear wheel will need to be off set from the centre line of the bike and you do have some movement of the swingarm pivot to help your cause.

I have complicated things by running a 180 tyre which is too big, in my mind it's the clearance between tyre and swingarm which is more important and if you can get this to a nice tight running clearance and have the wheel centered you will have reached the sweet spot. I plan to change to a 160 then check the clearance then maybe readjust the wheel to suit as currently my wheel is running too much offset but I do have a cunning plan.....

Hope this helps please let me know how you get on with your build.
 
Thanks for your response, this gives me more energy to move on with my project.

I am having a R1100GS wheel (with a rim 4.0 inches) and plan to replace the current rim of R100R (2.5 inches), but I still have some concerns before start doing it.

1. For whatever rim, we will need to have the wheel/rim centered with the bike.
2. If I offset the swing arm to the right 2mm by moving of the swingarm pivot, there is about 6mm overlap between the rim (4.0 inches) vs. the swing arm (with assumption there is no clearance between the rim and swing arm). In case we need 3mm clearance, meaning we will need to have 9mm overlap. Thus, can we use 4.0 rim in R100R with the wheel centered?
3. If the rim 4.0 can be used in R100R, even if we have no issue with the clearance of the tire vs. the swing arm, i think 160 or 170 tire will look better with the rim 4.0

Please share your case, have you got your rim/wheel centered? or it is still offset to the left?

Regards,
Tuan
 
Using a std tyre size for a 4 inch rim you can definitely have the tyre centred, bigger rubber will need some tricks (so i'm looking forward to seeing some more Paul Cardy handy work based on the cunning plan mentioned above!).

For my installation I had to move the swingarm all the way across to the drive side (rider's right) and move the rim off-centre from the hub the other way to get tyre clearance... can't remember the amount sorry, but it is basically the same amount you move the swing arm off-centre.

And with the standard R100R front rim you now have the same rims as a R1100R Classic (spoked wheels), so recommended tyre sizes are: 110/80 18 + 150/70 17. All pretty simple but definitely a case of measure twice to make sure of everything. My rear rim came back from the wheel builder off-centre the wrong side, meaning a new set of spokes and a re-build locally, but got there in the end.

Best of luck and looking forward to seeing the results of both conversions!
 
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