New to me 2017 K1600GT Sport. Any tips for a new owner?

luckylucian

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Just picked up a 8,700 mile K1600GT Sport in blue 7 black. Any tips for a new owner? What to check now and what to look out for in the future?
 
Make sure radiator veins are kept clean. I hear these get clogged up with road grime, especially at this time of the year. Never owned one, but have had a go on a 11 plate. Lovely bit of kit. Enjoy.
 
Had a 2015 & ran it for a couple of years & put 30000m on it. I put a Wunderlich Ergo screen on as I ride all year & wanted a bit more protection. Screens are personal so may not suit you (I’m 6’ tall). Also fitted a short throw gear shift kit but if you have a quick shift you’ll be ok. Found Metzeler Roadtec 01’s excellent & got around 11000m on them. Keep an eye on pressures. Some people have said about oil consumption. I never had a problem & there is an odd way to check it. Bike on mainstand get engine warm until fan comes on. Turn engine off & after 1 minute look at the dipstick. I agree with keeping an eye on the rad although hosing it off when you clean it is usually fine. I found the OEM seat a bit narrow so got a Sargent seat. Big service is 18000 when the valves need checking. A lot of owners don’t tend to bother but if your bike is under warranty do it. Guy who serviced mine also looked after his brother’s K16 & an s1000rr which done nearly 100k-none of them ever had a valve issue.
That’s about it. Enjoy your bike. I loved mine & still think it was the best bike I’ve owned & I’ve had a few. I do too many miles so have gone over to the ubiquitous GS.
 
Another thing to note, the bike is a heavy lump, from memory circa 360kg, both my mate (who’s bike I rode) as well as @Wapping have mentioned that it does love to chew on rubber, more so than any other bike.
My mate would wear out the front tyre before the rear. He is a fast (and chubby) rider, so does not hang about through corners.
To digress a little.
In 2019, my mate and I rode to ExCel London bike show. Coming off the M25 at J27 for M11 southbound and through the carousel, he has leant it over so much, that he managed to grind away half of one of his spotlights, whilst I was peppered with bits of it and the road surface as I was riding behind him.
 
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A great bike the balance is excellent it’s a big bike
Tyres got 7130 out of mine and still tread left if you ride a k1600 it depends on how you ride it
 
Someone told me they did a track day & one of the instructors was on a K1600Gt. He said you knew he was coming up on you as he had jazz blaring out of the speakers.
I found the audio on mine was shite even though the previous owner had upgraded the speakers with Alpines & fitted a power amp in the top box.
I agree with the style of riding/tyre wear but my miles were mainly motorway, cruising at 70/75 & I got 11000 from the Metzelers before the shouldering got too much. Also got 50mpg which I thought was impressive for a such a big bike.
 
If you haven't done so already, join the marque forum ........... k1600forum.com/forum/uk-riders/

OK, the group is largely US based, but is a mine of detailed information on every aspect of the ownership proposition.

By 2017, most of the problems that emerged for early adopters (BMW beta testers) had been sorted.

They are a big old beast & easy to drop when low speed manoeuvring if you are short on the in-seam, so crash bars back & front should save damaging the expensive tupperware.
Cooling, with 6 tightly spaced cylinders, is marginal in traffic, so do make sure the rad lower section is kept clean as @EVskij mentions, ensuring the fan is cutting in correctly.
Oil level checking, with a dry sump system, is a strange art - do it by the book, as it is essential that you avoid overfilling.
 
I have owned the model, since it was first released in 2011.

Tyres. I have used Metzeler on every bike. In my experience, the front and the back tyres wear out simultaneously at a little over 4,000 miles. Top whack, 4,600 miles. The tyre wear is odd in that they will look fine at 3,900 miles and be badly gone 300 miles later.

This is using the bikes mainly on French, Belgian and German D-roads.

Bling? Nothing beyond a mesh seat cover.

Radiator. Keep it cleaned out.

Integrates well with Navigatir V and VI.

The reverse gear is excellent, as is the central locking of the keyless ride.
 
... and keep an eye on front wheel bearings (odd one I know !) Friend has had 3 sets on a 40,000 mile bike ... hard to believe.
 
