Dellis
Registered user
Dellis & Blondie’s Scandinavian Adventure or get up, ride, stop, erect tent, eat drink, sleep and repeat with a couple of overnight ferries thrown in for good measure. This was never intended to be anything other than a road trip to The North Cape but we did manage a tour round The Lofoten Islands and a visit to the Viking museum while we were there.
The story started some thirty years ago when a Belgium friend of mine returned from his trip to The North Cape showed me his photographs and shared his tales of the journey north from Liege, I was hooked and wanted to go from that moment on but somehow something always got in the way, as things tend to, but last year I was determined that 2012 would be the year I’d make it. I shared my plans with my father early in 2011 who had known of my yearning to head north for all the thirty years I’d been wanting to get there, he pulled my leg saying “have you not got there yet!”. Sadly he’s not around now to see me realise my ambition.
Make a brew or get yourself a beer, this goes on a bit.
Friday 31st August
Home via Harwich – The North Sea 297 miles
I stayed at my place on Thursday night to give Blondie a bit of time to sort herself out prior to our trip so I had to ride to her house on Friday morning. At the end my drive I can turn either way and it’s the same distance, around 9 miles, I decided that right would be good. After about half a mile the road had been freshly resurfaced with a nice thick layer of very loose chippings that went on for the next three miles, after the chippings and almost as soon as I got going I came across a herd of cattle crossing after morning milking, a large herd at that! Off I go again and a mile further on the road is closed…. After a detour I arrive at Blondie’s we make a few minor luggage adjustments and set off just after 10am. Hopefully this won’t set the scene for our trip.
We had all day so went the more ‘scenic’ route stopping off for a bit of lunch at the café on the A47 by Guyhirn just outside Ken Thomas Transport as was. A company I worked for a dozen or so years ago and while we were having lunch we bumped into John Thomas my old boss. We had a bit of a catch up and I had a look round his vintage lorry collection which dates from the 1940’s to the 1970’s all of which are pristine. We set off again heading via Downham Market, Thetford and Woolpit where we joined the dull A14.
A couple of John’s lorries
We arrived at the ferry terminal in good time, checked in and we were soon loaded. A quick nosey at our cabin and off for dinner which was good but reassuringly expensive at £75 for the two of us, that did include 4 pints of Carlsberg. Another couple of beers in the lounge listening to a guy with a guitar and a box of tunes banging out songs from Bob Marley to Dire Straits with a bit of country thrown in. Bed with thoughts of the next couple of weeks was next….
Blondie tucking into dinner
Saturday 1st September
The North Sea via Esbjerg – Orkelljunga, Sweden 281 miles
Blondie is not a good sailor, didn’t have a great nights sleep and this morning complained that I was snoring all night and that the boat was “going up and down like a bride’s drawers”
Anyway I had a good night’s sleep and woke around 8am. We headed off for breakfast which after dinner was actually pretty good value at just over £12 each. The weather looked reasonable with blue skies doing their best to make a showing. We were both looking forward to the rest of the day blatting east on the Danish motorways….
Our cabin
The boat docked on time and we were off for just after 1pm and after passing through Esbjerg we joined the motorway heading east for Sweden until junction with the E45 which I managed to join in error and a road we’d be spending a lot of time on in the next couple of days, a 16 km detour saw us heading east again. Other than being stuck on the motorway all was going well until we came to a queue of standing traffic which turned out to be over 20 km long and due to a cycle race being held over the bridge from Nyborg to Korsor and the bridge only having a single carriageway open to general traffic.
The bridge
We filtered our way through the standing traffic with plenty of hitch hiking thumbs from the stranded motorists and carried on along the motorway until about 6 pm when we started to look for a campsite, we easily found one put the tent up and settled down to dinner of curry and rice washed down with a couple of beers.
Cooking up dinner
Sunday 2nd September
Orkelljunga to Ostersund, Sweden 582 miles
We had a nice early start that soon turned wet, the first 160 km were on the motorway then onto the national roads and the E45 which was to be our main road north. The E45 started as it meant to go on; trees, Volvos, trees – you get the idea. We stopped for petrol and a coffee and met a couple of guys on KTM Super Enduros who were trying to convince me that the best route north had to be gravel, gravel and more gravel this passed an interesting half hour or so then back to the E45 where I realised a couple of things; Sweden is BIG, there are a lot of trees in Sweden, there are a lot of Volvos in Sweden, and after stopping to do our shopping the strongest beer you can buy in a Swedish supermarket is 3.5% (including Hobgoblin with which I didn’t bother) and every community large enough to get away with being called a town has a McDonalds.
We found a campsite pitched up and set about dinner which tonight was a selection of cured meats followed by spaghetti bolognaise washed down with a few beers then off to bed ready for another early start.
Swedish straight roads
The sprint north was the part of the journey I’d been looking forward to least, long straight roads, nothing but trees, I’m sure you get the idea but in reality I enjoyed it.
Our pitch for the night
Monday 3rd September
Ostersund to Karesuando, Swedish/Finnish Border 575 miles
Before we kicked off
On the bike
More straight roads
After breakfast of rice pudding, bought by me thinking it was yoghurt, we headed off for more of the same – E45, Volvos, trees however today was going to be the day we crossed the Arctic Circle. When we reached the point we pulled over for the obligatory photo and ploughed on. Not much more to say apart from the further north the faster the traffic, further south most cars were travelling around 110kph by the end of today the norm was nearer 125kph with a few going a lot quicker. We stuck to around 120kph and hardly deviated until we came across a town, at this speed the KTM was returning over 45mpg.
The Arctic Circle
We had planned to stop about 100 miles earlier than we did but the only campsite we could find was derelict so we plodded on following a couple of camping signs that came to nothing. Eventually we came to the border with Finland and a small family run farm site with loads of huts and a small space for tents we pitched up, were attacked by hoards of mosquitos which we dealt with using copious amounts of Deet. I set about dinner this time it was chilli and rice washed down with a couple of 3.5% beers.
Tuesday 4th September
Karesuando to Olderfjord, Norway via North Cape 417 miles
Another early start and the final push to the North Cape. We crossed the border to Finland and I moderated my speed after being warned that the Finnish have a more stringent approach speeding compared to the apparent liberal views in Sweden. We then crossed into Norway and speeding paranoia set in, 80kph is sooo slow, after what seemed an eternity I was passed by a local vehicle like I was stood still! I followed and was amazed that he seemed to be happy sitting at 115kph but after a while he turned off, I lost my bottle and returned to the limit which was now a heady 90kph so not quite as bad.
Finland
Norway at last
We stopped at Karasjok for fuel and some lunch, by now the scenery was more rugged, still trees but the more hardy looking small type, we continued north eventually seeing the first signs for the North Cape.
The run up to The North Cape – before the rain
The last 80 km or so the road became more open and the weather turned, I was going to say for the worse but it seemed somehow appropriate that it was howling a gale and showering with rain. Having been filled with horror stories of the costs involved with the last few km to the cape I was pleasantly surprised to find that the toll tunnel onto Mageroya was now free and according to the note in the window had been since late June of this year on we went, the roads getting more interesting especially with the gale force winds, an otter crossing the road in our path and numerous reindeer to add a bit of spice then we were there, well we were at the pay booth that blocks your path 400 metres before our destination. The second pleasant surprise of the day was that there was nobody there to take our money and we rode onto the parking area not a penny poorer. For me arriving at the North Cape was full of some very mixed thoughts.
The North Cape
The weather was still pretty bad but we had a nose around, took a couple of photographs, bought a coffee and buggered off. We thought we might like to camp fairly close by but the wind was severe so we headed south to Olderfjord and set up camp. We made use of the campsite kitchen and I knocked up burgers and salad washed down with a few beers this time the stronger Norwegian variety and spent the evening chatting to a group of guys cycling to the North Cape. Oh and we’re now over 50mpg!
