1200 vs 1250

pitrat101

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Hi, looking at possible move to RS, is there a great difference in the 1250 and 1200? The TFT screen isn't a selling point for me, just wondered if it's worth the extra couple of thousand.
 
I had the same question when I changed from a Hexhead GS to an LC I test rode both a 1200 & 1250R and a 1200RS, both engines were obviously a big improvement on the GS, the 1250 was marginally better but I don’t do that many miles a year and in the end I got a low miles 15 plate 1200R with FSH, all the extras except keyless and Givi box & tankbag, the equivalent 1250 would have cost me an extra £5k, easy decision for me really, with the RS I didn’t like the narrow bars and it felt I was reaching too far forward, the R feels in the middle between the GS & RS.

AL.
 
I have a R1200RS in lupin blue, bought new in 2016. I have ridden the 1250 on at least 3 occasions when having the 1200 serviced. I am not a fan of the LCD, although the 1200 display is pants compared to my 2016 S1000XR.

The 1200 is not lacking any torque or power so the new engine, whilst nice, is not an essential upgrade and adds a layer of complexity that could be costly in longer term ownership.

The 1250 suspension is pretty much identical except there is now an automatic preload setting, which does not work very well in my view. It never seemed to select the right setting on bumpy terrain in the Cotswolds. I'd put it back in manual.

Colours: have you looked at the 1250 colours? Not for me, although the latest RWB is pretty but I guess you are not looking at new ones if the 1200 is a contender.

The biggest bugbear on the 1200 has been the screen. More posts on this topic than any other on https://www.r1200rsforum.com/ I do not think the 1250 addresses this as there are loads of posts about 1250 screens as well. I have fitted a Puig spoiler on my 1200.

A mate bought a 2017 1200 in lupin blue last year. He and his wife went to Germany on it with me last year. He commutes from Kent into Canary Wharf a few times a week. He really likes the bike.

Stick with a 1200 and spend the money saved on some trips.
 
Thank for info, was looking at XR but can't find a factory low anywhere near me. The new one look pants.
 
Thank for info, was looking at XR but can't find a factory low anywhere near me. The new one look pants.

My low XR won't be mine tomorrow as a chap is coming down to collect it in the morning. Sold in less than 24 hours from advertising as they are pretty rare.

The RS is the keeper of those bikes though. I much prefer the torque of a big twin and low centre of gravity of the boxer, although the XR is an excellent bike, no doubt.
 
Been discussed in plenty of threads, so you might want to do a search to get additional feedback. My own view is that the linear power delivery and additional torque of the 1250 makes for a more enjoyable and rewarding experience, giving more flexibility in the gears on country roads as well as an absence of the flat spots on the 1200. It's not so much about power peers see, but a much more flexible engine. So it really comes down to the extra cost of whatever 1250 you might look at .

Couple of points - the outgoing 1200 had tft - mostly 67 plates. Also, the ESA II (which has the auto settings to which wessie refers) came out on the 1200s, from around March 17. This will be easily identifiable, as that's when they updated the bodywork as well, and which didn't change on the 1250.
 
Been discussed in plenty of threads, so you might want to do a search to get additional feedback. My own view is that the linear power delivery and additional torque of the 1250 makes for a more enjoyable and rewarding experience, giving more flexibility in the gears on country roads as well as an absence of the flat spots on the 1200. It's not so much about power peers see, but a much more flexible engine. So it really comes down to the extra cost of whatever 1250 you might look at .

Couple of points - the outgoing 1200 had tft - mostly 67 plates. Also, the ESA II (which has the auto settings to which wessie refers) came out on the 1200s, from around March 17. This will be easily identifiable, as that's when they updated the bodywork as well, and which didn't change on the 1250.

you seem to be talking about the GS - this is a query about the RS
 
I had a 1200GS for 5 yrs and now have a 1250RS for a year, the 1250 motor is soooo much better than the 1200, TFT screen is very good and an improvement on the 1200 - I borrowed a few 1200 RS’s over the years and really didn’t get on with the clocks, RS is a nice bike I prefer it to my GS as a road/touring bike and would struggle to find anything better that suits my riding ( perhaps a triumph RS would tempt me if they built one again)
 
I'm just coming back to a boxer after selling my GSA 18 months ago. For me, the 1200 was a no-brainer simply because there are so many low miles good ones about with all the extras I didn't see any benefit to paying more for less. The 1250 for me has the more zippy lump and there's no denying the performance advantage but in real world riding and especially in touring, it's not an issue at all as the 1200 has more than enough grunt. I'm not a fan of the TFT screens and whilst the big speedo on the older models is pretty pants, the LCD panel and computer pro keep things simple, uncluttered and clear. Add to that the addition of a Navi 6 and you effectively have your tft screen if you want to look at it that way.

