Servo ABS removal.

Has anyone used the Motor Works ABS removal kit and how easy was it to do? Any pitfalls that I need to look out for. Seriously looking at doing this to my 2005 GS as it now has total servo abs and brake failure and the brake light now stays on permanently.
I had the same problem with my R1200GS (2006). I used Motorworks ABS removal replacement unit (cost £170) that is basically a pressed aluminium plate with 2 pipework loops incorporated that you can re-fit your original pipework to. It is a great idea and worked and fitted very well. The only thing i would advise on is to bleed it backwards after the pipework is buttoned up, ie fill a large syringe with clean (new) brake fluid and connect it to the open bleed nipples on the calipers one at a time and push the fluid and any air backwards up towards the master cylinder. (Do rear brake in same fashion).It took me 10 mins to bleed but think you might struggle if you try to bleed it the conventional way as i think the air will get trapped in the loops on the new unit. I did that job earlier this year (2023) and the bike sailed past the MOT and the brakes are phenominal now, i've fallen in love with the bike now that the nasty red flashing warning lights are not in my face now. I forgot to mention i removed the speedo unit, opened it up and taped up the BRAKE FAILURE warning light as well (very easy to do).
 
I had the same problem with my R1200GS (2006). I used Motorworks ABS removal replacement unit (cost £170) that is basically a pressed aluminium plate with 2 pipework loops incorporated that you can re-fit your original pipework to. It is a great idea and worked and fitted very well. The only thing i would advise on is to bleed it backwards after the pipework is buttoned up, ie fill a large syringe with clean (new) brake fluid and connect it to the open bleed nipples on the calipers one at a time and push the fluid and any air backwards up towards the master cylinder. (Do rear brake in same fashion).It took me 10 mins to bleed but think you might struggle if you try to bleed it the conventional way as i think the air will get trapped in the loops on the new unit. I did that job earlier this year (2023) and the bike sailed past the MOT and the brakes are phenominal now, i've fallen in love with the bike now that the nasty red flashing warning lights are not in my face now. I forgot to mention i removed the speedo unit, opened it up and taped up the BRAKE FAILURE warning light as well (very easy to do).
Makes my charge of £200/£250 all parts and labour to do the job seem cheap 😄
 
I had the same problem with my R1200GS (2006). I used Motorworks ABS removal replacement unit (cost £170) that is basically a pressed aluminium plate with 2 pipework loops incorporated that you can re-fit your original pipework to. It is a great idea and worked and fitted very well. The only thing i would advise on is to bleed it backwards after the pipework is buttoned up, ie fill a large syringe with clean (new) brake fluid and connect it to the open bleed nipples on the calipers one at a time and push the fluid and any air backwards up towards the master cylinder. (Do rear brake in same fashion).It took me 10 mins to bleed but think you might struggle if you try to bleed it the conventional way as i think the air will get trapped in the loops on the new unit. I did that job earlier this year (2023) and the bike sailed past the MOT and the brakes are phenominal now, i've fallen in love with the bike now that the nasty red flashing warning lights are not in my face now. I forgot to mention i removed the speedo unit, opened it up and taped up the BRAKE FAILURE warning light as well (very easy to do).
Bleeding was easy. Back brake took 5 mins. Front took longer as i could not seem to get some trapped air out. Did it the easy way, strap front brake lever back and leave over night. I actually left it 3 days as I didn't need the bike. Front brakes then were rock hard as they should be. Total cost was about £100 including fluid, and all parts and about 4 hours labour off and on.
 
Steptoe was referring to the Motorworks cost of £170 which I think is wrong????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Steptoe was referring to the Motorworks cost of £170 which I think is wrong????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Motorworks manifold that goes in place of the ABS unit so that you do not have to change any pipework is £174. You don't need the manifold if you use a splitter pipe at the front and the BMW non abs pipework for the rear brake. Going to get a new front brake line made to get rid of the splitter at the front.
 
I have just managed to remove the abs unit and have the Motorworks bit of kit to replace it with. I don’t seem to have the tool to remove the electrical box from the end. Can any of you amazing guys point me in the right direction please?
 
I have just managed to remove the abs unit and have the Motorworks bit of kit to replace it with. I don’t seem to have the tool to remove the electrical box from the end. Can any of you amazing guys point me in the right direction please?
There are two different types of bolt/screw depending on year of bike … one is a security torq bit, available at halfords or any decent car spares shop. - the other is an odd type of security bolt, I just hit an appropriate sized torq but into it and undo it. Not very subtle, but effective
 
There are two different types of bolt/screw depending on year of bike … one is a security torq bit, available at halfords or any decent car spares shop. - the other is an odd type of security bolt, I just hit an appropriate sized torq but into it and undo it. Not very subtle, but effective
So mine is a 2006 my, not sure if that makes it any easier to diagnose. I have tried the torx bits I have but the stud appears to be a different size which is a pin in the arse!
I’ll see if I can build up the bottle to get a hammer out to it and see 😬.
 


Back
Top Bottom