Alanotek
Registered user
Hi, probably been posted before but here's what I learned yesterday getting my neighbours GS Started.
QUICK SUMMARY:
1) You need a T9 Torx in your toolkit (Most kits start at T10). It needs to be narrow as the switch screws are up a deep hole.
2) The handlebar cluster switches tend to fail in pushed in position - if your buttons stick in they are going, get the complete cluster changed by BMW free of charge (out of warrantee but) as not merchantable quality ASAP or they may suddenly let you down.
I THINK THE INFO TRUE BUT USE THE INFO AT YOUR RISK - PROBABLY SIMILAR ON OTHER BM MODELS BUT CHECK FIRST
LONG STORY (Wiring details and work emergency work around included and starter relay info)
My neighbours lives down a steep narrow lane (30%), dead end, He started bike, drove out of garage turned it off then it wouldn't start. No clicking of start relay, he charged battery etc. No possibility of bump start, drive too steep to get any recovery vehicle up other than 4x4 pickup with tail lift or something !
The display was stuck in SETUP and the button to move out of SETUP felt odd so we thought the pushed in button was causing an ECU error or something. Opened the left switch cluster (2 x T9 screws accessed from underneath). The button was stuck in and I could gently free it and get the display out of setup mode but no start function.
Next step starter button - my neighbour attacked the rocker part and forced it out without unscrewing the right cluster, he managed with a bit of force to get it out undamaged but I wouldn't recommend it, its better to remove the lower cover by unscrewing the 1 x T9 underneath, remove another screw to disconnect the upper part from the handlebars and 2 (?) screws to take off the top cover (including the 'physical' buttons). My neighbour then attacked the switch - the actual electrical switches are small tactile cheap plastic and rubber construction, most including the starter are just push in sprung loaded to, in theory, return to unpushed (open) position - this sends a message to ECU to do its things. Anyway in trying to pull the start switch out he not only damaged both the starter and kill switches beyond any possible temporary repair he also pulled off both switches including the printed circuitry attached to the buttons ! My advice is if its not possible to jiggle the button free with the rocker switch, is, as above is to dismantle the right cluster and gently free the switch and hopefully it will work at least one push to get you home/to dealer. Next stage would be to carefully take the switch itself apart so you can access the internal metal contacts and push them together or something similar.
GETTING IT GOING WITHOUT STARTER SWITCH (USING RELAY)
We first thought of just connecting to the start relay (located under left lower black cover opposite side to battery). The always live (red) and output to starter are visible but located behind the frame - a bit awkward to access - it should be possible to just connect between these 2 cables with some thick wire - proceed with caution - expect a load of sparks etc - we didn't risk it. Instead a more sophisticated (but hard to do) method is to power the input to the relay - this is accessed by removing the small plug on the front of the relay (small flat screwdriver to lift tap to release). The female pins are impossible to see so we released the relay to twist it (remove cable connector on the top and a metal clip, disconnect thick output cable to starter, careful not to short live !). I put 2 computer jumper wires on the pins. Put starter cable back. Connect rear pin to earth on frame and the front touched to the thick red cable terminal and bingo the starter motor worked. Unfortunately as my neighbour had destroyed the kill switch - it wouldn't fire however if just started switch not working this method would work.
GETTING IT GOING WITHOUT SWITCH CLUSTER (MODIFY THE DAMAGED SWITCH or CONNECT TO PINS).
If the switch is so damaged that any above method does not work its possible to do another work around to the right cluster or connector. The Cluster is connected to the wiring with a 6 pin connector (released by pushing the little 'barb' on the front with a 'point')
If you look in the connector (in good light) the pins are numbered 1 to 6, 1 is front as in the bike, left as you look at the connector, 6 rear right.
You need the 'unkilled' mode to be activated by connecting pin 2 & 3 (permanently) and by touching pin 1 to either 2 or 3 will start the engine - release pin 1 when its going !
I couldn't access the pins easily as they are so small and close together - the jumpers were too large. As the switch was damaged I just dug out the blue sealer behind the male part of switch connector and put a dob of solder between the soldered joint equivalent to connector pins 2 & 3, reconnected the switch to the connector and touched a small screwdriver between soldered joint to pins 1 & 2 and it started.
OTHER COMMENTS/INFO
As you may guess I've GS too and now realise I've similar problems on left side - my hazard flasher button sticks - not a big problem but embarrassing - work around = don't use it, but I'll be contacting BM for a replacement - I think I've only pushed the button 3 times and its failing ! The part doesn't look at all repairable, tiny plastic thing bonded to printed circuit and tiny barbs hold it to the housing.
I understand there is a new part numbers for the switches but not sure if/how much better new parts are.
Ordered a T9 - 40 tool kit and may try and find some miniature female jumper type leads so I can do the above method but just connecting the wiring connector.
Kill switch when pushed unlike (all?) the others stays latched physically in but an open electrical position and the switch closes the contacts when the start part of the rocker switch is pushed. As I understand it the switches a just inputs to ECU, guess that’s why they are low current tiny things. The ECU decides what to do depending on it state (number of timed buttons pressed and condition of other switches, side stand, clutch, neutral or whatever) and it sends a signal out - in this case current to the starter relay. Makes it impossible to do an old fashioned continuity check.
Local BMW dealers would not release any wiring details, even in such a complicated breakdown situation – it’s on software and not available to people who have spent 15k on their products. This caused me many hours reverse engineering - inspecting the tiny broken printed circuit strip! I could not find any wiring info for 2013 models online just previous - anyone any access prepared to share info would be a great help.
