New clutch time - which one?

[rustychain]

As you may have seen, I was recently contemplating replacing the clutch plate on my R1150GS.

I got distracted by my failing final drive (which is all sorted now, thanks to Mikeyboy).

The clutch started slipping on the weekend so I'm looking for recommendations.

Is the MW clutch with the longer splines the one to get? Is it durable?

As suggested by others, I'll also replace my clutch slave cylinder while I'm in there.

Thanks

 

[DrFarkoff]

As you may have seen, I was recently contemplating replacing the clutch plate on my R1150GS.

I got distracted by my failing final drive (which is all sorted now, thanks to Mikeyboy).

The clutch started slipping on the weekend so I'm looking for recommendations.

Is the MW clutch with the longer splines the one to get? Is it durable?

As suggested by others, I'll also replace my clutch slave cylinder while I'm in there.

Thanks

How long is apiece of string ?

What state are your input shaft splines ?

Do you ride like a Lunatic and ride the clutch at junctions??

The longer splines are a good idea as there is quite a lot of load on a small area

IF the input shaft splines are worn? It would be proper to change the shaft for a good unworn one and the long spline plate

BUT if they are worn and you are at the end of the budget?

Bung a long spline one in there and it won;t fix it But will extend the life of what is there !

How many miles has it lasted now?

How many more miles / years do you intend to keep it ?

there will be some wailing and Gnashing of teeth at my very suggestion BUT in the real world

People have a finite budget and want to enjoy their motorcycle and that is a quick fix to allow you to do so (I suspect for a long time Unless you ride like a Looney? )

 

[rustychain]

The bike and I are approaching our first anniversary, so we're still in the honeymoon period. Unless I win the lottery I'd say she's a keeper.

I've already thrown hundreds at the final drive, so I'm committed to keeping her running. I don't have a lot of spare money, one of the reasons I got this bike is so I can do my own spannering.

She's on the verge of 60,000 miles. I've done nearly 7,000 miles this year and intend to match or improve on that figure in years to come.

I like to make progress and think I'm relatively kind to the bike - I aim for smooth gear changes and all that zen kind of stuff.

I haven't stripped it yet (give me chance! ). I am pooping myself at the prospect of a shagged input spline. If that's what I find then I'll have to find the money to get her fixed.

Assuming she's in a fit state, is the Motorworks long spline clutch the one to go for?

Be good to hear some real world user views.

 

[DrFarkoff]

AH Lightbulb Moment

Only started slipping ??

Only slips in a gear when you give it the berries from lower rpm?

Go and look at the left hand handguard

The clutch lever should follow the groove of the Handguard

If it is caught out of the groove it will not fully release the clutch and you will get slippage!

 

[rustychain]

I recently took the handguards off when I replaced the throttle cables.

I've been to check - handguards are in the correct position...

Thanks for the suggestion, something to watch for in the future.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Disconnect the negative and pull the starter out and have a quick shufty for oil ??

That may give you a heads up as to if it is just a clutch or an oiled clutch needing seals

 

[rustychain]

I pulled the bike apart yesterday evening. Clutch fluid and oily gunge all over the clutch plate. The slave cylinder is clearly the culprit.

A shame as the clutch is still ~6mm thick after 60,000 miles which isn't bad (that's assuming it's the original one).

Thankfully the splines are in tip top condition so no gearbox rebuild needed.

 

[Steptoe]

Are you sure it’s clutch fluid and not gearbox oil from a leaking seal on the input shaft/output end.. the small seal that sits down in the tunnel at the back of the gearbox where the slave cylinder located, and can be a bastard to get out

 

[rustychain]

Are you sure it’s clutch fluid and not gearbox oil from a leaking seal on the input shaft/output end.. the small seal that sits down in the tunnel at the back of the gearbox where the slave cylinder located, and can be a bastard to get out

No, I'm not sure to be honest! The clutch push rod was covered in fluid which I presumed was clutch fluid. I'll have a proper look tomorrow.

 

[rustychain]

Are you sure it’s clutch fluid and not gearbox oil from a leaking seal on the input shaft/output end.. the small seal that sits down in the tunnel at the back of the gearbox where the slave cylinder located, and can be a bastard to get out

You were right Steptoe - that seal looks like it has failed. There was a load of oil in the recess when I removed the slave cylinder that smelt of gearbox oil.