Keep money for new tyres. Once the handling goes off (for me, anything after 3k), the front tyre will be phucked for sure. Up to now, I've always done front and back but I'm trying a different brand at the moment which is definitely lasting longer than the Metzelers or Michelins I had on before. Currently using Conti Roat Attack 4 GT and grip is as good as anything else I've had previously. As Wapping said, keep the rad clean of debris, make sure your tyres are at the recommended figure (42psi front and back) and enjoy....
 
I’d definitely agree with and repeat about watching the tyres. As in post #10, you will notice how, not so far after 3,000 miles, the bike starts to ‘track’ any uneven road surfaces. It’ll also ‘shimmy’ over white lines in the middle of the road. That’s the first tip off that wear is starting. After that, it’s a one way street to 4,000 miles.

How bods get 8,000 or whatever out of them is a mystery, at least to me.
 
Hi, have owned a 2017 gt model for over a year now, it has been a pleasure to own for 2 up trips be they uk days out or European road trips again 2 up. As with anything there are pluses and minuses and these are mine.
Pluses, it goes then goes again, the engine is awesome, once moving the weight vanishes into thin air, 2 up there are no complaints at all. The quick shift is very good, reverse function when required is a good function but I use it sparingly (see parking) I’m happy with standard screen and hand controls. Minuses, I’m 6ft 1 and the standard sitting and foot controls have needed my attention, I’ve fitted lowering pegs and have adjusted the quick shifter rod ends to get that sorted, I’m going to have to buy a second hand rear brake lever and adjust it ( this and many good ideas on forum mentioned above). Parking needs to be planned before stopping, it is heavy and cumbersome at crawling speeds if your not careful it will be over, I’m 16stone and quite happy to man handle it, but unlike my twin cam which is a doddle to man handle,the K needs you to be fully focused .
The radiator comes on very soon and often compared with other motorcycles but as long as you clean it through and realise its not designed for queues I’ve not found it an issue personally.
I’m more than happy with it, we toured the picos last year, it’s going to Corsica later in the year and as long as there’s a strip of tarmac under it I don’t think there will be a problem.
 
One tip.

BMW have never opted to make the radiator easier to get at to clean. Don’t blast the front of it with the hose, as this will simply bend the radiator’s delicate fins. Put an open ended hose at the top of the radiator and simply let the water pour down for a while. This will wash out most of the muck. Do it reasonably regularly and, by-and-large, the overheating problem will not happen.

Another tip.

The valve for the tyres is built into the spokes, sticking out at a right angle. Some garage forecourt air lines cannot make a purchase on the valve. Buy a cheap adaptor hose and keep it in the glove box. These hoses come in useful on other bikes too, whose valves are awkwardly placed.

Another tip.

Whilst it has big, central locking panniers, it is sometimes just convenient to sling something on the back seat and cover it with a cargo net. The trouble is that, for a very big bike, there are remarkably few places to hook a cargo net to. Put a couple of the cheap (but quite tidy) ‘hook / loops’ onto the bike.


I put mine onto the bike, by taking out a bolt which sits beneath the pillion’s grab rail, putting the loop on and replacing the bolt.

Another tip.

A front mudguard extender, can stop some of the road muck flying up into the radiator.

I am just trying to think what problems I have had since 2011. Note, these were more often than not on the 11 plate bike, some of which affected other BMW bikes, not in the K1600 class.

11 year - The classic pull to the left problem. This was never resolved. This was only noticeable if you take your hands off the bars
11 year -The classic ‘egg beater’ effect in the transmission at some rev’s
11 year - Left hand switch gear, not unique to 1600
11 year - Radiator cap, not unique to 1600
11 year - Leaking water pump
11 year - Overheating. This was before anyone realised that the radiator can get clogged
11 year - Stick coil started to give up the ghost, but this was only after 40,000 miles

Nothing much else in subsequent years models, except:

Recall to cure a possible problem with the reverse gear’s drive
Failed ECU, replaced under warranty
Broken wire on the quick shifter, preventing quick shifter operating

My latest 1600, with the big TFT screen, had real problems with leaking EMF radiation, sufficient to badly affect a GPS device. This was, I think, a fault with a batch of TFT screens. I did a post / thread on it. Fixed eventually under warranty, by changing TFT screens until we found one that didn’t do it.