Camp for the night
Wednesday 5th September
Olderfjord to Birtawarre, Norway 216 miles
The journey north was always going to be a sprint and the journey south a saunter so with this in mind we had a late start. We continued to head south on the E6 which although scenic in places was way too straight to be saddled with an 80kph/90kph speed limit. After miles of rugged open country the scenery started to change and soften with mountains, fjords and even the odd glacier, the further south the better it was. All in all it was a bit of a strange day but we enjoyed ourselves and the pace was now decidedly less pressured.
Spot the Troll
Heading south
Lunch
Been there got the T shirt
Blondie relaxing
After a few hundred km we found a campsite at Birtawarre and pitched up, a nice spot at the end of an inlet. We had a beer and it was dinner, this time meatballs carrots and spuds washed down with a few beers. Beer is pricey but supermarket prices are around the same as expensive UK pub prices or around £20 for six 500ml tins.
The campground after we’d packed up
Thursday 6th September
Birtawarre to Stokmarknes, Norway 271 miles
We awoke to heavy rain so waited for things to ease off before packing up and continuing on the E6, we’d only been moving for twenty minutes or so and it started to pour with rain this continued for what seemed like an eternity but in reality about 100km when we had a stroke of luck; we stropped to fill the bike with juice and I could see a guy with a remote control changing the prices of the various grades of fuel, up obviously, anyway I went in to pay and found that I was the last fill up of the day on the old prices, a little victory on what was a pretty miserable day so far. Onwards with the journey south.
The junction of the E6 and E10 was a tricky one, I really wanted to go to the Lofoten Islands but the weather was terrible, pouring with rain again and about 4 deg C so not really that pleasant, should we cut our losses and take the E6 south or take a chance on the Lofoten Islands? The Lofoten won and I turned right onto the E10 stopping after a few km for something to eat and a thaw out. After half an hour or so we carried on, the rain had eased, still freezing cold but just drizzle now.
Heading onto the islands
As we rode the scenery just got better and better after every turn there was something new mountains, bridges, waterfalls and more. Things were really perking up it even stopped raining and rose to the dizzy heights of 8 deg C but I was enjoying myself too much and I had neglected to take note of how far we’d travelled, I was running out of fuel and couldn’t make the next fuel station which was at Svolvaer. I’ve read Jupiter’s Travels and I know running out of fuel is not the end of the world however it is to Blondie… We were near Fiskebol and looking on the GPS a short ferry journey would allow us to get some juice so that where we headed. I tried to scrounge some petrol at the ferry dock but had no luck so we ended up taking the ferry and getting off at Hadsel. I managed to get 19 litres in and I know you can get just under 19.5 litres when bone dry, you really don’t need to know how I found that out – well go on then, when the bike was new I ran out twice in the same weekend, I did have a GSA before the KTM and wasn’t used to the significantly smaller tank… Anyway this meant we’d had only five or six miles before spluttering to a halt so I’d done the right thing.
On the ferry
We found a nice little campsite in a wood and pitched up for the night to the sound of gunfire, there was a bit of hunting going on but it sounded like a battlefield, I have no idea what was being hunted but didn’t fancy its chances much at all. Back to our routine this time it was spaghetti bolognaise washed down with a few beers, this is getting a little predictable… The night ended in rain but we’d had a good time.
Our camp
Washing down
Blondie’s beer holder
Friday 7th September
Stokmarknes – Norskehavet, Norway 218 miles
We awoke to rain again so gave it a little time to clear up then packed up leaving the campsite and heading off around the island continuing in the same direction as we’d arrived at the campsite effectively riding round the whole island of Hadseloya before catching the ferry back to Lofoten where my decision to take the ferry was proven to be a good one. We would have had no chance of getting to the next fuel which was in Svolvaer getting on for 20 km away.
On the way to Svolvaer I spotted an idyllic campsite and suggested to Blondie that we might head back there later in the day which we did but not before we set about the Lofoten. It is simply stunning, fantastic views in every direction, beautiful villages, a very nice place indeed. Today we had half a plan having heard that there was a Viking museum at Borg so headed there the weather was improving I could even see a bit of blue sky!
Heading to the Viking Museum
We arrived at the museum and spent a couple of hours browsing the exhibits and trying on Viking helmets in the reconstructed longhouse. Well worth a visit if you find yourself on Lofoten.
The Viking Museum
We left the museum and didn’t even have to put our waterproofs on, the blue sky was spreading and the sun even made an appearance, for a brief moment I even considered leaving my heated vest unplugged but thought better of it. We left and headed south aiming for the village of A which is as far south as you can ride on the archipelago. We’d already decided to either ride off the islands back the way we came on or jump on a ferry further north rather than taking on of Lofoten’s southern ferry routes. Heading back north we took the eastern road through Lofoten as we’d travelled south on the western road. I really can’t describe the rugged beauty of these islands you really do need to be here to appreciate it, it sounds like a cop out but it’s true.
Heading to the southern tip of Lofoten
We headed of back to the campsite earmarked earlier in the day, chucked the tent up and as per I set about knocking dinner together. Today was to be avocado, tomato and garlic salad followed by chilli and rice washed down with, yes you guessed it, a few beers.
Camp for the night
Saturday 8th September 315 miles
Norskehavet to Kilboghamn, Norway
After chatting to the campsite owner the previous evening we took his advice on the best route south and headed for Lodingen to catch the 09:30 ferry to Bognes. We packed up and breakfasted in the dry, I even set off without my waterproofs but that didn’t last long, I was soon stopped to get the over-trousers on.
Waiting to off-load
South on the 17
The ferry took and hour to cross to the mainland and was one of the most scenic ferry journeys I’ve taken. We were a bit slow getting off the ferry and ended up behind three coaches and a couple of lorries. As we headed south on the E6, it took a bit of time to get past them and no sooner had we that fuel was required, filling the bike I watched the convoy pass us and once mobile I gave chase but this time it was easier to get to the front. We’d decided to take road 17 south which is billed as “The World’s most beautiful journey” so headed west from the E6 on the 80. We stopped at the junction of the 80 and 17 for a coffee and a bite to eat before launching ourselves at the much hyped Route 17.
At this point it had been pouring down pretty much since we left the campsites and the temperature hadn’t managed to get above 4.5 deg C so it was going to have to be something special and at first I didn’t think it was very special at all but as it revealed itself the 17 came into its own with the real pivotal point being the Meloy Glacier just after Fauske which was a vibrant blue that erupted with colour against the steel grey of the rain filled clouds, this is without doubt the most spectacularly colourful glacier I have ever seen. After this point the weather seemed to improve and eventually actually did.
The Meloy Glacier
The problem with not having a plan is that sometimes a plan would have been handy…. There were supermarkets and various campsites that we cheerfully rode past then caught the ferry from Foroy to Agskardet which took us onto a piece of land with absolutely nothing in the way of supplies or camping, not good bearing in mind I was on a sticky wicket after my unscheduled ferry crossing a couple of days ago when I ran short of fuel. I pressed on and got to Kektvik to find that it was an hour and a half before the next and last departure of the day which meant arriving in Kilbogmamn at 7 pm long after we had any chance of getting any beer, a Saturday night without beer bummer! All was not lost by a quirk of fate we got chatting to a guy on the boat, he was a farrier travelling home after a few days working away, we relayed our tale of woe and he offered up some beers which I accepted without question, I did pay him for them in case you’re wondering. The second piece of good fortune was that while waiting for the boat I had a quick Google on my phone and found a campsite 3km from the ferry terminal, I was out of the dog house. The ferry south took us south of the Arctic Circle but the few kilometres ride to the campsite took us just back north of it, we only knew this due to the certificate on the campsite reception wall proudly proclaiming the sites official polar status.
