So I have this old 1150 GS

[twizzle]

He’s wasting a great winter bike…

 

[Micky]

Looks a great job on that wheel Rick

Will sort out a couple of hours in the day that's suitable and I'll pop up for a cup of brown frothy liquid (coffee) and have a look.

As Johnnyboy above says ... it's therapeutic ... and addictive

 

[KMD]

I’m also in the process of tidying up a cosmetically challenged 1150, same colour as yours. I got the wheels as good as they could be using elbow grease but they aren’t as clean as yours, still quite a few signs of corrosion. I was considering a full refurb with Thersby Wheel Repair but it would cost £500 apiece. Then a nice chap from Newcastle advertised a lovely set of 1100S wheels which were much more affordable.

So they will be going on together with a full set of Tesco coloured bodywork and tank. Should keep me occupied in the garage for a weekend.

Motorcycle Wheel Repair | Thersby Group | England

Motorcycle wheel repair in Stockton on Tees

www.thersbywheelrepair.co.uk

 

[crumbles]

I cleaned my wheels with an electric toothbrush and toothpaste..

 

[RedRick Esq.]

I cleaned my wheels with an electric toothbrush and toothpaste..

I used toothbrush and Solvol
I wish I had thought of the electric toothbrush

 

[albatross]

How about the Sonic brush…good tool

 

[Ian J Hartley]

I clean my wheels with just soap and water, because I know that to attack them with any abrasive compound will remove the thin layer of anodising on the aluminium which is there to protect them from corrosion.

 

[RedRick Esq.]

This is getting real now and I now have some concerns !

The sheathing on the wiring is all very brittle so needs replacing which will be a test as I steer clear of electrics as much as humanly possible

Every time a strip a bit I feel I need to strip more and that is also a concern as sooner or later I will have to put it all back together again

 

[Ian J Hartley]

You’ll not be able to replace the plastic sleeving without de-pinning the connectors. Not to be even attempted with out correct extraction tools. This also rules out the use of heat shrink tubing.

So your options are either water proof fabric tape which the OEM use on the main wiring harness, or self vulcanising tape. Both items readily available.

 

[Neil W]

When I sorted my early 1999 red 1150 last year what started as a small amount of the wiring loom wrapping breaking up ended up with me stripping all of the loom from front to rear and using a couple of rolls of self amalgamating electrical tape to re bind the entire thing

 

[RedRick Esq.]

When I sorted my early 1999 red 1150 last year what started as a small amount of the wiring loom wrapping breaking up ended up with me stripping all of the loom from front to rear and using a couple of rolls of self amalgamating electrical tape to re bind the entire thing

I think this will be my solution although I dont really want to do the whole harness

 

[KMD]

I was about to point you in the direction of NeilW’s thread re his Marrakesh Red (I think) R1150Gs where he had to replace all the sheathing with amalgamating tape, but I see he has pitched in.

Im in the same position and have replaced some. But when the tank comes off mine and the bodywork is removed, I’ll be going front to back removing the perished sheath and securing with tape.

 

[RedRick Esq.]

Having taken the tank off ( it will probably need a pro paint job as there are some bad scratches that upset my OCD ) Some quick release fuel line connectors are on the shopping list and I have a big sign on the garage door that says do not smoke in here for at least a week

But whilst the tank is off I have the pump and filter thing out as well so may as well change them so added to the ever lengthening list

That bottom fork brace is bothering me too as it looks a tricky and quite expensive bit to replace and equally tricky to take off to refurb - Anyone any tips on refurb in situ ?

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

When I sorted my early 1999 red 1150 last year what started as a small amount of the wiring loom wrapping breaking up ended up with me stripping all of the loom from front to rear and using a couple of rolls of self amalgamating electrical tape to re bind the entire thing

Why did you chose that over loom tape? Loom tape is a lot easier to work with and does a very nice job of doing what it's designed for.

 

[Paul Young]

That bottom fork brace is bothering me too as it looks a tricky and quite expensive bit to replace and equally tricky to take off to refurb - Anyone any tips on refurb in situ ?

Taking it off isn’t too bad, but it needs a modified socket to refit it. I’ve got a modified one I can lend if it’s any help. The most difficult part is removing the big nut that holds the pivot in the bridge, so I’d avoid touching that and just work around it in situ. Wire brush, sand and paint with Hammerite smooth silver.

Mine looks a bit ratty these days, but I got hold of a really nice s/h one about 20yrs ago. Now sitting in a box in the garage for the day I can’t look at the old one any more.

 

[RedRick Esq.]

Why did you chose that over loom tape? Loom tape is a lot easier to work with and does a very nice job of doing what it's designed for.

Loom Tape !

Brilliant I knew there would be something just for the job ( im just a numpty that didnt know what it was called) and have been looking at all sorts of stuff Self Amalgamating, heat shrink tape you name it but google loom tape and jobs a carrot

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Why did you chose that over loom tape? Loom tape is a lot easier to work with and does a very nice job of doing what it's designed for.

Loom tape while waterproof, is not really designed for cable looms where there is a lot of flexing involved, it‘s bonding breaks down with flexing over time and as it’s exposed, it gets dirty easily, which is why the OEM use tubing so that the wires can move inside the tubing.

Self Amalging tape stretches and bonds to its self as you wrap it around the loom. Because it’s rubber based it flexes easily and because it bonds to itself forms a completed waterproof wrap. It’s also easy to keep clean.

 

[sparkplug]

Having taken the tank off ( it will probably need a pro paint job as there are some bad scratches that upset my OCD )

I have the exact same tank which I removed from my bike nearly 20 years ago. I'll have a look to see if it has any scratches or not but you're welcome to it for less than the cost of a respray and decals.

 

[RedRick Esq.]

I have the exact same tank which I removed from my bike nearly 20 years ago. I'll have a look to see if it has any scratches or not but you're welcome to it for less than the cost of a respray and decals.

Wow thats a great offer but
i have just dropped the tank off at the painters and as i was happy to wait a good while ( 2 or 3 months - im in no hurry) they are doing it including new decals which will be under the laquer for a reasonable £200 ( i think its reasonable anyway )

 

[sparkplug]

No worries - sounds like a good price to be honest.

However, if they drop and ding it you know where to find a spare!

Should probably get it cleaned up and put up for sale really. I'm not going to be needing it any time soon...