I think my new bike also pulls to the left, when I take my hands off the bars. History is repeating itself.


…… rupturing my Achilles, lifting my latest 1600 onto its centre stand in Holland…
 
One tip.

BMW have never opted to make the radiator easier to get at to clean. Don’t blast the front of it with the hose, as this will simply bend the radiator’s delicate fins. Put an open ended hose at the top of the radiator and simply let the water pour down for a while. This will wash out most of the muck. Do it reasonably regularly and, by-and-large, the overheating problem will not happen.

Another tip.

The valve for the tyres is built into the spokes, sticking out at a right angle. Some garage forecourt air lines cannot make a purchase on the valve. Buy a cheap adaptor hose and keep it in the glove box. These hoses come in useful on other bikes too, whose valves are awkwardly placed.

Another tip.

Whilst it has big, central locking panniers, it is sometimes just convenient to sling something on the back seat and cover it with a cargo net. The trouble is that, for a very big bike, there are remarkably few places to hook a cargo net to. Put a couple of the cheap (but quite tidy) ‘hook / loops’ onto the bike.


I put mine onto the bike, by taking out a bolt which sits beneath the pillion’s grab rail, putting the loop on and replacing the bolt.

Another tip.

A front mudguard extender, can stop some of the road muck flying up into the radiator.

I am just trying to think what problems I have had since 2011. Note, these were more often than not on the 11 plate bike, some of which affected other BMW bikes, not in the K1600 class.

11 year - The classic pull to the left problem. This was never resolved. This was only noticeable if you take your hands off the bars
11 year -The classic ‘egg beater’ effect in the transmission at some rev’s
11 year - Left hand switch gear, not unique to 1600
11 year - Radiator cap, not unique to 1600
11 year - Leaking water pump
11 year - Overheating. This was before anyone realised that the radiator can get clogged
11 year - Stick coil started to give up the ghost, but this was only after 40,000 miles

Nothing much else in subsequent years models, except:

Recall to cure a possible problem with the reverse gear’s drive
Failed ECU, replaced under warranty
Broken wire on the quick shifter, preventing quick shifter operating

My latest 1600, with the big TFT screen, had real problems with leaking EMF radiation, sufficient to badly affect a GPS device. This was, I think, a fault with a batch of TFT screens. I did a post / thread on it. Fixed eventually under warranty, by changing TFT screens until we found one that didn’t do it.

I think my new bike also pulls to the left, when I take my hands off the bars. History is repeating itself.


…… rupturing my Achilles, lifting my latest 1600 onto its centre stand in Holland…
Comprehensive, very comprehensive advice and overview :clap
 
One tip.

BMW have never opted to make the radiator easier to get at to clean. Don’t blast the front of it with the hose, as this will simply bend the radiator’s delicate fins. Put an open ended hose at the top of the radiator and simply let the water pour down for a while. This will wash out most of the muck. Do it reasonably regularly and, by-and-large, the overheating problem will not happen.

Another tip.

The valve for the tyres is built into the spokes, sticking out at a right angle. Some garage forecourt air lines cannot make a purchase on the valve. Buy a cheap adaptor hose and keep it in the glove box. These hoses come in useful on other bikes too, whose valves are awkwardly placed.

Another tip.

Whilst it has big, central locking panniers, it is sometimes just convenient to sling something on the back seat and cover it with a cargo net. The trouble is that, for a very big bike, there are remarkably few places to hook a cargo net to. Put a couple of the cheap (but quite tidy) ‘hook / loops’ onto the bike.


I put mine onto the bike, by taking out a bolt which sits beneath the pillion’s grab rail, putting the loop on and replacing the bolt.

Another tip.

A front mudguard extender, can stop some of the road muck flying up into the radiator.

I am just trying to think what problems I have had since 2011. Note, these were more often than not on the 11 plate bike, some of which affected other BMW bikes, not in the K1600 class.

