Clutch slipping woes

[slaphead GSER]

Clutch started slipping last year shortly after I got it so decided to do something about it a few months ago . Bike is 2000 1150GS with 175,000 but hadn't been used for aprox 6/7 years before I got it.
Starter out and bell housing very wet on the gear box side so I reckoned it was the gearbox input seal. Replaced the seal and rebuilt it but 100 miles later same again ! Took the box out again today
but lots of gear oil came out when I removed the clutch slave cylinder and on close inspection the new gear box oil seal actually looks quite dry.
Could the oil be getting past the slave cylinder then running down the clutch push rod making the clutch slip ?
Any ideas out there ( it definately isn't brake fluid)

 

[hops]

The rubber bonding between the 2 sections of the driveshaft can fail and give similar symptoms. If you remove the starter motor you should see enough of the clutch to guage whether it's been contaminated. If it looks dry peel back the rubber gaiter on the final drive and look up the tunnel towards the gearbox. If the driveshaft has gone small pieces of rubber can be thrown out onto the inner walls of the tunnel.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Could the oil be getting past the slave cylinder then running down the clutch push rod making the clutch slip ?
Any ideas out there ( it definately isn't brake fluid)

Yes there is a tiny seal on the pushrod tube but there is also supposed to be a felt washer on the push rod itself to help stop this

Early ones didn't have the felt washer

If you are that far in are the rear crank seals weeping yet ?

Worth changing "IF" they are

There's a trick with a coke can so that you don;t tear the new ones

 

[Pete.]

I had this once, the cavity for the clutch slave had filled with oil it was the input seal leaking. I drilled the side of the cavity and fitted a stub with a tiny drain tube (after changing the seal) so if it happens again it doesn't wreck the plate.

 

[Steptoe]

Clutch started slipping last year shortly after I got it so decided to do something about it a few months ago . Bike is 2000 1150GS with 175,000 but hadn't been used for aprox 6/7 years before I got it.
Starter out and bell housing very wet on the gear box side so I reckoned it was the gearbox input seal. Replaced the seal and rebuilt it but 100 miles later same again ! Took the box out again today
but lots of gear oil came out when I removed the clutch slave cylinder and on close inspection the new gear box oil seal actually looks quite dry.
Could the oil be getting past the slave cylinder then running down the clutch push rod making the clutch slip ?
Any ideas out there ( it definately isn't brake fluid)

Yes, almost certainly the input shaft output end seal needs replacing. Tiny seal buried down in the recess where slave cylinder locates.

 

[theoneandonly]

whereas my "new to me " RT is pissing out clutch fluid from the back !

 

[Steptoe]

whereas my "new to me " RT is pissing out clutch fluid from the back !

Usual cause is one of the sealing washers on the banjo bolts on clutch lines at the slave cylinder has corroded or one the banjo bolts needs tightening … worse case is the metal section of the clutch line has corroded, the metal part under the rubber sleeve, designed to hold water and accelerate the process hence my advice on the forum going back years to cut off the rubber covering

 

[slaphead GSER]

Thanks for the replies .
The seal I can see looks a similar size to the front of the input shaft but is it possible to replace it without splitting the box as it does look a tad awkward ?

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks for the replies .
The seal I can see looks a similar size to the front of the input shaft but is it possible to replace it without splitting the box as it does look a tad awkward ?

The seal so much smaller, but yes, it’s easily removed without opening the gearbox, in fact it can be removed with the gearbox in situ .. use with a good right angled pick or a carefully used small flat bladed screwdriver. Be careful, I’ve seen some butchers jobs that have left the tunnel badly scored where the seal locates. .. use a long/deep socket to knock the new seal into place.

 

[mrtodd]

The seal so much smaller, but yes, it’s easily removed without opening the gearbox, in fact it can be removed with the gearbox in situ .. use with a good right angled pick or a carefully used small flat bladed screwdriver. Be careful, I’ve seen some butchers jobs that have left the tunnel badly scored where the seal locates. .. use a long/deep socket to knock the new seal into place.

Hi Steptoe,i have different conflicting advise about the depth this seal should be seated......either flush with the outer edge or knocked completely home. could you please tell me which/or what it is?