If your bike is 2.5 years old, it will be one of those covered under the 3 year warranty.
No, Just missed out on that.
If your bike is 2.5 years old, it will be one of those covered under the 3 year warranty.
It does make you think.
My 14 year old 90K R1150GS was fine ?
I just picked up my 2018 Rallye gsa from Motorrad Glasgow today after BMW replaced the driveshaft, final drive and swing arm. Its only done 6k miles when I bought it in August last year
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Aye, corrosion. I removed the top bolt and the drive wouldn't budge. Same at the gearbox end too. It was driving fine and as it had not actually failed then they told me it couldn't be exchanged under warranty but BMW Customer service paid for it. £3000 I was told.
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I'm sure it will. Best of luck.The "Official" warranty is out, however, Im certain under the "fit for use" would kick in ? I'm waiting to get it confirmed it will be done under "Good will"
I'm sure it will. Best of luck.
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I just picked up my 2018 Rallye gsa from Motorrad Glasgow today after BMW replaced the driveshaft, final drive and swing arm. Its only done 6k miles when I bought it in August last year
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For info it’s very easy to do yourself and only takes a few minutes
If I saw it being done once I'd be confident to do it myself going forward, but otherwise it seems a tad daunting
No problems on mine last year
2004 build
63,000 miles
Never opened up before
Still has grease from factory at Berlin Spandau
When the GS was a quality bike
Watch a couple of YouTube videos to get the gist but don’t forget there are some muppets on there !
Here’s what I did:
Pop it on the center stand, remove the spray guard from theFD and take the back wheel off, mine comes off without moving the silencer, I put a bungee from the front wheel to the stand for security
Take the ABS sensor out of the back of the final drive, I think it was a T25, I made a bung out of packing foam to stick in the hole so that the FD oil doesn’t run out when you drop the FD (I had changed mine recently)
Unclip the ABS sensor cable and remove the two bolts holding the rear caliper on, I cable tied the caliper to the panier frame to hold it out of the way
Remove the bolt from the paralever link bar, I supported the FD with an empty box
Gently lower the FD and unclip the front of the boot as you do so, as it opens up you can hold the UJ yolk to make sure you don’t pull the shaft off the gearbox end, this shouldn’t happen normally as it’s circlipped on the output shaft
The yolk should just slide off, it’s not circlipped, and the FD will just hang down
Clean and grease the splines as you wish, I used Facom lithium grease, then lift the FD back up
You can get your fingers in to hold the yolk in position on the end of the splines and wiggle the brake disk to align them if necessary, mine popped on easily in a couple of seconds (some YouTubers use a piece of wire to hold the yolk up but you can’t change the angle that way so I’d recommend using your fingers)
Once the yolk is on the splines close the FD and clip the boot back into position, I put just a light smear of lithium grease on the sealing face
Put the bolt back in the paralever link with a bit of thread locker, blue loctite in my case, torque up to 56 NM
Put the caliper back on, again thread lock on the bolts and torque up to 24 NM (pump your brake pedal in case you’ve pushed the pads back)
Clip the ABS sensor cable back in place and put the sensor back in the FD, torque setting for the screw is 8 NM but I just nipped it up fairly tight by hand
Put the wheel back on, tighten the bolts in diagonally opposite sequence and torque up to 60 NM
Put the spray guard back on, thread lock on the screws and torque up to 8 NM
Job done shouldn’t ever need doing again in reality
Well done Onahi for fessing up, hoping you get your goodwill from BMW