11 year - The classic pull to the left problem. This was never resolved. This was only noticeable if you take your hands off the bars
11 year -The classic ‘egg beater’ effect in the transmission at some rev’s
11 year - Left hand switch gear, not unique to 1600
11 year - Radiator cap, not unique to 1600
11 year - Leaking water pump
11 year - Overheating. This was before anyone realised that the radiator can get clogged
11 year - Stick coil started to give up the ghost, but this was only after 40,000 miles

Nothing much else in subsequent years models, except:

Recall to cure a possible problem with the reverse gear’s drive
Failed ECU, replaced under warranty
Broken wire on the quick shifter, preventing quick shifter operating

My latest 1600, with the big TFT screen, had real problems with leaking EMF radiation, sufficient to badly affect a GPS device. This was, I think, a fault with a batch of TFT screens. I did a post / thread on it. Fixed eventually under warranty, by changing TFT screens until we found one that didn’t do it.

I think my new bike also pulls to the left, when I take my hands off the bars. History is repeating itself.


…… rupturing my Achilles, lifting my latest 1600 onto its centre stand in Holland…
Compared to my VFR1200XC its a lightweight to put on its centre stand and thank you for the very useful advice, am ordering loops asap
 
I bought Wapping’s 2017 GT SE and absolutely love the bike. I did buy a service plan from Sycamore Motorrad in Witham which will include the valve clearance service this year. Good value in my opinion.
Tyres: the garage I used to fit the tyres had difficulty balancing the rear tyre and had to take it to a car mechanic to use their machine.
I have only occasionally used the radio so can’t really comment.
All in all a great, do anything bike. A lot of my miles have been done with a pillion and the difference is barely noticeable.
The engine is turbine-like and will pull from low speed in virtually any gear to license-shredding speeds without any difficulty.
Personally I wouldn’t bother putting (expensive) aftermarket exhaust cans on as the weight-saving would be negligible and I like the exhaust note. I’d be better off shedding a few kgs myself.
 
I too have recently changed from a 1200 GSA to a 2018 K1600GT SE. I love the engine and actually find it very nimble despite it's mass, I also find it easier to move around than the GSA as i'm totally flat footed on it.

The issue I have is that my wife does not like the bike as a pillion; although I think a lot of that is in her head as she loved the GSA. I went for a run on it one day, visited a dealer to look at the 1300GS (which I took for a test ride) but then for some unknown reason I left the GSA behind and came home with the K after 20 years of GS ownership. This was totally unplanned with no prior consultation with her, so I think that influenced her opinion before she ever sat on it.

Her gripes are:

I don't like the engine noise:nenau

I don't like the look of it

The suspension is harsh compared to the GSA (I agree with her on that, not harsh but much firmer)

There is more wind on her legs compared to the GSA (I can't comment on that but interested to hear if anyone else who moved from a GS to a K had the same comments from passengers)

Her only positive comment; I love the heated seat!

We are yet to take it on a long run, we would regularly do 500 mile days on the GSA which left my arse and knees in agony, but the K seat does feel more comfortable, I can't comment on knee issues yet as the longest run so far has only been about 130 miles but I had no issues with my knees, however a much longer run will be required to ascertain it's toll on my body as a whole.

I did look to put risers on it as I feel I was leaning too far forward and could potentially get aches in my shoulders, luckily I checked how they fit on the bike before ordering only to discover there was already a set fitted:blast So I do feel I would be more comfortable if they were a little further back and up.

Modifications made so far include; a much bigger screen as i'm 6'3 and found the top edge of the standard one was right in my eye line at full height, the bigger one puts it above the eye line so i'm looking through it. Based on reading up on the common issues of the bike I added a front mudguard extender to reduce the crud on the radiator.

I initially rode the bike around without the panniers and found that road crap just got thrown up all over the bike and passenger from the back end so they now stay on permanently. So the panniers have now had a protective film stuck on them, which was a good call as my wife without fail kicks them every time she gets on and off, she also did the same on the GSA so nothing new there but I was less precious about them as they were the alloy ones as opposed to the nicely painted K items.

I have also discovered that the previous owner has fitted one of those Hex EZcan things which seems to be linked to the loudest horn I've ever heard on a bike or car and to a set of auxiliary lights mounted on the lower forks which I really do not like the look of at all, these are linked to the main beam. The lights are probably the best of any bike I've ever owned.

So for now the jury is still out on whether it's a keeper or not, I just need to get some big miles on it both solo and two up before I can decide if it's a permanent GS replacement.
 


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