Neutral Switch

Hoff

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Getting to the end of my mini overhaul on my R75/6 (circa 1976) and I could do with some advice.
Original neutral switch was broken, one of the tangs for the cables was broken so new switch bought from Motorworks, checked it was correct switch! Switch checked for continuity before fitting, zeroish resistance on switch changing to infinite resistance when ball on switch pressed in.
Fitted switch, connected wires and turned ignition on, only way to get engine to turn was to pull the clutch in. Disconnected wires from neutral switch, connected them together and engine turns over without pulling clutch in.
Green neutral light on the instrument cluster is not illuminating at all, will this stop the cct being made?
What am I missing - probably a numpty question but can anybody help??
TIA
Paul
 
Thanks Mike I will wait to hear from you.
If you are correct how easy is it to change the bulb in the instrument panel?
 
Thanks Mike I will wait to hear from you.
If you are correct how easy is it to change the bulb in the instrument panel?
Changing the bulb is straight forward,
If the bulb holder and printed circuit are corroded it starts to become a faff,
You get the neutral light to work,then the oil light packs in,you fix that the the charge light stops working.
Pause rewind and repeat until you throw in the towel and order a KATDASH.!
 
Looks to me like the starter relay will get an earth through the clutch switch,
Or through the diode on the circuit board in the headlamp shell,
If the neutral bulb is not illuminated it shouldn’t stop the starter working.as the relay should just earth through the switch.
Time to get your multi meter out
 
Hoff, I've had this before. Your neutral switch is likely open circuit because it is pushed in already, and all the time. Stick another washer on the switch to back it out a little bit. It's like a shimming job. Worked for me.

Of course, usual disclaimers.
 
Thanks for the advice and will revisit this later on. I will leave the wires to the neural switch connected and live without a green light.
I want to finish getting it running and get some riding on it then add this job to my list for the winter.
 
Had some free time so had another go at this. Replaced neutral bulb and bulb holder in instrument cluster and tested switch outside of the gearbox and all worked well but when inserted in the gearbox it would just not work no matter how many shims I tried (my multi meter remained displaying OL).
On the wise advice of a forum member I tried another switch from a different source and it works outside the Gearbox and when fitted into the gearbox. Absolutely no idea why the first switch does not work but at the end of the day I am happy to have got it all working.
:okay
 
Both switches look identical re thread length and continuity testing ie minimum reading when fully extended and open loop when pressed in. The thick washer was used as well.
 
My '83 R100 only shows the neutral light after I have been riding for 30 minutes or so, never when the engine/gearbox is cold. Any ideas?
 


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