The slave cylinder looks in OK condition but hard to tell with all that oil slopping about. I think it's the original as it's a Magura. I'm going to fit a new one anyway.

Any tips on how to get it out - a couple of self taping screws and pliers to tease it out?

 

[Steptoe]

You were right Steptoe - that seal looks like it has failed. There was a load of oil in the recess when I removed the slave cylinder that smelt of gearbox oil.

The slave cylinder looks in OK condition but hard to tell with all that oil slopping about. I think it's the original as it's a Magura. I'm going to fit a new one anyway.

Any tips on how to get it out - a couple of self taping screws and pliers to tease it out?

View attachment 309035

I have two small right angled picks made of very strong metal. I carefully insert both down the inner part of the seal opposite each other , turn 90 degrees and work around the seal, then pull it out. Other removal methods are available.

 

[rustychain]

I went for the other methods approach in the end. It was messy but it did the job and I didn't damage anything in the process.

Is fitting the new seal straightforward? Does it have an inward lip like the crankcase seal?

Thanks

 

[rustychain]

By way of an update, new clutch friction plate, slave cylinder and clutch hose have been fitted.

The bike started afterwards which is always a bonus.

The test ride went well - the new clutch felt good (once I got used to the new bite point). I hadn't seated the gear position indicator properly (popped off).

For info, I got the clutch plate from Motobins. The clutch plate is made for them by Newfren (Italian) and has extended splines (part number 30745SP). They're currently £66 which is a decent price for a branded product. Seems good quality, but time will tell.

The most difficult/frustrating part was to get the new felt strip to stay on the clutch push rod during installation.

There's only one bolt left over which hopefully isn't safety critical!

 

[DrFarkoff]

By way of an update, new clutch friction plate, slave cylinder and clutch hose have been fitted.

The bike started afterwards which is always a bonus.

The test ride went well - the new clutch felt good (once I got used to the new bite point). I hadn't seated the gear position indicator properly (popped off).

For info, I got the clutch plate from Motobins. The clutch plate is made for them by Newfren (Italian) and has extended splines (part number 30745SP). They're currently £66 which is a decent price for a branded product. Seems good quality, but time will tell.

The most difficult/frustrating part was to get the new felt strip to stay on the clutch push rod during installation.

There's only one bolt left over which hopefully isn't safety critical!

What size in the bolt?

And did you manage to get the GPI back in without stripping anything yet?

String around the two bits of the Circlip and only unwind it when you are sure it is seated

I have a long handed pair of crank nose pliers that I can get in to do that bit with the switch in place Did you coat the front of teh switch and the gearbox side of the switch body with some waxoyl or rubber grease (Stops water ingress and makes fitment easier)

 

[rustychain]

What size in the bolt?

And did you manage to get the GPI back in without stripping anything yet?

String around the two bits of the Circlip and only unwind it when you are sure it is seated

I have a long handed pair of crank nose pliers that I can get in to do that bit with the switch in place Did you coat the front of teh switch and the gearbox side of the switch body with some waxoyl or rubber grease (Stops water ingress and makes fitment easier)

M8, flared and ribs on the face. See photos. Was sat with the starter motor but no guarantee it came off around the same time!

GPI back in using a cable tie on the pins (tip from somewhere on here). Worked a treat. Didn't think to lubricate the back, next job...

 

[DrFarkoff]

M8, flared and ribs on the face. See photos. Was sat with the starter motor but no guarantee it came off around the same time!

GPI back in using a cable tie on the pins (tip from somewhere on here). Worked a treat. Didn't think to lubricate the back, next job...

Possibly the nut for the main positive cable to the top starter stud

Good job on refitting the GPI

 

[rustychain]

Possibly the nut for the main positive cable to the top starter stud

Good job on refitting the GPI

After a bit of detective work (using the exploded parts diagrams), I've established it's from the nut and bolt that holds the fuel tank in place - I dropped it into the interior of the bike many months ago!

 

[DrFarkoff]

Well that was a good recovery then

You just need to be a bit faster finding it PMSL

You hadn't mentioned you dropped that one