HOPE YOU DON'T NEED THIS BUT MAY HELP SAVE TIME IF YOU DO
Alan
QUICK SUMMARY:
1) You need a T9 Torx in your toolkit (Most kits start at T10). It needs to be narrow as the switch screws are up a deep hole.
2) The handlebar cluster switches tend to fail in pushed in position - if your buttons stick in they are going, get the complete cluster changed by BMW free of charge (out of warrantee but) as not merchantable quality ASAP or they may suddenly let you down.
I THINK THE INFO TRUE BUT USE THE INFO AT YOUR RISK - PROBABLY SIMILAR ON OTHER BM MODELS BUT CHECK FIRST
LONG STORY (Wiring details and work emergency work around included and starter relay info)
My neighbours lives down a steep narrow lane (30%), dead end, He started bike, drove out of garage turned it off then it wouldn't start. No clicking of start relay, he charged battery etc. No possibility of bump start, drive too steep to get any recovery vehicle up other than 4x4 pickup with tail lift or something !
The display was stuck in SETUP and the button to move out of SETUP felt odd so we thought the pushed in button was causing an ECU error or something. Opened the left switch cluster (2 x T9 screws accessed from underneath). The button was stuck in and I could gently free it and get the display out of setup mode but no start function.
Next step starter button - my neighbour attacked the rocker part and forced it out without unscrewing the right cluster, he managed with a bit of force to get it out undamaged but I wouldn't recommend it, its better to remove the lower cover by unscrewing the 1 x T9 underneath, remove another screw to disconnect the upper part from the handlebars and 2 (?) screws to take off the top cover (including the 'physical' buttons). My neighbour then attacked the switch - the actual electrical switches are small tactile cheap plastic and rubber construction, most including the starter are just push in sprung loaded to, in theory, return to unpushed (open) position - this sends a message to ECU to do its things. Anyway in trying to pull the start switch out he not only damaged both the starter and kill switches beyond any possible temporary repair he also pulled off both switches including the printed circuitry attached to the buttons ! My advice is if its not possible to jiggle the button free with the rocker switch, is, as above is to dismantle the right cluster and gently free the switch and hopefully it will work at least one push to get you home/to dealer. Next stage would be to carefully take the switch itself apart so you can access the internal metal contacts and push them together or something similar.
GETTING IT GOING WITHOUT STARTER SWITCH (USING RELAY)
We first thought of just connecting to the start relay (located under left lower black cover opposite side to battery). The always live (red) and output to starter are visible but located behind the frame - a bit awkward to access - it should be possible to just connect between these 2 cables with some thick wire - proceed with caution - expect a load of sparks etc - we didn't risk it. Instead a more sophisticated (but hard to do) method is to power the input to the relay - this is accessed by removing the small plug on the front of the relay (small flat screwdriver to lift tap to release). The female pins are impossible to see so we released the relay to twist it (remove cable connector on the top and a metal clip, disconnect thick output cable to starter, careful not to short live !). I put 2 computer jumper wires on the pins. Put starter cable back. Connect rear pin to earth on frame and the front touched to the thick red cable terminal and bingo the starter motor worked. Unfortunately as my neighbour had destroyed the kill switch - it wouldn't fire however if just started switch not working this method would work.
GETTING IT GOING WITHOUT SWITCH CLUSTER (MODIFY THE DAMAGED SWITCH or CONNECT TO PINS).
If the switch is so damaged that any above method does not work its possible to do another work around to the right cluster or connector. The Cluster is connected to the wiring with a 6 pin connector (released by pushing the little 'barb' on the front with a 'point')
If you look in the connector (in good light) the pins are numbered 1 to 6, 1 is front as in the bike, left as you look at the connector, 6 rear right.
You need the 'unkilled' mode to be activated by connecting pin 2 & 3 (permanently) and by touching pin 1 to either 2 or 3 will start the engine - release pin 1 when its going !
I couldn't access the pins easily as they are so small and close together - the jumpers were too large. As the switch was damaged I just dug out the blue sealer behind the male part of switch connector and put a dob of solder between the soldered joint equivalent to connector pins 2 & 3, reconnected the switch to the connector and touched a small screwdriver between soldered joint to pins 1 & 2 and it started.
OTHER COMMENTS/INFO
As you may guess I've GS too and now realise I've similar problems on left side - my hazard flasher button sticks - not a big problem but embarrassing - work around = don't use it, but I'll be contacting BM for a replacement - I think I've only pushed the button 3 times and its failing ! The part doesn't look at all repairable, tiny plastic thing bonded to printed circuit and tiny barbs hold it to the housing.
I understand there is a new part numbers for the switches but not sure if/how much better new parts are.
Ordered a T9 - 40 tool kit and may try and find some miniature female jumper type leads so I can do the above method but just connecting the wiring connector.
Kill switch when pushed unlike (all?) the others stays latched physically in but an open electrical position and the switch closes the contacts when the start part of the rocker switch is pushed. As I understand it the switches a just inputs to ECU, guess that’s why they are low current tiny things. The ECU decides what to do depending on it state (number of timed buttons pressed and condition of other switches, side stand, clutch, neutral or whatever) and it sends a signal out - in this case current to the starter relay. Makes it impossible to do an old fashioned continuity check.
Local BMW dealers would not release any wiring details, even in such a complicated breakdown situation – it’s on software and not available to people who have spent 15k on their products. This caused me many hours reverse engineering - inspecting the tiny broken printed circuit strip! I could not find any wiring info for 2013 models online just previous - anyone any access prepared to share info would be a great help.
HOPE YOU DON'T NEED THIS BUT MAY HELP SAVE TIME IF YOU DO
Alan
