Front Cover Replacement - With pics

ferguscawley

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I changed the badly corroded front cover on my 2005 Gs1200 a few weekends ago. I bought a used cover from ebay for £70. It was corroded but nowhere near as bad as the one on my bike.

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I set to work on the ‘new’ cover, with some different sized wire-wheel attachments in a drill and cleaned off most of the corrosion, back to bare metal. I removed the old seal and the bearing also as I was going to replace these with new ones.

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I then sprayed on 2 coats of Halfords acid etch primer….

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…..followed by 2 – 3 coats of Hammerite smooth silver spray paint.

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I then got ready to change the covers. I removed the tank, engine bars, drained the oil, removed the alternator belt and the pulley.

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Then I removed the crankshaft position senor at the top of the cover

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The black plastic bearing cover was removed (4 bolts) and I spotted a 8mm bolt that holds the bearing onto the inner shaft. So that bolt was removed along with the heavy washer which grabs the inner bearing race and clamps it to the shaft.

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Removal of the case wasn’t easy but it eventually came off by tapping around the edge with a rubber hammer and by also tapping on the lower shaft piece that is supported by the bearing. There is a little lug at the top of the cover that is accessible with a small drift (when tank is removed).

Behind the cover looks like this

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Comparing the old and ‘new’ covers on the bench

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Fitting the new cover was easy. I put on a thin film of gasket sealer on the new cover and popped it in place (aligning the upper and lower locating dowels) and tapped it home with a rubber mallet. I had bought new stainless bolts M6 x 30mm from a local supplier and torqued them all down evenly. I refitted the crankshaft sensor, pulley and belt and black plastic cover.
Looks much better doesn’t it?

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Looks nice, I had mikeyboy powder coat mine whilst it was being serviced, improved it no end,




Bendy will be along in a minute to tell you you shouldn't have used stainless bolts, though that is what's in mine now
 
I have stainless. Just slather a good quality copper paste all the way up. I have no idea why it works so well but it does the job.
If you use powder coat check the screws after a few miles. The powder coat softens and they can work loose.

PS the image shows how these covers rot from under the alternator belt cover rather than from stone chips.
 
Great guide for the job.
Thanks
(only slight point... I contacted the manufacturer of hammerite and was told that it wasn't suitable for the job because it wouldn't cope with the heat changes... I hope this doesn't prove a weak point..)

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Great guide for the job.
Thanks
(only slight point... I contacted the manufacturer of hammerite and was told that it wasn't suitable for the job because it wouldn't cope with the heat changes... I hope this doesn't prove a weak point..)

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

So far so good. We'll see. The casing doesn't actually get too hot.

If it does eventually crack I can easily sand it off and repaint in-situ :thumb

Edit :

The paint data sheet (https://pinmarsupply.com/media/?wpdmdl=14965&ind=0) states the following:

Limits: Minus 20ºC (-4ºF) to 150ºC (300ºF) maximum intermittent when fully cured. Continuous 80ºC (180ºF) when fully cured.
Note: Colours may fade after prolonged exposure at temperatures exceeding 50ºC (120ºF).
 
Looking at the last two pictures, you will have to do the rest of the engine now to make it look equally nice :D

Very nice job and good pics in case I have to do the same at some stage. Thank for showing :beerjug:
 
Great writeup. Any volunteers for doing a similar one for an 1150GSA?

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
 
........PS the image shows how these covers rot from under the alternator belt cover rather than from stone chips.
Get the plastic cover off and ACF50 behind? My 05 had already got plenty of corrosion starting in 07 when I got it. Hoping to keep a lid on it with the next GS with pre-emptive protection.
 
I considered that but my cover was so far gone it wasn't worth the hassle.

My initial plan was to refurbish my original cover once I had done the swap and put it on ebay but to be honest it was beyond well-shagged.

Did you see the state mine was in :eek:
 
Great write up and photos. I have just done an in-situ front cover respray as I didnt want to take the full cover off. Didnt get as good results as you managed.
 
Cover removal is easy enough and you get to sort out the seized screws holding the upper belt cover in place.
If you don’t want to drain the engine oil, just park the front wheel on some bricks.
The OEM paint is mega hard. It has to be flatted for painting over but it does hide creeping corrosion so dipping and etch primer is the best option.
 


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