Rainbow from the ferry
As I was booking in to the campsite I spotted a fridge stacked with beer so a few more were purchased and all was well. We finished the day with a feast of curry and rice followed by a slice of carrot cake, sourced from the boat, and washed down with quite a few Norwegian beers phew…
The nights camp taken the following morning
Sunday 9th September
Kilboghamn – Tjotta, Norway 208 miles
We started out with the misconception that the ferry from Nesna was 50 km away and left an hour to make the trip however I had mentally converted the actual 80 km to 50 miles and then remembered the number 50 but wrongly attributed kilometres needless to say we had no hope of making the ferry so we headed east to Mo I Rana where we had a look round for somewhere to stock up with provisions, everywhere was closed so we stopped at a garage fuelled up both us and the bike and asked about the closed shops. We learned two things firstly most shops in Norway are closed on a Sunday and secondly you cannot but beer on a Sunday unless you want to drink it on the premises. We found a little shop and stocked up with a few goodies for later but alas not the all important beer, I did think I’d been lucky the day before…
The run south with a mix of the E6, 78 &17
After shopping we headed south on the E6 this section was much more scenic and interesting to ride that most of the E6 we’d ridden before so the slip up with the ferry wasn’t too big a deal but still we only stayed on the E6 for around 100 km taking a right at Mosjoen onto the 78 back towards the coast and the 17 that we had intended following from the morning. Back on the 17 the next ferry we needed to catch was from Tjotta but as we arrived at the quay we watched the boat round the headland, the next boat wasn’t due for a couple of hours which would have been 6 pm so we called it a day and found a local campsite which turned out to be quite nice. We pitched up by the shore and set about cooking up our earlier procured provisions, a bit of a departure from the last few days with avocado, tomato and garlic salad followed by steak, spuds, mushrooms and carrots with a bit of cheese to finish things off washed down with a very sober mug of coffee.
Our pitch for the night didn’t turn out too bad
Time for dinner
Oh and for the first time in days we didn’t need our waterproofs.
Monday 10th September
Tjotta to Sildvaeret, Norway 296 miles
We had a fairly windy night and a bit of disturbance to our sleep but nothing serious and woke a little earlier than planned which worked in our favour as we’d just packed the tent and the heavens opened, the shower was brief but it would have been enough to wet our nice dry tent. We headed off to the quay where to our amazement it looked like half Norway including a complete road resurfacing team, associated paraphernalia and vehicles were waiting to board the ferry. After missing it by minutes the previous night I really did think we weren’t going to get on the boat, this would have been a problem as the next crossing would mean we’d miss the next connecting and a long wait which would have completely messed up our trio of crossings planned for the day. I needn’t have worried as we were all shoehorned onto what seemed an unfeasibly small vessel and off we set. The smell of waffles lured me to the galley where I found a stack of freshly made waffles, jam, yoghurt and coffee all for you to help yourself with a little honesty box. They were the cheapest waffles and coffee seen so far by us in Norway costing Kr10 for a coffee and Kr20 for a waffle, a serious bargain. After the refreshments I sat down and was surprised to be in Forvic already considering we’d only be moving for 10 minutes of what was supposed to be an hour crossing, it turned out that there were four or five potential calling points on the way and all were by request, if you wanted the boat to stop and pick you up you called the ships mobile phone, all very civilised. On our particular crossing the boat stopped at every available opportunity and time was starting to run short but we eventually docked and rode the 16 km to the next ferry to see the boat arrive just after we did had with the third crossing being equally well timed.
On the second ferry of the day
Still on the 17
About to get on ferry 3
By the time we got to the third ferry it was warm enough to remove my heated jacket, I even turned the heated grips off, the first time for over a week – result! We carried on the 17 and the first section from Holm to the junction with the 802 was excellent nice and bendy with plenty of excellent views, just the job. The 17 had been a cracking ride but we’d now come to its southern most point, Blondie and I had a chat and decided we’d get south of Trondheim so Tuesday would see us riding good roads and not having to make our way through city traffic so we got on with it and the afternoon was one of busy traffic in complete contrast to the preceding days.
We found a campsite and pitched up. Dinner was tomato and onion salad followed by pork steak and sauté potatoes with peanut cake to finish washed down with extra beers to make up for the previous night’s drought.
Our campsite
After dinner
Tuesday 11th September
Sildvaeret to Geiranger, Norway 245 miles
Well what a day! Absolutely fantastic from start to finish! We packed up in the dry, loaded the bike then had a brew before setting off west on the E39 which was a pretty good start to the day some decent curves and the odd bit of great scenery to take in even a bit of sunshine to help things along.
Start of the day
We followed the E39 until we came to the 65 which turned out to be the first quality road of the day twisting and turning with every undulation I was in my element, from this we took the 670 which although not as good as the 65 was pretty satisfying and took us to our first ferry of the day, a shuttle service from Kvanne to Todalsfjorden. As we arrived at the ferry there was a bit of drizzle so we donned our waterproofs as soon as we got on the boat, what a smart move that was, the ferry was of the open type where you stay with your vehicle as the crossing is only around ten minutes, half way across the wind blew up and it started to rain, I know I’ve mention rain earlier but all that paled into insignificance this was hard driving rain coming down in buckets. We got off the ferry onto another good road the rain, still as heavy, accompanying us on our way. We carried on for an hour or so still on some of the best roads we’d ridden since being in Scandinavia when we stopped for a coffee, a bite to eat and some juice for the bike. Leaving the fuel station we joined the 660, it was still raining but this didn’t detract from the riding, another class road taking us over a winding pass and around a fjord.
We were heading for the Trollstigen pass, a part of the trip I in particular had been looking forwards to and it didn’t disappoint, the road leading to the pass appears to be going to come to a dead end but the pass clings to the rock face and up you go, it was quite dramatic.
The Trollstigen
We stopped at the top, had a walk to the viewing platform and took a couple of pictures then continued over the rest of the pass which eventually took us to the Eidsdal ferry, another shuttle service but this one was there waiting for us with the bow doors open ready to take us on board, it was nice to get the boat timing so right even by complete fluke especially after some of the timing issues we’d had earlier. Off the ferry and heading for Geiranger again took us over another cracking road that eventually came to a hairpin pass that dropped the couple of thousand feet to see level in what seemed like no time at all the highlight of this was that there were two cruise ships in the fjord below us one steaming away and the other anchored up the vast Norddalsfjorden dwarfed these vessels but they added some scale to the scenery. We found a campsite pitched up and set about dinner which tonight was tomato and salami salad followed by meatballs with carrots and spuds followed by what was left of the peanut cake all washed down with a few beers.
The campsite at Geiranger
Wednesday 12th September
Geiranger to Ullensvang, Norway 262 miles
We awoke to another dry day had a lazy breakfast and set off south climbing up from Geiranger which was probably an even better ride than the ride down.
Loaded and ready to go
The road started with a steady climb out through the town at which point we passed two UK registered bikes parked outside a hotel, the only ones we saw on the whole trip. As the climb steepened the hairpins started eventually opening up, we passed the snowline and reached the plateaux.
The climb up and the snowline
It was bloody freezing, down to 0.5 deg C with wet roads but they were grippy enough so we enjoyed the ride over the tops to the junction with the 15 we turned right an came to a stop, the tunnels and road for the next 15 km were undergoing some repair work with the first tunnel operating a one way system, we got moving after twenty minutes or so but the tunnel was hideous, you couldn’t see for dust and the road itself was covered with grit and grime.
Waiting
The Scania
We got out of the other end and passed a few cars and lorries eventually catching up with a 4 Series Scania, we followed it down the pass and I have to say it was the quickest vehicle we followed in all our time in Norway, I’m guessing his speed limiter wasn’t hooked because he was flying.
