Right side indicator system.

Rugged Path

The Honourable.
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Albeit the left side is all working OK, including the cancel switch, my right side is totally dead.
Checking the wiring today which is the brown and blue/black lines to see if there is a break or bad connection but, would that prevent total blackout?
Or could it be the handlebar indicator switch itself!
Bulbs are OK.

When removing the right handlebar switch console, I see a small Allan screw at the rear. If I remove it, would all the insides spring out on the floor if prised open?

I hate electrical gremlins, especially in the winter.
Bike, 2002 1150GSA.


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Albeit the left side is all working OK, including the cancel switch, my right side is totally dead.
Checking the wiring today which is the brown and blue/black lines to see if there is a break or bad connection but, would that prevent total blackout?
Or could it be the handlebar indicator switch itself!
Bulbs are OK.

When removing the right handlebar switch console, I see a small Allan screw at the rear. If I remove it, would all the insides spring out on the floor if prised open?

I hate electrical gremlins, especially in the winter.
Bike, 2002 1150GSA.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Follow up...........
Using the hazard switch, all indicators flash OK, including console arrows.


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Sounds like the switch to me? Shame you're not closer, you could've tried mine on yours to see if that's the problem. :rolleyes:
 
Put a volt meter on the wires at your rh indicator. Sometimes you can get a poor earth in the bulb holder.
If there's nothing at the connectors work your way back with the volt meter.
 
Timolgra, my follow up message above said that all indicators and direction arrows light up when the hazard button pressed so, power must be getting through. So must be the switch button.
I need to disassemble and clean / check the contacts for the switch. Just don't want springs and bearing to go flying out when backplate removed.


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hmmm... my right side indicators have started flashing at twice normal speed... I've got a replacement relay from motorworks but same problem... The left are fine, all 4 bulbs / bulb housings + connectors ok and corrosion free, and the hazard works all 4 bulbs at normal speed...

I've tried tracing the wires back from the right hand switch housing, exposing the wires looking for wear or exposure or corrosion, only got as far as I can without taking the tank off but all ok... Pulling / jiggling the wires does nothing, the battery is relatively new and shows a full charge on the optimate in normal cycle time...

With the mot in three weeks time, I'm with you mr rugged...
 
Timgolgra - do you mean poor earth at the indicator bulb holders or maybe the pilot / main bulb? I don't know how the loom is designed... Just thought - I should check the battery terminals as well...

BTW - it's a 2000 1150 gs with a squillion miles on it, and yes it needs a wash, but it runs well and is my day to day donkey...
 
Can't be the earth as that I assume would also affect the hazard function. It is either a poor contact within the handlebar switchgear button or a fault within the relay for the part affected.


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One way to eliminate the earth question, fix a wire to a good earth and the other to the bulb carrier.
You'll be surprised how many times that's been the fault when all looks nice and clean.
 
Can't be the earth as that I assume would also affect the hazard function. It is either a poor contact within the handlebar switchgear button or a fault within the relay for the part affected.


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No the hazard function is a red herring, it has other earthing sources
 
Flat dog, I have had that problem with an individual bulb holder of an indicator in the past but, would that still effect the whole of one side ( both front, rear and direction arrow)?


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Flat dog, I have had that problem with an individual bulb holder of an indicator in the past but, would that still effect the whole of one side ( both front, rear and direction arrow)?


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TBH I don't know in your case, but by checking the individual indicators earth this way you eliminate it as the fault if nothing else.
 
Beware, it has springs inside that fly away never to be found again!!
 
Anybody have clear photos of what it looks like when removing the small backing plate to reveal the microswitches? And is it a one man job putting everything back in position being that backing plate before going it back?
I can imagine a lot of these assembly items in the factories when built used some form of jig.
HOGroast
Nantwich, Cheshire
 
I don't have any pics but If I recall there are 4 or 5 small torx (one hidden below silver sticker

There are no springs there are small sealed units

what you will probably find is that the rubber gaitor around the switch has rotted away (ever used WD40 in there?)!

Get another microswitch and replace it It is that simple, not the ABS one though as it is the reverse of what you need i.e.it is always made contact whereas you need a push to contact

All that that is in the actual switch is a spring a plastic cylinder that slides down (Button part) and two copper "tongues"

the tongues are held apart by a plastic blade across the cylinder "until" you press the switch at which point it moves down and the tops of the tongues make contact (initialising the indicators) and then contact is broken again until next time

IN your instance where they are not working at all I would think a tongue is so badly corroded it won't meet the other one when the blade slides down

The other instance where they go on by themselves is usually water shorting the terminals
 
There is only one small Spring, and it sits in a recess. The Spring is used for the detent on the Off-On-Off kill lever.

All the other levers push on the switches which are all self contained.

All will be revealed when you gently seperate the two parts of the assembly.

As the Doctor said, there are only two screws holding the assembly together, and one screw is hidden under the silver rectangular label.

:thumb2
Ian
 
Before you take it apart you could find a connector plug from the handlebar switches and then check for continuity. Almost certainly is the micro switch but sometimes easier to check with a meter first.
 


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