Just picked up a 8,700 mile K1600GT Sport in blue 7 black. Any tips for a new owner? What to check now and what to look out for in the future?
Comprehensive, very comprehensive advice and overviewOne tip.
BMW have never opted to make the radiator easier to get at to clean. Don’t blast the front of it with the hose, as this will simply bend the radiator’s delicate fins. Put an open ended hose at the top of the radiator and simply let the water pour down for a while. This will wash out most of the muck. Do it reasonably regularly and, by-and-large, the overheating problem will not happen.
Another tip.
The valve for the tyres is built into the spokes, sticking out at a right angle. Some garage forecourt air lines cannot make a purchase on the valve. Buy a cheap adaptor hose and keep it in the glove box. These hoses come in useful on other bikes too, whose valves are awkwardly placed.
Another tip.
Whilst it has big, central locking panniers, it is sometimes just convenient to sling something on the back seat and cover it with a cargo net. The trouble is that, for a very big bike, there are remarkably few places to hook a cargo net to. Put a couple of the cheap (but quite tidy) ‘hook / loops’ onto the bike.
I put mine onto the bike, by taking out a bolt which sits beneath the pillion’s grab rail, putting the loop on and replacing the bolt.
Another tip.
A front mudguard extender, can stop some of the road muck flying up into the radiator.
I am just trying to think what problems I have had since 2011. Note, these were more often than not on the 11 plate bike, some of which affected other BMW bikes, not in the K1600 class.
11 year - The classic pull to the left problem. This was never resolved. This was only noticeable if you take your hands off the bars
11 year -The classic ‘egg beater’ effect in the transmission at some rev’s
11 year - Left hand switch gear, not unique to 1600
11 year - Radiator cap, not unique to 1600
11 year - Leaking water pump
11 year - Overheating. This was before anyone realised that the radiator can get clogged
11 year - Stick coil started to give up the ghost, but this was only after 40,000 miles
Nothing much else in subsequent years models, except:
Recall to cure a possible problem with the reverse gear’s drive
Failed ECU, replaced under warranty
Broken wire on the quick shifter, preventing quick shifter operating
My latest 1600, with the big TFT screen, had real problems with leaking EMF radiation, sufficient to badly affect a GPS device. This was, I think, a fault with a batch of TFT screens. I did a post / thread on it. Fixed eventually under warranty, by changing TFT screens until we found one that didn’t do it.
I think my new bike also pulls to the left, when I take my hands off the bars. History is repeating itself.
…… rupturing my Achilles, lifting my latest 1600 onto its centre stand in Holland…
Compared to my VFR1200XC its a lightweight to put on its centre stand and thank you for the very useful advice, am ordering loops asapOne tip.
BMW have never opted to make the radiator easier to get at to clean. Don’t blast the front of it with the hose, as this will simply bend the radiator’s delicate fins. Put an open ended hose at the top of the radiator and simply let the water pour down for a while. This will wash out most of the muck. Do it reasonably regularly and, by-and-large, the overheating problem will not happen.
Another tip.
The valve for the tyres is built into the spokes, sticking out at a right angle. Some garage forecourt air lines cannot make a purchase on the valve. Buy a cheap adaptor hose and keep it in the glove box. These hoses come in useful on other bikes too, whose valves are awkwardly placed.
Another tip.
Whilst it has big, central locking panniers, it is sometimes just convenient to sling something on the back seat and cover it with a cargo net. The trouble is that, for a very big bike, there are remarkably few places to hook a cargo net to. Put a couple of the cheap (but quite tidy) ‘hook / loops’ onto the bike.
I put mine onto the bike, by taking out a bolt which sits beneath the pillion’s grab rail, putting the loop on and replacing the bolt.
Another tip.
A front mudguard extender, can stop some of the road muck flying up into the radiator.
I am just trying to think what problems I have had since 2011. Note, these were more often than not on the 11 plate bike, some of which affected other BMW bikes, not in the K1600 class.
11 year - The classic pull to the left problem. This was never resolved. This was only noticeable if you take your hands off the bars
11 year -The classic ‘egg beater’ effect in the transmission at some rev’s
11 year - Left hand switch gear, not unique to 1600
11 year - Radiator cap, not unique to 1600
11 year - Leaking water pump
11 year - Overheating. This was before anyone realised that the radiator can get clogged
11 year - Stick coil started to give up the ghost, but this was only after 40,000 miles
Nothing much else in subsequent years models, except:
Recall to cure a possible problem with the reverse gear’s drive
Failed ECU, replaced under warranty
Broken wire on the quick shifter, preventing quick shifter operating
My latest 1600, with the big TFT screen, had real problems with leaking EMF radiation, sufficient to badly affect a GPS device. This was, I think, a fault with a batch of TFT screens. I did a post / thread on it. Fixed eventually under warranty, by changing TFT screens until we found one that didn’t do it.
I think my new bike also pulls to the left, when I take my hands off the bars. History is repeating itself.
…… rupturing my Achilles, lifting my latest 1600 onto its centre stand in Holland…