We headed off the E39 onto the 13 and what a corker, just the sort of road that makes sense in Norway, not too fast but plenty bendy enough to keep you amused. We caught the ferry from Dragsvic to Vangsnes. On the boat we got chatting to an ambulance driver who asked us which way we were heading we said south and he said that we needed to be careful over the mountain, I didn’t even know there was a mountain!
The run up to the mountain and the top we were warned about
Anyway we headed up the mountain on yet another corker of a road. It started to rain then we reached the snow line, the rain turned to snow and we knew what our ambulance driving friend was talking about! We made it over the top, back below the snow line and continued on the 13, after the mountain the road wasn’t as good and it started to rain heavily just when we were planning to look for a campsite so we ended up riding further hoping the rain would stop and we’d dry our kit whilst riding which it did. We started looking for a campsite the first few were a bit rough so we carried on and it went like this; closed, closed, detour to campsite closed, getting dark, oh dear. We carried on riding and ended up catching the ferry over to Brimness, we were half way across the fjord and the heavens opened, wet again after all that but not to worry, we headed south and found a campsite after about 20 km and passing two others that were closed. We put the tent up in the pouring rain and set about dinner starting with pate moving on to sausage, onions, mushrooms and spuds. It wasn’t much of a dinner really the worst meal of the trip but we washed it down with a few beers anyway.
The camp the morning after in a brief spell without rain
Thursday 13th September
Ullensvang to Valle, Norway 230 miles
We packed up and left the campsite with the rain still coming down and headed south on the 13 which was fairly uneventful until I decided that the loop to the west via the E134 to Vindafjord and back east via the 514 and 46 looked interesting. Part way down the E134 we stopped for fuel and a brew then carried on along what turned out to be a fairly dull road until we passed the most spectacular waterfall I’ve ever seen, truly magnificent and more picturesque from there on.
The first part of the loop
We turned onto the 514 which ran next to Vindafjorden and on the map looked like it would be rather nice, in reality it wasn’t a bad road but the fjord was masked by a thin line of trees for almost its whole length. I had a great time as the road was back to the bendy but not too quick variety that sits well with the serious speeding fines in Norway. We came to the industrial town of Sauda and the road changed turning into a single track winding its way along a steep sided river valley which was really rather nice, it then started climbing and turned into something like the Hardknott pass on steroids a really interesting piece of road with some challenging levels of grip, it felt like one wheel or the other was losing grip on almost every corner! Fun although it did seem like it was never going to end.
Bits of the second part of the loop – Blondie wasn’t a willing photographer when it got hairy
We got back onto the E134 and then headed south on the 39 both of these roads taking us up to about 3,000 feet and a biting cold wind. We had started looking for a campsite on the E134 and had the same problems again with most sites being closed but the 39 turned out to be a pretty good road, faster than I’d have liked but I took my chances as I was having some fun. We travelled further than we wanted but found a decent campsite at Valle. I topped up the engine oil, filled the Scotoiler and adjusted the chain, all things alien to you GSers but it was a good job I did. Those of you who know me will know I ended up with bare metal on a set of rear pads in Ireland a couple of years ago well, I haven’t learned my lesson, not on the metal but as near as dam it. The iPhone is your friend and I Googled KTM dealers finding one less that 1 km from our route for the following day to Stavanger. I dropped them an email checking they had some in stock. We finished the day feasting on juicy burgers with avocado, tomato and garlic salad (again I know) finished of with a Norwegian rip off of our very own Bakewell tart washed down with a few beers, this was to be that last of my cooking for the trip as the next two nights would be on overnight ferries.
Our last campsite of the trip
Friday 14th September
Valle – Hirtshals, Denmark via Stavanger 145 miles
Bugger me it was raining when we went to bed and it was raining when we got up. We packed up and set off for Stavanger and the boat to Denmark initially on the 39 turning right onto the 337 another single ish track mountain road which was another good one slightly tainted by the only iffy Norwegian driving we’ve come across on our trip, every vehicle coming to meet us was going like a rocket and mostly forcing us to the very edge of the road, unusual considering how sedately and courteously most vehicles are driven in Norway, it wasn’t a major issue and the road was still enjoyable even if it was a little worrying at times. We continued onto the 42 and the rain poured, by far the worst we’d seen, my boots leaked and my waterproof trousers gave up the ghost.
An interesting bridge
We got to the junction with the E39 and stopped at a café I took my boots and socks off and stuck them in front of a fan heater to dry. The rain kept hammering down so we stayed in the café for an hour and a half enjoying a fantastic pizza and several cups of coffee.
The pizza
My drying boots
Next stop was going to be the KTM dealer, RBH Racing at Sandnes who had responded to my email saying they had stock. It poured down on the way and my boots were soon full of water again, we arrived and handed over about £25 for the rear pads, I popped them in and we were on our way again.
The new pads and the dealers
We arrived at the ferry terminal a bit too early so set off to buy some fresh socks which we did. We were on the boat for 6:30 and Blondie gave me a good ear bashing over how securely I tied the bike down, all four corners which seemed like the sensible option to me. When booking this ferry I opted for a cheap cabin over the engine and I’m glad I did, you could hear the engine throughout the boat and our cabin was nice and quiet other than the drum of the engine. We set sail and it was a tad rough, Blondie said “it was probably a good job you went mad with the straps”. Dinner was ordered Blondie opting for Schnitzel and me going for chicken and grand it was. This was of course washed down with a few beers.
Having a beer on the boat
Saturday 15th September
Hirtshals – Esbjerg, Denmark 209 miles
The rough seas didn’t hinder my sleep, I’d set my alarm for 6:00 ready to be out of the cabin by 6:30 and docking at 07:00 in Hirtshals but my slumber was disturbed by the ship’s announced advising that it was 5:30 and cabins needed to be cleared by 6:30, we got up, gathered our belongings and went for a coffee. The announcer was soon telling us to return to the car decks which we duly did, unlashed the bike and waited. The whole deck seemed to have been offloaded but we were hemmed in by a row of cars that were incredibly tightly packed together, eventually and after much manoeuvring we were free and the cause of the on-board jam was revealed; a Ferrari had been involved in an on deck shunt and was sandwiched between two saloon cars their owners in deep discussion.
We were on our way and it was dry, incredibly windy but dry. We’d decided to skip on board breakfast as it was a bit early for us and we had all day to cover the 320 km or so to Esbjerg so we thought we’d find a little café and with this in mind we headed away from the motorway and onto the 11 where we passed many a café but nothing that was open. As it was Saturday we thought they’d be open at 9am but that came and went with nothing materialising. We checked out a few small towns and no luck so we plodded on by which time the wind was really howling blowing the bike all over the place. After what seemed an eternity we came upon a McDonalds and breakfast was had, not exactly what was in mind but it would do. We continued on the 11, a desolate piece of road that appears to bypass Denmark, dull it most certainly was.
Road 11
We came across another McDonalds and stopped for a coffee and to kill some time as we were rather early for the boat, an hour passed and we set off for the port arriving about ten minutes before check in opened and we moved to the loading lanes where we chatted to the other folks on bike we’d met a couple of weeks earlier on our way out, one of whom was riding a 1200 GS and had also needed brake pads but a full set. He had them supplied by a BMW dealer near Oslo at a cost of Kr 2,000 or £240!, made mine look a real bargain. On board we tucked into the buffet dinner and washed it down with a few beers. All that was left now was the journey from Harwich home and our little adventure would be over.
Killing time in McDonalds
Sunday 16th September
The North Sea via Harwich to Home 244 miles
We were woken at 8 am by the ship’s tannoy announcing breakfast was served and up we got, breakfasted and then lounged around until the ship docked at midday. The boat offloaded and on our way we went to be met by probably a couple of thousand bikes heading into Harwich, I guessed it was some sort of charity event. After getting home I Googled the run and found out that it was in aid of The Essex Air Ambulance, an admirable cause. We went the quick way home heading up the A14 and M6 and were home just after 4 pm and it was all over after just over 4,900 miles.
