R1100rt Clutch change

Mark H · Mar 19, 2011

I'm about to lift the rear frame to get access to the box for a clutch change, but it wont move much, I have found two bolts under the ABS that need to be removed, any tips on how to remove abs without disturbing it to much so no bleeding reqd???
All help much appreciated :thumb2

dancata · Mar 19, 2011

There are 4 bolts, 2 need to be removed and the other front ones need to be loosened

And you did remove everything else, right?

Dan.

Steptoe · Mar 19, 2011

No bolts need to be removed from the abs unit to lift the rear subframe. And the abs unit doen't need to be removed or any brake lines need be dismantled or undone.

Two bolts under the battery.
One allen bolt each side at the front of the subframe.
The bolts that hold the subframe to the gearbox.
The three small bolts that hold the airbox.
The crank breather hose attached to the airbox.
Loosen ( do not remove) the two 16mm nuts that hold the front engine mounting/subframe stud.
The top shock absorber bolt.

Then pivot the rear subframe up on the long stud that runs through the engine block/subframe, ,

Steptoe · Mar 19, 2011

And looking again at your picture, you need to remove the fuel hose attached to the throttle bodies (throttle bodies can stay fitted to the head).
The fuel pressure regulator and rigid fuel hoses all stay attached to the airbox when you remove it.

Mark H · Mar 19, 2011

Thanks Steptoe, all done, box, paralever,F/Drive out in one bit tommorrow and see whats needed, fair bit of oil around clutch arm bellows so may need a seal there, not alot of meat on the clutch about 4.5mm roughly
Thanks again for your help everbody , Time for a beer :beerjug:

Myke Rocks · Mar 19, 2011

Just as easy as stated.

Exactly as St. Eptoe described.
Nobody gave you a time scale.
For entire clutch change allow 24 man hours.
If you need clutch pushrod seal, allow another 6 man hours to strip & rebuild gearbox.
If you have an oven, put gearbox in it & heat to 100c for 30 mins. It makes dismantling & reassembly easy.
To fit this seal means stripping the gearbox to last component.
I did it 4 years ago on my last bike, and with a properly equipped workshop & no mistakes, that was the timeframe.
St. Eptoe may wish to verify this.

Myke

Vern · Mar 19, 2011

24 hours to do a clutch!

18 hours drinking tea.6 hours work

Myke Rocks · Mar 19, 2011

Vern said:
24 hours to do a clutch!

18 hours drinking tea.6 hours work

Have you done an 1100RT?
Just think of the tuperware alone!
If you considered an official dealer, it is cheaper to scrap the bike.

Myke

Vern · Mar 19, 2011

Yep, done an RT about six weeks ago.In at 11am out the door at 6pm.Takes about an hour longer than the GS

ducatiparts.110mb · Mar 20, 2011

To fit this seal means stripping the gearbox to last component.

Given the hassle factor try all you can first - I've never done a clutch pushrod seal, but have changed the output shaft and gear indicator shaft seals on my GS without stripping the box. A long sharp screwdriver and a bit of determination will get them out.

Mark H · Mar 20, 2011

Day 2

Plan to get the trans, para, and F/d off today, inspect clutch and if oil present from pushrod I will seperate box and take it over to Steve Scrimmenger the box guru for strip and rebuild, the box is a bit whiney in 2nd/3rd but no debries in the oil, but a strip / inspect plus seals if needed could be worth it (£150 strip & check) plus parts. I dont want to be doing this again for another 10 years

Myke Rocks · Mar 20, 2011

ducatiparts.110mb said:
Given the hassle factor try all you can first - I've never done a clutch pushrod seal, but have changed the output shaft and gear indicator shaft seals on my GS without stripping the box. A long sharp screwdriver and a bit of determination will get them out.

All of the gearbox seals except the clutch pushrod seal may be changed from the outside. Unfortuantely, BMW, in their wisdom, inserted the clutch pushrod seal from the inside up against a case land. They then pressed in a bearing from the inside to keep it in place.
When I saw how my (leaking) one was installed, I said "Fish" and "Sugar" And "Dish"!

Myke

Mark H · Mar 20, 2011

Thanks for all the replies, can I ask for opinions on this;

The pushrod is wet with oil, should it be dry?

The clutch looks worn and a bit slimey but not a lot of oil present

Cant see any oil from rear engine oil seal

Going to order up a complete clutch, Optioin is to send box of to Scriminger for check

Myke Rocks · Mar 20, 2011

Since you have the gearbag out

Remove the clutch release arm, and the bit it bears onto. You will now be able to see the seal. If the gap between the release mechanism & the seal is swamped with oil, I do not need to tell you any more. If it is reasonably dry, You are in luck.
Generally, when the release pushrod seal fails, the oil leaking makes it's way down the pushhrod tunnel & on to the clutch.

Myke

Mark H · Mar 20, 2011

Myke Rocks said:
Remove the clutch release arm, and the bit it bears onto. You will now be able to see the seal. If the gap between the release mechanism & the seal is swamped with oil, I do not need to tell you any more. If it is reasonably dry, You are in luck.
Generally, when the release pushrod seal fails, the oil leaking makes it's way down the pushhrod tunnel & on to the clutch.

Myke

It is swamped with oil :blast

Mark H · Mar 20, 2011

It's swamped with oil :blast

Myke Rocks · Mar 20, 2011

Where do you go from here:

Easyrider5258 said:
It's swamped with oil

Order seal(s) & get in. Do not dismantle gearbox before receiving.

Drain gearbox overnight.
Remove bolts round gearbox to enable dismantling.
Place in oven at 100c for 30 mins.
Take out of oven.
Place gearbox bellhousing down on work surface.
Using oven gloves, lift off tail housing of gearbox, making certain that shims stay on top of exposed bearings.

If you do it cold, you have to batter the tail housing off the gearbox, & the shims go everywhere.

Let gearbox cool, & use commonsense after this. Do the whole job in one attack. that way you do not lose or mix up anything.

Reheat entire gearbox & tail housing before reassembly.

Easy, but time consuming.

Myke

DrFarkoff · Mar 20, 2011

There should be a felt seal halfway (ish) along your pushrod

Yours may be the last of the non seal type...........

Mark H · Mar 20, 2011

Easyrider5258 said:
Day 2

Plan to get the trans, para, and F/d off today, inspect clutch and if oil present from pushrod I will seperate box and take it over to Steve Scrimmenger the box guru for strip and rebuild, the box is a bit whiney in 2nd/3rd but no debries in the oil, but a strip / inspect plus seals if needed could be worth it (£150 strip & check) plus parts. I dont want to be doing this again for another 10 years

Hi Mike / Jaythro Appreciate your replies, but as I said earlier in the thread if the gearbox needs work I’m giving it to Scrimenger engineering to sort, the box is a bit noisy in 2nd / 3rd and this guy's a bit of a guru with bm boxes

Myke Rocks · Mar 20, 2011

You could not afford to do it yourself at that price!

Easyrider5258 said:
Hi Mike / Jaythro Appreciate your replies, but as I said earlier in the thread if the gearbox needs work I’m giving it to Scrimenger engineering to sort, the box is a bit noisy in 2nd / 3rd and this guy's a bit of a guru with bm boxes

He's not dear!

Myke

R1100rt Clutch change

Formerly known as Easyrider5258 (Mark)

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What a waste.

What a waste.

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Toy maker

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Toy maker

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Grumpy Ole Git!!!

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