Gael warning on the Karakoram Highway

simondippenhall

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Following my circuit of Africa before COVID (“Gael warning in the Congo” etc) I intended to continue onward to the ‘Stans in 2020. However COVID and then Russia’s invasion of Ukraine put paid to that idea.

The attraction of the region remained and on the spur of the moment this summer I decided to plan a motorcycle trip to the Hindu Kush and Karakoram Highway. It’s no easy matter to get a motorcycle here….when I travelled through Iran in 2017 I was strongly discouraged from continuing through Baluchistan to get to Pakistan, and the need for an army escort reinforced that…so I left well alone.

An easier solution, I surmised, was to fly to Pakistan and use a small local bike, so that is what I have planned. Indeed, I am going a step further and going with a small group (not really my thing, so we will see how that goes ).

The target area:
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Whilst the bike would be provided and so I did not have to worry about that (at least for now), packing was fairly challenging as the temperature would range from 39/40C in Islamabad down to sub zero temperatures and the prospect of snow in the Hindu Kush high passes .

So I ended up with a huge variety of clothing layers:
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But with the invaluable help of the ‘Packing Queen’ aka my spouse of 40 years , chaos was rendered into order, with judicious use of packing cubes
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A wheelie suitcase doesn’t look very ‘adventure riderish’ but the advantage of travelling with others is that a luggage van will follow in support, so I won’t have to burden a local Suzuki 150 cc bike with all this range of clobber.

So departure planned for 1 October. Seems odd to be leaving as the beauty of an English autumn unfurls, with pumpkins in the field as I did a final cycle, and apples ripening in the garden.
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have a pleasant and most of all a safe journey Simon ….take care, all the best and I am looking forward to a great report.
 
Not jealous at all :)

We solved the problem of wild temperature variation between mountains and deserts with heated liner and gloves.
Not so easy with a borrowed bike :D
 
Bought a Klim Marrakesh off this forum to which I will add my old down under jacket and below that a Klim Zephyr windshirt and below that some heavy merino…if needed! Should be great crash protection
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Also packed me long johns!


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So with all the gear packed up, visa long ago obtained (in about 48 hours via the magical internet), appropriate jabs jabbed and helmet selection made (itself the subject of much debate with Drumacoon Lad)…the day of departure dawned.

A lovely, untypical October day spent outdoors. Youngest son and his puppy drove up from Bristol to have lunch and bid me farewell (does he know something I don’t?)
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Then he heads off back to Bristol and us to Heathrow, roof down on my wife’s Mini (I did say it was untypical for October!).

Whizzed through security having checked my crash helmet could come as hand luggage and so had a couple of hours to while away, pleasantly full of a Sunday roast lunch followed by home made apple and blackberry crumble (harvested by me).

There was a plane …always a good start!
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After a mediocre meal and a few hours kip, I woke to snow
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Seems I slept through breakfast which at 02:45 body time was probably a good decision. The pilot did a handbrake turn around Afghanistan and we were on our descent
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I entered a seemingly empty Islamabad airport and walked briskly a kilometre or so
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Only to round a corner to passport control…and a massive queue!. Anyway got to the end of the queue and did the passport thing….only to be redirected to another queue (for dodgy foreigners?).

Finally cleared all this and breezed through Customs (I should have brought that duty free single-malt after all ) to greet my bag shortly after and then Tabish who brought me to the guest house I am staying in until we head North on Wednesday. Good sized room, despite its alarmingly cracked wall

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And it’s only 8 am or so, so time to make plans!


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First order of business is to find an ATM to draw some Pakistan rupees, as I am told that it’s a cash only economy, at least outside Islamabad.

I ask the guest house doorman for directions and he suggests a nearby mall and says ‘wait’. Next thing a young lad from the kitchen jumps on his little moto and gives me a lift

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Unfortunately the mall is closed but I am allowed access to the ATMs. The only people in duty are the security guards, seen here getting their morning pep talk (I imagine)
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However the three ATMs all refuse either if my two cards so I wander home a little discouraged, regrouping over a breakfast of (spicy) omelette and paratha in my quarters.
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After taking more advice I walk in the other direction, to Jinnah Market, where I find a bank ATM that will give me cash. It seems that if I ‘walk 5 minutes more’ I will find a mobile shop that will sell me a local SIM card. It’s getting warm but I persevere, noting how small motorcycles are a big part of life here (as throughout Asia).

This guy us collecting recycling:
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The owner of this ‘Harley’ accepted my congratulations on his fine steed:
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The Ufone mobile shop is modern and air conditioned and after scanning my passport and visa the salesman gives me a SIM with 20 GB and unlimited voice for the not unreasonable sum of £4.03p. He assures me it will also work in the mountains (which I have been told is not the case so 8 May need to get another SIM in Gilgit, but this will do me for my time travelling in the ‘lowlands’).

SIM card fitted, I wander home for my weekly online Spanish class (we moved to Zoom during COVID and never returned to virtual). I am getting hungry and am tempted by the Crunchy Snake but settle for chicken and corn soup which is delicious (and also ).
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The phone is now working for calls but I cannot access data to use the internet…grrr! Three calls to the provider result in complete failure so I will need to walk back to the mobile shop tomorrow and get that sorted.


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You should have said you were flying Big Airways . Could have possibly got you a slightly less mediocre meal and a tad more leg room . PM me before you return


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Islamabad airport used to be utterly shambolic and early in the morning locals would turn up to claim all the baggage trolleys so they could then rip off visitors and ignore locals who needed to use them. I never got through in either direction in under 3hrs and I never got through without arguing with someone :D

Enjoy your holiday Simon :thumb2
 
Islamabad airport used to be utterly shambolic and early in the morning locals would turn up to claim all the baggage trolleys so they could then rip off visitors and ignore locals who needed to use them. I never got through in either direction in under 3hrs and I never got through without arguing with someone :D

Enjoy your holiday Simon :thumb2

It’s on my avoid list . Mainly because I nearly got blown up there in 2008.
Had a curry in the Marriott as we always did . The following night it was bombed .
Amazingly no crew had gone that night . We were heading home when we heard .
Not been back to Pakistan since and never will .


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You should have said you were flying Big Airways . Could have possibly got you a slightly less mediocre meal and a tad more leg room . PM me before you return


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Thanks Martin for the thought…dropped you a PM


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Andy: I realise I got away lightly….I was through in an hour and everyone was friendly and courteous . Impressed by how leafy and chilled Islamabad is, especially compared to many Indian cities I have been through. It brings to mind Canberra….an administrative capital but a comparatively small/quiet city. I imagine cities in Sindh and Punjab are very different

Walked up to the Faisal Mosque this morning after sorting the SIM out
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Earlier in the day I had an encounter that my fellow Irishmen will appreciate.
I was walking along to the phone shop when this chap sitting with his family said hello and asked me where I was from. I told him Dublin and he said: “Sure I’m from Cork!”. And indeed he was, born in Mallow and complete with the accent. Back here visiting family, he introduced me to his wife who I think was coming to Ireland for the first time so I warned her about the rain!
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Cork meets Dublin!


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This is great stuff, please keep it coming!

Hats off to Mrs Dip, that's black-belt quality packing!

Thanks Paul. My wife Kit was invited to come but having enjoyed the GS saddle around parts of Africa she was (understandably) not keen on riding pillion on a 150cc including cold and wet off-road .


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