Dave and Sandra aka Dellis & Blondie
The story started some thirty years ago when a Belgium friend of mine returned from his trip to The North Cape showed me his photographs and shared his tales of the journey north from Liege, I was hooked and wanted to go from that moment on but somehow something always got in the way, as things tend to, but last year I was determined that 2012 would be the year I’d make it. I shared my plans with my father early in 2011 who had known of my yearning to head north for all the thirty years I’d been wanting to get there, he pulled my leg saying “have you not got there yet!”. Sadly he’s not around now to see me realise my ambition.
Make a brew or get yourself a beer, this goes on a bit.
Friday 31st August
Home via Harwich – The North Sea 297 miles
I stayed at my place on Thursday night to give Blondie a bit of time to sort herself out prior to our trip so I had to ride to her house on Friday morning. At the end my drive I can turn either way and it’s the same distance, around 9 miles, I decided that right would be good. After about half a mile the road had been freshly resurfaced with a nice thick layer of very loose chippings that went on for the next three miles, after the chippings and almost as soon as I got going I came across a herd of cattle crossing after morning milking, a large herd at that! Off I go again and a mile further on the road is closed…. After a detour I arrive at Blondie’s we make a few minor luggage adjustments and set off just after 10am. Hopefully this won’t set the scene for our trip.
We had all day so went the more ‘scenic’ route stopping off for a bit of lunch at the café on the A47 by Guyhirn just outside Ken Thomas Transport as was. A company I worked for a dozen or so years ago and while we were having lunch we bumped into John Thomas my old boss. We had a bit of a catch up and I had a look round his vintage lorry collection which dates from the 1940’s to the 1970’s all of which are pristine. We set off again heading via Downham Market, Thetford and Woolpit where we joined the dull A14.
A couple of John’s lorries
We arrived at the ferry terminal in good time, checked in and we were soon loaded. A quick nosey at our cabin and off for dinner which was good but reassuringly expensive at £75 for the two of us, that did include 4 pints of Carlsberg. Another couple of beers in the lounge listening to a guy with a guitar and a box of tunes banging out songs from Bob Marley to Dire Straits with a bit of country thrown in. Bed with thoughts of the next couple of weeks was next….
Blondie tucking into dinner
Saturday 1st September
The North Sea via Esbjerg – Orkelljunga, Sweden 281 miles
Blondie is not a good sailor, didn’t have a great nights sleep and this morning complained that I was snoring all night and that the boat was “going up and down like a bride’s drawers”
Anyway I had a good night’s sleep and woke around 8am. We headed off for breakfast which after dinner was actually pretty good value at just over £12 each. The weather looked reasonable with blue skies doing their best to make a showing. We were both looking forward to the rest of the day blatting east on the Danish motorways….Our cabin
The boat docked on time and we were off for just after 1pm and after passing through Esbjerg we joined the motorway heading east for Sweden until junction with the E45 which I managed to join in error and a road we’d be spending a lot of time on in the next couple of days, a 16 km detour saw us heading east again. Other than being stuck on the motorway all was going well until we came to a queue of standing traffic which turned out to be over 20 km long and due to a cycle race being held over the bridge from Nyborg to Korsor and the bridge only having a single carriageway open to general traffic.
The bridge
We filtered our way through the standing traffic with plenty of hitch hiking thumbs from the stranded motorists and carried on along the motorway until about 6 pm when we started to look for a campsite, we easily found one put the tent up and settled down to dinner of curry and rice washed down with a couple of beers.
Cooking up dinner
Sunday 2nd September
Orkelljunga to Ostersund, Sweden 582 miles
We had a nice early start that soon turned wet, the first 160 km were on the motorway then onto the national roads and the E45 which was to be our main road north. The E45 started as it meant to go on; trees, Volvos, trees – you get the idea. We stopped for petrol and a coffee and met a couple of guys on KTM Super Enduros who were trying to convince me that the best route north had to be gravel, gravel and more gravel this passed an interesting half hour or so then back to the E45 where I realised a couple of things; Sweden is BIG, there are a lot of trees in Sweden, there are a lot of Volvos in Sweden, and after stopping to do our shopping the strongest beer you can buy in a Swedish supermarket is 3.5% (including Hobgoblin with which I didn’t bother) and every community large enough to get away with being called a town has a McDonalds.
We found a campsite pitched up and set about dinner which tonight was a selection of cured meats followed by spaghetti bolognaise washed down with a few beers then off to bed ready for another early start.
Swedish straight roads
The sprint north was the part of the journey I’d been looking forward to least, long straight roads, nothing but trees, I’m sure you get the idea but in reality I enjoyed it.
Our pitch for the night
Monday 3rd September
Ostersund to Karesuando, Swedish/Finnish Border 575 miles
Before we kicked off
On the bike
More straight roads
After breakfast of rice pudding, bought by me thinking it was yoghurt, we headed off for more of the same – E45, Volvos, trees however today was going to be the day we crossed the Arctic Circle. When we reached the point we pulled over for the obligatory photo and ploughed on. Not much more to say apart from the further north the faster the traffic, further south most cars were travelling around 110kph by the end of today the norm was nearer 125kph with a few going a lot quicker. We stuck to around 120kph and hardly deviated until we came across a town, at this speed the KTM was returning over 45mpg.
The Arctic Circle
We had planned to stop about 100 miles earlier than we did but the only campsite we could find was derelict so we plodded on following a couple of camping signs that came to nothing. Eventually we came to the border with Finland and a small family run farm site with loads of huts and a small space for tents we pitched up, were attacked by hoards of mosquitos which we dealt with using copious amounts of Deet. I set about dinner this time it was chilli and rice washed down with a couple of 3.5% beers.
Tuesday 4th September
Karesuando to Olderfjord, Norway via North Cape 417 miles
Another early start and the final push to the North Cape. We crossed the border to Finland and I moderated my speed after being warned that the Finnish have a more stringent approach speeding compared to the apparent liberal views in Sweden. We then crossed into Norway and speeding paranoia set in, 80kph is sooo slow, after what seemed an eternity I was passed by a local vehicle like I was stood still! I followed and was amazed that he seemed to be happy sitting at 115kph but after a while he turned off, I lost my bottle and returned to the limit which was now a heady 90kph so not quite as bad.
Finland
Norway at last
We stopped at Karasjok for fuel and some lunch, by now the scenery was more rugged, still trees but the more hardy looking small type, we continued north eventually seeing the first signs for the North Cape.
The run up to The North Cape – before the rain
The last 80 km or so the road became more open and the weather turned, I was going to say for the worse but it seemed somehow appropriate that it was howling a gale and showering with rain. Having been filled with horror stories of the costs involved with the last few km to the cape I was pleasantly surprised to find that the toll tunnel onto Mageroya was now free and according to the note in the window had been since late June of this year on we went, the roads getting more interesting especially with the gale force winds, an otter crossing the road in our path and numerous reindeer to add a bit of spice then we were there, well we were at the pay booth that blocks your path 400 metres before our destination. The second pleasant surprise of the day was that there was nobody there to take our money and we rode onto the parking area not a penny poorer. For me arriving at the North Cape was full of some very mixed thoughts.
The North Cape
The weather was still pretty bad but we had a nose around, took a couple of photographs, bought a coffee and buggered off. We thought we might like to camp fairly close by but the wind was severe so we headed south to Olderfjord and set up camp. We made use of the campsite kitchen and I knocked up burgers and salad washed down with a few beers this time the stronger Norwegian variety and spent the evening chatting to a group of guys cycling to the North Cape. Oh and we’re now over 50mpg!
