Same answer. Do it proper. (Thought it was only the 1100s that had 4 studs. Every day is a school day.
)
Best way to remove a broken manifold stud?
- Thread starter Bobbin-Man
- Start date
Same answer. Do it proper. (Thought it was only the 1100s that had 4 studs. Every day is a school day.
)
Same answer. Do it proper. (Thought it was only the 1100s that had 4 studs. Every day is a school day.
And while you're at it, you can check and replace valves. (Ask Dr Farkoff why!)
Bendy toy
Registered user
Has anyone here experimented with Titanium studs.
Non corrosive
Heat resistant.
Tensile strength higher than stainless steel
Not too expensive for just 4 studs.
Ti is worse than stainless for corrosion into aluminium and size for size it’s weaker than steel. Weight for weight it’s stronger but that’s irrelevant for fasteners.
Use OEM studs and lots of high temperature anti seize grease.
The way to go is taking the head off as mentioned.
Any drilling by hand will result in bodge job. Leave it to a machine shop for a proper job.
Any drilling by hand will result in bodge job. Leave it to a machine shop for a proper job.
Last year I had to drill two broken studs in the engine block
You could try to weld the nut on to a broken stud this way heat penetrates deep and this could help getting it out.
Didn't work in my case... studs where to corroded
So next step was drilling it out with quality cobalt drill bits.
Starting with small and working up as mentioned in the post above.
Doing this on the bench drill would be much better idea but impossible in my case.
ended up getting one out without damaging threads and taping other one to M12
good luck!
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You could try to weld the nut on to a broken stud this way heat penetrates deep and this could help getting it out.
Didn't work in my case... studs where to corroded
So next step was drilling it out with quality cobalt drill bits.
Starting with small and working up as mentioned in the post above.
Doing this on the bench drill would be much better idea but impossible in my case.
ended up getting one out without damaging threads and taping other one to M12
good luck!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not quite what the OP asked but entirely relevant to the subsequent repair.
This NASA research article will tell you all about nuts bolts washers and studs; the pros and cons of each type of material, adhesives such as loctite etc
Make yourself a cuppa and take a seat ....,
LINKY
Courtesy of Tony on the ‘Guzziriders’ forum. Here’s a screenshot of the contents.
This NASA research article will tell you all about nuts bolts washers and studs; the pros and cons of each type of material, adhesives such as loctite etc
Make yourself a cuppa and take a seat ....,
LINKY
Courtesy of Tony on the ‘Guzziriders’ forum. Here’s a screenshot of the contents.
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Bloody hell thats a lot of information to take in 
Thanks for that always handy to have ! And great to learn something a specially from NASA!
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Don't drill too deep. You'll soon find out if you do
Don't drill too deep. You'll soon find out if you do
Sound information
The plan so far ...
Soak in Plus Gas, and whilst that's happening ...
Lathe some small drill guides, probably 12mm OD with an M8 threaded recess to allow for what remains of the broken studs, through drilled to accept a drill bit. I'll probably need to make 3 in increasing diameters, e.g. bored 2mm, 4mm & 6mm. The original studs are 30mm long so it should then be straightforward to work out the max depth to drill to. If the broken studs won't then wind out I'll need to drill the final 7mm diameter by eye.
Well that's the plan anyway!
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Might just be my total thickness, but if you do not take them off, if you drill through or other do you not run the risk of metal shavings getting in somewhere they should not, and cause another problem later............
Titanium studs in ally are a bad idea. I have drilled many M7 x 1 Titanium screws out of Porsche split rims because of electrolysis.
If you do not have any luck with the 6 mm drill bit the 7 mm can very easily break through the thread and then it will follow a path into the softer material.
Even had this happen when set up in the Bridgeport mill.
The last 7 mm cut I would prefer to do on a machine with a cobalt end mill cutter and if the previous cut is a few thou off it can be corrected.
Even after boring the core out it is surprising how corroded in the threads can be when you come to pull them out like a spring.
If you do not have any luck with the 6 mm drill bit the 7 mm can very easily break through the thread and then it will follow a path into the softer material.
Even had this happen when set up in the Bridgeport mill.
The last 7 mm cut I would prefer to do on a machine with a cobalt end mill cutter and if the previous cut is a few thou off it can be corrected.
Even after boring the core out it is surprising how corroded in the threads can be when you come to pull them out like a spring.
I reckon a stainless stud with a brass nut is the answer... In fact i had two nuts on my 1150 that had sheered off and i thought that when i get around to sorting them i would remove all the studs. So i bought a load of ss studs and load of brass cap nuts. Still in the drawer!
The thinking is, that the stainless stud will do as you say, become a part of the head. But with a brass nut, it will actually provide a really sound, non-corroding fixing that you can always undo.
Don't bother with plus gas. Use Freeway, specifically designed to penetrate, used in the aircraft industry, magical stuff......,, and when reassembling use nickel paste, not copper. Much thicker and doesn't burn off or melt, good for 1300 degrees
Good thinking. I've found some brass closed nuts nearly identical to the o/e ones, although I suspect the o/e are chrome over steel. Do you recall whether the o/e studs are plain or waisted? If waisted is the plain section in the middle?
I've got boxes of stainless steel cap nuts identical to the original fittings. Never had any problems using them on the original studs, used to supply them in my stainless kits, never heard of any problems with anyone else using them and I must have sold hundreds over the years.
Waisted section plain steel, I used domed stainless nuts after the 'usual' problems with the 11r.
I
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Freeway ordered
The decision now is over steel or SS studs. Still to remove the old ones but might as well get the parts on the way! Neil do you stock the studs as well as the nuts?
Stu.
The decision now is over steel or SS studs. Still to remove the old ones but might as well get the parts on the way! Neil do you stock the studs as well as the nuts?
Stu.
I agree. The stainless cap nuts in most cases will do the job. I just had a chance to over think the problem
This is what I bought. ..
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mikethebike
Registered user
This gets my vote, i service and repair Bmw' s all the time and in fact i have an 1150gs in now with all four snapped at well as both spark plugs! The nut welded on is by far the best way but you must get the stud molten in the nut for a good weld, then a quick burst of nitrogen on the head near the threads and either an air gun or electric nut gun whizzes them straight out.
You'll find wd40, plus gas or anything similar is too thick in viscosity to enter the seized threads, i hate to say it because of the price but Wurth do the best thing for seized nuts and bolts/studs as it is made for 1 specific purpose whereas the others have either dual or multiple purposes like water dispersal, lubricating or cleaning properties. The Wurth one does nothing but creep into the tiniest places to "free " seized parts. If you have to drill and have a good vice that will hold the head. rather than paying engineers prices you can pick up a cheap benchtop pillar drill for around £50 then drill it like that, but a little tip is to use left hand drills that cut when the drill is reversed, more often than not before you get anywhere close to the thread you find that the anticlockwise motion and the heat produced will have them unscrewing on the drill bit. Have fun
Mick.
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