Prices used are still holding well for good ones as I discovered, so a bike under 5 years old in RS1200 territory with all the extras on it, in sport SE trim is still likely to be £10K but if you grab one with very low miles, it's little different to a brand new bike for a heck of a lot less money. I totted up the cost of a 1250, new, with everything fitted as per the one I've just bought and it came out at over £17K so I had to question whether it was worth the extra and the conclusion I came to was "not".
 
Ok , damn me for saying it , but I’m very happy riding my 1200GSA in ‘rain mode ‘ ; enjoying smooth throttle response and not feeling the need for any more power . 220 miles of enjoyment in the Brecons last weekend . A joy to ride . Just saying.
 
No one can convince me that an extra 50cc, a colourful dash and a 5 figure sum will make my riding more enjoyable.

My 2015 Lupin Blue is still going as well as ever. Suitable cruising ability. Suitable overtaking ability. Top speed irrelevant in this age.

Go for the cleanest, best maintained, cheapest bike you can find.

The bike will always outperform the rider.

As mentioned above, the saving pays for the travelling.

Unless you want the newest plate at your local “biker cafe”.

ps - my GPS screen as I lounge on my Euro hotel bed. Bike parked up outside for tomorrow’s ride to ferry.
051E324D-A36D-4EA7-A848-620C7703CCE3.jpegC14374CB-52CA-4E39-9F92-5805F5DBD15E.jpeg
 
No one can convince me that an extra 50cc, a colourful dash and a 5 figure sum will make my riding more enjoyable.

My 2015 Lupin Blue is still going as well as ever. Suitable cruising ability. Suitable overtaking ability. Top speed irrelevant in this age.

Go for the cleanest, best maintained, cheapest bike you can find.

The bike will always outperform the rider.

As mentioned above, the saving pays for the travelling.

Unless you want the newest plate at your local “biker cafe”.

ps - my GPS screen as I lounge on my Euro hotel bed. Bike parked up outside for tomorrow’s ride to ferry.
View attachment 264470View attachment 264471
Absolutely spot on Sir!
 
Exactly my sentiments too. By hunting down the lowest mileage cleanest example of a 1200RS I could find, with every single options box ticked, which I have just bought is for me no different than a brand new bike that's just been partially run in for £8K less than a similar spec'd 1250 would have cost me. That buys me three really good trips to Spain plus beer tokens.
 
AFAIK no seat adjustment on the RS, one size fits only certain people
 
AFAIK no seat adjustment on the RS, one size fits only certain people
correct but 3 different seat depths and swaps can be made relatively easy - when buying new, I think it is a no cost option to choose which one of the 3 you want, hence some buyers of a used bike want to change from the att seat to a standard seat etc.
 
Then there's two Motorrad bar options, after market bar risers and aftermarket bars. There's even peg lowering kits so it's not hard to get one to fit well. For touring, the sports seat is the flattest and most cushioned but also the tallest. It does increase distance to pegs which is good, but you then have more of a stretch down to the bars which for many will mean bar risers as the best option. If swapping bars, I think the clutch would need bleeding, but unsure why this might be the case for just adding bar risers.
 
Then there's two Motorrad bar options, after market bar risers and aftermarket bars. There's even peg lowering kits so it's not hard to get one to fit well. For touring, the sports seat is the flattest and most cushioned but also the tallest. It does increase distance to pegs which is good, but you then have more of a stretch down to the bars which for many will mean bar risers as the best option. If swapping bars, I think the clutch would need bleeding, but unsure why this might be the case for just adding bar risers.

the clutch line might need an extension, depending on the bar option taken but it does not need bleeding as it is a low pressure system unlike the brakes so the little bit of air that enters makes little difference. In many cases, just releasing a cable tie can give enough slack as the factory cable routing tends to remove this.

I fitted Wunderlich 25mm (up only) risers on standard bars and did not need to fiddle with the clutch line.
 
Great info, thanks Wessie. Did you have to re-route anything?
 
Great info, thanks Wessie. Did you have to re-route anything?
in my case, no. I think if I had used the version that brought the bars closer as well then I might have need to fiddle with the clutch line's routing. It's pot luck on which side of the cable tie the factory ape leaves the slack!
 


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