Camp for the night
Wednesday 5th September
Olderfjord to Birtawarre, Norway 216 miles
The journey north was always going to be a sprint and the journey south a saunter so with this in mind we had a late start. We continued to head south on the E6 which although scenic in places was way too straight to be saddled with an 80kph/90kph speed limit. After miles of rugged open country the scenery started to change and soften with mountains, fjords and even the odd glacier, the further south the better it was. All in all it was a bit of a strange day but we enjoyed ourselves and the pace was now decidedly less pressured.
Spot the Troll
Heading south
Lunch
Been there got the T shirt
Blondie relaxing
After a few hundred km we found a campsite at Birtawarre and pitched up, a nice spot at the end of an inlet. We had a beer and it was dinner, this time meatballs carrots and spuds washed down with a few beers. Beer is pricey but supermarket prices are around the same as expensive UK pub prices or around £20 for six 500ml tins.
The campground after we’d packed up
Thursday 6th September
Birtawarre to Stokmarknes, Norway 271 miles
We awoke to heavy rain so waited for things to ease off before packing up and continuing on the E6, we’d only been moving for twenty minutes or so and it started to pour with rain this continued for what seemed like an eternity but in reality about 100km when we had a stroke of luck; we stropped to fill the bike with juice and I could see a guy with a remote control changing the prices of the various grades of fuel, up obviously, anyway I went in to pay and found that I was the last fill up of the day on the old prices, a little victory on what was a pretty miserable day so far. Onwards with the journey south.
The junction of the E6 and E10 was a tricky one, I really wanted to go to the Lofoten Islands but the weather was terrible, pouring with rain again and about 4 deg C so not really that pleasant, should we cut our losses and take the E6 south or take a chance on the Lofoten Islands? The Lofoten won and I turned right onto the E10 stopping after a few km for something to eat and a thaw out. After half an hour or so we carried on, the rain had eased, still freezing cold but just drizzle now.
Heading onto the islands
As we rode the scenery just got better and better after every turn there was something new mountains, bridges, waterfalls and more. Things were really perking up it even stopped raining and rose to the dizzy heights of 8 deg C but I was enjoying myself too much and I had neglected to take note of how far we’d travelled, I was running out of fuel and couldn’t make the next fuel station which was at Svolvaer. I’ve read Jupiter’s Travels and I know running out of fuel is not the end of the world however it is to Blondie… We were near Fiskebol and looking on the GPS a short ferry journey would allow us to get some juice so that where we headed. I tried to scrounge some petrol at the ferry dock but had no luck so we ended up taking the ferry and getting off at Hadsel. I managed to get 19 litres in and I know you can get just under 19.5 litres when bone dry, you really don’t need to know how I found that out – well go on then, when the bike was new I ran out twice in the same weekend, I did have a GSA before the KTM and wasn’t used to the significantly smaller tank… Anyway this meant we’d had only five or six miles before spluttering to a halt so I’d done the right thing.
On the ferry
We found a nice little campsite in a wood and pitched up for the night to the sound of gunfire, there was a bit of hunting going on but it sounded like a battlefield, I have no idea what was being hunted but didn’t fancy its chances much at all. Back to our routine this time it was spaghetti bolognaise washed down with a few beers, this is getting a little predictable… The night ended in rain but we’d had a good time.
Our camp
Washing down
Blondie’s beer holder
Friday 7th September
Stokmarknes – Norskehavet, Norway 218 miles
We awoke to rain again so gave it a little time to clear up then packed up leaving the campsite and heading off around the island continuing in the same direction as we’d arrived at the campsite effectively riding round the whole island of Hadseloya before catching the ferry back to Lofoten where my decision to take the ferry was proven to be a good one. We would have had no chance of getting to the next fuel which was in Svolvaer getting on for 20 km away.
On the way to Svolvaer I spotted an idyllic campsite and suggested to Blondie that we might head back there later in the day which we did but not before we set about the Lofoten. It is simply stunning, fantastic views in every direction, beautiful villages, a very nice place indeed. Today we had half a plan having heard that there was a Viking museum at Borg so headed there the weather was improving I could even see a bit of blue sky!
Heading to the Viking Museum
We arrived at the museum and spent a couple of hours browsing the exhibits and trying on Viking helmets in the reconstructed longhouse. Well worth a visit if you find yourself on Lofoten.
The Viking Museum
We left the museum and didn’t even have to put our waterproofs on, the blue sky was spreading and the sun even made an appearance, for a brief moment I even considered leaving my heated vest unplugged but thought better of it. We left and headed south aiming for the village of A which is as far south as you can ride on the archipelago. We’d already decided to either ride off the islands back the way we came on or jump on a ferry further north rather than taking on of Lofoten’s southern ferry routes. Heading back north we took the eastern road through Lofoten as we’d travelled south on the western road. I really can’t describe the rugged beauty of these islands you really do need to be here to appreciate it, it sounds like a cop out but it’s true.
Heading to the southern tip of Lofoten
We headed of back to the campsite earmarked earlier in the day, chucked the tent up and as per I set about knocking dinner together. Today was to be avocado, tomato and garlic salad followed by chilli and rice washed down with, yes you guessed it, a few beers.
Camp for the night
Saturday 8th September 315 miles
Norskehavet to Kilboghamn, Norway
After chatting to the campsite owner the previous evening we took his advice on the best route south and headed for Lodingen to catch the 09:30 ferry to Bognes. We packed up and breakfasted in the dry, I even set off without my waterproofs but that didn’t last long, I was soon stopped to get the over-trousers on.
Waiting to off-load
South on the 17
The ferry took and hour to cross to the mainland and was one of the most scenic ferry journeys I’ve taken. We were a bit slow getting off the ferry and ended up behind three coaches and a couple of lorries. As we headed south on the E6, it took a bit of time to get past them and no sooner had we that fuel was required, filling the bike I watched the convoy pass us and once mobile I gave chase but this time it was easier to get to the front. We’d decided to take road 17 south which is billed as “The World’s most beautiful journey” so headed west from the E6 on the 80. We stopped at the junction of the 80 and 17 for a coffee and a bite to eat before launching ourselves at the much hyped Route 17.
At this point it had been pouring down pretty much since we left the campsites and the temperature hadn’t managed to get above 4.5 deg C so it was going to have to be something special and at first I didn’t think it was very special at all but as it revealed itself the 17 came into its own with the real pivotal point being the Meloy Glacier just after Fauske which was a vibrant blue that erupted with colour against the steel grey of the rain filled clouds, this is without doubt the most spectacularly colourful glacier I have ever seen. After this point the weather seemed to improve and eventually actually did.
The Meloy Glacier
The problem with not having a plan is that sometimes a plan would have been handy…. There were supermarkets and various campsites that we cheerfully rode past then caught the ferry from Foroy to Agskardet which took us onto a piece of land with absolutely nothing in the way of supplies or camping, not good bearing in mind I was on a sticky wicket after my unscheduled ferry crossing a couple of days ago when I ran short of fuel. I pressed on and got to Kektvik to find that it was an hour and a half before the next and last departure of the day which meant arriving in Kilbogmamn at 7 pm long after we had any chance of getting any beer, a Saturday night without beer bummer! All was not lost by a quirk of fate we got chatting to a guy on the boat, he was a farrier travelling home after a few days working away, we relayed our tale of woe and he offered up some beers which I accepted without question, I did pay him for them in case you’re wondering. The second piece of good fortune was that while waiting for the boat I had a quick Google on my phone and found a campsite 3km from the ferry terminal, I was out of the dog house. The ferry south took us south of the Arctic Circle but the few kilometres ride to the campsite took us just back north of it, we only knew this due to the certificate on the campsite reception wall proudly proclaiming the sites official polar status.
Rainbow from the ferry
As I was booking in to the campsite I spotted a fridge stacked with beer so a few more were purchased and all was well. We finished the day with a feast of curry and rice followed by a slice of carrot cake, sourced from the boat, and washed down with quite a few Norwegian beers phew…
The nights camp taken the following morning
Sunday 9th September
Kilboghamn – Tjotta, Norway 208 miles
We started out with the misconception that the ferry from Nesna was 50 km away and left an hour to make the trip however I had mentally converted the actual 80 km to 50 miles and then remembered the number 50 but wrongly attributed kilometres needless to say we had no hope of making the ferry so we headed east to Mo I Rana where we had a look round for somewhere to stock up with provisions, everywhere was closed so we stopped at a garage fuelled up both us and the bike and asked about the closed shops. We learned two things firstly most shops in Norway are closed on a Sunday and secondly you cannot but beer on a Sunday unless you want to drink it on the premises. We found a little shop and stocked up with a few goodies for later but alas not the all important beer, I did think I’d been lucky the day before…
The run south with a mix of the E6, 78 &17
After shopping we headed south on the E6 this section was much more scenic and interesting to ride that most of the E6 we’d ridden before so the slip up with the ferry wasn’t too big a deal but still we only stayed on the E6 for around 100 km taking a right at Mosjoen onto the 78 back towards the coast and the 17 that we had intended following from the morning. Back on the 17 the next ferry we needed to catch was from Tjotta but as we arrived at the quay we watched the boat round the headland, the next boat wasn’t due for a couple of hours which would have been 6 pm so we called it a day and found a local campsite which turned out to be quite nice. We pitched up by the shore and set about cooking up our earlier procured provisions, a bit of a departure from the last few days with avocado, tomato and garlic salad followed by steak, spuds, mushrooms and carrots with a bit of cheese to finish things off washed down with a very sober mug of coffee.
Our pitch for the night didn’t turn out too bad
Time for dinner
Oh and for the first time in days we didn’t need our waterproofs.
Monday 10th September
Tjotta to Sildvaeret, Norway 296 miles
We had a fairly windy night and a bit of disturbance to our sleep but nothing serious and woke a little earlier than planned which worked in our favour as we’d just packed the tent and the heavens opened, the shower was brief but it would have been enough to wet our nice dry tent. We headed off to the quay where to our amazement it looked like half Norway including a complete road resurfacing team, associated paraphernalia and vehicles were waiting to board the ferry. After missing it by minutes the previous night I really did think we weren’t going to get on the boat, this would have been a problem as the next crossing would mean we’d miss the next connecting and a long wait which would have completely messed up our trio of crossings planned for the day. I needn’t have worried as we were all shoehorned onto what seemed an unfeasibly small vessel and off we set. The smell of waffles lured me to the galley where I found a stack of freshly made waffles, jam, yoghurt and coffee all for you to help yourself with a little honesty box. They were the cheapest waffles and coffee seen so far by us in Norway costing Kr10 for a coffee and Kr20 for a waffle, a serious bargain. After the refreshments I sat down and was surprised to be in Forvic already considering we’d only be moving for 10 minutes of what was supposed to be an hour crossing, it turned out that there were four or five potential calling points on the way and all were by request, if you wanted the boat to stop and pick you up you called the ships mobile phone, all very civilised. On our particular crossing the boat stopped at every available opportunity and time was starting to run short but we eventually docked and rode the 16 km to the next ferry to see the boat arrive just after we did had with the third crossing being equally well timed.
On the second ferry of the day
Still on the 17
About to get on ferry 3
By the time we got to the third ferry it was warm enough to remove my heated jacket, I even turned the heated grips off, the first time for over a week – result! We carried on the 17 and the first section from Holm to the junction with the 802 was excellent nice and bendy with plenty of excellent views, just the job. The 17 had been a cracking ride but we’d now come to its southern most point, Blondie and I had a chat and decided we’d get south of Trondheim so Tuesday would see us riding good roads and not having to make our way through city traffic so we got on with it and the afternoon was one of busy traffic in complete contrast to the preceding days.
We found a campsite and pitched up. Dinner was tomato and onion salad followed by pork steak and sauté potatoes with peanut cake to finish washed down with extra beers to make up for the previous night’s drought.
Our campsite
After dinner
Tuesday 11th September
Sildvaeret to Geiranger, Norway 245 miles
Well what a day! Absolutely fantastic from start to finish! We packed up in the dry, loaded the bike then had a brew before setting off west on the E39 which was a pretty good start to the day some decent curves and the odd bit of great scenery to take in even a bit of sunshine to help things along.
Start of the day
We followed the E39 until we came to the 65 which turned out to be the first quality road of the day twisting and turning with every undulation I was in my element, from this we took the 670 which although not as good as the 65 was pretty satisfying and took us to our first ferry of the day, a shuttle service from Kvanne to Todalsfjorden. As we arrived at the ferry there was a bit of drizzle so we donned our waterproofs as soon as we got on the boat, what a smart move that was, the ferry was of the open type where you stay with your vehicle as the crossing is only around ten minutes, half way across the wind blew up and it started to rain, I know I’ve mention rain earlier but all that paled into insignificance this was hard driving rain coming down in buckets. We got off the ferry onto another good road the rain, still as heavy, accompanying us on our way. We carried on for an hour or so still on some of the best roads we’d ridden since being in Scandinavia when we stopped for a coffee, a bite to eat and some juice for the bike. Leaving the fuel station we joined the 660, it was still raining but this didn’t detract from the riding, another class road taking us over a winding pass and around a fjord.
We were heading for the Trollstigen pass, a part of the trip I in particular had been looking forwards to and it didn’t disappoint, the road leading to the pass appears to be going to come to a dead end but the pass clings to the rock face and up you go, it was quite dramatic.
The Trollstigen
We stopped at the top, had a walk to the viewing platform and took a couple of pictures then continued over the rest of the pass which eventually took us to the Eidsdal ferry, another shuttle service but this one was there waiting for us with the bow doors open ready to take us on board, it was nice to get the boat timing so right even by complete fluke especially after some of the timing issues we’d had earlier. Off the ferry and heading for Geiranger again took us over another cracking road that eventually came to a hairpin pass that dropped the couple of thousand feet to see level in what seemed like no time at all the highlight of this was that there were two cruise ships in the fjord below us one steaming away and the other anchored up the vast Norddalsfjorden dwarfed these vessels but they added some scale to the scenery. We found a campsite pitched up and set about dinner which tonight was tomato and salami salad followed by meatballs with carrots and spuds followed by what was left of the peanut cake all washed down with a few beers.
The campsite at Geiranger
Wednesday 12th September
Geiranger to Ullensvang, Norway 262 miles
We awoke to another dry day had a lazy breakfast and set off south climbing up from Geiranger which was probably an even better ride than the ride down.
Loaded and ready to go
The road started with a steady climb out through the town at which point we passed two UK registered bikes parked outside a hotel, the only ones we saw on the whole trip. As the climb steepened the hairpins started eventually opening up, we passed the snowline and reached the plateaux.
The climb up and the snowline
It was bloody freezing, down to 0.5 deg C with wet roads but they were grippy enough so we enjoyed the ride over the tops to the junction with the 15 we turned right an came to a stop, the tunnels and road for the next 15 km were undergoing some repair work with the first tunnel operating a one way system, we got moving after twenty minutes or so but the tunnel was hideous, you couldn’t see for dust and the road itself was covered with grit and grime.
Waiting
The Scania
We got out of the other end and passed a few cars and lorries eventually catching up with a 4 Series Scania, we followed it down the pass and I have to say it was the quickest vehicle we followed in all our time in Norway, I’m guessing his speed limiter wasn’t hooked because he was flying.
We headed off the E39 onto the 13 and what a corker, just the sort of road that makes sense in Norway, not too fast but plenty bendy enough to keep you amused. We caught the ferry from Dragsvic to Vangsnes. On the boat we got chatting to an ambulance driver who asked us which way we were heading we said south and he said that we needed to be careful over the mountain, I didn’t even know there was a mountain!
The run up to the mountain and the top we were warned about
Anyway we headed up the mountain on yet another corker of a road. It started to rain then we reached the snow line, the rain turned to snow and we knew what our ambulance driving friend was talking about! We made it over the top, back below the snow line and continued on the 13, after the mountain the road wasn’t as good and it started to rain heavily just when we were planning to look for a campsite so we ended up riding further hoping the rain would stop and we’d dry our kit whilst riding which it did. We started looking for a campsite the first few were a bit rough so we carried on and it went like this; closed, closed, detour to campsite closed, getting dark, oh dear. We carried on riding and ended up catching the ferry over to Brimness, we were half way across the fjord and the heavens opened, wet again after all that but not to worry, we headed south and found a campsite after about 20 km and passing two others that were closed. We put the tent up in the pouring rain and set about dinner starting with pate moving on to sausage, onions, mushrooms and spuds. It wasn’t much of a dinner really the worst meal of the trip but we washed it down with a few beers anyway.
The camp the morning after in a brief spell without rain
Thursday 13th September
Ullensvang to Valle, Norway 230 miles
We packed up and left the campsite with the rain still coming down and headed south on the 13 which was fairly uneventful until I decided that the loop to the west via the E134 to Vindafjord and back east via the 514 and 46 looked interesting. Part way down the E134 we stopped for fuel and a brew then carried on along what turned out to be a fairly dull road until we passed the most spectacular waterfall I’ve ever seen, truly magnificent and more picturesque from there on.
The first part of the loop
We turned onto the 514 which ran next to Vindafjorden and on the map looked like it would be rather nice, in reality it wasn’t a bad road but the fjord was masked by a thin line of trees for almost its whole length. I had a great time as the road was back to the bendy but not too quick variety that sits well with the serious speeding fines in Norway. We came to the industrial town of Sauda and the road changed turning into a single track winding its way along a steep sided river valley which was really rather nice, it then started climbing and turned into something like the Hardknott pass on steroids a really interesting piece of road with some challenging levels of grip, it felt like one wheel or the other was losing grip on almost every corner! Fun although it did seem like it was never going to end.
Bits of the second part of the loop – Blondie wasn’t a willing photographer when it got hairy
We got back onto the E134 and then headed south on the 39 both of these roads taking us up to about 3,000 feet and a biting cold wind. We had started looking for a campsite on the E134 and had the same problems again with most sites being closed but the 39 turned out to be a pretty good road, faster than I’d have liked but I took my chances as I was having some fun. We travelled further than we wanted but found a decent campsite at Valle. I topped up the engine oil, filled the Scotoiler and adjusted the chain, all things alien to you GSers but it was a good job I did. Those of you who know me will know I ended up with bare metal on a set of rear pads in Ireland a couple of years ago well, I haven’t learned my lesson, not on the metal but as near as dam it. The iPhone is your friend and I Googled KTM dealers finding one less that 1 km from our route for the following day to Stavanger. I dropped them an email checking they had some in stock. We finished the day feasting on juicy burgers with avocado, tomato and garlic salad (again I know) finished of with a Norwegian rip off of our very own Bakewell tart washed down with a few beers, this was to be that last of my cooking for the trip as the next two nights would be on overnight ferries.
Our last campsite of the trip
Friday 14th September
Valle – Hirtshals, Denmark via Stavanger 145 miles
Bugger me it was raining when we went to bed and it was raining when we got up. We packed up and set off for Stavanger and the boat to Denmark initially on the 39 turning right onto the 337 another single ish track mountain road which was another good one slightly tainted by the only iffy Norwegian driving we’ve come across on our trip, every vehicle coming to meet us was going like a rocket and mostly forcing us to the very edge of the road, unusual considering how sedately and courteously most vehicles are driven in Norway, it wasn’t a major issue and the road was still enjoyable even if it was a little worrying at times. We continued onto the 42 and the rain poured, by far the worst we’d seen, my boots leaked and my waterproof trousers gave up the ghost.
An interesting bridge
We got to the junction with the E39 and stopped at a café I took my boots and socks off and stuck them in front of a fan heater to dry. The rain kept hammering down so we stayed in the café for an hour and a half enjoying a fantastic pizza and several cups of coffee.
The pizza
My drying boots
Next stop was going to be the KTM dealer, RBH Racing at Sandnes who had responded to my email saying they had stock. It poured down on the way and my boots were soon full of water again, we arrived and handed over about £25 for the rear pads, I popped them in and we were on our way again.
The new pads and the dealers
We arrived at the ferry terminal a bit too early so set off to buy some fresh socks which we did. We were on the boat for 6:30 and Blondie gave me a good ear bashing over how securely I tied the bike down, all four corners which seemed like the sensible option to me. When booking this ferry I opted for a cheap cabin over the engine and I’m glad I did, you could hear the engine throughout the boat and our cabin was nice and quiet other than the drum of the engine. We set sail and it was a tad rough, Blondie said “it was probably a good job you went mad with the straps”. Dinner was ordered Blondie opting for Schnitzel and me going for chicken and grand it was. This was of course washed down with a few beers.
Having a beer on the boat
Saturday 15th September
Hirtshals – Esbjerg, Denmark 209 miles
The rough seas didn’t hinder my sleep, I’d set my alarm for 6:00 ready to be out of the cabin by 6:30 and docking at 07:00 in Hirtshals but my slumber was disturbed by the ship’s announced advising that it was 5:30 and cabins needed to be cleared by 6:30, we got up, gathered our belongings and went for a coffee. The announcer was soon telling us to return to the car decks which we duly did, unlashed the bike and waited. The whole deck seemed to have been offloaded but we were hemmed in by a row of cars that were incredibly tightly packed together, eventually and after much manoeuvring we were free and the cause of the on-board jam was revealed; a Ferrari had been involved in an on deck shunt and was sandwiched between two saloon cars their owners in deep discussion.
We were on our way and it was dry, incredibly windy but dry. We’d decided to skip on board breakfast as it was a bit early for us and we had all day to cover the 320 km or so to Esbjerg so we thought we’d find a little café and with this in mind we headed away from the motorway and onto the 11 where we passed many a café but nothing that was open. As it was Saturday we thought they’d be open at 9am but that came and went with nothing materialising. We checked out a few small towns and no luck so we plodded on by which time the wind was really howling blowing the bike all over the place. After what seemed an eternity we came upon a McDonalds and breakfast was had, not exactly what was in mind but it would do. We continued on the 11, a desolate piece of road that appears to bypass Denmark, dull it most certainly was.
Road 11
We came across another McDonalds and stopped for a coffee and to kill some time as we were rather early for the boat, an hour passed and we set off for the port arriving about ten minutes before check in opened and we moved to the loading lanes where we chatted to the other folks on bike we’d met a couple of weeks earlier on our way out, one of whom was riding a 1200 GS and had also needed brake pads but a full set. He had them supplied by a BMW dealer near Oslo at a cost of Kr 2,000 or £240!, made mine look a real bargain. On board we tucked into the buffet dinner and washed it down with a few beers. All that was left now was the journey from Harwich home and our little adventure would be over.
Killing time in McDonalds
Sunday 16th September
The North Sea via Harwich to Home 244 miles
We were woken at 8 am by the ship’s tannoy announcing breakfast was served and up we got, breakfasted and then lounged around until the ship docked at midday. The boat offloaded and on our way we went to be met by probably a couple of thousand bikes heading into Harwich, I guessed it was some sort of charity event. After getting home I Googled the run and found out that it was in aid of The Essex Air Ambulance, an admirable cause. We went the quick way home heading up the A14 and M6 and were home just after 4 pm and it was all over after just over 4,900 miles.
Dave and Sandra aka Dellis & Blondie
Thanks for sharing
